Firing Up Haulin' S-10

Today, Harlan S 10 is back in the shop so we can plumb the fuel lines,

run the wiring harnesses

and then hold your ears because we're finally putting a spark to our 600 plus horsepower blown 355 VA

S.

That's all today here on trucks.

Hey, welcome to the shop. Well, here at trucks, Ryan and I are fast approaching a goal that we set for this V8 S 10 A truck you guys might remember is project S

10-K. Well, we wanted to transform this relatively quick little street truck into a serious street and strip truck that quite frankly is going to see a lot more track time than anything else. Now, S

10-K was an experiment to see if we could create a V8 S 10 within a $10,000 budget. And with the success of that project, well, it was time to take things to the next level.

So we stripped out the 350

pulled the bed off the frame

and installed S and W race cars back half frame section complete with a four length,

a narrow nine inch loaded up with strange nodular center section. 456 cogs

and curry heavy duty, 31 flying axles.

Aerospace engineering capped off the chassis with a lightweight four wheel disc brake package.

Now with our chassis rolling on lightweight Mickey Thompson et drag wheels wrapped by 26 by 7.5 inch tires up front and they're ultra sticky. 31 by 16.5 dot Tires out back, we turn to a company called A TK engines for some forward motivation.

They started out with a four volt main block loaded with a forged lunati crank rods and pistons giving us 355 inches of displacement and a very nice place for the

Yian 671 blower to reside.

Power estimates are around the 600 horse power mark. And with that much on tap, we had to have a transmission that would take the abuse.

So Mark, bowler of bowler performance transmissions hooked us up with one of his prepped turbo 403 speed automatics that's rated safely up to 650 ft pounds of torque.

Now, to connect all that motivation to the rear axle, we called up Denny's drive shafts

and they sent us a two piece shaft based on our measurements that has balanced up to 7000 RPM and capable of handling massive amounts of torque.

Now, with the chassis pretty much rock solid. Ryan's been hard at work inside the cab here, installing the Kirky racing seats and the snw roll cage that's gonna be connected to the frame at eight different points for really good security in here. Our hearst quarter shifters installed flaming of her steering column, grant wheel, auto meter gauges and his pain performance switch panel for engine communication.

Now, along with our propane engine mounts, we're gonna shave down this competition, engineering front plate to stabilize the block while we're at the track. Kevin also made a snug little home for a flex light radiator here in our core support. Now, this engine is gonna need a lot of gas. But how much well under boost? We're gonna need 40 to 50% more fuel than a naturally aspirated engine. So if you're building a blown engine, make sure your fuel systems up to the task.

And there's formulas available on Holly's website you can use

to determine your engines, fuel requirements so you can pick the right pump line and carb combination running. One of these boosted engines lean will get you in trouble in a hurry. Maybe even melting piston.

We're not gonna let that happen using this 150 gallon per hour in line electric pump we got from Holly that's capable of sustaining 900 horsepower and we're gonna use half inch braided stainless line and a and fittings that we got from Earls to make a really clean looking system but also very safe fuel system.

A nice clean installation is for more than just good looks

organized, routing of electrical wires and fluid lines makes for easy troubleshooting and repairs at the track as well as a safe project.

So we're using T clamps to mount and isolate the fuel line.

These clamps come molded in several different colors, almost every size imaginable and they eliminate the possibility of damage caused by excessive vibration

up front. Ryan's using more Earls A N dash eight fittings with their half inch braided stainless steel line plumbed into Holly's adjustable fuel pressure regulator.

We've mounted ours on the firewall for easy access and tuning at the track.

Now, from here, you can see how we tubed the bed. We just trimmed and moved the inner wheelhouses inboard and then inserted the eight inch piece of flat stock that s and W provides with a kit welded it in place. It's very simple but very effective. Our fuel cell comes from summit racing and we'll plummet to the pump with the same a and fittings and half inch line. But since our pump does not require a return line, we'll just plug this extra port off.

When we come back, we'll do away with that heavy old stock wiring harness, a perfectly good running truck and replace it with a new lighter system and it weighs in at

stick around.

Hey, welcome back with the fuel system. Plumbed on Haland S 10, we can get started wiring up the electric fuel pump and all the other circuits and accessories on the truck. Since we literally stripped out the entire original harness.

So you're probably thinking to yourself, that was a perfectly good running truck. Everything worked, the lights, the stereo, the air conditioning. A BS EF I and engine circuits. Why did they rip out the entire original harness? But we're gonna show you why?

Ok, let's go

clean right here. And right now this is a race truck that we're going to be able to drive on the street every once in a while without getting a ticket. And that only depends on how deep we push our right foot into the loud pedal. And weight can mean the difference between winning a race. And not as a matter of fact, the general consensus is that for every 100 pounds of weight that you shed off of your vehicle, you shave 1/10 of a second off your quarter mile es,

that matters. So, we're gonna do a little experiment here using our intercom scales.

Well, it looks like our original engine and chassis harnesses weighs in at about uh 44 pounds. So we're going to replace

all this mess with a new painless performance race harness. Now, this system comes with a new switch panel, a 12 circuit fuse block, all the gauge feeds and everything that you need for a complete wiring replacement system

and it weighs in at

14 pounds. That is a 30 pound weight reduction in just the wiring alone, let alone A BS, the steel hood, the inner fenders, the upholstery carpet, we've literally bought ourselves about a half a second off our ETS without even touching the engine.

Now, rewiring a vehicle is a project. Most people absolutely dread ranks right up there with working on an automatic transmission

or going to the dentist. But take a look at this animation,

maybe you'll realize a job like this is something you can tackle. Specially on a simplified system. Like this one.

Think of the battery as a storage tank for electricity

from the battery positive post power flows through the heavy cable to our main battery disconnect. Switch, the more current that passes through the wire, the larger gauge wire you will need

with it in the on position. We now have power available at the starter and fuse block fuses enable the power to continue to the switch panel where it awaits the command to move on

at the push of a button. Electricity then activates the consumer of the power, whether it's a light bulb starter motor or fuel pump.

The circuit is then completed with a connection to the battery's ground. Typically through the vehicle's frame.

Then when the engine fires and the alternator starts spinning, it will in effect, refill and maintain the power level in the battery.

Now, for our electrical storage tank,

we're going to use an optima and to get this truck wired up, we're going to start at the battery. Ours is going here behind the right rear wheel. Well, to help with weight distribution and weight transfer. Plus this aluminum battery box, it's N hr A approved,

we're using heavy four gauge wire for battery power and ground that comes with the Taylor relocation kit.

Since the battery cable runs the length of the vehicle, you'll need a large enough wire to allow good current flow.

Now, since our power supply and our fuel supply, both go to the same side of the engine and both down the passenger side frame rail. We're gonna route our battery cable through the frame for a little extra security.

Go ahead.

All right.

Using a length of tie wire, you can run it through the frame rail and pull your cables or harnesses through while someone else feeds it on the other end,

then it gets run through the bottom of the floor up to the battery cut off, switch in the cab

after the break, we'll finish wiring up our truck and get the dash mounted.

Sweet

and later it's fire in the hall.

Hey, thanks for watching trucks. If you're just joining us, we've already got our fuel lines run and our fuel pump in our truck and we're about to dig into the wiring system of hall and S 10, we're using this basic 12 circuit system we got from painless and it covers the essentials, but this is really no different than any other wiring system

with our battery cable tucked neatly into the frame rail and run up here into the cab will mount our main cut off switch right here where not only the driver and the passenger can reach it, but somebody from the outside of the truck can as well.

Now, some things are just easier to work on when you pull them out of the truck. The original location for the fuse panel for our S 10 was right here on the side of the dash. Now, we want better access than that.

The good news is that we can put that fuse panel pretty much anywhere we want. So we're gonna use a central location right here where the ashtray used to go and mount our new painless fuse block right up in here. All we gotta do is fabricate some brackets. We're good to go

using some scrap pieces of 16 gauge stainless steel. Kevin made some simple mounting brackets for the fuse panel

using a central and accessible location like the center of the dash

keeps you from having to stand on your head to change fuses or to test circuits

and it's still out of sight if you're concerned about a clean appearance

after finding a good location for the engine harness on the driver's side. Firewall Ryan routes the harness through from the engine side so it could be connected with the main harness using a grommet, helps keep the weather and fumes out as well as making sure the wiring isn't

chafed or damaged during installation.

There you go.

Nice. Now, since we know our MS D box is gonna mount right here on the firewall. Well, we know our ignition on and our tax signal wires, they'll terminate right here

and the rest of these handful of wires, well, they'll go to the starter and starter solenoid and a couple of them to gauge sending units.

The engine connections are labeled on the wires and are trimmed to fit terminated and installed.

But the heart of the engine wiring is the ignition system we got from MS D. It's their six BT M box that comes with a boost

retard selector.

Now, we've got a nice patch of unused real estate on the firewall where the heater box used to be, that'll make the perfect mounting point for the box.

The rear section of the chassis harness is a fuel pump switch and sending unit and all the brake light information as well. So we're gonna run it along the roll cage and then down under the truck alongside of the rail. So since it's going outside the vehicle, we're gonna protect it with this woven plastic sheathing.

The chassis harness has the lighting and fuel circuits and gets run inside the cab

and then under the bed along the left side frame rail.

That way, the wiring harness is on one side

and the fuel is on the other.

The switch panel feeds get cut to length and terminated into the supplied bulkhead connectors.

This way, this assembly is as easy as disconnecting one plug. If the dash needs to come back out.

Sweet.

Hey, welcome back to trucks where we are so close to having Hall and S 10 become the running driving street sweeper that we know it can be. Thanks to the painless performance, 12th circuit race harness and this culvert sized half inch fuel line and fittings that we've got feeding this monster right now. We're triple checking things like fluid levels, electrical connections and fitment,

making sure that everything is up to snuff before we start this thing up.

Now, starting the engine up today is not the same as an initial break in, run on a fresh rebuild. A TK ran the engine in when they put it together at their facility and gave it a thorough flogging.

So we don't have to worry about things like initial timing, valve adjustments or running in the rings in the camp and we know it'll hold together a wide open throttle.

Now, our plan all along with this truck was to make good power without being stuck with waste gas. So what's in the tank now is straight from the pump, 93 octane. Now, we've already blown out our new fuel line with compressed air, but it's a good idea to purge the line with fuel and the fuel pump just in case there's any debris or shaving, still kicking around. Ok. Hit it.

Good. Nice and clean.

Now, for our cooling system, we're gonna run straight water and a cooling system additive, it'll lubricate the water pump seals and reduce the surface tension of the water, creating a more efficient cooling system. Now, at the track, if we were to bust a hose with an antifreeze water mixture, well, it makes a slick mess and that's the last thing you want to run through at the 1000 ft mark.

Now, for our super charger drive belt, since it's a tooth belt, you don't want it too tight. You want about an inch of play, half inch on either side of the belt, make sure to check it periodically. Go ahead and hit it.

Well, this thing is sounding really nasty, but before we take it out of the track, we're gonna give it a good solid and thorough tech check, make sure everything's good to go. Then we'll see if we can't do something about the appearance

because we wanna eliminate any evidence that this was ever project S

10-K. Give it a paint job deserving of its new name hall and S 10.

If you've got polished aluminum anywhere in your vehicle, you're probably like me and have a love, hate relationship with it. You love how it looks all shined up but you hate the amount of work and hand rubbing it takes to keep it that way. Well, that's where Flits comes in with their mini ball and their new Super mini ball,

the individual fingers are designed to get down into the cracks and crevices and literally take all the hand work and the hard work out of keeping your aluminum shiny.

Now, the combination of the flits ball and Polish works great on chrome too and you can get your hands on a flit super mini ball for less than 30 bucks.

Now, here's a handy tip for you. Earlier today, you saw us around our battery cable through the frame rail. Well, there might be some exposed sharp edges that can rub the insulation of the cable causing a short circuit, put an early end to our day.

So we made up this box to simulate a section of frame rail so we can show you what we've done

with a couple

holes drilled in the frame rail. You can use an expanding foam sealer that you can get at any hardware store or home center. It expands to several times its size and takes a few hours to set up. So try not to move the wires around for a while.

Now, you may wanna put some plastic or paper down to protect the floor because this stuff can get messy.

But after it dries, your wiring is not going anywhere.

Thanks for watching trucks, we'll see you guys next week.