Crawler Hauler: 4 Link & Airbags

(ANNOUNCER)>> TODAY ON XTREME OFF ROAD WE TAKE OUR CRAWLER HAULER TO THE NEXT LEVEL WITH A TRANSFER CASE OVERHAUL AND A CUSTOM FOUR LINK IN THE REAR

COMPLETE WITH AIR BAGS. PLUS WE'LL SHOW YOU HOW TO GET CLEAN, STRONG WELDS WITH THE CORRECT TORCH POSITION.

(IAN)>> TODAY IN THE XTREME OFF ROAD SHOP WE'RE GONNA KICK THINGS OFF WITH SOME HARDCORE CUSTOM FABRICATION ON OUR CRAWLER HAULER PROJECT. NOW IF YOU GUYS REMEMBER, WHEN I FINISHED BUILDING THE STEEL BED ON THE BACK OF THIS RIG I WASN'T REALLY HAPPY WITH THE LOCATION OF THE REAR AXLE. WELL TODAY THAT IS THE FIRST THING THAT WE'RE GONNA TAKE CARE OF. BUT BEFORE I START CUTTING AND GRINDING, LETS TAKE A LOOK BACK AT THIS TRUCK'S TRANSFORMATION. IT STARTED WITH SOME INSPIRATION, THE DAKAR RALLY TFOUR, TFIVE SUPPORT TRUCKS THAT NOT ONLY TAKE CARE OF THE RACE TEAMS, BUT ALSO COMPETE IN THE RACE. AND AFTER PICKING UP A 1997 ISUZU NPR FOR LESS THAN $1,000, OUR FIRST STEP WAS TO CONVERT IT TO FOUR WHEEL DRIVE WITH SOME SUPER DUTY AXLES. THEN IT WAS OFF ON A TRIP TO OHIO, TO GRAB A SIX SPEED CUMMINS FOR OUR POWER PLANT. AND AFTER IT WAS MOUNTED BETWEEN THE FRAME RAILS, AN ALLISON 1,000 TRANSMISSION WAS INSTALLED BEHIND IT. TO CARRY OUR RIG WE NEEDED A FLAT BED.

AND AFTER A PILE OF CUTTING AND WELDING WE HAD A 14 FOOT LONG 102 INCH WIDE BED ON THE BACK OF OUR TRUCK. NOW WE DIDN'T WELD THE TREAD PLATES IN PLACE SO WE COULD

FINISH UP JOBS JUST LIKE THIS. IN ORDER TO MOVE OUR REAR AXLE ALL THE STOCK

SUSPENSION IS GONNA HAVE TO BE REMOVED.

THERE WE GO! [ air chisel vibrating ] I'M GONNA REPLACE THE REAR LEAF SPRING SUSPENSION ON THE CRAWLER HAULER WITH A CUSTOM FOUR LINK SUSPENSION SET UP. NOW I'LL BUILD IT USING BRACKETS, TABS, AND ROD ENDS THAT WE GOT FROM RUSTY'S OFF ROAD.

I CHOSE THEIR LARGE FORGED ROD END WITH RUBBER BUSHING INSERT FOR A COUPLE OF DIFFERENT REASONS. IT'LL HELP LIMIT THE VIBRATION THAT YOU FEEL IN THE TRUCK WHEN YOU'RE DRIVING DOWN THE ROAD, AND THE RUBBER BUSHING WILL JUST HELP LOCK THE AXLE AND KEEP IT FROM ARTICULATING. BECAUSE REMEMBER, WE'RE BUILDING A HAULER, NOT AN ACTUAL ROCK CRAWLER. NOW ALL THE RUSTY'S BRACKETS AND TABS ARE LASER CUT AND CNC BENT, AND THESE ONES ARE DESIGNED TO KEY RIGHT OFF OF OUR FRAME RAIL, HELP THINGS LINE UP. NOW I'M SURE A LOT OF YOU GUYS ARE WONDERING, WELL WHAT ARE YOU GONNA DO FOR A SPRING NOW THAT THE LEAF SPRINGS ARE GONE? YOU DON'T WANT TO PUT A COIL SPRING BACK THERE, AND YOU'RE RIGHT. THAT'S THE COOL PART OF THE SUSPENSION SYSTEM.

I'M GONNA INSTALL SOME OF THESE FIRESTONE AIR BAGS. NOW THESE ARE DESIGNED TO BE USED IN HEAVY TRUCK APPLICATION, AND EACH ONE CAN HOLD UP, WELL OVER 4,600

POUNDS WITH 90 PSI WORTH OF AIR IN IT. THE NICE THING IS WE'LL BE ABLE TO ADJUST THE RIDE HEIGHT OF THE TRUCK WHETHER IT'S LOADED OR UNLOADED, AND WHEN WE GET TO THE TRAIL WE CAN SIMPLY DUMP THE AIR OUT OF THE BAGS AND IT'LL DROP THE BACK THE TRUCK DOWN, MAKE LOADING AND UNLOADED A LOT EASIER. TO BUILD OUR CUSTOM SUSPENSION WE NEED TO START WITH A BARE FRAME RAIL. THEN THE TIRES ARE BOLTED ONTO THE AXLE, AND IT'S SQUARED UNDERNEATH THE CHASSIS.

TO GET PROPER FOUR LINK GEOMETRY, A DROP CROSS MEMBER WILL NEED TO BE BUILT FROM SOME QUARTER INCH WALL TWO BY THREE STEEL.

THE RUSTY'S OFF ROAD BRACKETS ARE TACKED INTO PLACE.

AND OUR NEW DROP CROSS MEMBER IS ATTACHED TO THE FRAME RAIL.

USING AN EXISTING BRACKET AS A GUIDE, AXLE MOUNTS ARE CUT FROM THREE SIXTEENTHS INCH PLATE.

THEN A TRACK BAR IS BUILT FROM SOME HALF INCH WALLED SEAMLESS TUBING.

AND WITH THE AXLE END INSTALLED ON THE TRUCK, WE CAN MARK THE LOCATION FOR THE FRAME END, NOTCH THE TUBE, AND WELDED IT ALL TOGETHER.

OUR SUSPENSION IS THEN CYCLED TO CHECK FOR CLEARANCE ISSUES, AND WE'VE GOT SOME.

(ANNOUNCER)>> UP NEXT, SOMETIMES THE BEST SOLUTION IS A LITTLE SURGERY WITH THE CUTTING TORCH. PLUS HOW TO MAKE YOUR BUGGY'S PANELS FIT PERFECTLY!

(IAN)>> WHEN YOU MAKE A MAJOR CHANGE HALF WAY THROUGH A PROJECT LIKE THIS, YOU HAVE TO BE READY FOR SOME ISSUES TO CROP UP. I'VE PUSHED THIS AXLE BACK A FULL 12 INCHES FROM WHERE IT WAS SITTING BEFORE, AND YOU CAN TELL THAT BECAUSE THE FACTORY BUMP STOP IS STILL HERE ON THE FRAME. NOW THIS HAS GIVEN ME THE WHEEL BASE THAT I WANT BUT BECAUSE WE'RE ADDING AIR RIDE TO THE BACK OF THIS TRUCK AND ALLOWING THE AXLE TO MOVE A LOT MORE, A FEW MORE PROBLEMS CROPPED UP. THE FIRST ONE IS THE TIRES. THEY'RE HITTING RIGHT ON THE EDGE OF OUR FLAT BED AS THE SUSPENSION COMPRESSES. AND INSIDE THE PAN HARD BAR IS CONTACTING THE TRUCK'S ORIGINAL FRAME. NOW I HAD TO PUT A BEND IN THE PAN HARD BAR TO CLEAR THE REAR DIFF AND THAT HAS TO STAY THERE. SO TO MAKE ROOM FOR IT I'LL JUST HAVE TO CLEARANCE THE FRAME. OUT HERE IS A BIGGER PROBLEM. I WANT THIS TIRE TO BASICALLY TRAVEL ALL THE WAY UP PAST THE TOP OF THE FLAT BED. THAT WAY THE BACK OF OUR TRUCK WILL BE ALMOST SITTING RIGHT ON THE GROUND WHEN WE DUMP ALL OF THE AIR OUT OF THE SUSPENSION AND IT'LL NEVER NEED RAMPS TO LOAD BUGGIES ONTO THE BACK OF THE TRUCK. BUT IN ORDER FOR THAT TO HAPPEN I'LL HAVE TO CUT A CHUNK OF THIS FLAT BED OUT AND BUILD A WHEEL WELL. IT'S GONNA LOOK A LITTLE BIT DIFFERENT BUT I'LL BE WELL WORTH BEING ABLE TO LAY THIS TRUCK OUT TO LOAD AND UNLOAD.

THE TRUCK'S FRAME AND THE FLAT BED ARE CLEARANCED USING THE PLASMA CUTTER.

AND ONCE FINISHED, THE SUSPENSION IS CYCLED AGAIN. THIS TIME EVERYTHING'S GOOD!

WITH EVERYTHING CLEAR, THE LINK MOUNTS ARE STRENGTHENED USING SOME FILLER PIECES AND ANGLED GUSSETS.

THEN THE UPPER AND LOWER BAG MOUNTS ARE BUILT.

AND THE TIRES ARE REINSTALLED.

THE DROPPED CROSS MEMBER NEEDS THIS TWO BY TWO QUARTER INCH WALL ANGLE BRACE FOR STRENGTH. THEN I WILL TEMPORARILY PLUMB OUR AIR BAGS TO SEE HOW FAR THIS FLAT BED DROPS.

WITH OUR REAR SUSPENSION FINISHED UP, THE LAST PIECE

OF OUR DRIVETRAIN WE NEED TO TAKE CARE OF IS THE TRANSFER CASE. NOW REMEMBER, WE'RE CONVERTING THIS TRUCK OVER TO FOUR WHEEL DRIVE, SO WE HAVE TO INSTALL A TRANSFER CASE BEHIND OUR ALLISON 1,000 TRANSMISSION. AND I SEARCHED HIGH AND LOW FOR A GOOD DEAL ON A USED CASE AT A BUNCH OF DIFFERENT JUNKYARDS, AND I COULDN'T FIND ONE.

AND FOR JUST A FEW DOLLARS MORE I WAS ABLE TO PICK UP THIS FULLY REBUILT CASE FROM THE GUYS AT MONSTER TRANSMISSION. NOW NORMALLY WHEN WE'RE TALKING WITH MONSTER

TRANSMISSION, WE'RE GETTING TRANSMISSION REBUILD KITS, OR COMPLETE TRANSMISSIONS, BUT THEY HAVE A FULL LINE OF FULLY REBUILT AND UPGRADED TRANSFER CASES AS WELL. THERE'S ONLY ONE PROBLEM. THIS CASE IS OUT OF A 2007 CHEVY ONE TON TRUCK, AND THAT TRUCK HAS A SLIP YOKE IN THE FRONT TRANSFER CASE OUTPUT. THAT'S BECAUSE THAT TRUCK IS IFS. ON A SOLID AXLE TRUCK LIKE WE HAVE IN OUR ISUZU, YOU NEED TO HAVE A FIXED YOKE ON THAT OUTPUT. NOW THAT'S NOT A BIG DEAL. NORTHWEST FAB WORKS MAKES A KIT TO CONVERT THIS TRANSFER CASE OVER TO THE FIXED YOKE STYLE. THAT WAY THE DRIVESHAFT WILL BE SECURED AT THE TRANSFER CASE AND AT THE AXLE, AND THE SLIP WILL BE IN THE DRIVESHAFT. NOW WE DON'T HAVE TO WORRY ABOUT THE SLIP YOKE BECOMING DISENGAGED FROM THE TRANSFER CASE AS THE AXLE FLEXES. THE FIRST STEP IS TO DISCONNECT THE OUTPUT SHAFT SNAP RING AND REMOVE ALL OF THE PERIMETER BOLTS FROM THE CASE.

THEN THE TRANSFER CASE IS SPLIT. ONCE INSIDE THE MAIN SHAFT IS DISASSEMBLED TO REMOVE THE CHAIN. AND WITH THE OLD FRONT OUTPUT SHAFT REMOVED, THE NEW NORTHWEST FAB SHAFT IS INSTALLED.

THE CASE IS THEN REASSEMBLED AND THE HOUSING IS SEALED WITH RTV.

AND THEN THE PERIMETER BOLTS ARE REINSTALLED. [ air wrench spinning ]

(ANNOUNCER)>> COMING UP, THERE ARE MANY KINDS OF

WELDING JOINTS, AND EACH OF THEM DEMANDS THE RIGHT TORCH POSITION.

(ANNOUNCER)>> NOW SHOP TIPS FOR STRONGER, SAFER WELDS.

(IAN)>> TODAY WE'RE GONNA BE TALKING ABOUT TORCH POSITION WHEN MIG WELDING. NOW WHEN WE'RE BUILDING THESE OFF ROAD CARS, THERE'S REALLY THREE MAIN TYPES OF JOINTS THAT YOU'RE GONNA BE DEALING WITH WHETHER YOU'RE WELDING FLAT PLATE OR TUBING. THOSE THREE JOINTS ARE AN INSIDE AND AN OUTSIDE CORNER JOINT, A BUTT WELD JOINT, AS WELL AS A TTYPE JOINT WHERE THE FLAT PLATE MEETS A PIECE OF EDGE MATERIAL. NOW HOW YOU HOLD THE TORCH FOR EACH ONE OF THESE JOINTS IS DIFFERENT. IT WILL NOT ONLY GIVE YOU A BETTER LOOKING WELD, BUT WILL ALSO IMPROVE THE QUALITY AND MAKE IT STRONGER. THE HEAT FROM THE WELD WILL ALWAYS TRANSFER INTO THE EDGE OF A PIECE OF STEEL A LOT FASTER THAN

IT WILL INTO THE FACE. SO WHEN WELDING A TJOINT LIKE THIS, YOU NEED TO SPEND MORE TIME WITH THE TORCH ON THE FACE MATERIAL AND THEN

BRING IT UP QUICKLY INTO THE EDGE AND RIGHT BACK DOWN. IF YOU WERE COUNTING BEATS IN YOUR HEAD, YOU WOULD PROBABLY SPEND TWO BEATS ON THE BOTTOM MATERIAL AND A SINGLE BEAT UP ON THE EDGE. BASICALLY MOVING THE TORCH UP ONTO THE FACE AND THEN QUICKLY BACK DOWN, AND THEN BACK UP AGAIN, AND THEN BACK

DOWN QUICKLY UNTIL YOU FINISH THE ENTIRE BEAD. ON A BUTT JOINT THE HEAT SHOULD TRANSFER INTO BOTH PIECES OF STEEL EQUALLY. SO YOU JUST WANT TO MAKE SURE THAT YOUR TORCH STAYS CENTERED ACROSS THE JOINT AND YOU MOVE IT BACK AND FORTH AT A SMOOTH PACE PUTTING THE SAME AMOUNT OF HEAT INTO BOTH SIDES OF THE JOINT. AN OUTSIDE CORNER JOINT IS SIMILAR TO A BUTT JOINT, BUT SETUP IS MORE IMPORTANT. YOU CAN SEE THAT WE HAVE A SLIGHT OVERLAP ON EACH PIECE, GIVING US A TROUGH TO LAY THE WELD IN.

YOU DON'T WANT TO CARRY THE TORCH OVER THE TOP OF THE MATERIAL INTO THE FACE. YOU SIMPLY WANT TO MOVE IT DOWN THE TROUGH AT AN EQUAL SPEED, DEPOSITING WELDS AS YOU GO. NOW THE INSIDE CORNER JOINT ALSO HAS A SPECIFIC TORCH POSITION BECAUSE IT MAY LOOK LIKE A TWELD, BUT IT'S NOT. EVEN THOUGH THE INSIDE CORNER JOINT LOOKS A LOT LIKE A TJOINT, YOU HAVE TO TREAT IT MORE LIKE A BUTT JOINT BECAUSE YOU HAVE TWO PIECES OF EDGE MATERIAL. YOUR BASICALLY GONNA MOVE THE TORCH BACK AND FORTH EVENLY ACROSS THE TUBE AS YOU MOVE DOWN THE JOINT UNTIL YOU FINISH YOUR BEAD. NOW YOU'LL WANT TO PRACTICE EACH ONE OF THESE JOINTS MANY DIFFERENT TIMES. GO AHEAD AND CUT YOURSELF OUT SOME COUPONS OF STEEL OF DIFFERENT THICKNESSES SO YOU CAN JUST GET USED TO THAT

TORCH POSITION FOR WHETHER YOU'RE WELDING THICKER OR THINNER MATERIAL. PROBABLY THE MOST POPULAR JOINT YOU'RE GONNA WANT TO PRACTICE IS A TJOINT ON TUBING. BUILDING THESE OFF ROAD TRUCKS, THIS IS THE MOST COMMON JOINT THAT YOU'LL PROBABLY WELD. WE HAVE A PIECE OF COPED OR NOTCHED TUBING SADDLED OVER ANOTHER PIECE OF TUBING. IT'S KINDA LIKE A MODIFIED TJOINT. WE HAVE EDGE MATERIAL ALL THE WAY AROUND THE ONE PIECE OF TUBE, AND FACE MATERIAL MATCHING IT ALONG THE BOTTOM. NOW THERE IS ONE OTHER PRECAUTION THAT YOU HAVE TO MAKE WHEN YOU'RE WELDING THIS TYPE OF JOINT. YOU WANT TO PRACTICE WELDING THE ENTIRE TUBE JOINT IN A SINGLE PASS. THIS WILL NOT ONLY IMPROVE THE APPEARANCE OF THE WELD, BUT IT ELIMINATES ANY COLD STARTS, MAKING IT A LOT STRONGER.

(ANNOUNCER)>> UP NEXT, TO REALLY SHOW OFF YOUR BUGGY'S TUBE WORK GO FOR SOME INSET BODY PANELS.

(IAN)>> WE FINISHED UP THE MAJORITY OF THE CUSTOM

FABRICATION ON OUR ROCK BOUNCER PROJECT, BUT TODAY WE WANT TO DEAL WITH THE TABS THAT WE'LL NEED TO INSTALL ONTO THE CHASSIS TO ADD THE BODY PANELS. NOW FOR OUR BODY PANELS I'M GONNA BE USING TWO DIFFERENT TYPES OF MATERIAL. I'M GONNA USE SOME OF THIS 185 ALUMINUM AS WELL AS SOME 090 ALUMINUM SHEETS. TO ATTACH IT TO THE BUGGY I'M GOING TO NEED SOME BODY TABS. SO I PICKED UP A PILE OF THESE TABS

FROM TMR CUSTOMS.

BUT HOW WE ATTACH THESE TABS TO OUR CHASSIS CAN

DRASTICALLY CHANGE THE LOOK OF OUR PROJECT.

THESE TABS ARE DESIGNED TO WRAP AROUND THE OUTER EDGE OF THE TUBE AND BE WELDED IN PLACE, AND THAT'S GOOD BECAUSE IT MAKES THEM INCREDIBLY STRONG AND HELPS KEEP THE PANEL FROM PUSHING INSIDE THE CAR WHEN IT HITS A TRAIL OBSTACLE. THE PROBLEM IS IT MAKES THE PANEL PERFECTLY FLUSH WITH THE OUTER TUBE AND WILL BASICALLY COVER ALL THE TUBING ON THE SIDE OF OUR CHASSIS. WE DON'T WANT THAT. WE PUT ALL OF THESE SHAPES IN HERE AND THIS LITTLE KICK BACK TO MAKE THIS CAR LOOK LIKE A LAMBORGHINI AVENTADOR. BUT THAT'S OKAY, THERE IS A WAY THAT I CAN INSET THE PANEL SLIGHTLY WITH THESE TABS. IT'S JUST GONNA TAKE A DIFFERENT TYPE OF TUBING AND A PROCESS THAT'S CALLED OFFSET NOTCHING. NOW REMEMBER, OUR CHASSIS IS BUILT USING INCH AND THREE QUARTER DOM. BUT FOR THESE SMALL FILLER BRACE PIECES I'M GOING TO USE SOME INCH AND A HALF DOM.

TO GET THE OFFSET NOTCH ON THE TUBE I WILL ADJUST THE VICE ON THE NOTCHER CLOSER TO THE HOLE SAW, AND CUT THE NOTCH OFFSET ONTO ONE SIDE OF THE TUBING.

THIS OFFSET STYLE NOTCH STILL PROVIDES GOOD TUBE FITMENT BUT IT MOVES THE BRACE OFF THE TUBE CENTERLINE.

WHEN MAKING LONG STRAIGHT CUTS ON THICK ALUMINUM SHEETS, THE BEST TOOL FOR THE JOB I'VE FOUND IS A CIRCULAR SAW WITH A METAL CUTTING BLADE. IT'S LOUD BUT THE CUTS ARE INCREDIBLY CLEAN AND STRAIGHT. FOR THE PANELS ON THE SIDE OF OUR ROCK BOUNCERS I'M USING THE THICKER 185 ALUMINUM. THAT WILL HELP KEEP YOU SAFE WHEN YOU'RE INSIDE THE CAR BECAUSE THE THICK MATERIAL WILL PREVENT OBSTACLES

FROM FLYING INSIDE.

NOW THIS IS A LOT OF WORK FOR A SUBTLE LOOK. IT'S HARD TO TELL RIGHT NOW BECAUSE THE ALUMINUM AND THE TUBING ON THE CHASSIS ARE BASICALLY THE SAME COLOR. BUT ONCE EVERYTHING IS POWDER COATED THAT TUBING IS REALLY GOING TO POP ON THE SIDE OF THIS CAR.

PEOPLE WILL BE ABLE TO TELL THAT WE TOOK THE EXTRA TIME TO INSET THESE PANELS. NOW THE ROOF IS A LITTLE BIT DIFFERENT. THE PIECES I'M GONNA ADD FOR STRENGTH UP HERE AREN'T GOING TO LOOK AS GOOD AS THIS LONG FLOWING ROLLED BEND. SO INSTEAD OF SHOWCASING THOSE FILLER PIECES I'M GONNA HIDE THEM AND SKIN THE ROOF IN A SOLID PIECE OF 090 ALUMINUM.

WITH OUR 090 ALUMINUM MARKED, WE'LL TRIM IT WITH SOME ELECTRIC SHEERS. WE'LL GET THE ARC FOR OUR ROOF BY RUNNING

IT THROUGH A ROLLER. TRIM IT ONE MORE TIME TO FIT. ADD SOME TABS, AND BOLT IT IN PLACE. ALL I HAVE TO DO NOW IS SKIN THE REST OF THIS BUGGY.