Buckin’ Bronco

(ANNOUNCER)>> WHEN YOU'RE BUILDING A RIG DESIGNED TO

HANDLE THE ZOMBIE APOCALYPSE, DROPPING IN A DIESEL ENGINE IS A NO BRAINER, BUT FITTING A CUMMINS INTO THIS CHEVY IS A BIG JOB. TODAY ON XTREME OFF ROAD WE MAKE THAT TASK MUCH EASIER WITH A DIESEL CONVERSION KIT TO HANDLE ALMOST ANYTHING WE THROW AT THIS RIG. PLUS WE DESIGN A CUSTOM WELDING CART TO KEEP ALL OF OUR FABRICATION ESSENTIALS AT THE READY, AND BUCKIN' BRONCO GETS SUSPENSION SEATS DESIGNED FOR COMFORT AND SAFETY.

(IAN)>> WHEN YOU'RE BUILDING A TRUCK TO USE AT THE END OF THE WORLD, WELL THE DRIVETRAIN IS PRETTY IMPORTANT. I'VE ALREADY SHOWN YOU THE PORTAL AXLES THAT ARE GONNA GO UNDERNEATH THIS SQUARE BODY SUBURBAN BUT WHAT ABOUT UNDERNEATH THE HOOD? WE PUT SOME FEELERS OUT TO YOU GUYS VIA SOCIAL MEDIA ASKING YOU WHAT WOULD BE THE ENGINE YOU'D PUT IN YOUR ZOMBIE APOCALYPSE RIG, AND YOU CHOSE THE SAME MOTOR THAT I DID, THE 12 VALVE FULLY MECHANICAL STRAIGHT SIX CUMMINS ENGINE. IT IS PERFECT FOR THE END OF THE WORLD.

100 PERCENT MECHANICAL, NO ELECTRONICS, I CAN RUN IT

ON DIESEL FUEL, EVEN WASTE VEGETABLE OIL, PROBABLY EVEN ENGINE OIL IN A PINCH, BUT FITTING THIS MOTOR UNDERNEATH THE HOOD OF THAT TRUCK, WELL IT TAKES A LITTLE BIT OF WORK AND IT STARTS BY MAKING A WHOLE LOT OF ROOM. [ impact wrench spinning ]

(IAN)>> OH MAN! WHEN DOING A COMPLETE DRIVETRAIN SWAP, IT MAKES THINGS A LOT EASIER TO REMOVE THE ENTIRE FRONT CLIP OFF OF THE VEHICLE. IT IS TIME CONSUMING BUT IN THE END IT IS ACTUALLY FASTER TO REMOVE THE INNER FENDERS, FENDERS, HOOD, AND RADIATOR SUPPORT TO GET ACCESS TO THE ENGINE. [ impact wrench spinning ]

(IAN)>> THIS FENDER'S GARBAGE! THIS NOT ONLY MAKES UNHOOKING EVERYTHING A LOT EASIER, BUT ALSO ALLOW THE ENTIRE DRIVETRAIN TO BE PULLED AS A SINGLE UNIT.

WITH THE ENTIRE DRIVETRAIN OUT OF OUR TRUCK AND THE PLAN TO REPLACE IT WITH A CUMMINS 12 VALVE AND MANUAL TRANSMISSION, YOU WOULD THINK THAT THE NEXT

LOGICAL STEP FOR US IS GONNA BE A PILE OF CUSTOM

FAB BUT THAT IS NOT THE CASE. DIESEL CONVERSION SPECIALIST IS A COMPANY THAT KNOWS PEOPLE WANT ALL THE BENEFITS OF A CUMMINS ENGINE INSIDE MANY DIFFERENT TYPES OF TRUCKS. SO THEY MAKE COMPLETE CONVERSION PACKAGES TO MAKE THAT SWAP POSSIBLE. IT INCLUDES EVERYTHING YOU'RE GONNA NEED FROM ADAPTER PLATES FOR THE CUMMINS ENGINE AND MANY DIFFERENT TYPES OF TRANSMISSIONS, DIFFERENT TURBO MANIFOLDS TO RELOCATE THE TURBO UNDERNEATH THE HOOD IN THE PROPER LOCATION, MOTOR MOUNTS, NUTS AND BOLTS, EVEN AN ENGINE SPEED SENSOR THAT WILL ALLOW US TO USE AN ELECTRONIC

TACHOMETER WITH OUR FULLY MECHANICAL CUMMINS 12 VALVE.

DCS PRETTY MUCH HAS A PACKAGE TO GET ANY GENERATION OF CUMMINS ENGINE UNDERNEATH THE HOOD OF ALMOST ANY TRUCK. I'M SURE SOME OF YOU GUYS ARE WONDERING, WHAT'S UP WITH THE ADAPTER PLATE? WELL WE'VE GOT A PRETTY SPECIAL TRANSMISSION PICKED OUT FOR THIS RIG. THIS IS A ZF SIX MANUAL TRANSMISSION. NOW IT'S A SIX SPEED STICK WITH WHAT'S CALLED A "BULL

LOW" OR "GRANNY LOW" FIRST GEAR. THIS GIVES US GOBS OF TORQUE IN THAT FIRST GEAR SETTING. THIS TRANSMISSION IS NORMALLY FOUND IN GM OR FORD MEDIUM TO HEAVY DUTY TRUCKS. SO YOUR ONE TONS AND YOUR SUPER DUTIES. NOW I CHOSE THE FORD VERSION FOR A COUPLE OF DIFFERENT REASONS. THE FORD HAS A 13 INCH CLUTCH AND PRESSURE PLATE ASSEMBLY. SO IT'LL GIVE US LOTS OF CLAMPING FORCE FOR OUR ENGINE, AND THE FORD ALSO HAS AN EXTERNAL OIL COOLER. NOW NORMALLY YOU'D FIND THAT IN AN AUTOMATIC TRANSMISSION BUT BEING ABLE TO KEEP ALL THE FLUID COOL INSIDE THIS ONE PIECE ALUMINUM HOUSING JUST HELPS EXTEND THE LIFE OF THIS TRANSMISSION. BY CHOOSING A MODERN TRANSMISSION I ALSO HAVE A HYDRAULIC SLAVE CYLINDER TO ACTIVATE THE CLUTCH INSTEAD OF A MECHANICAL LINKAGE. THAT WILL JUST MAKE THIS SWAP A LOT EASIER. NOW THIS WILL BOLT UP TO OUR ADAPTER PLATE, WHICH WILL THEN BOLT UP TO THE CUMMINS ENGINE, BUT THE QUESTION IS WILL A TRANSMISSION THAT BIG FIT UNDERNEATH THE FLOOR OF OUR SUBURBAN?

WELL THERE'S ONLY ONE WAY TO FIND OUT AND THAT IS TO

MOCK IT INTO PLACE.

SINCE WE'RE JUST GONNA BE MOCKING EVERYTHING INTO PLACE, I CAN STRIP THE PARTS OFF THE ENGINE THAT WE DON'T NEED RIGHT NOW. [ impact wrench spinning ]

(IAN)>> THEN BOLT THE ADAPTER PLATE ONTO THE

BACK OF THE BLOCK, FOLLOWED BY THE TRANSMISSION.

THE NEW DCS ENGINE PLATES ARE INSTALLED ONTO THE CUMMINS, AND THE NEW MOTOR MOUNTS ARE BOLTED

ONTO THE FRAME, BUT ONCE IN POSITION OVER THE FRAME IT'S PRETTY OBVIOUS THAT SIMPLY SLIDING THIS PACKAGE IN BETWEEN THE FRAME RAILS, IT'S NOT GONNA BE THAT EASY. WE HAVE TO RESORT TO PLANB.

PLANB!

(ANNOUNCER)>> UH YEAH, UP NEXT, PLANB.

(IAN)>> SO OUR INITIAL ATTEMPT TO OUR INSTALL OUR CUMMINS 12 VALVE DIDN'T GO SO WELL, AND I KINDA THOUGHT THAT WOULD HAPPEN.

YOU'VE GOTTA REMEMBER, THE SUBURBAN FLOOR IS ACTUALLY PRETTY LOW, AND OUR TRANSMISSION IS INCREDIBLY TALL. SO PLANB, WELL THERE'S TWO OPTION. NUMBER ONE, I CAN GRAB THE PLASMA CUTTER, DIVE IN THERE, AND JUST START CUTTING THE FLOOR OUT OF THE TRUCK AND HOPING THAT I CAN STAB THE MOTOR IN, BUT HONESTLY A BETTER THING TO DO RIGHT NOW IS TO PREP THIS BODY TO COME OFF THE FRAME AND THEN DROP THE DRIVETRAIN IN, LOWER THE BODY BACK DOWN OVER TOP IT. THAT WAY YOU CAN SURGICALLY CUT THE FLOOR. PLUS I NEED THE BODY OFF THE FRAME FOR A PRETTY IMPRESSIVE MODIFICATION THAT I'M GONNA DO OUT BACK, BUT YOU HAVE TO WAIT TO SEE THAT. SO RIGHT NOW I'VE GOT TO UNHOOK MORE STUFF. OH, OH, OH, I GOT IT ON MY PANTS! I'M ALRIGHT THOUGH, JUST WATER.

IT MAY SOUND EXTREME, BUT ONCE THE DRIVETRAIN IS REMOVED FROM A VEHICLE LIKE OUR SUBURBAN, PULLING THE BODY IS NOT THAT HARD TO DO. JUST SOME BRAKE LINES, BODY MOUNTS, AND A FEW ELECTRICAL CONNECTIONS, AND THE BODY IS RAISED UP OUT OF THE WAY AND THE 12 VALVE CAN BE DROPPED INTO PLACE.

IT'S TIGHT, WE'VE GOT TO MAKE SOME CHANGES. PULLING THE BODY OFF OF THE FRAME WAS THE RIGHT DECISION TO GET THIS MOTOR AND TRANSMISSION STABBED INTO PLACE. IT JUST GAVE ME MUCH MORE ROOM TO WORK WITH. NOW DCS DID TELL ME THAT I HAD TO PAY ATTENTION TO A COUPLE OF KEY AREAS. THE FIRST IS THIS FRAME CROSS MEMBER AND HOW IT RELATES TO THE ENGINE BALANCER, AND YOU CAN SEE IT RELATES REAL CLOSE RIGHT NOW. THEY'RE ACTUALLY TOUCHING. SO THIS NEEDS TO BE CLEARANCED.

ALSO WHERE THE CYLINDER HEAD SITS IN RELATION TO THE TRUCK'S FIREWALL BECAUSE YOU HAVE TO REMEMBER, THE SUBURBAN WAS A VEIGHT TRUCK. SO THE ENGINE WAS ONLY FOUR CYLINDERS LONG. THE 12 VALVE IS A SIX CYLINDER, SO IT'S MUCH LONGER. SO WITH EVERYTHING IN PLACE I KNOW I'M GONNA

HAVE TO PULL THE MOTOR AHEAD PROBABLY ABOUT HALF AN INCH. THEN I CAN GO AHEAD AND CLEARANCE THIS CROSS MEMBER. THEN I CAN CUT A HOLE IN THE FLOOR TO MAKE ROOM FOR THE TRANSMISSION AND LOWER THE BODY DOWN. BUT ALL IN ALL I'M HAPPY WITH THE POSITION OF THE 12 VALVE, I'VE JUST GOT TO TWEAK IT A LITTLE BIT. SOME MARKS NEED TO BE MADE ON BOTH THE BODY AND THE FRAME BEFORE THE BODY IS RAISED UP OUT OF THE WAY

ND THE ENGINE AND TRANSMISSION ARE LIFTED FOR CLEARANCE. WITH THE CROSS MEMBER CUT WITH THE PLASMA CUTTER, THE ENGINE IS LOWERED BACK INTO PLACE AND THE MOTOR MOUNTS ARE THEN TACKED TO THE FRAME TO LOCATE THEM IN PLACE. THE FIRST CUT IN THE FLOOR IS JUST FOR THE SHIFTER.

THE BODY IS THEN LOWERED BACK DOWN TO CHECK FOR CLEARANCE IN THE TUNNEL. A WHOLE BUNCH OF CUTTING AND WE'RE READY FOR A FINAL TEST FIT.

I AM ACTUALLY PLEASANTLY SURPRISED THAT THE TRANSMISSION IS FITTING UNDERNEATH THE FLOOR OF THIS TRUCK WITHOUT ANY MAJOR CUTTING. I HONESTLY THOUGHT I WAS GONNA HAVE TO BASICALLY CUT THE WHOLE CENTER OUT OF THE TRANSMISSION TUNNEL JUST TO FIT THE TRANSMISSION INTO THE TRUCK, BUT THAT'S NOT THE CASE. THE ONLY PLACE THAT IT'S ACTUALLY CONTACTING RIGHT NOW IS ON THE EDGE OF THE VACUUM BRAKE BOOSTER. NOW THAT'S NOT A BIG DEAL BECAUSE WE'RE NOT GONNA RUN VACUUM ASSISTED BRAKES ON THIS TRUCK. WE'RE GONNA RUN A HYDRO BOOST, OR A HYDRAULIC ASSISTED BRAKES. THAT'S PRETTY COMMON WHEN IT COMES TO DIESEL ENGINES, AND THEY ARE A LOT SMALLER. SO I CAN GET THIS VACUUM BOOSTER OUT OF THE WAY AND THEN I THINK THAT'S JUST TOUCHING AT THE TOP OF THE TRANSMISSION. MAYBE A LITTLE BIT MORE CUTTING AND THEN THIS BODY WILL ACTUALLY BE ON THE FRAME.

OFTEN IT'S BETTER TO CLEARANCE THE BODY WITH A HAMMER INSTEAD OF A SAW. IT ELIMINATES THE NEED FOR FUTURE PATCHES. AND NOW WE'VE GOT A SQUARE BODY CHEVROLET SUBURBAN WITH A 12 VALVE UNDER THE HOOD.

(ANNOUNCER)>> COMING UP A DIY WELDING CART TO HOLD EVERYTHING WE NEED.

(IAN)>> ONE OF THE COOLEST THINGS ABOUT HAVING A WELDER, AND A PLASMA TABLE, AND A BUNCH OF FAB TOOLS IN YOUR SHOP IS YOU HAVE THE ABILITY TO BUILD ALMOST ANYTHING THAT YOU WANT, AND SOME OF THOSE THINGS ARE GONNA BE TOOLS THAT YOU ACTUALLY USE IN YOUR SHOP ENVIRONMENT. NOW I'VE BEEN ROCKING THE REBEL HERE IN THE XTREME OFF ROAD SHOP FOR A WHILE, AND I JUST TOSSED IT ON THIS SIMPLE WELDING CART THAT I PICKED UP ONLINE. BUT I WANT SOMETHING A LITTLE BIT MORE CUSTOM BECAUSE OF ALL THE FEATURES THIS MACHINE HAS, AND I'M GONNA BUILD IT MYSELF.

THE WELDER, ALONG WITH TWO SMALL CYLINDERS, ARE PLACED ON THE FLOOR TO GET THE OVERALL SIZE NEEDED

FOR THE BASE OF THE CART.

TWO BY THREE RECTANGULAR STEEL IS CUT AT 45 DEGREES TO PROVIDE A CLEAN, FINISHED LOOK TO THE CORNERS.

[ welder crackling ]

(IAN)>> THE TOP SHELF OF THE CART WILL BE MADE FROM TWO BY TWO, 16 GAUGES SQUARE STEEL. THE UPPER SHELF SITS TWO FEET ABOVE THE BASE AND IS SUPPORTED WITH GUSSETS CUT ON OUR PLASMA TABLE.

[ welder crackling ]

(IAN)>> ONE OF THE UNIQUE FEATURES OF THE REBEL WELDER IS THE FACT THAT IT'S A

MULTIPROCESS MACHINE. THAT MEANS THAT I CAN MIG WELD WITH IT, I CAN ARC WELD WITH IT, I CAN ALSO SPOOL GUN MIG SOME ALUMINUM, AND TIG WELD, BUT FOR THE SPOOL GUN AND THE TIG WELD I DO NEED TO CHANGE THE GAS OVER TO PURE ARGON. SO ON THE BACK OF MY WELDING CART I'M GONNA MAKE A DUAL CYLINDER MOUNT. NOW WHENEVER YOU'RE DEALING WITH CYLINDERS, YOU WANT TO MAKE SURE THAT THEY'RE SECURED VERY WELL. SO WHAT I'M GONNA DO IS I'M GONNA MAKE BASICALLY A FOOT FOR THE CYLINDER TO DROP INTO AND THAT'LL LOCK

THE BOTTOM OF THE CYLINDER IN PLACE, AND THEN WE CAN ATTACH THE CENTER TO THE WELDING CART. THAT WAY THEY'RE NOT ALL FLOPPING AROUND WHEN

YOU'RE MOVING THE WELDER AROUND THE SHOP.

TWO SHELLS ARE SKINNED WITH SOME 16 GAUGE TREAD PLATE. THE NONSLIP SURFACE WILL HELP KEEP THE WELDER IN PLACE WHEN THE CART IS ROLLED AROUND. [ welder crackling ]

(IAN)>> THE TOP IS THEN FINISHED OFF WITH MULTIPLE HOOKS. WELDING CARTS NEVER HAVE ENOUGH HOOKS.

SO I'M ADDING THREE TO EACH SIDE, AND USING SOME OLD UJOINT STRAPS TO HANG SAFETY GLASSES AND SIDE CUTTERS. [ welder crackling ]

(IAN)>> THEN WE'LL WELD SOME CASTORS UP TO THE FRONT OF THE CART AND BOLT UP SOME RUBBER WHEELS ONTO THE BACK.

NOW ALL I HAVE LEFT TO DO IS FINISH WELD THE ENTIRE CART AND THEN PREP IT FOR A COAT OF PAINT. NOW A WELDING CART IS A GREAT FIRST TIME WELDING PROJECT IF YOU'VE PICKED UP YOUR VERY FIRST MIG WELDER. IT'S GONNA GIVE YOU LOTS OF PRACTICE WITH A BUNCH

OF DIFFERENT JOINTS. AND THE BEST THING IS THE SKY'S THE LIMIT.

DON'T JUST LIMIT YOURSELF TO A SPOT TO MOUNT YOUR WELDER AND SOME HOOKS. ANYTHING YOU WANT ON YOUR WELDING CART YOU

CAN MAKE IT HAPPEN.

YOU CAN PUT A VICE ON ONE SIDE, EVEN A FOLD UP TABLE THAT YOU CAN WELD ON ON THE OTHER. AT THE END OF THE DAY IT'S YOUR WELDING CAR. MAKE IT CUSTOM TO FIT YOUR NEEDS.

(IAN)>> WE'RE GONNA CONTINUE ON BUCKIN' BRONCO JUST FOCUSING ON THE PASSENGER COMPARTMENT ONCE AGAIN BECAUSE BEFORE I CAN MOVE OUT AND FINISH THE TUBE WORK ON THE BACK I NEED TO REPOSITION IT ON

THE CHASSIS JIG BECAUSE WE'RE RIGHT AT THE BACK OF THE TABLE RIGHT NOW. I NEED TO MOVE THE WHOLE RIG FORWARD. BUT BEFORE I DO THAT I WANT TO MOUNT SOME SEATS IN HERE AND BUILD SOME SEAT MOUNTS, AND MAKE SURE THAT THEY'RE IN THE CORRECT POSITION, JIGGED UP LIKE THE REST OF THE CHASSIS.

NOW WHEN IT COMES TO PUTTING SEATS IN A VEHICLE THAT YOU'RE GONNA DRIVE OFF ROAD AT SPEED, THERE ARE SOME PRETTY SERIOUS THINGS YOU HAVE TO PAY ATTENTION TO, AND IT ALL STARTS WITH WHAT KIND OF SEAT YOU PUT IN YOUR RIG. WHEN IT COMES TO SERIOUS OFF ROADING, SEATS AREN'T JUST SEATS. THEY'RE SPECIFIC PIECES OF SAFETY EQUIPMENT. RESIST THE URGE TO RUN DOWN TO YOUR LOCAL SCRAPYARD AND PICK UP A SET OF FACTORY BUCKETS, EVEN IF YOU FIND A SET AS SWEET AS THESE FAKE LEATHER FIRE EMBROIDERED PIECES THAT I PULLED OUT OF A PROJECT HERE AT THE SHOP.

THESE WILL NOT LAST IN AN OFF ROAD TRUCK.

FIRST PROBLEM, THIS IS A TWO PIECE SEAT.

IT'S GOT A BASE AND A BACK, AND THEY'RE ATTACHED WITH A RECLINING MECHANISM. WHILE THIS RECLINING MECHANISM IS GREAT WHEN YOU JUST WANT TO ADJUST HOW YOU'RE GONNA SIT

DRIVING DOWN THE ROAD, BUT THROW IT INTO A SERIOUS OFF ROAD ENVIRONMENT AND IT WILL FAIL. THE SEAT BACK WILL BECOME LOOSE AND YOU WILL NO LONGER BE SAFE. SECOND PROBLEM IS THE HEAD REST. IT'S USUALLY JUST PINNED IN PLACE, AND IT'S OFTEN

ALSO REMOVABLE. IN A SERIOUS OFF ROAD CRASH THAT HEAD REST IS GONNA COME FLYING OFF THE SEAT AND YOU'LL HAVE NO

SUPPORT FOR THE BACK OF YOUR HEAD. THEY'RE MADE OUT OF STAMPED STEEL, THEY'RE LITERALLY HELD TOGETHER WITH CLIPS AND SPRINGS. THEY WILL SHAKE APART IF YOU HIT THAT SEAT HARD ENOUGH. YOU NEED A SEAT THAT IS ACTUALLY DESIGNED FOR HARDCORE OFF ROADING. SOMETHING LIKE THIS PRP SEAT. THEY'RE NOT STAMPED STEEL CONSTRUCTION. IT'S ALL TUBULAR STEEL. IT'S A SINGLE PIECE SEAT, AND IT'S DESIGNED TO BE USED OFF ROAD.

IT'S GOOD AND STRONG, HAS WEBBING THAT'LL ABSORB SOME OF THE SHOCKS. IT ALSO HAS PROVISIONS FOR THE FIVE POINT HARNESS BOTH AT YOUR SHOULDERS AND FOR YOUR ANTISUBMARINE BELT, WHICH IS INCREDIBLY IMPORTANT. A SEAT LIKE THIS IS ACTUALLY NOT THAT MUCH. THEY USUALLY ONLY COST AROUND $500 DOLLARS, AND IT'S A SMALL PRICE TO PAY TO KEEP YOU SAFE IN YOUR RIG.

OH YEAH, OH I HAVE PLENTY AROUND! I MAY HAVE TO MOVE THIS BAR. CUT SOME TUBING!

FOR THE SEAT MOUNTS I'M GONNA USE SOME INCH AND THREE QUARTER .090 WALL DOM JUST TO SAVE A LITTLE BIT OF WEIGHT.

AND THE TAB CAN BE TACKED ONTO THE TUBE.

A PIECE OF THREADED ROD IS USED TO LOCATE THE OPPOSITE SIDE SEAT TAB TO ENSURE THAT IT'S LINED UP CORRECTLY.

WHEN YOU UNPACK YOUR SEATBELTS, YOU SHOULD FIND A PIECE OF PAPER THAT LOOKS LIKE THIS. IF YOU DON'T YOU CAN EASILY FIND IT ONLINE. IT IS THE SFI FOUNDATION FIVE POINT HARNESS INSTALLATION GUIDELINES. NOW WE'RE LOOKING FOR THREE KEY ITEMS FOR OUR BUGGY. WHAT WE WANT IS WE WANT TO PAY ATTENTION TO THE LOCATION OF FIRST THE SHOULDER BELT. THE SHOULDER BELT NEEDS TO TRAVEL BACK FROM YOUR SHOULDERS AT EITHER ZERO DEGREES

TO MINUS 20 DEGREES.

IDEALLY WE WANT IT AT MINUS 10. THE LAP BELT WE WANT AT EITHER A 45 TO 80 DEGREE ANGLE, BASICALLY COMING STRAIGHT BACK ACROSS YOUR PELVIS LOCKED INTO THE BOTTOM OF THE CHASSIS. AND THEN THE THIRD POINT IS GOING TO BE THE CROTCH STRAP, OR ANTISUBMARINE BELT. NOW THAT'S GONNA TRAVEL DOWN THROUGH THE HOLE IN

THE SEAT AND LOCK IN THE BOTTOM OF THE CHASSIS. THAT BELT IS ACTUALLY MORE IMPORTANT THAN YOU THINK. NOT ONLY WILL IT KEEP YOU FROM SLIDING OUT FROM UNDERNEATH YOUR FOUR POINTS OF YOUR HARNESS IN THE EVENT OF AN ACCIDENT, IT ALSO WILL KEEP THE LAP BELT ALWAYS IN THE CORRECT POSITION WHILE YOU'RE WHEELING. SO NOW THAT WE KNOW WHERE WE NEED TO PUT OUR TABS, WE CAN WELD THEM IN.