More The Highwayman Marquis Episodes

Detroit Muscle Featured Projects

Detroit Muscle Builds

Parts Used In This Episode

American Racing
Custom Shop, VF488 Stella, 2 piece forged center, forged barrel, 20 x 9.5F, 20 x 10.5R
Dupli-Color
Paint, Engine, Enamel with Ceramic Resin, Semi-Gloss, Black, 12 oz., Aerosol, Each
Edelbrock
Intake Manifold, Direct Port Nitrous, Single Plane, Aluminum, 4-barrel Square Bore, Chevy, Small Block, Kit
Mickey Thompson
Tire, ET Street S/S, P 275/40-20, Radial, R2 Compound, Blackwall, Each
QA1
With over 5,000 sizes, styles and materials in QA1 rod ends to choose from, QA1 manufactures a rod end for virtually every application.
Summit Racing
Air Lift 77110 Crafter Package. Way with (4)D2600 Air Springs
Auto Metal Direct
70-71 Challenger Rear Valance w/o Tips
Currie Enterprises
CUSTOM, F9 Fabricated Housing With 3" Tubes and Large Bearing Ends,Nodular Iron third member- 3.00 gears, 31-spline axles,supplied with 11" disc brake conversion kit
ESAB
Rebel EMP 215ic for MIG/TIG/Stick
ESAB
The Official Welding and Cutting Supplier of Detroit Muscle, featuring the all-new Rebel 215 Multi-
The Industrial Depot
The Industrial Depot - Fasteners, Hardware, and Shop Supplies

Video Transcript

(ANNOUNCER)>> TODAY ON DETROIT MUSCLE WE CONTINUE ON OUR MONSTER MERCURY BUILD, "THE HIGHWAYMAN". WE'VE GOT TO MAKE SURE THAT 1,100 HORSEPOWER CAN

MAKE IT TO THE GROUND WITH A MASSIVE SUSPENSION OVERHAUL.

(MARC)>> HEY GUYS, THANKS FOR JOINING USE. NOW TODAY WE'RE GETTING BACK ON OUR BIG MERCURY PROJECT, "THE HIGHWAYMAN". NOW IF YOU'LL REMEMBER, WE STUFFED A BIG BLOCK UNDER THE HOOD THAT MAKES OVER 1,000 HORSEPOWER, AND TO SUPPORT IT WE GOT A BUILT TRANSMISSION, BIG FUEL SYSTEM, AND EXHAUST. TODAY WE'RE MOVING ONTO THE SUSPENSION, BRAKES, AND REAR END.

(TOMMY)>> NOW OUR OLD CAR CAME FROM THE FACTORY WITH A NINE INCH UNDER IT, BUT WHENEVER YOU FACTOR IN THAT BIG POWER AND THE WEIGHT OF THAT OLE GIRL, WELL IT'S JUST NOT STRONG ENOUGH. SO WE HAVE TO GO WITH AN AFTERMARKET UNIT. SO WE GAVE OUR FRIEND JOHN CURRIE WITH CURRIE ENTERPRISES A PHONE CALL. JOHN WHAT'D YOU BRING US?

(JOHN)>> WELL WE'VE GOT A COMPLETE FNINE REAR END HERE, A SET OF 35 SPLINE AXLES, COMPLETE NODULAR IRON THIRD MEMBER, AND A SET OF 11 INCHES BRAKES TO PUT ON THIS THING. THE HOUSING ITSELF IS OUR FNINE THREE INCH TUBE SETUP. IT'S A FABRICATED HOUSING WITH BILLET LARGE BEARING HOUSING ENDS. IT'S BACK BRACED FOR MAXIMUM STRENGTH IN A HIGH HORSEPOWER APPLICATION.

(TOMMY)>> WHENEVER WE STARTED DOWN THE PATH TO FIND A REAR AXLE FOR OUR MERCURY WE HAD A LITTLE BIT OF A CONCERN CAUSE IT'S KIND OF AN ODD DUCK CAUSE I'M SURE YOU GUYS DON'T GET A WHOLE LOT OF CALLS FOR A '72.

(JOHN)>> NO WE DON'T, BUT CURRIE ENTERPRISES IS KNOWN FOR BUILDING CUSTOM REAR ENDS, AND FOR MOST POPULAR APPLICATIONS WE HAVE ALL THE BRACKETS. ON THIS PARTICULAR ONE THOUGH WE PUT SOME PIECES TOGETHER. WE USED THE CHEVELLE SPRING BUCKETS, THE JEEP SHOCK MOUNTS, AND TOYOTA CONTROL ARM BRACKETS.

(TOMMY)>> WHY DON'T WE TALK ABOUT THE CENTER SECTION?

(JOHN)>> WELL WHAT WE'VE GOT HERE IS OUR NINE PLUS NODULAR IRON GEAR CASE, OUR NINE PLUS BIG BRIM PINION SUPPORT, BILLET YOKE, 35 SPLINE TRUE TRACK, AND SETUP WITH A SET OF THREEZERO GEARS FOR THAT BIG BLOCK MOTOR.

(TOMMY)>> NOW NORMALLY THIS KIT WOULD COME TO YOU FULLY ASSEMBLED AND READ TO GO, AND THEY HAVE THE OPTION OF HAVING THE HOUSING POWDER COATED JUST

IN CASE YOU NEED IT.

(JOHN)>> WELL WE SHIPPED IT TO YOU IN PIECES, BUT NOW IT GIVES US THE OPPORTUNITY TO PUT IT ALL BACK TOGETHER AND TAKE A LOOK AT WHAT WE'VE GOT GOING ON ON THE INSIDE. THESE AXLE SHAFTS ARE INCH AND A HALF 35 SPLINE PERFORMANCE AXLES. SET 20, TIMKEN BEARING, HEAVY DUTY RETAINER PLATE, AND HALF 20 THREE INCH LONG STUDS. THE STOCK AXLES ARE ONLY 28 SPLINED, AND THESE AXLES ARE OVER TWICE AS STRONG.

YOU WOULDN'T WANT TO PUT THIS MUCH INTO A REAR END AND PUT THE WRONG OIL IN IT.

THE NINE PLUS GEAR OIL, 85-140 IS SPECIFICALLY FORMULATED FOR THE NINE INCH FORD. ONE LAST THING IS OUR 11 INCH DISC BRAKE KIT. THIS IS NOT ONLY OUR MOST POPULAR DISC BRAKE KIT, IT'S ALSO OUR MOST ECONOMICAL DISC BRAKE KIT.

(TOMMY)>> LIKE WE SAID A MINUTE AGO, NORMALLY THESE REAR ENDS WOULD COME ASSEMBLED FROM CURRIE. AND NOW THAT WE'VE TAKEN A LOOK AT WHAT MAKES THIS THING WORK, WE CAN GET OURS TOGETHER AS WELL.

WELL JOHN I WANT TO SAY THANKS FOR THIS TRICK PIECE. NOW IT'S TIME FOR US TO GET A LITTLE BIT BUSY AND PUT THIS OLE CAR ON SOME AIR. YOU'RE WELCOME TO STICK AROUND AND GET YOUR HANDS DIRTY IF YOU'D LIKE.

(JOHN)>> THANK YOU FOR THE OPPORTUNITY, I'VE ENJOYED

MYSELF OUT HERE, BUT I'VE GOT AN INVITATION TO GO TO MOAB, UTAH, AND DO SOME OFF ROADING.

SO WE'RE OFF.

(TOMMY)>> WELL LET'S GET YOU ON A PLANE MAN.

(JOHN)>> ALRIGHT!

(TOMMY)>> WE'RE REALLY TRYING TO COVER ALL THE BASES WHENEVER IT COMES TO PUTTING THAT BIG POWER TO THE GROUND. WE'VE GOT OUR OLD REAR OUT AND THE NEXT STEP TO DO IS GOING TO BE BEEFING UP THOSE TRAILING ARMS, AND THAT'S NOT GOING TO BE AS BAD AS IT SOUNDS.

(MARC)>> NOW THE WAY WE'RE GONNA DO THAT IS WE'RE GONNA MAKE OUR OWN CONTROL ARMS. LIKE WE SAID EARLIER, WE SENT CURRIE ALL OF OUR STOCK DIMENSIONS ON OUR MERCURY.

THE ADVANTAGE TO THAT IS THIS SETUP'S ALREADY A

THREE LINK WITH A PAN HARD ROD, WHICH MEANS IT'S GONNA HANDLE REALLY WELL ON THE STREET AND ON THE TRACK, BUT WE DO NEED TO GET RID OF THESE SOFT STOCK BUSHINGS.

WE'RE GONNA DO THAT WITH THESE SOLID ROD ENDS. WE GOT ALL THIS STUFF FROM QA ONE AND WE'VE GOT SOME LEFT HANDED AND RIGHT HANDED THREAD ENDS, LOCK NUTS, AND SOME INSERTS THAT'LL WELD

INTO THE TUBING. NOW WE JUST TAKE THESE ENDS AND WE'LL MOCK UP OUR STOCK CONTROL ARMS AND WELD A PIECE OF TUBING IN BETWEEN, SIMPLE AS THAT.

FIRST I'LL HEAD ON OVER TO BORROW SOME TUBE FROM IAN IN XTREME OFF ROAD. HE WON'T MIND.

NOW BEFORE WE MEASURE WE'RE GONNA GO AHEAD AND RUN THE TUBING ADAPTER OUT ABOUT HALF WAY DOWN THE ROD. THAT WAY WE CAN ADJUST BOTH IN AND OUT.

WE'RE GONNA MAKE OUR TUBES JUST A SHADE SHORTER THAN

OUR FLANGE TO FLANGE MEASUREMENT BECAUSE WE WANT TO LEAVE A BIT OF A GROOVE TO ACT AS A NATURAL BEVEL FOR OUR WELD TO PENETRATE THE ROD ENDS.

WE'LL USE OUR ESAB REBEL MIG WELDER TO TACK THEM,

THEN JUMP TO ITS TIG WELDER TO BURN THEM SOLID.

ALRIGHT NOW THAT WE'VE GOT OUR CONTROL ARMS BUILT, IT'S TIME TO GET THE REAR END MOUNTED UNDERNEATH THE CAR, BUT THERE'S ONE PROBLEM.

THE ORIGINAL SUSPENSION BOLTS WERE NINESIXTEENTHS THICK.

WE'RE UPGRADING TO FIVEEIGHTHS. SO WE NEED TO DRILL THESE HOLES OUT SOME MORE. ANOTHER THING YOU MAY NOTICE IS THE MUFFLERS AND TAIL PIPES AREN'T HERE. THAT'S BECAUSE WHEN WE BUILT OUR EXHAUST SYSTEM

WE LEFT THE WELDS AT THE FRONT OF THE MUFFLERS JUST TACKED. THAT WAY WE COULD REMOVE ALL THAT FOR

THIS VERY REASON. WE'LL GET THOSE BACK IN BEFORE WE GET OUR REAR END BUTTONED UP. [ DRILL SPINNING ]

(TOMMY)>> IT'S IMPORTANT TO USE SPACERS, LIKE THESE THAT WE ALSO GOT FROM QA ONE, BECAUSE THEY PREVENT BINDING DURING SUSPENSION MOVEMENT OR TRAVEL.

FOR THE LOWER ARMS WE'LL MOUNT THEM TO THE CAR FIRST. THEN BRING IT DOWN SO THAT WE CAN HOOK EVERYTHING UP.

THEN WE CAN BRING IT DOWN AND GET THE UPPER ARM FASTENED AS WELL.

THE LAST THING WE'LL DO IS ARTICULATE IT TO CHECK FOR ANY PROBLEMS.

(ANNOUNCER)>> COMING UP, LEARN HOW TO ADAPT YOUR SUSPENSION SYSTEM TO WORK WITH AIR BAGS.

(TOMMY)>> HEY GUYS, WELCOME BACK. FROM THE GET GO WE WEREN'T REAL SURE WHAT EXACTLY WE WERE GONNA DO ON OUR OLD MERCURY REGARDING THE SUSPENSION. WELL WE FINALLY PULLED THE TRIGGER AND WE DECIDED TO PUT THIS OLE GIRL ON AIR. SO WE WENT TO SUMMIT RACING AND

GOT US A FULL KIT. NOW IT COMES WITH A FIVE GALLON, EIGHT PORT STEEL TANK AND FOUR BAGS THAT ARE GONNA REPLACE OUR COIL SPRINGS. NOW YOU'VE GOTTA HAVE VALVES TO CONTROL THE AIR, SO WE WENT WITH THE CHROME THREEEIGHTHS IN SIZE. AND IT MAY LOOK LIKE A BUNCH OF THEM HERE, BUT WE'LL TALK A LITTLE MORE ABOUT THAT LATER. IT ALSO COMES WITH A BOAT LOAD OF FITTINGS. NOW YOU WON'T USE EACH AND EVERY ONE OF THESE, BUT IT'S HANDY TO HAVE THEM ON HAND. THE KIT ALSO INCLUDES TWO OF THESE DUAL NEEDLE 200 PSI GAUGES AND ALL THE LINE IT'S GONNA TAKE TO GET YOU PLUMBED UP. NOW DON'T FORGET YOU'RE GONNA NEED SOME OF THIS ELECTRICITY STRING TO WIRE UP THAT SHINNY COMPRESSOR.

(MARC)>> THERE ARE QUITE A FEW THINGS YOU NEED TO TAKE INTO CONSIDERATION WHEN INSTALLING AN ADJUSTABLE AIR SUSPENSION LIKE WE'RE GONNA BE RUNNING. ONE OF THOSE IS WHEEL AND TIRE CLEARANCE. NOW WE WENT AHEAD AND INSTALLED THE WHEELS AND TIRES THAT WE'RE GONNA BE RUNNING ON THE REAR OF OUR BIG OLE MERCURY. THESE AMERICAN RACING WHEELS WERE DREAMED UP BY FAMOUS AUTOMOTIVE ARTIST MAX GRUNDY, AND THEY'RE NAMED "STELLA". THEY'RE A MODERN INTERPRETATION OF CLASSIC WHEEL STYLES FROM THE '50'S WITH ALL THE ADVANTAGES OF MODERN TWO PIECE CONSTRUCTION AND FORGING PROCESSES. WE WRAPPED THEM WITH SOME MICKEY THOMPSON ET STREET SS'. THESE STICKY MICKEYS ARE A HIGH PERFORMANCE STREET TO STRIP RADIAL AND THEY'RE DOT APPROVED. NOW WE'VE GOT OUR REAR END AT FULL COMPRESSION, WHICH MEANS THE CAR IS AS LOW AS IT'S GONNA BE ON OUR AXLE. THERE'S PLENTY OF CLEARANCE IN THE FRONT, THE REAR, AND EVEN UP TOP, BUT WE NEED TO OPERATE THIS THING THROUGH ITS FULL RANGE OF MOTION TO MAKE SURE THERE'S CLEARANCE EVERYWHERE BECAUSE OF THE DESIGN OF THIS SUSPENSION, AS THE AXLE MOVES UP AND DOWN, IT'S GONNA MOVE FORWARD AND REAR OF THE VEHICLE.

(TOMMY)>> ALRIGHT GUYS, WE'VE GOT THE REAR MOCKED UP AS AIRED ALL THE WAY UP AND THEN SOME, AND WE'VE GOT ENOUGH CLEARANCE EXCEPT FOR

RIGHT HERE UP FRONT. IT'S A LITTLE BIT TIGHT BUT THAT WON'T EVER BE A PROBLEM BECAUSE THE CAR WON'T EVER BE AIRED UP THIS HIGH. JUST LIKE WE WERE TALKING ABOUT THE LINK BARS

CAUSING THE REAR TO MOVE, WE'VE GOT A PAN HARD BAR ON THIS THING TOO, AND IT CAUSES THE REAR TO MOVE LEFT TO RIGHT. LOOK WHAT IT DOES WHENEVER WE PUT THIS THING AT RIDE HEIGHT.

WHAT THAT DID IS GIVE US A LITTLE BIT MORE ROOM LIKE WHAT WE WERE NEEDING. NOW ANOTHER COMMON AREA THAT YOU'LL RUN INTO CLEARANCE ISSUES IS HERE AT THE DRIVESHAFT AND THE TUNNEL CAUSE WHENEVER THAT REAR STARTS TO GO UP SO DOES THE DRIVESHAFT. SO MAKE SURE TO CHECK IT OUT. WE'RE IN PRETTY GOOD SHAPE, SO WE CAN MOVE ON.

(MARC)>> THESE AIR SPRINGS, OR AIR BAGS AS THEY'RE COMMONLY KNOWN, ARE NOT A DIRECT REPLACEMENT.

THEY'RE ACTUALLY UNIVERSAL AND MOST OF THE TIME NEED TO BE ADAPTED TO FITTING YOUR APPLICATION. AS YOU CAN SEE HERE, THIS IS A SPRING OUT OF THE

REAR OF OUR MERCURY AND IT'S QUITE A BIT TALLER THAN THIS AIR SPRING, BUT WE CAN'T JUST TAKE THE MEASUREMENT HERE ON THE TABLE AND USE THAT TO MAKE OUR ADAPTERS. IT'S ACTUALLY A BIT MORE COMPLICATED THAN THAT AND IT HAS TO DO WITH THE SPECS OF THE SPRING. OURS HAVE A MAXIMUM HEIGHT OF 12.5 INCHES, WHICH IS FULL INFLATION. WHEN YOU DEFLATE IT, IT CAN BE COMPRESSED DOWN TO TWO POINT EIGHT INCHES. CLEARLY RIDE QUALITY WILL BE DIMINISHED DRASTICALLY AT BOTH MINIMUM AND MAXIMUM HEIGHT, BUT THERE IS A SWEET SPOT, WHICH IS BETWEEN SIX AND NINE

INCHES IN OVERALL HEIGHT. SO TO OPTIMIZE RIDE QUALITY WE'RE SHOOTING FOR RIGHT DOWN THE MIDDLE AT SEVEN AND A HALF INCHES.

(TOMMY)>> WE'VE GOT OUR REAR END SET AT RIDE HEIGHT, AND NOW IT'S TIME TO DO SOME MATH. WE KNOW OUR BAG WILL BE SEVEN AND A HALF INCHES

TALL, AND HERE WE HAVE NINE AND THREE QUARTER INCHES BETWEEN THE FRAME RAIL AND THIS PERCH. SO THAT MEANS WE'VE GOT TWO AND A QUARTER INCHES TO FILL.

(MARC)>> HEY WELCOME BACK. NOW TOMMY JUST FINISHED MEASURING ON THE REAR OF OUR MERCURY TO DETERMINE HOW MUCH OF A SPACER WE NEED BETWEEN OUR AIR SPRING AND SPRING PERCH. HE FIGURED OUT WE NEEDED TWO AND A QUARTER INCHES. NOW WE CAN PUT THAT ALL AT THE TOP OR ALL AT THE BOTTOM, OR WE COULD PUT SOME AT THE BOTTOM AND SOME AT THE TOP DEPENDING ON WHERE WE WANT THE SPRING TO LIVE. NOW FOR US WE WANT TO PUT IT ALL AT THE TOP, BUT WE ARE RUNNING THESE QUARTER INCH PLATES BOTH AT THE TOP AND THE BOTTOM. SO WE'LL JUST SUBTRACT A HALF INCH FROM OUR MEASUREMENT, LEAVING US WITH AN INCH AND THREE QUARTER, WHICH WE'RE GONNA CUT OUT OF THIS PIECE OF PIPE THAT WE GOT FROM A LOCAL STEEL YARD.

(TOMMY)>> WE'LL GO AHEAD AND BLAST OUR SPACER BECAUSE WE'RE GONNA BE DOING SOME WELDING ON IT.

THEN WE'LL GRAB THE TIG TORCH FROM OUR ESAB REBEL AGAIN AND GET IT TACKED TO OUR MOUNTING PLATE. WE'LL USE A HOLE SAW TO MAKE AN ACCESS HOLE THROUGH THE FRAME AND BODY HERE. THE REASON WE NEED TO DO THIS IS TO ALLOW A PATHWAY FOR THE AIR LINES, AS WELL AS ALLOWING ACCESS TO FASTEN THE MOUNTING BOLTS. [ DRILL SPINNING ]

(MARC)>> NOW WE'RE GONNA SET THE BAG IN PLACE FOR

A BIT OF A TEST SQUEEZE.

SO AS YOU CAN SEE HERE, AT FULL COMPRESSION, THERE'S A LOT OF SIDE LOAD ON THE BAG BECAUSE OF WHERE WE HAVE THIS MOUNTED. TO REMEDY THAT WE NEED TO MOVE THIS LOWER MOUNT BACK SOME AND TRY IT AGAIN.

IT MIGHT TAKE A FEW ATTEMPTS TO GET THIS LINED UP THE WAY IT NEEDS TO BE BUT IT'S IMPORTANT BECAUSE IF YOU DO IT WRONG YOU'RE GONNA ASSASSINATE YOU BAG. NOBODY LIKES THAT.

SO AFTER MOVING OUR LOWER SPRING MOUNT BACK SOME, WE WENT AHEAD AND COMPRESSED THE BAG AGAIN. AS YOU CAN SEE HERE IT'S A LOT STRAIGHTER. ANOTHER THING YOU NEED TO LOOK AT IS TO MAKE SURE THAT THE BAG DOESN'T HIT ANYWHERE HERE IN THE FRAME BECAUSE IF IT'S GONNA DO THAT, IT'LL DAMAGE THE BAG. SO NOW ALL WE NEED TO DO IS MARK WHERE THE UPPER MOUNT NEEDS TO WELD TO THE FRAME, TAKE IT ALL APART, WELD IT IN.

(TOMMY)>> WE'LL GET THE AREA PREPPED FOR WELDING WITH A SMALL GRINDER. THEN WE GET OUR UPPER MOUNTS BURNED INTO THE CAR. [ WELDER CRACKLING ]

(TOMMY)>> A LITTLE BLACK DUPLICOLOR WILL DRESS IT UP FOR US.

THEN WE CAN REINSERT THAT BIG OLE BAG.

WHILE MARC'S IN THE BACK FINISHING UP THAT REAR,

I'VE BEEN UP HERE DOING A LITTLE BIT OF PLUMBING. NOW THIS RIGHT HERE MAY LOOK A LITTLE BIT INTIMIDATING, BUT REALLY AND TRUTHFULLY IT'S JUST TIME CONSUMING. LET ME EXPLAIN IT TO YOU.

WE'VE GOT EIGHT INDIVIDUAL VALVES BUT REALLY AND TRUTHFULLY YOU HAVE ONLY FOUR CIRCUITS. YOU'VE GOT, LET'S SAY, THESE TWO FOR THE FRONT AND THESE TWO FOR THE REAR, AND HOW THIS WOULD WORK IS THERE'S COMPRESSED AIR INSIDE OF THE TANK. YOU TRIP THIS VALVE, AIR FLOWS THROUGH THERE, DOWN UP TO YOUR FRONT BAG. AND THEN LET'S SAY YOU WANT TO LET IT OUT.

IT WILL BACK FEED WHENEVER YOU TRIP THIS VALVE AND BACK OUT ALLOWING THE CAR TO GO DOWN. NOW TO WIRE THEM UP IT'S PRETTY SIMPLE. YOU'VE GOT A GROUND, AND THEN YOU'VE GOT A TRIGGER WIRE, AND THIS IS WHERE YOUR OPTIONS COME IN. YOU CAN WIRE THEM SO THAT YOU CAN CONTROL THEM ALL INDIVIDUALLY, MEANING IF YOU WANT ONE CORNER OF THE CAR OR YOU CAN, LET'S SAY, WIRE THEM IN PAIRS. SO THE FRONT COMES UP, FRONT GOES DOWN, SAME WITH THE REAR, OR LET'S SAY YOU CAN WIRE ALL FOUR OF THEM TOGETHER SO THE WHOLE CAR COMES UP OR THE WHOLE CAR GOES DOWN. IT ALL DEPENDS ON WHAT YOU WANT. NOW HERE ON TOP OF THE TANK WE INSTALLED A SCHRADER VALVE, AND THIS WILL ALLOW US TO PUT AIR IN IT JUST IN CASE WE EVER RUN INTO SOME KIND OF ISSUE. NOW ANOTHER THING THAT YOU WANT TO MAKE SURE TO INSTALL IS A DRAIN BECAUSE JUST LIKE YOUR COMPRESSOR

AT THE HOUSE, THIS THING WILL GET SOME MOISTURE IN IT AND YOU'LL NEED TO LET IT OUT. NOW TO OPERATE THE COMPRESSOR, OR TURN IT ON AND OFF, WE WENT AHEAD AND INSTALLED A PRESSURE SWITCH. WHAT THIS IS GONNA DO IS CUT IT ON AND OFF WITH A MAXIMUM PRESSURE OF 175. NOW SPEAKING OF THE COMPRESSOR, IT COME WITH A HOSE. YOU WANT TO MAKE SURE TO USE THIS ONE FOR A COUPLE OF REASONS. ONE OF THEM, IT'S GOT A CHECK VALVE. IT ALLOWS THE AIR TO GO IN BUT NOT HAVE TO FIGHT WITH

IT PUSHING UP AGAINST IT. SECOND OF ALL YOU WANT TO MAKE SURE TO USE THIS ONE BECAUSE THE AIR COMING OUT OF IT IS HOT. IF YOU USE THIS NYLON STUFF TO FEED THE TANK, IT'S GONNA MELT AND JUST GIVE YOU TROUBLES. NOW IT'S TIME TO MOUNT THIS THING INTO THE BACK OF THE CAR, LET'S GO.

(ANNOUNCER)>> AFTER THE BREAK IT'S TIME TO SEE WHAT THAT MASSIVE MERC LOOKS LIKE. ( )>> YEE, HAW!

(TOMMY)>> HEY GUYS, WHILE YOU WERE GONE WE GOT OUR TANK AND OUR PUMP MOUNTED HERE IN THE TRUNK. NOW WE'RE GONNA JUMP ON TOWARD THE FRONT AND GET ON IT. THEN WE CAN MOVE TO GETTING THIS THING PLUMBED UP.

(MARC)>> ALRIGHT, SO WE'VE ALREADY DONE THE OTHER SIDE. SO WE'VE GOT A PRETTY GOOD IDEA OF WHAT NEEDS TO BE DONE HERE IN THE FRONT TO GET OUR MERCURY LAID OUT ON THE GROUND. NOW WE'VE ALREADY REMOVED THE SPRING AND SHOCK AS WELL AS THE SWAY BAR, THE BRAKE CALIPER, AND THE TIE ROD. SO NOW IT'S TIME TO GET DIRTY.

WE NEED TO CUT OUT THIS OLD SPRING PERCH TO PROVIDE A GOOD SPOT TO ATTACH THE BOTTOM AIR SPRING MOUNT. OH THAT'S HOT! WE'RE ALSO GONNA CUT INTO THE FRAME RIGHT HERE TO MAKE ROOM FOR THE BAG ITSELF.

THAT'S HOT TOO!

THE UPPER SHOCK MOUNT GOES AWAY AS WELL TO ACCESS THE AIR LINES AND BOLTS. HOT!

(TOMMY)>> WE'RE GONNA GET AFTER THOSE CUT POINTS WITH A GRINDER TO MAKE THEM LOOK NICER. PLUS A BUNCH OF JAGGED EDGES NEXT TO A PRESSURIZED AIR BAG MIGHT MAKE THINGS A LITTLE

BIT TOO EXCITING. THIS OLD FUEL LINE AIN'T DOING NOTHING BUT SITTING IN THE WAY. A QUICK WHOOPING ON THIS SEAM WILL CLOSE UP THE HOLE AND ADD TO OUR CLEARANCE. WE NEED TO MAKE SURE WE HAVE ENOUGH ROOM FOR THE AIR SPRING WITH AT LEAST EIGHT INCHES EITHER DIRECTION. SINCE WE SLICED UP THE FRAME RIGHT HERE, WE'RE GONNA WELD IT BACK TOGETHER TO KEEP THINGS NICE AND STRONG. AFTER A LITTLE CLEAN UP WE CAN MOVE ON.

(MARC)>> TIME TO GET THAT UPPER MOUNT AND SPACER WELDED IN.

THE PLATE IS OFFSET SO THAT WE'LL HAVE PROPER

CLEARANCE WHEN THE BAG IS INSTALLED.

EVERYTHING CAN GO BACK TOGETHER NOW. LOOKS LIKE WE MIGHT NEED TO COME BACK LATER ON AND REPLACE THAT BALL JOINT. WE'LL DOUBLE CHECK OUR TRAVEL. THEN TACK THE BOTTOM MOUNT IN.

[ WELDER CRACKLING ]

(MARC)>> MAKE SURE YOU PULL THAT THING OUT BEFORE YOU WELD IT SOLID.

YOU DON'T WANT TO BURN YOUR BAG, MAN. [ WELDER CRACKLING ]

(TOMMY)>> ALRIGHT GUYS, WE'VE GOT EVERYTHING WIRED UP AND PLUMBED UP, AND IT'S READY TO SEE WHAT SHE'S GONNA LOOK LIKE SITTING ON THE GROUND. NOW ONE NICE THING ABOUT THAT ADJUSTABLE SUSPENSION IS YOU CAN RAISE IT UP AND LOWER IT DOWN DEPENDING ON YOUR PERSONALITY OF THE DAY. MISTER MARCUS, GO AHEAD AND LET'S SEE WHAT SHE LIKE.

(MARC)>> HERE WE GO! ( )>> YEE HAW!

(MARC)>> THAT'S IT, WOW, SHE'S LOW!

(TOMMY)>> ARE YOU LOOKING TO BUILD A NITROUS SYSTEM FOR YOUR OLD MUSCLE CAR? IF YOU ARE, A GREAT WAY TO MAKE IT HAPPEN IS WITH ONE OF THESE. IT'S A DIRECT PORT NITROUS INTAKE FROM EDELBROCK.

NOW EACH ONE OF THESE INCLUDE A VICTOR JUNIOR INTAKE, PERFORMANCE SERIES SOLENOIDS, HIGH FLOW LINES, AND NOZZLES. THIS ONE'S FOR A SMALL BLOCK CHEVY AND IT'S A CINCH TO INSTALL. ALL YOU HAVE TO DO IS RUN YOUR NITROUS AND FUEL

LINES TO IT AND TOP IT OFF WITH A GOOD CARBURETOR.

(MARC)>> ONE OF THE MOST CHEWED UP AND ABUSED PIECES OF SHEET METAL ON AN OLD CAR IS OFTEN THE VALENCES. MAYBE FROM TOO MANY BO DUKE MOMENTS BUT EITHER WAY IF YOU'VE GOT AN OLD PIECE OF DETROIT IRON, CHANCES ARE THOSE VALENCES NEED TO BE REPLACED. THIS ONE IS FOR A '71 CHARGER AND IT'S FROM AUTO METAL DIRECT. IT'S MADE FROM OE GAUGE STEEL AND IS AN AUTHENTIC LICENSED MOPAR RESTORATION PRODUCT. YOU CAN GET THEM FRONT AND REAR, AND WITH NOTCHES FOR EXHAUST TIPS IF YOU NEED THAT TOO. WELL THAT'S ALL THE TIME WE'VE GOT FOR TODAY, THANKS FOR STOPPING BY, WE'LL SEE YOU NEXT TIME.
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