Project: Buckin' Bronco

(ANNOUNCER)>> THESE DAYS IF YOU WANT TO BUILD A CLASSIC '66 BRONCO ALL YOU NEED ARE SOME BODY PANELS, A PILE OF TUBING, AND A PLAN. TODAY ON XTREME OFF ROAD WE DESIGN A HARDCORE DESERT RACER IN THE SPIRIT OF FORD'S MOST ICONIC UTILITY VEHICLE. PLUS STEP BY STEP DETAILS FOR SETTING UP YOUR OXY FUEL TORCH FOR PEAK PERFORMANCE.

(IAN)>> I'VE GOT A PILE OF FRESH SHEET METAL HERE IN THE SHOP, ALL FROM LMC TRUCK. I'M SURE YOU FIGURED OUT THAT MEANS SOME TYPE OF A CLASSIC VEHICLE BUILD. NOW THIS IS A PROJECT THAT YOU GUYS HAVE BEEN ASKING ME TO TACKLE FOR YEARS, AND I'VE WAITED UNTIL NOW FOR A VERY SPECIFIC REASON. 50 YEARS AGO FORD INTRODUCED THE FORD BRONCO, AND IT WAS INCREDIBLY POPULAR. SOME ARGUE THAT IT'S ONE OF THE VERY FIRST COMPACT SUV'S, AND I'VE BEEN DYING TO BUILD ONE. SO THE 50TH ANNIVERSARY SEEMS LIKE THE PERFECT TIME. NOW YOU CAN TELL BY THE PILE OF BOXES THAT I'VE PICKED A RATHER ROUGH DONOR VEHICLE TO START WITH BECAUSE I MEAN, SERIOUSLY, THIS IS GONNA BE AN XTREME BRONCO, NOT A RESTORED VEHICLE. SO I HAVE TO START AT A VERY SPECIFIC POINT. WE'RE GONNA START RIGHT HERE. NOW YOU GUESSED IT, THERE IS NO DONOR VEHICLE FOR THIS PROJECT. I'M BASICALLY GONNA START FROM SCRATCH. I'M GONNA USE MY STRONG HAND TOOLS FAB TABLE AND THE SHEET METAL FROM LMC TO BASICALLY CREATE THE XTREME BRONCO, AND I'M DOING THIS FOR A COUPLE OF DIFFERENT REASONS. FIRST OF ALL, LMC OFFERS ENOUGH BRONCO PANELS FOR ME TO BASICALLY BUILD MY OWN BRONCO BODY, AND THE QUALITY OF THEIR PANELS IS BETTER THAN ANY 50 YEAR OLD TRUCK THAT I'D PULL OUT OF A FIELD. PLUS WITH THE NUMBER OF MODIFICATIONS I'VE GOT

PLANNED FOR THIS RIG, IT WOULD BE A SHAME TO CUT UP AN ORIGINAL 1966 BRONCO. NOW WHAT MODIFICATIONS? HOW DOES THIS LIST GRAB YOU, FULL TUBE CHASSIS, 40 INCH TALL TIRES, TROPHY TRUCK INSPIRED AXLES, A COYOTE POWER PLANT, INDEPENDENT FRONT SUSPENSION, AND TRAILING ARMS IN THE REAR.

BASICALLY A FULL BLOWN ULTRA FOUR RACE CAR ALL WRAPPED INSIDE CLASSIC BRONCO SHEET METAL. TO DETERMINE THE SIZE OF THE CHASSIS I'M GONNA START BY ASSEMBLING THE LMC SHEET METAL PANELS. IF I WAS RESTORING A BRONCO, LMC HAS ALL THE PARTS THAT I WOULD NEED, ALL LOCATED IN THEIR 300,000 SQUARE FOOT WAREHOUSE. BUT ALL I NEED ARE THE PANELS NEEDED TO CREATE THE LOOK OF A CLASSIC BRONCO, TWO FRONT FENDERS, TWO DOORS, REAR QUARTER PANELS, WINDSHIELD FRAME, HOOD, AND THE ICONIC BRONCO GRILL. FOR A TRADITIONAL INSTALLATION THESE PARTS WOULD BE READY TO BOLT ON AND PREP FOR PAINT. BUT SINCE THE XTREME BRONCO WILL BE HIGHLY MODIFIED, I NEED TO MAKE SOME CHANGES. IT STARTS BY NARROWING THE FRONT GRILL ASSEMBLY. ON A DEDICATED OFF ROAD RIG IT IS VERY COMMON TO NARROW THE FRONT END OF THE BODY TO PROVIDE ADDITIONAL CLEARANCE FOR THE FRONT TIRES. BUT IF YOU'RE BUILDING A HIGH END RIG, A LITTLE EXTRA EFFORT CAN MAKE ALL THE DIFFERENCE. WITH THE LOGO REMOVED FROM THE GRILL, IT IS MARKED AND CUT IN HALF. WITH THE TWO SIDES ALIGNED, THE GRILL IS TIG WELDED BACK TOGETHER USING A ONE SIXTEENTHS INCH TUNGSTEN AND ZEROTHREEZERO MIG WIRE AS FILLER MATERIAL. THE FORD LOGO IS THEN CUT DOWN TO FIT OUR NEW NARROWED GRILL. IT IS THEN WELDED BACK TOGETHER ON THE BENCH.

AND FINALLY PLACED INSIDE OUR NEW NARROWED GRILL.

WITH A NARROWED FRONT END, THE HOOD WILL NEED TO BE PIE CUT TO MATCH UP WITH THE WINDSHIELD FRAME

AND GRILL CORRECTLY. USING MASKING TAPE CREATES A STRAIGHT LINE THAT IS EASY TO SEE WHILE CUTTING.

[ SAW SPINNING ]

(IAN)>> NOW THE WHOLE POINT OF WHAT WE'RE DOING RIGHT NOW IS BASICALLY JUST TO MOCK THE ENTIRE FRONT END INTO PLACE, JUST TO GET AN IDEA OF WHERE THE TUBE STRUCTURE IS GONNA LIE. I OBVIOUSLY NEED TO TRIM THIS HOOD A LITTLE BIT MORE TO GIVE ME SOME MORE CLEARANCE ALONG THE GRILL AS WELL AS TO LINE THE FENDER UP A LITTLE

BIT BETTER WITH IT. IF WE WERE JUST BUILDING A TUBE BUGGY I WOULDN'T HAVE TO DO ANY OF THIS.

BUT BECAUSE I'M BUILDING THE TUBE BUGGY AROUND A SPECIFIC BODY, IN THIS CASE THIS '66 BRONCO, I NEED TO GET EVERYTHING PUT INTO PLACE JUST SO I CAN FIGURE OUT WHERE THE TUBING CAN GO.

(ANNOUNCER)>> UP NEXT, LAY IN THE FOUNDATION FOR PROJECT BUCKIN' BRONCO'S TUBE CHASSIS.

(IAN)>> WE ARE MOCKING UP THE BODY PANELS FOR OUR FIRST EVER BRONCO PROJECT IN THE XOR SHOP, USING ALL NEW SHEET METAL FROM LMC TRUCK. WITH THE FRONT END AND THE TWO DOORS MOCKED INTO PLACE I NOW HAVE A GENERAL AREA THAT I HAVE TO FIT MY TUBE CHASSIS INSIDE OF. THERE'S REALLY NO POINT IN MOCKING UP OUR REAR

QUARTER PANELS BECAUSE ALL THE TUBING BACK HERE WILL BE AT THE BELT LINE OR ABOVE TO GIVE THE REAR AXLE ROOM TO MOVE.

I NEED TO START ON THE BASIC FLOOR, OR BELLY PAN, OF OUR TUBE CHASSIS FOR THIS RIG. NOW I KNOW ONCE EVERYTHING IS IN PLACE THAT I CAN COME BACK 48 INCHES, ALMOST FOUR FEET, AND THE BUGGY WILL BE FIVE FEET WIDE AT THE BELLY PAN. SO WITH THOSE TWO MEASUREMENTS IT'S TIME TO GO TO THE FRAME TABLE.

BASED ON THESE DIMENSIONS I NEED TO SPREAD THE PLATES ON THE STRONG HAND TOOLS WELDING TABLE BY ALTERNATING EACH PLATE TO EITHER SIDE. I'M PREPPING THEM FOR SOME FAB WORK BY CLEANING THE TABLE WITH SOME WD 40 AND SCOTCHBRITE PADS. ONCE LEVEL WE ARE READY FOR TUBE. INCH AND THREE QUARTER DOM IS CUT, NOTCHED, AND SQUARED UP ON THE TABLE TO CREATE THE START OF OUR CHASSIS.

BY MEASURING CORNER TO CORNER ON OUR BELLY PAN WE ENSURE THAT IT IS PERFECTLY SQUARE BEFORE TACKING EACH CORNER. FLOOR SPREADERS ARE THEN ADDED THAT WILL EVENTUALLY

BE THE MOUNTING POINTS FOR OUR ENGINE AND TRANSMISSION. THE STARTING POINT FOR THIS CHASSIS IS VERY DIFFERENT THAN ANY OTHER RIG WE'VE BUILT HERE AT THE XTREME SHOP. IF THIS WAS A SOLID AXLE CAR WE'D START WITH TWO FRAME RAILS, KINDA LIKE WE DID WITH OUR ROCK BOUNCER. BUT BECAUSE THIS VEHICLE IS GONNA BE AN INDEPENDENT FRONT SUSPENSION RIG, WE START WITH BASICALLY A COMPLETE BELLY PAN, AND THIS IS THE

BOTTOM OF THE CHASSIS. NOW THE WAY IT'S LAID OUT IS PRETTY EASY TO FIGURE OUT ONCE YOU UNDERSTAND WHERE WE ARE. THIS IS THE PASSENGER SIDE RUB RAIL OF THE RIG, AND THIS IS THE DRIVER'S SIDE. THE DRIVER WILL SIT OVER HERE, PASSENGER OVER HERE. THIS REAR TUBE IS THE MOUNTING POINT FOR ALL OF OUR REAR SUSPENSION PICK UP POINTS. OUR TRAILING ARMS WILL GO BACK HERE, AND THE INDEPENDENT FRONT SUSPENSION SUBFRAME WILL GO TOWARDS THE FRONT. NOW THE REASON WE DO A BELLY PAN INSTEAD OF FRAME RAILS IS BECAUSE THE DRIVETRAIN CAN SIT UP A LITTLE BIT HIGHER BECAUSE THE FRONT AXLE DOESN'T NEED TO MOVE UP AND DOWN LIKE IT DOES IN A SOLID AXLE. IT IS FIXED IN PLACE, AND ONLY THE "A" ARMS GO UP AND DOWN WITH THE TIRES. SO WE CAN BUILD A NICE, SMOOTH, FLAT BELLY PAN. THE NEXT STEP IN THIS PROCESS IS TO GO OVER TO OUR SHEET METAL MOCK UP, PULL A FEW MORE MEASUREMENTS. I NEED TO DETERMINE THE HEIGHT OF THE BELT LINE AS WELL AS THE OVERALL HEIGHT OF OUR MAIN HOOP, AND THEN

START BENDING UP SOME KICKERS.

WITH MEASUREMENTS IN HAND, I DRAW UP THE PASSENGER

COMPARTMENT OF THE BRONCO USING BEND TECH PRO. THE "B" PILLARS WILL BE FIRST. [ SAW CUTTING ]

(IAN)>> AND ONCE BENT USING THE EDWARDS MANUFACTURING TUBING BENDER, THEY ARE NOTCHED AND DROPPED ONTO THE BELLY PAN.

[ DRILL SPINNING ]

(IAN)>> THE "A" PILLAR BARS ARE THEN BENT AND DROPPED INTO PLACE.

THEN IT'S JUST A MATTER OF CREATING THE MAIN HOOP "X"...

...AND DOOR BARS. [ WELDER CRACKLING ]

(IAN)>> THEN WE'LL TACK IN PLACE THE VENT WINDOW SUPPORT TUBES ALONG WITH THE WINDSHIELD BAR

AND TABS TO MOUNT THE

WINDSHIELD FRAME. AND WITH THAT THE BEGINNING OF AN ALL TUBE BRONCO IS WELL UNDERWAY.

(ANNOUNCER)>> COMING UP, FROM DIALING IN THE CORRECT GAS PRESSURES TO ESSENTIAL SAFETY PRECAUTIONS, WE'LL COVER ALL THE BASES OF OXY FUEL TORCH SETUP.

(ANNOUNCER)>> WELDING TECH IS FUELED BY ESAB, MAKER OF THE ALL NEW REBEL, AND OFFICIAL WELDING AND CUTTING SUPPLIER OF XTREME OFF ROAD.

(IAN)>> IT IS A UNIVERSAL TRUTH IN THE WORLD OF OFF ROAD FABRICATION THAT BEFORE YOU CAN WELD SOMETHING ONTO YOUR RIG YOU FIRST HAVE

TO TACK INTO PLACE.

AND BEFORE YOU CAN TACK SOMETHING ONTO YOUR PROJECT, WELL, YOU HAVE TO CUT IT OUT FROM SOME TYPE OF MATERIAL LIKE STEEL. SO FOR TODAY'S WELDING TIP WE'RE GONNA START BY HAVING A LOOK AT SOME MATERIAL CUTTING PROCESSES.

WE'RE GONNA START WITH POSSIBLY THE MOST VERSATILE AND ONE OF THE OLDEST FORMS OF MATERIAL CUTTING, AND THAT IS THE OXY FUEL TORCH. THE NAME OXY FUEL BASICALLY DESCRIBES THE ENTIRE PACKAGE. WE HAVE TWO COMPRESSED GAS CYLINDERS. ONE IS FULLY OF OXYGEN, THE OTHER IS FULL OF A FUEL. WE MIX THESE TWO GASES TOGETHER AT THE TORCH

HANDLE TO CREATE A SMALL FLAME. THAT FLAME WILL HEAT UP OUR BASE MATERIAL TO WHAT'S CALLED THE KINDLING POINT, AND THEN A HIGH PRESSURE BURST OF OXYGEN BLOWS THROUGH THE MATERIAL. THAT IS WHAT CREATES THE CUT. WHEN IT'S TIME FOR YOU TO SETUP YOUR OWN FUEL PACKAGE YOU REALLY ONLY HAVE ONE OPTION TO CHOOSE, AND THAT IS WHAT TYPE OF FUEL GAS ARE YOU GONNA USE. I USE ACETYLENE BECAUSE IT'S WHAT I'M MOST COMFORTABLE WITH, BUT THERE ARE OTHER OPTIONS OUT THERE. YOU CAN USE MAPP GAS, HYDROGEN PROPANE, EVEN NATURAL GAS. THE BEST THING TO DO IS TALK TO YOUR LOCAL WELDING SUPPLIER. FIND OUT WHAT FUEL IS GONNA BE READILY AVAILABLE IN YOUR AREA.

YOU'LL PROBABLY END UP WITH ONLY TWO CHOICES, ACETYLENE OR MAPP GAS. NEXT YOU WILL NEED AN OXY FUEL TORCH SET, LIKE THIS VICTOR 250 SET FROM ESAB. IT COMES WITH BOTH REGULATORS FOR OXYGEN AND THE FUEL SOURCE, HOSES TO CONNECT THE REGULATORS TO THE TORCH, A TORCH BODY, A GENERAL CUTTING HEAD, AND OFTEN A WELDING NOZZLE, EYE PROTECTION, AND AN IGNITOR. HOOKING EVERYTHING UP IS VERY STRAIGHT FORWARD. THE REGULATORS ARE DESIGNED TO ONLY FIT THE TANK THEY ARE MADE FOR, AND THE HOSES ARE EASILY IDENTIFIABLE BY THE COLOR, GREEN FOR OXYGEN AND RED FOR FUEL. ONCE EVERYTHING IS HOOKED UP YOU MUST CHECK FOR

LEAKS AT ALL CONNECTIONS USING SOAPY WATER.

IF THE JOINT IS BUBBLING, IT IS LEAKING, TIGHTEN IT UP. CHARTS FOR GAS PRESSURE CAN BE EASILY FOUND ONLINE OR IN RESEARCH MANUALS. AND REMEMBER, THIS IS FLOW PRESSURE, NOT STATIC PRESSURE. SO AFTER OPENING THE VALVES ON THE TANKS, OPEN THE FUEL VALVE AT THE TORCH BUT DO NOT IGNITE THE GAS. THEN ADJUST THE PRESSURE AT THE REGULATOR AND CLOSE

THE FUEL VALVE. THEN DO THE SAME FOR THE OXYGEN REGULATOR. WE'RE NOW READY TO LIGHT THE TORCH. WITH THE FUEL VALVE SLIGHTLY OPEN, WE SPARK AT THE TIP. WE ADJUST THE FUEL VALVE UNTIL THERE IS NO SOOT, OR BLACK SMOKE, COMING OFF OF THE FLAME. THEN IT'S TIME TO ADD THE OXYGEN. WE'RE LOOKING FOR WHAT'S CALLED A NEUTRAL FLAME, WHICH IS A LONG SINGLE COLORED FLAME WITH BRIGHT BLUE CONES AT THE TIP. IF THE FLAME IS TURBULENT AT THE END WE

NEED TO ADD MORE FUEL.

AND IF THERE IS A LONG BRIGHT CONE IN THE MIDDLE OF THE FLAME WE NEED TO ADD MORE OXYGEN. ONCE A NEUTRAL FLAME IS REACHED, TEST THE CUTTING LEVER, AND THEN WE'RE READY TO CUT. WITH THE TORCH HELD AT A SLIGHT ANGLE, THE BASE MATERIAL IS HEATED UNTIL WE SEE THE KINDLING POINT. THIS IS THE LOWEST TEMPERATURE WHERE THE CARBON BASED STEEL BEGINS TO BURN. THE CUTTING LEVER IS THEN DEPRESSED AND THE BUST OF OXYGEN CREATES THE CUT. WHILE YOU'RE CUTTING THE HEAT IN THE MATERIAL WILL HELP MOVE THE CUT ALONG. SO PLAY CLOSE ATTENTION TO YOUR TRAVEL SPEED AND TORCH ANGLE WHILE YOU CUT. WHEN FINISHED CUTTING TURN OFF THE OXYGEN AND TURN OFF THE ACETYLENE. THEN CLOSE THE VALVES ON THE CYLINDERS AND BLEED THE LINES. THERE ARE SOME SPECIFIC SAFETY CONCERNS WHEN USING AN OXY FUEL CUTTING RIG. YOU NEED TO MAKE SURE THAT YOU HAVE PROPER PERSONAL PROTECTIVE EQUIPMENT IN PLACE. THINK LEATHER GLOVES, LONG SLEEVE SHIRT, PANTS, AND LEATHER BOOTS. THERE'S ALWAYS A CHANCE OF SLAG OR BLOW BACK COMING OFF THE WORK PIECE, AND THAT'S JUST PART OF USING

A PRESSURIZED GAS CUTTING SYSTEM. YOU'LL ALSO MAY HAVE NOTICED THAT I ONLY OPENED THE FUEL CYLINDER A QUARTER OF A TURN WHEN THE TORCH WAS IN USE. THAT WAY IF ANYTHING EVER HAPPENS TO THE TORCH AND I NEED TO EXTINGUISH THE FLAME QUICKLY, ALL I HAVE

TO DO IS GET BACK TO THE CYLINDER AND SHUT DOWN THAT VALVE. IT'S GOOD PRACTICE TO ONLY OPEN THE FUEL VALVE A QUARTER OF A TURN AT ALL TIMES.

YOU ALSO NEED TO PAY VERY CLOSE ATTENTION TO WHERE THE HOSES ARE. THERE'S ACETYLENE AND OXYGEN FLOWING THROUGH HERE. YOU NEED TO MAKE SURE THAT NO SLAG OR POSSIBLE SPARKS FROM YOUR WORK PIECE ARE CONTACTING THIS HOSE. NOW THERE'S NO QUESTION THAT OXY FUEL IS NOT A VERY HIGH TECH OPTION WHEN IT COMES TO CUTTING, BUT CONSIDERING ITS VERSATILITY, CAN CUT MANY DIFFERENT TYPES OF MATERIAL, AND THE FACT THAT IT'S 100 PERCENT PORTABLE IN THE SHOP AND DOESN'T REQUIRE ELECTRICITY, IT'S EASY TO SEE WHY IT'S STILL A POPULAR OPTION.

(ANNOUNCER)>> UP NEXT, PROJECT DISCOUNT DATSUN GETS SOME SERIOUSLY LOW GEARS DESIGNED FOR HEAVY DUTY HILL CLIMBING.

(IAN)>> WE'RE GONNA FINISH OFF TODAY BY TAKING THE FIRST STEP THAT'S NEEDED TO CONVERT OUR PROJECT

DISCOUNT DATSUN OVER FROM A LOWERED TWO WHEEL DRIVE MINI TRUCK INTO A FULL BLOWN FOUR WHEEL DRIVE. NOW THAT MEANS SOME TYPE OF TRANSFER CASE. THERE'S A COUPLE OF DIFFERENT OPTIONS. I COULD DIG THROUGH A JUNKYARD AND FIND SOME TYPE OF NISSAN TRANSMISSION AND TRANSFER CASE THAT MIGHT BOLT UP BEHIND OUR DIESEL ENGINE AND WOULD GIVE US THE FOUR WHEEL DRIVE THAT WE NEED, BUT THERE'S NOT GONNA BE A LOT OF AFTERMARKET SUPPORT FOR THAT. I COULD SPEND A LOT OF MONEY ON AN ADAPTER AND ADAPT A MORE COMMON TRANSMISSION OR TRANSFER

CASE INTO PLACE, OR I CAN USE A DIVORCED TRANSFER CASE. AND WHEN YOU'RE WORKING ON A BUDGET, THE BEST DIVORCED TRANSFER CASE TO USE IS THIS BAD BOY RIGHT HERE. THIS IS A SUZUKI SAMURAI DIVORCED TRANSFER CASE. NOW THE NICE THING ABOUT IT IS IT'S INCREDIBLY SMALL. THE INPUT WILL BE AT THE FRONT, AND THAT WILL BE WHAT COMES OUT OF OUR STOCK TWO WHEEL DRIVE TRANSMISSION. AND THEN WE'LL HAVE AN OUTPUT FOR THE REAR AXLE AND AN OUTPUT FOR THE FRONT.

THE NICE THING IS THERE'S LOTS OF AFTERMARKET SUPPORT FOR THIS, AND CONSIDERING THE LOW POWER THAT'S COMING OUT OF THAT DIESEL, I NEED ALL THE HELP I CAN GET, AND THAT HELP COMES WITH SIX AND A HALF TO ONE GEARS INSIDE THIS CASE. FOR THIS TRANSFER CASE I'M USING A GEAR SET FROM TRAIL GEAR OFF ROAD SUPPLY. IT INCLUDES NEW LOW RANGE GEARS, A NEW INPUT SHAFT, COUNTER SHAFT, ALL THE REQUIRED GASKETS AND SEALS, AND NEW BEARINGS TO UPGRADE THE LITTLE ZUK CASE TO THE DEEPER SIX POINT FIVE TO ONE LOW RANGE RATIO. THE FIRST STEP IS TO REMOVE THE FRONT HOUSING FROM THE CASE AND SPLIT THE CENTER SECTION. REMOVE THE COUNTER GEAR FROM THE REAR HOUSING ALONG WITH THE INPUT GEAR, SHIFT FORK, AND OUTPUT GEAR. THE GEARS ARE REMOVED FROM THE SHAFT. WITH THE SHAFT EMPTY THE CAGE BEARINGS ARE REINSTALLED AND LUBED WITH GREASE.

THE NEW LOW SPEED GEAR IS INSTALLED ONTO THE SHAFT AND THE SHAFT IS REASSEMBLED.

YOU WILL NEED TO CLEARANCE THE CASE FOR THE LARGER DIAMETER OF THE LOW RANGE GEARS.

WITH THE COUNTER SHAFT TEMPORARILY IN PLACE, MARK THE HOUSING AND GRIND WHERE NEEDED. CLEAN THE CASE HALVES AFTER GRINDING AND INSTALL THE NEW INPUT AND OUTPUT SHAFT SEALS. INSTALL THE OUTPUT SHAFT, FOLLOWED BY THE COUNTER GEAR ASSEMBLY.

GREASE THE COUNTER SHAFT BEARINGS, AND THEN INSTALL THE INPUT SHAFT. USE SOME BEARING GREASE TO HOLD THE COUNTER SHAFT SHIM IN PLACE ON THE REAR HOUSING, AND REASSEMBLE THE TWO TRANSFER CASE HALVES, FOLLOWED BY THE FRONT HOUSING. AND WITH THIS JOB COMPLETE WE NOW HAVE A TRANSFER CASE THAT WILL BASICALLY MULTIPLY OUR ENGINE'S OUTPUT BY SIX AND A HALF. NOW WE NEED THAT TORQUE MULTIPLICATION TO TAKE ADVANTAGE OF THE TIRES THAT I PLAN TO INSTALL

ON DISCOUNT DATSUN. HOW ARE WE DOING ON OUR BUDGET? WELL THE CASE ITSELF IT TOOK ME A WHILE TO FIND A GOOD ONE THAT WAS READY TO REBUILD. IT COST ME JUST OVER $200 DOLLARS. THE GEARS, WELL THEY'RE JUST OVER $500. SO WE'RE PROBABLY GONNA SAY $800 DOLLARS TOTAL TO REBUILD THIS CASE, BUT THE BENEFIT OF HAVING THIS DIVORCED CASE AND NOT HAVING TO MAKE A BUNCH OF

CHANGES TO THE TRUCK IS WELL WORTH THAT INVESTMENT.