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Video Transcript
(Pat)>> You're watching Powernation
(Frankie)>> The Ford 300 was never designed for high horsepower turbocharged applications.
(Pat)>> Today we push ours to the edge. I'm gonna go ahead and make the executive decision to make this the final run. It may be the final run anyway. ♪ ♪
(Pat)>> Today on Engine Power we are getting back on one of the most popular and fun projects we've done in a long time, our Ford 300 inline six banger.
(Frankie)>> Now this engine is currently in its naturally aspirated form and it's been through a couple of iterations. Now for some reason you haven't seen this engine you haven't seen this engine before and you don't know how it got here check this out.
(Pat)>> When we found the 300 it was attached to an industrial water sprayer. With a little work we got it running in the dyno cell. In perhaps our quietest dyno session ever the inline six produced 88 horsepower and 217 pound feet of torque. This engine is the text book definition of long but not strong. We almost didn't want to crack open this relic of automotive history but we were curious to find just how much power the 300 would make. We installed a Hooker long tube header, followed by a Summit Racing h-e-i distributor sporting MSD wires.
(Mike)>> Here we go!
(Pat)>> A 625 c-f-m Street Demon came next along with a set of Harlan Sharp 1.6 ratio roller rockers. The 300 really perked up laying down 169 horsepower and 280 pound feet of torque.
(Frankie)>> With the engine torn down we honed the cylinders to accept a set of forged 4.050 pistons designed for a 390 FE. We added a custom ground Comp camshaft and wrapped Total Seal rings around the pistons. A Pro Max 73cc ported cylinder head took air flow to a whole new level. This new combination raised our compression ratio from a stock eight to one to 9.95 to one, and the engine received a stout power increase putting out 270 horsepower and 338 pound feet of torque.
(Pat)>> The next phase of this engine is very exciting and is something you've all been asking for. We are going to put some artificial atmosphere to this engine with a turbocharger.
(Frankie)>> Now there aren't really any turbo kits available for this engine. So we're gonna have to fabricate our own, and that's gonna take some time and ingenuity. So we should get started. ♪ ♪ We had a couple different options when it came to what size turbocharger we wanted to run. Now your initial thought just like us is go big or go home. This one might be a little bit too big though. It's an 86 millimeter and although it would make great power it would take a while to spool up. Our next option is a little bit too small. It's only a 62 millimeter. Now this turbo would work but it's a little small. So it'd be a little less efficient at higher boost levels. This one though is just right. It has a 72 millimeter inducer wheel, a 68 millimeter exducer wheel, and a .81 aspect ratio, which is the relation between the exhaust inlet and the exducer wheel size. Now this one is a great balance between the previous two but the turbo is only one part of the entire system. There's a couple of other components we need to add. This is a VS Racing 50 millimeter waste gate that we got through Summit Racing. Now a waste gate is gonna relieve the exhaust gas pressure via a spring and valve, and it's gonna be really important for controlling the boost on the dyno. We also need a blow off valve to relieve any extra boost pressure in the intake track when we close the throttle bleeds. Now before we can put any of this on there's a few things we've got to take off of our engine first to make room..
(Pat)>> We'll start with the intake manifold. It's an Offenhauser C-series unit designed to increase power and torque through the r-p-m range. It has provisions for a square or spread bore flange. So it accepts a four barrel carburetor.
(Frankie)>> I'll take all the tight ones, don't worry! [ drill humming ] ♪ ♪
(Pat)>> Nice, nice! ♪ ♪
(Frankie)>> Here comes the big one! [ drill humming ]
(Pat)>> Stuck pretty good there.
(Frankie)>> They're all out. Not too bad!
(Pat)>> Gravy! So it looks really good. Since we have the intake and header off the engine it's time to work on how to get that exhaust gas back up to the turbocharger. So the first thing you would think is let's get a header for it or build one. Well there are no headers that are available and we are not going to build a custom one for it at this time. So we've decided to stay with cast iron. We have a couple of different examples here and we're gonna start with the one that is stocked for the engine. This is the log style manifold that is stocked for the year of our engine. It is very compact and very tough but there are a few problems with what we're trying to do with it. One it has a very abrupt turn out of the exhaust, which makes it compact but it reduces its cross sectional area and it flow as well. Plus it also has just one single small outlet in it and it's gonna be a problem if we try to make a bunch of power. So what we've decided to do is run a pair of split manifolds off a later e-f-i 300. Now there's big advantages to running split manifolds. One, there's two outlets. So we have double the amount of area, and two, these are built kinda like a little tubular header. So they flow much better than the log style, and where they "Y" out they will come together down into one single pipe and we can get that under the engine way easier and get it up to the turbine wheel. Up next, first we mock, then we rock.
(Pat)>> If you are spending the time and money it takes to build your own engine the last thing you want to do is leave metal chips, oil, or sludge inside your engine block. That can hinder performance, let alone cause major damage. A good collection of purpose built engine cleaning brushes is an affordable way to get the job done right. This set of 12 from Moroso have stiff nylon bristles, which clean like wire but without scratching your engine. It features a wide variety of brush diameters and handle lengths. So it's easy to get into those hard to reach places. You can also find specialized brushes, like these crankshaft oil brushes from Brush Research. Having the right tools to do the job makes all the difference and you can find these and other cleaning solutions at Summit Racing Equipment. ♪ ♪
(Frankie)>> Now that we know what manifolds we're gonna be using we'll go ahead and get them mocked up on the engine and start figuring out our exhaust. They do make a stock replacement Y-pipe but it's a little small. So we just decided to make our own. We'll have two 90's here and a 45 here that will go into a Vibrant Performance Y-pipe that we got from Summit Racing. It has a two and a quarter inlet and a three inch outlet. Then we'll 90 underneath the pan and then go up to our turbo, and that will complete our hot side. The idea of mock up is to get everything into place exactly where you want it to be. We'll just tack weld everything for now in case we need to make any adjustments or changes later on. [ tig welder buzzing ]
(Pat)>> Soldier it?
(Frankie)>> Yep.
(Pat)>> Now on this side I'm gonna sneak around there.
(Frankie)>> I hold the top so you don't burn your fingers.
(Pat)>> You're good. Somewhere about right there.
(Frankie)>> Watch your eyes. ♪ ♪ Go get this burned up.
(Pat)>> With the distributor out of the way we can mock up where the turbo is going to set. We're gonna put it around this area because it's right out in the open and will be easy to hook up on the dyno. If this engine ever goes into a vehicle we will have to reengineer the entire system to fit but for right now we're trying to keep it easy. So we made this not to scale drawing to make a bracket to bolt to these four bosses as a good, solid mounting place for it, and Jimmy down in Carcass took our highly technical drawing, burned some holes in it, put a bend in it, and even welded up some gussets. This will be a nice secure place to mount the turbo. ♪ ♪ [ drill buzzing ]
(Frankie)>> Just like the rest of the mock up we're temporarily mounting the turbo. [ drill buzzing ]
(Frankie)>> How'd that bracket turn out?
(Pat)>> That was well designed even though it wasn't scale.
(Frankie)>> Jimmy made that work really good not me. I got this fully welded. So put this on and figure out the rest.
(Pat)>> Shouldn't be a problem. We're way out in the open here. It's gonna be very, very easy to hook up to. ♪ ♪ [ drill buzzing ]
(Frankie)>> Slide that across here. It should fit pretty good. I've got to tack her up right now. [ drill humming ]
(Pat)>> Somewhere in there, yep! Alright this thing is square. How they hell did you get it square?
(Frankie)>> A C-clamp and an arbor press.
(Pat)>> Very nice!
(Frankie)>> It'll fit, which is good.
(Pat)>> So this will go down just to be up on that right there?
(Frankie)>> Perfect, it'll be right there.
(Pat)>> Quick get the welder. [ tig welder buzzing ]
(Frankie)>> Now that we've got our hot side tacked up, we know where everything's gonna be we also went ahead and mocked up our waste gate that we got from Summit Racing. Now all we've got to do is take it all apart, weld it, and then put it back together again. Since we don't have to worry about fitting this system, at least for now, the fabrication process is pretty straight forward. All said and done we probably have a few hours in mock up and a couple hours of welding in this project. Up next, the inline six gets an e-f-i system that's ready for big power.
(Pat)>> The turbocharged Ford 300 is almost ready for the dyno cell. Everything has been mocked up and the turbo piping has been finish welded. Let's move on to final assembly. ♪ ♪ [ drill humming ] ♪ ♪ [ drill humming ]
(Frankie)>> Now that we have our hot side fully installed we wanted to take a second and explain why we put the waste gate where we did. It's important that you don't put the waste gate at a right angle or an obtuse angle to the exhaust flow. You want it on an end line or a bend like we have here. This is gonna make the waste gate a lot more accurate when you're controlling the boost pressure. ♪ ♪
(Pat)>> Most turbochargers require pressurized oiling. Just as important is a free flowing and large oil return line. This will help keep your exhaust smoke free. ♪ ♪ Something like that?
(Frankie)>> Yep! ♪ ♪ We're almost ready to start our Ford 300 but there's a few components we've got to add first. Most importantly how we're gonna mix the air/fuel ratio. Since we added a turbo and we're gonna go forced induction we wanted to go with a throttle body e-f-i unit from Holley. This is their Sniper X-flow unit, and although we just ran it on our little bity 305 it's also gonna work great on our big 6 because it's good up to 800 horsepower naturally aspirated due to four 120 pound injectors. It's also good for 21.5 pounds of boost because it has an integral two and a half bar map sensor. These units are super easy to use because they only take four connections to run and all the tuning and setup can be done with the handheld. You don't even need of a laptop. Even for boost controlled, a-f-r, and timing adjustments. We also needed a way to get our charged air into our throttle body. So we got one of Holley's e-f-i hats, painted it white to match the engine naturally, and with that we should almost be ready to go. Sniper throttle body units will fit on a square bore flange or a spread bore flange, making them very versatile. ♪ ♪
(Pat)>> What do you think of that right there?
(Frankie)>> That's nice, you made that in a lathe?
(Pat)>> Yeah a little neural action and everything.
(Frankie)>> How long did that take you?
(Pat)>> Not long, 20 minutes.
(Frankie)>> We're using a charge air cooler from a previous diesel project.
(Pat)>> This contraption.
(Frankie)>> This should be sized nicely for the inline six's power level. Up next, Pat goes over to the dark side.
(Pat)>> I think we need more boost. It's like an invasion of the body snatchers.
(Pat)>> The Ford 300 is in the dyno cell and we've outfitted the waste gate with a seven pound spring as a safe starting point for our dyno session. [ engine revving ]
(Frankie)>> Boost! [ engine revving ]
(Pat)>> Alright, now you have a boost control on that right now don't you?
(Frankie)>> I do and it's closed. So it's two pounds of boost. Two and a half at peak torque.
(Pat)>> We have some control over the boost. Go put something in it for boost.
(Frankie)>> I'm not sure what the increments are on that boost controller so we're just gonna go probably one, two.
(Pat)>> Go two clicks on it right now. Everything is ultra safe. Air/fuel ratio's 11/4. How many clicks you put in it?
(Frankie)>> Three cause I like to party.
(Pat)>> That's fun sound right there isn't it?
(Frankie)>>> Oh yeah! [ engine revving ]
(Pat)>> Oh that made a difference! [ engine revving ]
(Pat)>> That's a difference.
(Frankie)>> Heck yeah, look at that. 436 pound feet, that's mean.
(Pat)>> 345 horse at 5,000. Go put some more clicks in it?
(Frankie)>> I'll put two more in it. We made a series of dyno runs adding more boost each time. Eventually I got a little greedy though. See what it does.
(Pat)>> I don't want to know what you did until afterwards.
(Frankie)>> Nah you don't. [ engine revving ]
(Pat)>> That might need a bigger spring in it now. 453, how big a change was that?
(Frankie)>> Six clicks. We are on a really light spring in there.
(Pat)>> That is almost to six p-s-i. I think we need more boost and I can't believe I'm saying that. It's like the invasion of the body snatchers or something cause I'm naturally aspirated guy but I want to see this thing make some power. Very nice!
(Frankie)>> See if I can do this without hitting my face.
(Pat)>> Want me to help you? I've got a pair of gloves somewhere. I can help you if you want.
(Frankie)>> It'll take too long, you're old.
(Pat)>> Is this help when I do this end? How you gonna get that other side on there?
(Frankie)>> I'm gonna do it just like this. It just looks awkward and takes forever.
(Pat)>> Normally if it takes a bunch of spring pressure you take this entire unit off and go stick it in like an arbor press or a drill press, or something that helps you compress that spring.
(Frankie)>> Well when you get in the higher boost levels cause it's all about surface area. Some of these are 100 pounds compressed. So there's no way you're doing it the way I just did it but for these little bity strings it'll be okay.
(Pat)>> Everything's the same. Did you back that clicker off?
(Frankie)>> Yeah I backed it off so we could sneak up to it because those springs together should be 12 to 14 pounds. I don't think we want to hit that all at once. [ engine revving ]
(Pat)>>> Oh my! 540 pound feet, 453 horsepower.
(Frankie)>> I saw it crack 500 pound feet and I stopped looking at the screen and started looking in there.
(Pat)>> I watched between the oil pressure and the torque meter.
(Frankie)>> I waiting maybe parts to fly off.
(Pat)>> No parts gonna fly off but maybe.
(Frankie)>> 10 pounds of boost, that's a big jump.
(Pat)>> That's a huge jump. That was not exactly intentional. We're starting to get in the realm of I don't know what parts will take.
(Frankie)>> Stock head gasket.
(Pat)>>> Cylinder block, again, I'm worried about splitting a cylinder. [ engine revving ]
(Pat)>> 497, 575 pound feet. Alright how much boost was that?
(Frankie)>> I don't know I'm scared.
(Pat)>> That's 12!
(Frankie)>> Oh that's spicy!
(Pat)>> We've got to do it. Go put two more clicks in it, and then we're gonna stop. I'm gonna go ahead and make the executive decision to make this the final run. It may be the final run anyway.
(Frankie)>> It might actually be. [ engine revving ]
(Pat)>> What were you worried about. 517.8, 597 pound feet!
(Frankie)>> We're like so close.
(Pat)>> Just two more clicks it's nothing. You're a very bad influence but it's just two more clicks. Put two more in it. I recant my last statement and say that was the last pull. This is gonna be the last pull. [ engine revving ]
(Pat)>> I think we're at the end of our string.
(Frankie)>>> I think we're on the waste gate there.
(Pat)>> Watch this.
(Frankie)>> That's a good idea.
(Pat)>>> We have a 308 cubic inch inline six Ford 4.9 liter old school carbureted manifold and this thing just made 522 horsepower and 597 pound feet of torque. So we went from 270 to 522, and from 338 to 597. That's a high five. For more information on anything you've seen on today's show check out Powernation TV dot com.
Show Full Transcript
(Frankie)>> The Ford 300 was never designed for high horsepower turbocharged applications.
(Pat)>> Today we push ours to the edge. I'm gonna go ahead and make the executive decision to make this the final run. It may be the final run anyway. ♪ ♪
(Pat)>> Today on Engine Power we are getting back on one of the most popular and fun projects we've done in a long time, our Ford 300 inline six banger.
(Frankie)>> Now this engine is currently in its naturally aspirated form and it's been through a couple of iterations. Now for some reason you haven't seen this engine you haven't seen this engine before and you don't know how it got here check this out.
(Pat)>> When we found the 300 it was attached to an industrial water sprayer. With a little work we got it running in the dyno cell. In perhaps our quietest dyno session ever the inline six produced 88 horsepower and 217 pound feet of torque. This engine is the text book definition of long but not strong. We almost didn't want to crack open this relic of automotive history but we were curious to find just how much power the 300 would make. We installed a Hooker long tube header, followed by a Summit Racing h-e-i distributor sporting MSD wires.
(Mike)>> Here we go!
(Pat)>> A 625 c-f-m Street Demon came next along with a set of Harlan Sharp 1.6 ratio roller rockers. The 300 really perked up laying down 169 horsepower and 280 pound feet of torque.
(Frankie)>> With the engine torn down we honed the cylinders to accept a set of forged 4.050 pistons designed for a 390 FE. We added a custom ground Comp camshaft and wrapped Total Seal rings around the pistons. A Pro Max 73cc ported cylinder head took air flow to a whole new level. This new combination raised our compression ratio from a stock eight to one to 9.95 to one, and the engine received a stout power increase putting out 270 horsepower and 338 pound feet of torque.
(Pat)>> The next phase of this engine is very exciting and is something you've all been asking for. We are going to put some artificial atmosphere to this engine with a turbocharger.
(Frankie)>> Now there aren't really any turbo kits available for this engine. So we're gonna have to fabricate our own, and that's gonna take some time and ingenuity. So we should get started. ♪ ♪ We had a couple different options when it came to what size turbocharger we wanted to run. Now your initial thought just like us is go big or go home. This one might be a little bit too big though. It's an 86 millimeter and although it would make great power it would take a while to spool up. Our next option is a little bit too small. It's only a 62 millimeter. Now this turbo would work but it's a little small. So it'd be a little less efficient at higher boost levels. This one though is just right. It has a 72 millimeter inducer wheel, a 68 millimeter exducer wheel, and a .81 aspect ratio, which is the relation between the exhaust inlet and the exducer wheel size. Now this one is a great balance between the previous two but the turbo is only one part of the entire system. There's a couple of other components we need to add. This is a VS Racing 50 millimeter waste gate that we got through Summit Racing. Now a waste gate is gonna relieve the exhaust gas pressure via a spring and valve, and it's gonna be really important for controlling the boost on the dyno. We also need a blow off valve to relieve any extra boost pressure in the intake track when we close the throttle bleeds. Now before we can put any of this on there's a few things we've got to take off of our engine first to make room..
(Pat)>> We'll start with the intake manifold. It's an Offenhauser C-series unit designed to increase power and torque through the r-p-m range. It has provisions for a square or spread bore flange. So it accepts a four barrel carburetor.
(Frankie)>> I'll take all the tight ones, don't worry! [ drill humming ] ♪ ♪
(Pat)>> Nice, nice! ♪ ♪
(Frankie)>> Here comes the big one! [ drill humming ]
(Pat)>> Stuck pretty good there.
(Frankie)>> They're all out. Not too bad!
(Pat)>> Gravy! So it looks really good. Since we have the intake and header off the engine it's time to work on how to get that exhaust gas back up to the turbocharger. So the first thing you would think is let's get a header for it or build one. Well there are no headers that are available and we are not going to build a custom one for it at this time. So we've decided to stay with cast iron. We have a couple of different examples here and we're gonna start with the one that is stocked for the engine. This is the log style manifold that is stocked for the year of our engine. It is very compact and very tough but there are a few problems with what we're trying to do with it. One it has a very abrupt turn out of the exhaust, which makes it compact but it reduces its cross sectional area and it flow as well. Plus it also has just one single small outlet in it and it's gonna be a problem if we try to make a bunch of power. So what we've decided to do is run a pair of split manifolds off a later e-f-i 300. Now there's big advantages to running split manifolds. One, there's two outlets. So we have double the amount of area, and two, these are built kinda like a little tubular header. So they flow much better than the log style, and where they "Y" out they will come together down into one single pipe and we can get that under the engine way easier and get it up to the turbine wheel. Up next, first we mock, then we rock.
(Pat)>> If you are spending the time and money it takes to build your own engine the last thing you want to do is leave metal chips, oil, or sludge inside your engine block. That can hinder performance, let alone cause major damage. A good collection of purpose built engine cleaning brushes is an affordable way to get the job done right. This set of 12 from Moroso have stiff nylon bristles, which clean like wire but without scratching your engine. It features a wide variety of brush diameters and handle lengths. So it's easy to get into those hard to reach places. You can also find specialized brushes, like these crankshaft oil brushes from Brush Research. Having the right tools to do the job makes all the difference and you can find these and other cleaning solutions at Summit Racing Equipment. ♪ ♪
(Frankie)>> Now that we know what manifolds we're gonna be using we'll go ahead and get them mocked up on the engine and start figuring out our exhaust. They do make a stock replacement Y-pipe but it's a little small. So we just decided to make our own. We'll have two 90's here and a 45 here that will go into a Vibrant Performance Y-pipe that we got from Summit Racing. It has a two and a quarter inlet and a three inch outlet. Then we'll 90 underneath the pan and then go up to our turbo, and that will complete our hot side. The idea of mock up is to get everything into place exactly where you want it to be. We'll just tack weld everything for now in case we need to make any adjustments or changes later on. [ tig welder buzzing ]
(Pat)>> Soldier it?
(Frankie)>> Yep.
(Pat)>> Now on this side I'm gonna sneak around there.
(Frankie)>> I hold the top so you don't burn your fingers.
(Pat)>> You're good. Somewhere about right there.
(Frankie)>> Watch your eyes. ♪ ♪ Go get this burned up.
(Pat)>> With the distributor out of the way we can mock up where the turbo is going to set. We're gonna put it around this area because it's right out in the open and will be easy to hook up on the dyno. If this engine ever goes into a vehicle we will have to reengineer the entire system to fit but for right now we're trying to keep it easy. So we made this not to scale drawing to make a bracket to bolt to these four bosses as a good, solid mounting place for it, and Jimmy down in Carcass took our highly technical drawing, burned some holes in it, put a bend in it, and even welded up some gussets. This will be a nice secure place to mount the turbo. ♪ ♪ [ drill buzzing ]
(Frankie)>> Just like the rest of the mock up we're temporarily mounting the turbo. [ drill buzzing ]
(Frankie)>> How'd that bracket turn out?
(Pat)>> That was well designed even though it wasn't scale.
(Frankie)>> Jimmy made that work really good not me. I got this fully welded. So put this on and figure out the rest.
(Pat)>> Shouldn't be a problem. We're way out in the open here. It's gonna be very, very easy to hook up to. ♪ ♪ [ drill buzzing ]
(Frankie)>> Slide that across here. It should fit pretty good. I've got to tack her up right now. [ drill humming ]
(Pat)>> Somewhere in there, yep! Alright this thing is square. How they hell did you get it square?
(Frankie)>> A C-clamp and an arbor press.
(Pat)>> Very nice!
(Frankie)>> It'll fit, which is good.
(Pat)>> So this will go down just to be up on that right there?
(Frankie)>> Perfect, it'll be right there.
(Pat)>> Quick get the welder. [ tig welder buzzing ]
(Frankie)>> Now that we've got our hot side tacked up, we know where everything's gonna be we also went ahead and mocked up our waste gate that we got from Summit Racing. Now all we've got to do is take it all apart, weld it, and then put it back together again. Since we don't have to worry about fitting this system, at least for now, the fabrication process is pretty straight forward. All said and done we probably have a few hours in mock up and a couple hours of welding in this project. Up next, the inline six gets an e-f-i system that's ready for big power.
(Pat)>> The turbocharged Ford 300 is almost ready for the dyno cell. Everything has been mocked up and the turbo piping has been finish welded. Let's move on to final assembly. ♪ ♪ [ drill humming ] ♪ ♪ [ drill humming ]
(Frankie)>> Now that we have our hot side fully installed we wanted to take a second and explain why we put the waste gate where we did. It's important that you don't put the waste gate at a right angle or an obtuse angle to the exhaust flow. You want it on an end line or a bend like we have here. This is gonna make the waste gate a lot more accurate when you're controlling the boost pressure. ♪ ♪
(Pat)>> Most turbochargers require pressurized oiling. Just as important is a free flowing and large oil return line. This will help keep your exhaust smoke free. ♪ ♪ Something like that?
(Frankie)>> Yep! ♪ ♪ We're almost ready to start our Ford 300 but there's a few components we've got to add first. Most importantly how we're gonna mix the air/fuel ratio. Since we added a turbo and we're gonna go forced induction we wanted to go with a throttle body e-f-i unit from Holley. This is their Sniper X-flow unit, and although we just ran it on our little bity 305 it's also gonna work great on our big 6 because it's good up to 800 horsepower naturally aspirated due to four 120 pound injectors. It's also good for 21.5 pounds of boost because it has an integral two and a half bar map sensor. These units are super easy to use because they only take four connections to run and all the tuning and setup can be done with the handheld. You don't even need of a laptop. Even for boost controlled, a-f-r, and timing adjustments. We also needed a way to get our charged air into our throttle body. So we got one of Holley's e-f-i hats, painted it white to match the engine naturally, and with that we should almost be ready to go. Sniper throttle body units will fit on a square bore flange or a spread bore flange, making them very versatile. ♪ ♪
(Pat)>> What do you think of that right there?
(Frankie)>> That's nice, you made that in a lathe?
(Pat)>> Yeah a little neural action and everything.
(Frankie)>> How long did that take you?
(Pat)>> Not long, 20 minutes.
(Frankie)>> We're using a charge air cooler from a previous diesel project.
(Pat)>> This contraption.
(Frankie)>> This should be sized nicely for the inline six's power level. Up next, Pat goes over to the dark side.
(Pat)>> I think we need more boost. It's like an invasion of the body snatchers.
(Pat)>> The Ford 300 is in the dyno cell and we've outfitted the waste gate with a seven pound spring as a safe starting point for our dyno session. [ engine revving ]
(Frankie)>> Boost! [ engine revving ]
(Pat)>> Alright, now you have a boost control on that right now don't you?
(Frankie)>> I do and it's closed. So it's two pounds of boost. Two and a half at peak torque.
(Pat)>> We have some control over the boost. Go put something in it for boost.
(Frankie)>> I'm not sure what the increments are on that boost controller so we're just gonna go probably one, two.
(Pat)>> Go two clicks on it right now. Everything is ultra safe. Air/fuel ratio's 11/4. How many clicks you put in it?
(Frankie)>> Three cause I like to party.
(Pat)>> That's fun sound right there isn't it?
(Frankie)>>> Oh yeah! [ engine revving ]
(Pat)>> Oh that made a difference! [ engine revving ]
(Pat)>> That's a difference.
(Frankie)>> Heck yeah, look at that. 436 pound feet, that's mean.
(Pat)>> 345 horse at 5,000. Go put some more clicks in it?
(Frankie)>> I'll put two more in it. We made a series of dyno runs adding more boost each time. Eventually I got a little greedy though. See what it does.
(Pat)>> I don't want to know what you did until afterwards.
(Frankie)>> Nah you don't. [ engine revving ]
(Pat)>> That might need a bigger spring in it now. 453, how big a change was that?
(Frankie)>> Six clicks. We are on a really light spring in there.
(Pat)>> That is almost to six p-s-i. I think we need more boost and I can't believe I'm saying that. It's like the invasion of the body snatchers or something cause I'm naturally aspirated guy but I want to see this thing make some power. Very nice!
(Frankie)>> See if I can do this without hitting my face.
(Pat)>> Want me to help you? I've got a pair of gloves somewhere. I can help you if you want.
(Frankie)>> It'll take too long, you're old.
(Pat)>> Is this help when I do this end? How you gonna get that other side on there?
(Frankie)>> I'm gonna do it just like this. It just looks awkward and takes forever.
(Pat)>> Normally if it takes a bunch of spring pressure you take this entire unit off and go stick it in like an arbor press or a drill press, or something that helps you compress that spring.
(Frankie)>> Well when you get in the higher boost levels cause it's all about surface area. Some of these are 100 pounds compressed. So there's no way you're doing it the way I just did it but for these little bity strings it'll be okay.
(Pat)>> Everything's the same. Did you back that clicker off?
(Frankie)>> Yeah I backed it off so we could sneak up to it because those springs together should be 12 to 14 pounds. I don't think we want to hit that all at once. [ engine revving ]
(Pat)>>> Oh my! 540 pound feet, 453 horsepower.
(Frankie)>> I saw it crack 500 pound feet and I stopped looking at the screen and started looking in there.
(Pat)>> I watched between the oil pressure and the torque meter.
(Frankie)>> I waiting maybe parts to fly off.
(Pat)>> No parts gonna fly off but maybe.
(Frankie)>> 10 pounds of boost, that's a big jump.
(Pat)>> That's a huge jump. That was not exactly intentional. We're starting to get in the realm of I don't know what parts will take.
(Frankie)>> Stock head gasket.
(Pat)>>> Cylinder block, again, I'm worried about splitting a cylinder. [ engine revving ]
(Pat)>> 497, 575 pound feet. Alright how much boost was that?
(Frankie)>> I don't know I'm scared.
(Pat)>> That's 12!
(Frankie)>> Oh that's spicy!
(Pat)>> We've got to do it. Go put two more clicks in it, and then we're gonna stop. I'm gonna go ahead and make the executive decision to make this the final run. It may be the final run anyway.
(Frankie)>> It might actually be. [ engine revving ]
(Pat)>> What were you worried about. 517.8, 597 pound feet!
(Frankie)>> We're like so close.
(Pat)>> Just two more clicks it's nothing. You're a very bad influence but it's just two more clicks. Put two more in it. I recant my last statement and say that was the last pull. This is gonna be the last pull. [ engine revving ]
(Pat)>> I think we're at the end of our string.
(Frankie)>>> I think we're on the waste gate there.
(Pat)>> Watch this.
(Frankie)>> That's a good idea.
(Pat)>>> We have a 308 cubic inch inline six Ford 4.9 liter old school carbureted manifold and this thing just made 522 horsepower and 597 pound feet of torque. So we went from 270 to 522, and from 338 to 597. That's a high five. For more information on anything you've seen on today's show check out Powernation TV dot com.
