Blog Buggy Part 4

(ANNOUNCER)>> AFTER ALL THE COOL PARTS YOU PICKED FOR THE BLOG BUGGY, THERE'S NO WE'RE GONNA JUST DROP IN A STOCK ENGINE. TODAY ON XTREME 4X4 WE TEAR DOWN THE TOP END AND REBUILD OUR VEIGHT FOR MORE POWER!

(IAN)>> TODAY ON XTREME WE'RE GONNA DO A LITTLE BIT OF MOTOR WORK. NOW FOR THOSE OF YOU WITH A KEEN EYE, I'M SURE YOU RECOGNIZE THIS AS THE ENGINE THAT WE ORIGINALLY PICKED UP AT A JUNKYARD FOR OUR BLOG BUGGY PROJECT. THIS IS A GM FIVE POINT THREE LITER. KIND OF LIKE AN LS ENGINE WITH A CAST IRON BLOCK. THE NICE THING IS YOU CAN PICK UP ONE OF THESE INCREDIBLY CHEAP. ONE LIKE THIS FROM A GOOD JUNKYARD WILL COST YOU AROUND $750 BUCKS, AND IT HAS EVERYTHING YOU NEED TO DROP IT INTO YOUR PROJECT, WHETHER IT'S A TUBE BUGGY OR MAYBE EVEN A JEEP. NOW TODAY WE'RE GONNA TEAR THIS ENGINE COMPLETELY DOWN, REBUILD IT, AND SHOW YOU A COUPLE TIPS AND TRICKS TO GET A LITTLE BIT MORE POWER OUT OF ONE OF THESE AND WHAT YOU NEED TO DO WHEN YOU'RE GONNA SWAP IT INTO YOUR PROJECT. BUT BEFORE WE START TEARING THIS APART, LETS TAKE A LOOK BACK AND FIGURE OUT WHERE THE BLOG BUGGY ALL STARTED. WE PUT A POLL UP ON OUR WEBSITE WITH EVERY CONCEIVABLE OPTION WHEN IT CAME TO A HARDCORE BUGGY BUILD. WE LET YOU GUYS PICK EVERY SINGLE ONE. YOU CHOSE A FIVE POINT THREE LITER ENGINE AND TURBO 400 TRANSMISSION, FOUR SPEED ATLAS TRANSFER CASE, 14 BOLT REAR, AND A DANA 60 UP FRONT, ALL ROLLING ON 42 INCH TALL TIRES MOUNTED TO A SET OF CUSTOM BEAD LOCKS. ALL IN ALL YOU BUILT A GREAT CRAWLER.

OUR ENGINE IS A GM LMSEVEN ENGINE. IT CAME OUT OF A 1999 AND NEWER HALF TON TRUCKS. EVERYTHING ABOUT IT IS THE SAME AS AN LS ONE YOU'D FIND IN A SPORTS CAR EXCEPT THE BLOCK IS MADE OUT OF CAST IRON.

MOST OF THE TIME WHEN GUYS ARE BUILDING PERFORMANCE VERSIONS OF THE GEN THREE, GEN FOUR ENGINE FAMILY, THEY'RE LOOKING FOR EITHER THE ALL ALUMINUM LS ONE OR THE VORTEC SIX LITER, NOT SO MUCH THE FIVE POINT THREE LIKE WE HAVE HERE. BUT BANG FOR THE BUCK IT IS A GREAT OPTION. JUST BY MAKING A FEW CHANGES YOU CAN PULL A LOT OF POWER OUT OF THAT LITTLE ENGINE. WE'RE GONNA START BY SWAPPING IN A NEW CAM SHAFT WITH NEW VALVE SPRINGS AND RETAINERS. NOW THIS IS A COMP CAMS THUMPER SERIES CAM. IT HAS A 283 DEGREE LOBE FOR THE INTAKE AND A 303 FOR THE EXHAUST. AND THE NICE THING IS IS THAT'S ALL THAT WE'RE GONNA HAVE TO CHANGE. THE HEADS THEMSELVES ARE GREAT RIGHT FROM THE FACTORY. THEY'RE ALL ALUMINUM AND LOTS OF PEOPLE HAVE PORTED AND CNC'ED THESE TO GET EXTRA POWER, BUT THEY'VE ONLY PICKED UP MAYBE FIVE OR 10 EXTRA HORSEPOWER AT THE FLYWHEEL. THAT'S NOT GONNA MAKE A BIG DIFFERENCE IN A CRAWLER. BUT THE CAM SHAFT IS WHERE ALL THE POWER'S GONNA BE MADE. BELIEVE IT OR NOT, THERE'S BEEN A BUNCH OF DIFFERENT ENGINE BUILDS DOCUMENTED WITH THIS CAM SHAFT ALONE, PICKED UP OVER 100 HORSEPOWER AT THE FLYWHEEL. HOW'D THEY DO IT? WELL YOU'VE GOT TO KNOW HOW A CAM SHAFT WORKS. AFTERMARKET CAM SHAFT MANUFACTURERS INCREASE THE POWER OUTPUT OF AN ENGINE BY CHANGING TWO KEY ITEMS, THE LENGTH OF TIME THE VALVES REMAIN OPEN AND HOW FAR THOSE VALVES ARE OPENED INTO THE CYLINDER. THEY INCREASE THE DISTANCE THE VALVE TRAVELS BY CHANGING WHAT'S CALLED VALVE LIFT, PHYSICALLY MAKING THE LOBE ON THE CAM SHAFT LARGER. THAT PUSHES THE LIFTER FURTHER UP IN THE BORE, MOVES THE PUSH ROD, WHICH IN TURN OBVIOUSLY OPENS THE VALVE FURTHER INTO THE CYLINDER TO ALLOW MORE FUEL AND AIR IN TO GET BURNED. THERE IS OBVIOUSLY A LIMIT TO ALL OF THIS. EVENTUALLY YOU'LL HAVE WHAT'S CALLED COIL BIND AT THE VALVE SPRING. OR WORST CASE SCENARIO, WITH THAT VALVE SO FAR INTO THE CYLINDER IT CAN CONTACT THE TOP OF THE PISTON. BUT WHEN YOU'RE DEALING WITH A MILD CAM SHAFT LIKE WE ARE HERE, IT'S NOT REALLY GONNA BE AN ISSUE. NOW THE LENGTH OF TIME THE VALVES ARE OPEN IS WHAT'S CALLED DURATION. NOW AS THE CAM SHAFT TURNS 360 DEGREES, THERE ARE FOUR KEY ITEMS IN THE COMBUSTION CYCLE. THERE'S AN INTAKE, COMPRESSION, POWER, AND EXHAUST STROKE, AND THE VALVES OPEN AND CLOSE DURING THE INTAKE AND THE EXHAUST. BUT BY CHANGING WHEN THEY OPEN AND CLOSE, YOU CAN BUILD MORE POWER. YOU CAN TAKE THAT INTAKE STOKE, STRETCH IT JUST A TINY LITTLE BIT, AND PUT IT INTO THE COMPRESSION STROKE GIVING A LITTLE BIT MORE FUEL AND AIR. OPEN THE EXHAUST VALVE MAYBE JUST A LITTLE BIT EARLIER TO HELP GET THAT BURNED FUEL AND AIR OUT. BUT THE BIG DIFFERENCE HAPPENS WHERE THEY MEET. IF YOU CHANGE WHEN THE EXHAUST AND INTAKE OVERLAP EACH OTHER, YOU'RE BASICALLY CHANGING THE AMOUNT OF POWER THE ENGINE CAN MAKE. OPEN THE INTAKE VALVE JUST A LITTLE BIT SOONER WHILE THE EXHAUST VALVE IS STILL OPEN, AND YOU CREATE WHAT'S CALLED SCAVENGING. AS THE EXHAUST GAS IS LEAVING THE CYLINDER, IT'LL HELP DRAW IN MORE FUEL AND AIR DURING THE INTAKE STROKE. OBVIOUSLY MORE FUEL AND AIR MEANS MORE POWER. NOW CAM MANUFACTURERS SPEND A LOT OF TIME, A LOT OF DIFFERENT CAM GRINDS TO GET THE PERFECT BALANCE OF LIFT AND DURATION. AND WHEN THEY HIT THE NAIL ON THE HEAD, YOU CAN BUILD SOME MONSTER POWER. AFTER COATING THE CAM LOBES AND BEARING SURFACES WITH SOME ROYAL PURPLE MAX TUFF ASSEMBLY LUBE, THE CAM SHAFT SLID INTO THE BLOCK.

(ANNOUNCER)>> UP NEXT, THE HUNT FOR HORSEPOWER CONTINUES WITH UPGRADED SPRINGS, MODERN ELECTRONICS, AND YOU GUESSED IT, TURBO CHARGING!

(IAN)>> WITH THE CAM SHAFT IN THIS SHORT BLOCK, IT'S TIME TO PUT THE CYLINDER HEADS BACK ON. I WENT AHEAD AND CLEANED THEM ALL UP, AND NOW I'M SWAPPING IN THE NEW VALVE SPRINGS. NOW THE BIGGEST DIFFERENCE BETWEEN THE NEW VALVE SPRINGS IS HE HEIGHT OF THE SPRING. IT'S A TALLER SPRING. THAT'LL GIVE US MORE SEAT PRESSURE ON THE VALVE, ALLOW US TO REV THE ENGINE UP A LITTLE BIT FURTHER IN THE RPM BAND. BUT MORE IMPORTANTLY, THEY'LL COME INTO PLAY WHEN WE PUT THE FUEL SYSTEM ON THIS MOTOR. WE'VE GOT SOMETHING SPECIAL PLANNED.

NOW BEFORE I DROP THE HEADS ONTO THE BLOCK, THERE'S A COUPLE OF THINGS THAT I WANT TO SHOW YOU. I WENT AHEAD AND FINISHED UP THE CAM INSTALLATION BY REUSING THE FACTORY GEAR AND CHAIN. TIMED IT BY LINING UP THE DOT ON THE CRANK GEAR WITH THE DOT ON THE CAM GEAR. THAT GIVES US BASICALLY ZERO, OR BASE VALVE TIMING. NOW IF WE WANTED TO HUNT DOWN A LITTLE BIT EXTRA HORSEPOWER IF WERE BUILDING A PERFORMANCE ENGINE, WE COULD DEGREE THAT CAM INTO PLACE MAKING SURE IT OPENS AT PRECISELY THE RIGHT TIME. BUT IN ORDER TO DO, YOU NEED AN ADJUSTABLE CAM GEAR AND SOME SPECIAL TOOLS. FOR THIS APPLICATION THE STOCK SETUP'S GONNA WORK JUST FINE. DROP THE LIFTERS INTO THE BLOCK AND SECURE THEM IN PLACE WITH THE PLASTIC LIFTER LOCKS. WHEN A LIFTER RAVELS UP AND DOWN THE BORE, IT WANTS TO TURN AS IT TRAVELS. THE LIFTER LOCK KEEPS THAT FROM HAPPENING. AND BECAUSE IT'S A ROLLER LIFTER, YOU WANT IT TO RUN PERFECTLY STRAIGHT. ALSO BECAUSE OF THE ROLLER LIFTER WE DIDN'T HAVE TO REPLACE THE LIFTERS. JUST WENT WITH THE STOCK SETUP FOR THIS PARTICULAR ENGINE. CLEANED THE BLOCK UP AND GOT A COMPLETE GASKET SET FROM SUMMIT RACING. NOW MOST OF THE LS GASKETS ARE THIS RUBBER STYLE GASKET THAT LOOKS LIKE AN ORING. AND EVEN THOUGH YOU MIGHT THINK THAT YOU REUSE THEM, YOU CAN'T. YOU SHOULD REPLACE THEM. THE HEAD GASKETS, WE WENT WITH SOMETHING A LITTLE MORE SPECIALIZED. THIS IS A COMEDIC MULTI LAYERED STEEL HEAD GASKET. AS YOU CAN SEE IT'S GOT TWO CRUSHED LAYERS OF STEEL AND A SHIM THICKNESS IN BETWEEN. THE REASON FOR THE ALL STEEL HEAD GASKET IS IT CAN HANDLE MORE PRESSURE IN THE CYLINDER WITHOUT THE RISK OF FRACTURING OUT. WE'RE GONNA GIVE OURSELVES A LITTLE EXTRA INSURANCE ON THIS BY INSTALLING A SET OF HEAD STUDS. ANY OF THE HEAD STUDS THAT GO INTO A WATER JACKET WILL NEED TO HAVE A COATING OF LOCTITE THREAD SEALANT. THEN THEY'RE INSTALLED INTO THE BLOCK FINGER TIGHT. BOTH THE MATING SURFACE AND THE WASHER, AS WELL AS THE STUD, NEED TO BE COATED WITH ARP THREAD LUBRICANT TO INSURE A PROPER TORQUE. THEN THE ENTIRE HEAD IS TORQUED DOWN TO 80 FOOT POUNDS WORKING IN 20 POUND INCREMENTS.

NOW SOME PEOPLE DON'T LIKE TO PAINT THE TOP END OF A MOTOR WHEN IT HAS ALUMINUM HEADS, BUT I THINK IT KINDA TIES THE WHOLE THING TOGETHER AND KEEPS IT LOOKING REALLY CLEAN. NOW THIS GREY IS NOT THE FINAL COLOR FOR THIS ENGINE. WE'RE GONNA SPRAY THE WHOLE THING WITH SOME DUPLICOLOR DAYTONA YELLOW ENGINE ENAMEL. THAT MAY SEEM LIKE A PRETTY BRIGHT COLOR FOR A POWER PLANT BUT YOU'VE GOTTA REMEMBER, WE'RE BUILDING THIS BUGGY FOR THE GUYS OVER AT ROYAL PURPLE. THE CHASSIS' OUT GETTING PURPLE POWDER COAT, THE ENGINE'S GOT TO BE YELLOW TO MATCH THE CAB.

(IAN)>> TO REALLY FINISH OFF THE TOP END OF THIS MOTOR, I SWAPPED ON THESE ALL ALUMINUM VALVE COVERS THAT WE GOT FROM SUMMIT RACING. NOW WE OPTED FOR THE FABRICATED STYLE WITH NO PROVISIONS TO MOUNT THE COIL PACKS TO THE TOP OF THEM. WE'RE SIMPLY GONNA MOUNT THEM SOMEWHERE ELSE IN THE BUGGY AND RUN ALL NEW SPARK PLUG WIRES. NOW I'M SURE YOU GUYS ARE WONDERING, WHY DID WE GO AHEAD AND INSTALL ALL STEEL HEAD GASKETS AND HEAD STUDS IF THE ONLY POWER UPGRADE WE DID WAS A CAM SHAFT? WELL WE'VE GOT ONE MORE POWER ADDER PLANNED. IT'S RIGHT OVER HERE. ONE OF THE EASIEST WAYS TO BUILD POWER IN AN ENGINE IS TO USE WHAT'S CALLED FORCED INDUCTION. NOW THERE'S TWO DIFFERENT TYPES. THERE'S SUPER CHARGERS AND THERE'S TURBO CHARGERS. NOW A SUPER CHARGER IS DRIVEN BY A BELT OFF THE ENGINE'S CRANK SHAFT AND IT'S KINDA TRICKY BECAUSE YOU'RE ACTUALLY USING THE POWER OF THE ENGINE TO TURN THE SUPER CHARGER TO BUILD BOOST AND MAKE POWER. BUT A TURBO CHARGER IS COMPLETELY DIFFERENT. IT'S KINDA LIKE FREE POWER. YOU TAKE THE EXHAUST THAT'S LEAVING THE ENGINE AND FEED IT INTO THE BOTTOM OF THE TURBO. BEFORE IT HEADS BACK TO THE REST OF THE EXHAUST, IT'S FIRST GONNA SPIN A SET OF IMPELLER BLADES. NOW THOSE IMPELLER BLADES ARE ATTACHED BY A SHAFT TO ANOTHER SET OF IMPELLER BLADES ON THE INLET SIDE OF THE TURBO. AS YOU REV THE ENGINE UP, THE TURBO SPINS, DRAWS AIR IN, AND THE COMPRESSES IT INSIDE THE SNAIL AND SENDS IT DOWN TO THE INTAKE. NOW THAT COMPRESSED AIR IS HOW WE MAKE POWER. BY COMPRESSING THE AIR WE'RE GONNA BE ABLE TO FIT MORE OXYGEN MOLECULES INSIDE THE CYLINDER. MORE OXYGEN MEANS WE CAN ADD MORE FUEL, AND THAT IS WHERE THE EXTRA POWER COMES FROM. BUT YOU CAN'T JUST SLAP A TURBO CHARGER ON YOUR ENGINE AND EXPECT IT TO WORK. YOU NEED TO CONTROL IT OR REGULATE IT, AND IT STARTS WITH ONE OF THESE. THIS IS A WASTE GATE. IT'S GONNA GO IN THE PIPE THAT TRAVELS UP AND FEEDS THE TURBO. IT'S GONNA HAVE A HOSE THAT EFFECTS THE TOP SIDE OF THE WASTE GATE WHERE INSIDE YOU FIND A SPRING. AS YOU BUILD BOOST IN THE MOTOR, IT WILL COMPRESS THAT SPRING. NOW WHEN YOU REACH A SPECIFIC AMOUNT OF BOOST, AND IN OUR CASE THAT'S GONNA BE RIGHT AROUND 10 POUNDS, THE WASTE GATE WILL ACTUALLY OPEN UP. IT ALLOWS THE EXHAUST TO SKIP PAST THE TURBO AND JUST TRAVEL DOWN TO THE MUFFLER, THEREFORE ALLOWING YOU TO BUILD GOOD, SAFE BOOST NUMBERS INSIDE THE ENGINE. NOW ON A ROCK CRAWLER YOU NEED TO ADD ONE OTHER ITEM AND THAT IS THIS RIGHT HERE. THIS IS A BLOW OFF VALVE. IT WILL MOUNT IN THE INTAKE TUBE THAT TRAVELS FROM THE TURBO DOWN TO THE ENGINE, AND YOU NEED THIS BECAUSE OF HOW WE DRIVE A ROCK CRAWLER IN THE DIRT. WHEN YOU TAKE A ROCK CRAWLER WITH A TURBO CHARGER, YOU GET IT TO A LEDGE, YOU'RE GONNA REV IT UP TO BUILD POWER, BUILD A BUNCH OF BOOST, POP UP OVER THE LEDGE, AND AS SOON AS YOU'RE OVER IT YOU'RE GONNA LET OFF THE GAS SLAMMING THE THROTTLE SHUT. THAT'S GONNA BUILD A BUNCH OF BOOST PRESSURE INSIDE THAT INTAKE TUBE. THE BLOW OFF VALVE, THAT WILL ALLOW THAT INTAKE AIR TO ESCAPE. IT SIMPLY HAS A SMALL SPRING AND ALLOWS THAT AIR TO PUSH IT OPEN INSTEAD OF BUILDING A BUNCH OF BOOST INSIDE THE INTAKE, POSSIBLY DAMAGING THE TUBE OR MORE IMPORTANTLY DAMAGING THE THROTTLE BODY. NOW THIS IS OBVIOUSLY A 100 PERCENT CUSTOM SETUP. SO IT'S GONNA START AT THE ENGINE WITH A SET OF CUSTOM MADE HEADERS.

TO MOUNT OUR TURBO CHARGER, WE'LL BUILD A CUSTOM BRACKET AND USE THE FLANGE THAT CAME WITH OUR KIT.

THE TURBO ITSELF IS A TURBONETICS 72 MILLIMETER UNIT CAPABLE OF BUILDING MONSTER POWER IN OUR ENGINE. BUILDING A SET OF CUSTOM HEADERS IS A VERY TEDIOUS JOB. JUST TAKE YOUR TIME CUTTING UP ALL THE ELBOWS AND PIECING THEM TOGETHER. DO YOUR BEST TO MAKE EACH HEADER TUBE AN EQUAL LENGTH. WITH THE FACTORY INTAKE IN PLACE, BUILDING THE BOOST TUBE IS QUITE EASY THANKS TO SOME TWO AND A HALF INCH EXHAUST PIPE.

(IAN)>> AT THIS POINT IN THE ENGINE BUILD, THE EXHAUST AND THE BOOST TUBES ARE SIMPLY TACKED IN PLACE, AND WE'RE GONNA LEAVE THEM THAT WAY UNTIL THE ENGINE IS PUT BACK INTO THE CHASSIS. THAT WAY IF WE HAVE TO MOVE SOME THINGS, IT WON'T TAKE AS MUCH WORK TO MODIFY THEM. NOW I'M SURE SOME OF YOU GUYS ARE WONDERING WHY WE STUCK WITH THE FACTORY FIVE POINT THREE INTAKE INSTEAD OF SWAPPING IT OUT TO MAYBE AN AFTERMARKET PIECE OR EVEN THE LS ONE PLENUM. WELL THE NICE THING ABOUT THIS INTAKE IS IT HAS A VERY LARGE PLENUM VOLUME. NOW THAT EXTRA PLENUM VOLUME SHOULD HELP US BUILD A LITTLE BIT MORE TORQUE LOWER IN THE RPM BAND. BUT MORE IMPORTANTLY, IT HAS ALL THE FACTORY SENSORS ALREADY IN IT, AND WE NEED THESE FACTORY SENSORS IN ORDER TO MAKE THIS ENGINE RUN. AND RIGHT NOW WE'RE AT THE MOST COMPLICATED PART WHEN IT COMES TO MODIFYING A COMPUTER CONTROLLED ENGINE, AND THAT IS THE ELECTRONICS. NOW IF YOU GET YOUR ENGINE FROM A JUNKYARD LIKE WE HAVE, THEY'RE GONNA GIVE YOU THE OPTION OF TAKING A TAKE OUT ENGINE. IT WILL COME WITH THE COMPLETE ENGINE WIRING HARNESS AS WELL AS THE VEHICLE'S COMPUTER. DISCONNECT IT FROM THE FACTORY FUSE BLOCK AND CUT AWAY FROM THE CHASSIS HARNESS. NOW WITH A LITTLE BIT OF WORK, YOU CAN MODIFY THIS SETUP HERE TO GET THAT DONOR ENGINE RUNNING IN JUST ABOUT ANY PROJECT. START TO MODIFY THAT ENGINE AND IT'S GONNA BE A LITTLE BIT MORE WORK. MODIFY IT A LOT AND YOU MIGHT AS WELL JUST GO AHEAD AND GET A 100 PERCENT STAND ALONE SETUP. NOW WE'RE GONNA RUN THIS SYSTEM HERE. IT'S A HOLLEY HP EFI. IT COMES WITH A 100 PERCENT NEW WIRING HARNESS FOR OUR ENGINE, AND MORE IMPORTANTLY A STAND ALONE ENGINE ECU. NOW THIS COMES LOADED WITH THE SOFTWARE NEEDED TO MAKE OUR ENGINE RUN, AND IT IS EVEN BOOST READY. SO WE'LL HAVE NO TROUBLE WITH OUR TURBO CHARGER. MOST IMPORTANTLY, THIS SETUP IS WHAT'S CALLED SELF LEARNING. IT MONITORS LEAVING THE ENGINE AND ADJUSTS THE FUEL AND TIMING TO GIVE US THE OPTIMAL PERFORMANCE. AND IT DOES THAT BY USING WHAT'S CALLED A WIDE BAND OTWO SENSOR. NOW UNDERSTANDING THE DIFFERENCE BETWEEN A WIDE BAND OTWO SENSOR AND A NORMAL OTWO SENSOR REALLY SOLVES THE SECRET OF THIS SETUP. A STANDARD OXYGEN SENSOR DOES EXACTLY WHAT THE NAME IMPLIES. IT'S MOUNTED IN THE EXHAUST AND MEASURES THE AMOUNT OF OXYGEN TO TELL THE COMPUTER IF THE ENGINE IS RUNNING RICH OR LEAN. THE PROBLEM IS THAT'S ALL IT CAN DO. SO THE AIR/FUEL RATIO IN THE EXHAUST IS CONSTANTLY FLUCTUATING. NOW A WIDE BAND OTWO SYSTEM IS COMPLETELY DIFFERENT. NOT ONLY CAN A WIDE BAND OTWO SENSOR TELL YOU IF IT'S RICH OR LEAN. MORE IMPORTANTLY, IT CAN TELL THE COMPUTER EXACTLY HOW RICH OR LEAN, AND IT TUNES THE ENGINE TO GET THAT IDEAL AIR/FUEL RATIO. THAT'S HOW THE SYSTEM SELF LEARNS. IT DOESN'T MATTER WHAT YOU DO TO THE ENGINE BECAUSE ALL THE MONITORING HAPPENS AT THE EXHAUST AS IT'S LEAVING THE CAR. BY SETTING UP THE IDEAL AIR/FUEL RATIO, YOU'LL END UP WITH THE IDEAL RUNNING ENGINE.

NOW AS MUCH AS WE'D LIKE TO DROP THIS ENGINE ON A RUN STAND AND FIRE IT UP, WE JUST CAN'T DO THAT. WE CAN'T GET IT RUNNING UNTIL IT'S BACK IN THE CHASSIS AND WE FINISH WELD ALL OF THE EXHAUST, BUT I HOPE YOU GUYS REALIZE WITH A LITTLE BIT OF RESEARCH YOU CAN BUILD A CUSTOM ENGINE AND NOT HAVE TO REPLACE EVERY SINGLE PIECE. JUST A CAM SHAFT, SOME VALVE SPRINGS, AND OF COURSE A GOOD TURBO, YOU CAN BUILD SOME SERIOUS POWER. FOR DETAILS ON ANY OF THE PRODUCTS SEEN IN TODAY'S EPISODE, HEAD ON OVER TO POWERBLOCK TV DOT COM.