More Overland Scout Episodes
XOR - Xtreme Off-Road Builds
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Edwards Ironworkers
The Edwards 55 Ton JAWS Ironworker is well suited to fit the needs of any fab shop, large or small.
Lincoln Electric
Lincoln Electric is the official welding supplier to XOR
Matco Tools
Matco Tools are the official tool supplier of XOR
The Industrial Depot
Tools, Hardware, and Shop Supplies
Video Transcript
(NARRATOR)>> TODAY ELIZA AND JEREMY ARE BUILDING CUSTOM BUMPERS FOR THEIR OVERLAND SCOUT. THEY'RE WELDING ALL THE PIECES TOGETHER, MAKING AND ADDING A STINGER TO THE FRONT, AND BUILDING A CUSTOM SPARE TIRE CARRIER FOR THE REAR. IT'S ALL RIGHT HERE ON XOR.
(JEREMY)>> HEY GUYS, WELCOME TO XOR. TODAY WE'RE BACK ON THE OVERLAND SCOUT AND WE'RE GONNA GO OVER SOMETHING THAT YOU GUYS PROBABLY ALL WANT TO TRY TO DO, AND THAT'S BUILD YOUR OWN CUSTOM BUMPERS. WELL YOU'VE ALL HEARD OF CAD WORK, OR COMPUTER AIDED DRAFTING. WELL HERE IN THE SHOP WE DO IT JUST A LITTLE BIT DIFFERENTLY. WE LIKE TO CALL OURS CARDBOARD AIDED DESIGN. THAT'S WHERE YOU SIMPLY TAKE SOME CARDBOARD, TAKE YOUR MEASUREMENTS, LAY IT ALL OUT, CUT IT OUT, TAPE IT UP, AND CHECK TO SEE IF IT ALL FITS. AND NOW OUR CAD WORK IS A WHOLE LOT CHEAPER THAN THE SOFTWARE VERSION, AND THIS STARTED OFF JUST LIKE THIS. THE COOL THING ABOUT IT IS IF YOU SCREW UP ALL YOU'VE GOT TO DO IS GO GET MORE CARDBOARD UNTIL YOU'RE HAPPY WITH YOUR DESIGN.
(ELIZA)>> NORMALLY WE'D CUT THE STEEL FOR OUR BUMPERS OURSELVES, BUT OUR BUDDIES AT WARD JET SAW WHAT WE WERE UP TO AND WANTED IN ON THE ACTION. THEY CUT THESE FROM QUARTER INCH STEEL, AND THE COOL THING IS THEY CUSTOMIZED IT FOR US.
(JEREMY)>> WELL THE FIRST STEP IN ASSEMBLING OUR BUMPERS WAS TO MOUNT THE BACK PLATE. WELL I ALREADY WENT AHEAD AND MEASURED AND SQUARED THIS UP, AND I MARKED THE HOLES FROM THE BACK SIDE. SO ALL I HAVE TO DO NOW IS TAKE THIS DOWN, DRILL BOTH HOLES OUT.
WE'RE USING OUR EDWARDS IRON WORKER TO CLEANLY PUNCH HOLES IN OUR BACK PLATE.
THE HOLES I USED TO MARK OUR NEW BACK PLATE WERE ACTUALLY FOR THE ORIGINAL REAR BUMPER BOLTS.
WE'RE USING GRADE EIGHT HARDWARE CAUSE NOT ONLY IS OUR BUMPER GOING TO WEIGH OVER 200 POUNDS, IT'S GONNA NEED TO BE ABLE TO TOW ANYTHING WE WANT TO DRAG ALONG WITH US. [ drill spinning ]
(JEREMY)>> THE FIRST PIECE OF OUR BUMPER PUZZLE IS THE BACK CORNER PLATES. THIS EXTENSION WILL GET OUR BUMPER AWAY FROM THE SCOUT'S LOWER QUARTERS. UP NEXT IS ONE OF THE TWO TOP PLATES. [ welder crackling ]
(JEREMY)>> AND WE'RE GONNA REPEAT THAT PROCESS ON THE OTHER SIDE. [ welder crackling ]
(JEREMY)>> NOW WE JUST TACKED THESE PIECES ON THE BUMPER TO CHECK FOR FITMENT, LIKE AROUND THE QUARTER AND WITH THE TAILGATE DOWN, BUT IT'S GONNA BE A LOT EASIER TO BUILD THE BUMPER ON A BENCH. THAT WAY WE CAN MOVE IT ANYWAY WE NEED TO. SO WE'RE GONNA TAKE THIS OFF, THROW IT ON THE BENCH, AND KEEP WELDING.
A WELDING TABLE CAN REALLY BE YOUR FRIEND ON A PROJECT LIKE THIS. WITH ALL ITS HOLES IT'S DESIGN SO YOU CAN CLAMP YOUR PIECE DOWN AND USE MAGNETS OR ANY OTHER ASSORTMENT OF SPECIALIZED TOOLS DESIGNED TO FIT THE TABLE.
IT'S ABOUT NINE INCHES, AND THAT'S THE WIDTH OF THE BOTTOM PLATE.
THE BEST PART IS YOU DON'T HAVE TO CONSTANTLY MOVE YOUR WELDER'S GROUND CLAMP AROUND THE PIECE SINCE GROUNDING IS TRANSFERRED RIGHT THROUGH THE TABLE.
STILL AT NINE.
WITH THE BOTTOM AND THE FACE ATTACHED, WE'LL FLIP THE BUMPER UPSIDE DOWN ON THE TABLE SO WE CAN KEEP ASSEMBLING THE PUZZLE. [ welder crackling ]
[ welder crackling ]
(JEREMY)>> IT LOOKS LIKE THE PIECES ARE NOT QUITE LINING UP AND WE'RE LEAVING A BIG GAP ON THE EDGES. WELL THIS IS INTENTIONAL. WE'RE GONNA BE DOING A HEFTY CORNER WELD THAT'LL GIVE THE BUMPER ITS STRENGTH AND GIVE IT A MACHINE WELDED LOOK. [ welder crackling ]
(JEREMY)>> THE ONLY PIECE WE DIDN'T BOTHER TO MAKE WAS THE RECEIVER MOUNT. THESE ARE EASY TO FIND, AND A GOOD DEAL COMPARED TO THE TIME IT WOULD TAKE YOU TO MAKE ONE. THIS SEVEN INCH RECESS IN THE CENTER WAS DESIGNED TO ALLOW ROOM FOR THE SPARE TIRE TO SIT LOWER ON THE FINISHED BUMPER. [ welder crackling ]
(ELIZA)>> ALL RIGHT, WE'RE SECURED!
(JEREMY)>> AND NOW THAT WE KNOW THIS ALL FITS WE CAN GO AHEAD AND BURN ALL THE EDGES IN. WE'RE ALSO GONNA ADD SOME BRACKETS CAUSE WE WANT TO TIE THIS DIRECTLY INTO THE CHASSIS CAUSE WE'RE DEFINITELY GONNA BE DOING SOME TOWING WITH IT.
(NARRATOR)>> UP NEXT WE BUILD UP OUR FRONT BUMPER, AND LATER WE'LL MAKE A HEAVY DUTY SPARE TIRE CARRIER.
(ELIZA)>> HEY, WELCOME BACK TO THE SHOP. WE'RE GETTING READY TO ASSEMBLE OUR FRONT BUMPER, BUT IN ORDER TO DO THAT WE NEED TO HAVE OUR UPPER TIE BAR AND GRILL IN PLACE.
WHEN WE WERE COMING UP WITH A DESIGN FOR OUR FRONT BUMPER WE MADE SURE THAT WE HAD ENOUGH WIDTH UP TOP TO ACCOMMODATE A WINCH. NOW THIS IS GONNA GET A STINGER AND AN AREA FOR LIGHTS, BUT BEFORE WE CAN MEASURE ANY OF THAT OUT WE'VE GOT TO GET IT TACKED UP.
THIS TIME WE ARE BEGINNING THE ASSEMBLY OF OUR BUMPER PUZZLE WITH THE TOP PLATE. IT GETS BOLTED TO THE FRONT CROSS MEMBER. AGAIN, WE ARE USING GRADE EIGHT HARDWARE BECAUSE LIKE THE REAR BUMPER WILL BE USED FOR TOWING, THIS BUMPER WILL BE OUR MAIN WINCHING POINT. WE WILL ALSO BE WELDING IN SLEEVES TO THE FRONT CROSS MEMBER FOR ADDED STRENGTH TO THESE MOUNTING POINTS. LIKE ON THE WELDING TABLE, OUR LINCOLN ELECTRIC ANGLE MAGNETS COME IN VERY HANDY WHEN THEY'RE LINING OUR BUMPER PIECES. [ welder crackling ]
(ELIZA)>> KEEP IN MIND, AFTER THE INITIAL WELDING IS DONE WE'LL NEED TO COME BACK AND ADD MORE MOUNTING POINTS THAT REINFORCE THE BUMPER BY TYING IT INTO OUR SCOUT'S FRAME. [ welder crackling ]
(ELIZA)>> WE LOVE THE XOR LOGO WARD JET CUT OUT INTO THE FRONT PLATE, AND WE'VE GOT SOME PRETTY COOL IDEAS FOR LIGHTING IT UP WHEN THE RIG IS DONE. [ welder crackling ]
(ELIZA)>> AND JUST LIKE THE REAR, THE WELDING TABLE IS THE PERFECT PLACE TO FINISH WELDING THE MAIN STRUCTURE OF OUR FRONT BUMPER. [ welder crackling ]
(ELIZA)>> WITH OUR BUMPER COMPLETELY WELDED UP AND INSTALLED ONTO THE TRACK WE CAN NOW BEGIN MOUNTING OUR WINCH.
IT'S ALWAYS A GOOD IDEA TO BE AS SELF SUFFICIENT AS YOU CAN WITH VEHICLE RECOVERY. ON AN OVERLAND VEHICLE LIKE OUR SCOUT A WINCH CAN REALLY COME IN HANDY. YOU NEVER KNOW WHAT TERRAIN YOU'LL ENCOUNTER ON THE TRAIL, WHAT OBSTACLES MAY BE BLOCK YOUR PATH, OR WHO YOU MAY FIND STRANDED ALONG THE WAY. [ drill spinning ]
(JEREMY)>> AND WITH THIS BOLTED DOWN WE CAN GO AHEAD AND GET OUR MEASUREMENTS FOR OUR STINGER. LOOKS LIKE ABOUT 30 INCHES.
(ELIZA)>> A STINGER IS A TALL METAL HOOP THAT PROTRUDES FORWARD TO KEEP AN OFF ROAD RIG FROM GOING OVER ON ITS NOSE WHILE DESCENDING DOWN A STEEP INCLINE. THING OF IT LIKE A WHEELIE BAR ON THE BACK OF A DRAG CAR, ONLY INSTEAD OF KEEPING THE CAR FROM FLIPPING OVER BACKWARDS THE STINGER BAR KEEPS US FROM FLIPPING FORWARD. FOR OUR STINGER WE'RE USING A FIVE FOOT PIECE OF HEAVY WALL INCH AND THREE QUARTER TUBING BENT AROUND A SIX INCH RADIUS DYE TO POSITION THE LEGS OF THE STINGER 36 INCHES APART.
[ welder crackling ]
(JEREMY)>> THAT SHOULD HOLD IT.
(NARRATOR)>> WHEN WE COME BACK WE'LL START BUILDING OUR SPARE TIRE CARRIER, STAY TUNED!
(JEREMY)>> HEY GUYS, WELCOME BACK TO XOR. NOW THERE'S ONE THING YOU'RE GONNA NEED WHEN YOU'RE OUT ON THE TRAIL, AND THAT'S A SPARE TIRE. WE DON'T HAVE A LOT OF PLACES TO PUT THE SPARE TIRE ON THE SCOUT. SO WE'RE GONNA GO AHEAD AND BUILD A SWING AWAY SPARE TIRE CARRIER. THAT WAY WE CAN STILL ACCESS THE TAILGATE, AND THIS PIECE IS GONNA GET US THERE. WHEN WE HIT THE TRAILS WITH OUR SCOUT THERE'S GONNA BE A LOT OF DUST, DIRT, AND DEBRIS FLYING AROUND, AND THIS SPINDLE IS 100 PERCENT SEALED FROM MOTHER NATURE. INSIDE ARE TWO TAPERED ROLLER BEARINGS THAT ARE GREASEABLE AND SERVICEABLE. THE TOP'S GOT A DUST CAP, THE BOTTOM'S GOT A SEAL. THE FIRST STEP INTO GETTING THE SPINDLE ON OUR BUMPER IS TO JUST WELD IT IN. WE DRILLED OUR HOLE COMPLETELY THROUGH THE TOP AND BOTTOM OF THE BUMPER, AND AFTER WE SQUARED IT UP A COUPLE OF TACKS HOLD IT IN PLACE. MAKE SURE YOU REMOVE YOUR BEARING BEFORE YOU WELD IT ALL IN. [ welder crackling ]
(JEREMY)>> NEXT WE'LL MEASURE FOR THE SWING AWAY BAR ITSELF. THE LENGTH SHOULD BE ABOUT FIVE FEET.
FOR OUR SWING AWAY BAR WE'RE USING HEAVY WALL RECTANGULAR TUBING THAT MEASURES TWO INCHES BY THREE INCHES.
[ saw cutting metal ]
(JEREMY)>> NOW WE WENT AHEAD AND PUT THE SLEEVE BACK ON THE SPINDLE. WE PUT THE BEARINGS IN IT SO IT LINES UP CORRECTLY, BUT WE DIDN'T INSTALL THE LOWER SEAL CAUSE WE'RE GONNA END UP PILING A BUNCH OF HEAT IN THIS WHEN WE TACK THE BAR ONTO THE SLEEVE. WE ALSO PUT THE DUST CAP ON IT TO KEEP ANYTHING FROM GETTING INSIDE. WE NEEDED TO RAISE THE BAR UP ON OUR SPINDLE. WE'RE USING A COUPLE NUTS THAT MEASURE ABOUT AN INCH TO GET THE JOB DONE AND KEEP IT ALL LEVEL.
[ welder cracking ]
(JEREMY)>> AND NOW THAT WE HAVE THE BAR WELDED TO THE SPINDLE WE NEED TO FIND A WAY TO KEEP THIS ALL CLOSED. WELL HERE'S WHAT WE CAME UP WITH. WE WENT AND GRABBED SOME CHASSIS TABS AND A BUSHING, AND THIS IS A SHOCK MOUNT. WHAT WE'RE GONNA DO IS WELD ALL OF THIS TOGETHER. NOW THE BUSHING'S GONNA ROTATE, ALLOWING OUR SHOCK MOUNT TO FOLD AWAY. WHEN WE'RE DONE WE'LL FOLD IT BACK DOWN, DRILL A HOLE, SLIDE THE PIN IN. THAT SHOULD KEEP EVERYBODY IN PLACE. WE MADE A NOTCH IN THE SHOCK MOUNT TO GIVE IT A LITTLE MORE SURFACE AREA WHEN WE WELD. THEN WE TACKED IT ALL IN PLACE.
[ drill spinning ]
(JEREMY)>> WE'RE USING THE SAME THREE BIT APPROACH TO GET TO THE FINAL SIZE OF OUR HITCH PIN.
[ drill spinning ]
(JEREMY)>> THIS MATERIAL'S PRETTY HEAVY. YOU'RE GONNA NEED A HIGH TORQUE DRILL TO GET THE JOB DONE.
[ drill spinning ]
(JEREMY)>> AND WITH THE SPARE TIRE CARRIER LOCKED INTO POSITION, WE WENT AHEAD AND BENT SOME PIPE BECAUSE WE ACTUALLY HAVE TO MOUNT THE TIRE TO THIS WHOLE THING. WE'VE GOT OUR PLATE THAT ACTUALLY BOLTS RIGHT TO THE BACK OF THE SPARE TIRE. I'VE GOT A COUPLE OF MORE PIECES OF PIPE THAT WE CUT AND NOTCHED, AND THEN OBVIOUSLY WE PUT ONE ACROSS HERE. SO WE MUST MADE THE LOOP, AND ALL OF THIS IS GONNA FIT TOGETHER KINDA LIKE SUCH. OUR SPARE TIRE'S GONNA BOLT RIGHT ONTO HERE. WHEN WE'RE ALL DONE, WE'RE GONNA SWING THIS ALL OUT OF THE WAY TO LOWER THE TAILGATE.
(NARRATOR)>> AFTER THE BREAK WE'LL GET OUR BUMPER ALL FINISHED UP, STICK AROUND!
(JEREMY)>> HEY GUYS, WELCOME BACK TO XOR AND THE SPARE TIRE CARRIER BUILD ON OUR OVERLAND SCOUT. NOW OUR SPARE TIRE TIPS THE SCALES AT JUST OVER 100 POUNDS. YOU ADD ALL THAT BOUNCING WEIGHT WHEN WE'RE OUT ON THE TRAILS, WE KNOW OUR CARRIER'S GONNA HAVE TO BE PLENTY STRONG.
(ELIZA)>> WE FABRICATED THE HOOP FOR OUR SPARE TIRE CARRIER THE SAME WAY AND WITH THE SAME MATERIAL THAT WE BUILT OUR STINGER. WE JUST SCALED THE OVERALL SIZE DOWN A LITTLE.
[ welder crackling ]
(ELIZA)>> SINCE WE COULDN'T FIT A LEVEL ON THE CENTER SUPPORT BAR, WE CHECKED TO MAKE SURE IT WAS LEVEL THE OLD FASHIONED WAY.
THEN WE CONFIRMED IT WITH A REAL LEVEL.
[ welder crackling ]
(ELIZA)>> THEN WE MEASURED FOR CENTER TO ADD THE EXTENSION THAT'LL HOLD OUR TIRE MOUNT. [ welder crackling ]
(ELIZA)>> LIKE OUR HITCH RECEIVER IN THE REAR BUMPER, SPARE TIRE MOUNT PLATES LIKE THE ONE WE ARE USING CAN BE FOUND PREFABRICATED AND WILL SAVE YOU A LOT OF BUILD TIME. [ welder cracking ]
(ELIZA)>> WE'RE GOING TO ADD SEVERAL ADDITIONAL SUPPORTS TO BETTER DISTRIBUTE THE LOAD WHEN THE TRAIL GETS ROUGH BECAUSE, LIKE WE SHOWED YOU, OUR SPARE TIRE IS PRETTY HEAVY.
[ welder crackling ]
(JEREMY)>> WITH OUR TUBES TACKED ON AND OUR SPARE TIRE IN PLACE, ALL WE HAVE TO DO IS A LITTLE SWING TEST. WORKS LIKE BUTTER! ALL WE'VE GOT TO DO NOW IS TAKE IT ALL APART, WELD EVERYTHING UP.
HEY GUYS, I THOUGHT WE'D TAKE A LITTLE TIME AND GO OVER SOMETHING THAT A LOT OF US DON'T REALLY ENJOY DOING, AND THAT'S RUNNING BRAKE LINES, FLARING BRAKE LINES, AND BENDING BRAKE LINES. SO TODAY WE'RE GONNA SHOW YOU A COUPLE OF TIPS AND TRICKS AND HOPEFULLY MAKE THIS A WHOLE LOT LESS PAINFUL. THERE'S A COUPLE OF DIFFERENT THINGS YOU'RE GONNA NEED TO GET STARTED. A GOOD CUTOFF TOOL, A COUPLE DIFFERENT TYPES OF BENDERS, AND A VARIETY OF FLAT FILES. NOW FIRST WE'RE GONNA GO OVER HOW TO BEND YOUR BRAKE LINES. NOW WE ALL KNOW WHAT HAPPENS WHEN YOU TRY TO BEND A BRAKE LINE BY HAND. YOU GET A KINK. THAT'S WHY A GOOD SET OF BENDERS ARE GONNA COME IN HANDY. FIRST IS YOUR PLIER STYLE BENDER. THESE WORK GREAT WHEN YOU'RE UNDERNEATH YOUR PROJECT AND DON'T HAVE A LOT OF ROOM. THEY ALSO MAKE A VERY TIGHT RADIUS. AND SECONDLY IS AN ARM STYLE BENDER THAT HAS THREE DIFFERENT SIZED HEADS. NOW THESE WORK GOOD WHEN YOUR BRAKE LINES ARE NOT INSTALLED IN YOUR PROJECT, AND THEY MAKE A NICE, CLEAN BEND. AND ANOTHER TOOL YOU'RE GONNA NEED IS A GOOD BRAKE LINE CUTTER. NOW THESE ACTUALLY SERVE TWO DIFFERENT PURPOSES. ONE IS THE ACTUAL WHEEL THAT WILL CUT YOUR BRAKE LINE, AND THE OTHER IS THE POINT THAT WILL TAKE THE BURR OUT FROM THE INSIDE OF YOUR BRAKE LINE. WHEN YOU GO TO CUT YOUR BRAKE LINE PUT LIGHT PRESSURE ON THE CUTOFF WHEEL AND SLOWLY TIGHTEN AS YOU MAKE REVOLUTIONS. TAKING THE BURR OUR FROM THE INSIDE OF YOUR BRAKE LINE ALLOWS YOU TO MAKE THE PERFECT FLARE.
AND A GOOD FLAT FILE JUST TRUES UP YOUR EDGE.
THERE'S MANY DIFFERENT TYPES OF FLARING TOOLS OUT THERE. THERE'S THE STANDARD ONE THAT EVERYBODY HAS, THE ARM AND COMPRESSION STYLE ONE, AND THE HYDRAULIC STYLE ONE. WE'RE GONNA SHOW YOU HOW TO MAKE A FLARE WITH THE COMPRESSION STYLE ONE. WITH THE TOOL MOUNTED IN THE VICE AND THE CORRECT FLARE FORMING DYE SELECTED AND SECURED, WE FIRST HAVE TO SET THE PROPER DEPTH OF THE BRAKE LINE.
WITH THE LINE IN THE CORRECT POSITION AND SECURED, WE ROTATE THE DYE HEAD TO THE SIZE THAT MATCHES THE BRAKE LINE DIAMETER AND FIRST FORM WHAT'S CALLED A BUBBLE FLARE. LASTLY WE ROTATE THE HEAD TO SELECT THE 45 DEGREE INVERTED FLARE DYE TO COMPLETE THE END OF OUR BRAKE LINE.
(ELIZA)>> HEY GUYS, THANK YOU FOR WATCHING. IF YOU HAVE ANY QUESTIONS ABOUT WHAT YOU SAW ON TODAY'S SHOW VISIT US AT POWERNATION TV DOT COM AND WE'LL SEE YOU NEXT TIME.
Show Full Transcript
(JEREMY)>> HEY GUYS, WELCOME TO XOR. TODAY WE'RE BACK ON THE OVERLAND SCOUT AND WE'RE GONNA GO OVER SOMETHING THAT YOU GUYS PROBABLY ALL WANT TO TRY TO DO, AND THAT'S BUILD YOUR OWN CUSTOM BUMPERS. WELL YOU'VE ALL HEARD OF CAD WORK, OR COMPUTER AIDED DRAFTING. WELL HERE IN THE SHOP WE DO IT JUST A LITTLE BIT DIFFERENTLY. WE LIKE TO CALL OURS CARDBOARD AIDED DESIGN. THAT'S WHERE YOU SIMPLY TAKE SOME CARDBOARD, TAKE YOUR MEASUREMENTS, LAY IT ALL OUT, CUT IT OUT, TAPE IT UP, AND CHECK TO SEE IF IT ALL FITS. AND NOW OUR CAD WORK IS A WHOLE LOT CHEAPER THAN THE SOFTWARE VERSION, AND THIS STARTED OFF JUST LIKE THIS. THE COOL THING ABOUT IT IS IF YOU SCREW UP ALL YOU'VE GOT TO DO IS GO GET MORE CARDBOARD UNTIL YOU'RE HAPPY WITH YOUR DESIGN.
(ELIZA)>> NORMALLY WE'D CUT THE STEEL FOR OUR BUMPERS OURSELVES, BUT OUR BUDDIES AT WARD JET SAW WHAT WE WERE UP TO AND WANTED IN ON THE ACTION. THEY CUT THESE FROM QUARTER INCH STEEL, AND THE COOL THING IS THEY CUSTOMIZED IT FOR US.
(JEREMY)>> WELL THE FIRST STEP IN ASSEMBLING OUR BUMPERS WAS TO MOUNT THE BACK PLATE. WELL I ALREADY WENT AHEAD AND MEASURED AND SQUARED THIS UP, AND I MARKED THE HOLES FROM THE BACK SIDE. SO ALL I HAVE TO DO NOW IS TAKE THIS DOWN, DRILL BOTH HOLES OUT.
WE'RE USING OUR EDWARDS IRON WORKER TO CLEANLY PUNCH HOLES IN OUR BACK PLATE.
THE HOLES I USED TO MARK OUR NEW BACK PLATE WERE ACTUALLY FOR THE ORIGINAL REAR BUMPER BOLTS.
WE'RE USING GRADE EIGHT HARDWARE CAUSE NOT ONLY IS OUR BUMPER GOING TO WEIGH OVER 200 POUNDS, IT'S GONNA NEED TO BE ABLE TO TOW ANYTHING WE WANT TO DRAG ALONG WITH US. [ drill spinning ]
(JEREMY)>> THE FIRST PIECE OF OUR BUMPER PUZZLE IS THE BACK CORNER PLATES. THIS EXTENSION WILL GET OUR BUMPER AWAY FROM THE SCOUT'S LOWER QUARTERS. UP NEXT IS ONE OF THE TWO TOP PLATES. [ welder crackling ]
(JEREMY)>> AND WE'RE GONNA REPEAT THAT PROCESS ON THE OTHER SIDE. [ welder crackling ]
(JEREMY)>> NOW WE JUST TACKED THESE PIECES ON THE BUMPER TO CHECK FOR FITMENT, LIKE AROUND THE QUARTER AND WITH THE TAILGATE DOWN, BUT IT'S GONNA BE A LOT EASIER TO BUILD THE BUMPER ON A BENCH. THAT WAY WE CAN MOVE IT ANYWAY WE NEED TO. SO WE'RE GONNA TAKE THIS OFF, THROW IT ON THE BENCH, AND KEEP WELDING.
A WELDING TABLE CAN REALLY BE YOUR FRIEND ON A PROJECT LIKE THIS. WITH ALL ITS HOLES IT'S DESIGN SO YOU CAN CLAMP YOUR PIECE DOWN AND USE MAGNETS OR ANY OTHER ASSORTMENT OF SPECIALIZED TOOLS DESIGNED TO FIT THE TABLE.
IT'S ABOUT NINE INCHES, AND THAT'S THE WIDTH OF THE BOTTOM PLATE.
THE BEST PART IS YOU DON'T HAVE TO CONSTANTLY MOVE YOUR WELDER'S GROUND CLAMP AROUND THE PIECE SINCE GROUNDING IS TRANSFERRED RIGHT THROUGH THE TABLE.
STILL AT NINE.
WITH THE BOTTOM AND THE FACE ATTACHED, WE'LL FLIP THE BUMPER UPSIDE DOWN ON THE TABLE SO WE CAN KEEP ASSEMBLING THE PUZZLE. [ welder crackling ]
[ welder crackling ]
(JEREMY)>> IT LOOKS LIKE THE PIECES ARE NOT QUITE LINING UP AND WE'RE LEAVING A BIG GAP ON THE EDGES. WELL THIS IS INTENTIONAL. WE'RE GONNA BE DOING A HEFTY CORNER WELD THAT'LL GIVE THE BUMPER ITS STRENGTH AND GIVE IT A MACHINE WELDED LOOK. [ welder crackling ]
(JEREMY)>> THE ONLY PIECE WE DIDN'T BOTHER TO MAKE WAS THE RECEIVER MOUNT. THESE ARE EASY TO FIND, AND A GOOD DEAL COMPARED TO THE TIME IT WOULD TAKE YOU TO MAKE ONE. THIS SEVEN INCH RECESS IN THE CENTER WAS DESIGNED TO ALLOW ROOM FOR THE SPARE TIRE TO SIT LOWER ON THE FINISHED BUMPER. [ welder crackling ]
(ELIZA)>> ALL RIGHT, WE'RE SECURED!
(JEREMY)>> AND NOW THAT WE KNOW THIS ALL FITS WE CAN GO AHEAD AND BURN ALL THE EDGES IN. WE'RE ALSO GONNA ADD SOME BRACKETS CAUSE WE WANT TO TIE THIS DIRECTLY INTO THE CHASSIS CAUSE WE'RE DEFINITELY GONNA BE DOING SOME TOWING WITH IT.
(NARRATOR)>> UP NEXT WE BUILD UP OUR FRONT BUMPER, AND LATER WE'LL MAKE A HEAVY DUTY SPARE TIRE CARRIER.
(ELIZA)>> HEY, WELCOME BACK TO THE SHOP. WE'RE GETTING READY TO ASSEMBLE OUR FRONT BUMPER, BUT IN ORDER TO DO THAT WE NEED TO HAVE OUR UPPER TIE BAR AND GRILL IN PLACE.
WHEN WE WERE COMING UP WITH A DESIGN FOR OUR FRONT BUMPER WE MADE SURE THAT WE HAD ENOUGH WIDTH UP TOP TO ACCOMMODATE A WINCH. NOW THIS IS GONNA GET A STINGER AND AN AREA FOR LIGHTS, BUT BEFORE WE CAN MEASURE ANY OF THAT OUT WE'VE GOT TO GET IT TACKED UP.
THIS TIME WE ARE BEGINNING THE ASSEMBLY OF OUR BUMPER PUZZLE WITH THE TOP PLATE. IT GETS BOLTED TO THE FRONT CROSS MEMBER. AGAIN, WE ARE USING GRADE EIGHT HARDWARE BECAUSE LIKE THE REAR BUMPER WILL BE USED FOR TOWING, THIS BUMPER WILL BE OUR MAIN WINCHING POINT. WE WILL ALSO BE WELDING IN SLEEVES TO THE FRONT CROSS MEMBER FOR ADDED STRENGTH TO THESE MOUNTING POINTS. LIKE ON THE WELDING TABLE, OUR LINCOLN ELECTRIC ANGLE MAGNETS COME IN VERY HANDY WHEN THEY'RE LINING OUR BUMPER PIECES. [ welder crackling ]
(ELIZA)>> KEEP IN MIND, AFTER THE INITIAL WELDING IS DONE WE'LL NEED TO COME BACK AND ADD MORE MOUNTING POINTS THAT REINFORCE THE BUMPER BY TYING IT INTO OUR SCOUT'S FRAME. [ welder crackling ]
(ELIZA)>> WE LOVE THE XOR LOGO WARD JET CUT OUT INTO THE FRONT PLATE, AND WE'VE GOT SOME PRETTY COOL IDEAS FOR LIGHTING IT UP WHEN THE RIG IS DONE. [ welder crackling ]
(ELIZA)>> AND JUST LIKE THE REAR, THE WELDING TABLE IS THE PERFECT PLACE TO FINISH WELDING THE MAIN STRUCTURE OF OUR FRONT BUMPER. [ welder crackling ]
(ELIZA)>> WITH OUR BUMPER COMPLETELY WELDED UP AND INSTALLED ONTO THE TRACK WE CAN NOW BEGIN MOUNTING OUR WINCH.
IT'S ALWAYS A GOOD IDEA TO BE AS SELF SUFFICIENT AS YOU CAN WITH VEHICLE RECOVERY. ON AN OVERLAND VEHICLE LIKE OUR SCOUT A WINCH CAN REALLY COME IN HANDY. YOU NEVER KNOW WHAT TERRAIN YOU'LL ENCOUNTER ON THE TRAIL, WHAT OBSTACLES MAY BE BLOCK YOUR PATH, OR WHO YOU MAY FIND STRANDED ALONG THE WAY. [ drill spinning ]
(JEREMY)>> AND WITH THIS BOLTED DOWN WE CAN GO AHEAD AND GET OUR MEASUREMENTS FOR OUR STINGER. LOOKS LIKE ABOUT 30 INCHES.
(ELIZA)>> A STINGER IS A TALL METAL HOOP THAT PROTRUDES FORWARD TO KEEP AN OFF ROAD RIG FROM GOING OVER ON ITS NOSE WHILE DESCENDING DOWN A STEEP INCLINE. THING OF IT LIKE A WHEELIE BAR ON THE BACK OF A DRAG CAR, ONLY INSTEAD OF KEEPING THE CAR FROM FLIPPING OVER BACKWARDS THE STINGER BAR KEEPS US FROM FLIPPING FORWARD. FOR OUR STINGER WE'RE USING A FIVE FOOT PIECE OF HEAVY WALL INCH AND THREE QUARTER TUBING BENT AROUND A SIX INCH RADIUS DYE TO POSITION THE LEGS OF THE STINGER 36 INCHES APART.
[ welder crackling ]
(JEREMY)>> THAT SHOULD HOLD IT.
(NARRATOR)>> WHEN WE COME BACK WE'LL START BUILDING OUR SPARE TIRE CARRIER, STAY TUNED!
(JEREMY)>> HEY GUYS, WELCOME BACK TO XOR. NOW THERE'S ONE THING YOU'RE GONNA NEED WHEN YOU'RE OUT ON THE TRAIL, AND THAT'S A SPARE TIRE. WE DON'T HAVE A LOT OF PLACES TO PUT THE SPARE TIRE ON THE SCOUT. SO WE'RE GONNA GO AHEAD AND BUILD A SWING AWAY SPARE TIRE CARRIER. THAT WAY WE CAN STILL ACCESS THE TAILGATE, AND THIS PIECE IS GONNA GET US THERE. WHEN WE HIT THE TRAILS WITH OUR SCOUT THERE'S GONNA BE A LOT OF DUST, DIRT, AND DEBRIS FLYING AROUND, AND THIS SPINDLE IS 100 PERCENT SEALED FROM MOTHER NATURE. INSIDE ARE TWO TAPERED ROLLER BEARINGS THAT ARE GREASEABLE AND SERVICEABLE. THE TOP'S GOT A DUST CAP, THE BOTTOM'S GOT A SEAL. THE FIRST STEP INTO GETTING THE SPINDLE ON OUR BUMPER IS TO JUST WELD IT IN. WE DRILLED OUR HOLE COMPLETELY THROUGH THE TOP AND BOTTOM OF THE BUMPER, AND AFTER WE SQUARED IT UP A COUPLE OF TACKS HOLD IT IN PLACE. MAKE SURE YOU REMOVE YOUR BEARING BEFORE YOU WELD IT ALL IN. [ welder crackling ]
(JEREMY)>> NEXT WE'LL MEASURE FOR THE SWING AWAY BAR ITSELF. THE LENGTH SHOULD BE ABOUT FIVE FEET.
FOR OUR SWING AWAY BAR WE'RE USING HEAVY WALL RECTANGULAR TUBING THAT MEASURES TWO INCHES BY THREE INCHES.
[ saw cutting metal ]
(JEREMY)>> NOW WE WENT AHEAD AND PUT THE SLEEVE BACK ON THE SPINDLE. WE PUT THE BEARINGS IN IT SO IT LINES UP CORRECTLY, BUT WE DIDN'T INSTALL THE LOWER SEAL CAUSE WE'RE GONNA END UP PILING A BUNCH OF HEAT IN THIS WHEN WE TACK THE BAR ONTO THE SLEEVE. WE ALSO PUT THE DUST CAP ON IT TO KEEP ANYTHING FROM GETTING INSIDE. WE NEEDED TO RAISE THE BAR UP ON OUR SPINDLE. WE'RE USING A COUPLE NUTS THAT MEASURE ABOUT AN INCH TO GET THE JOB DONE AND KEEP IT ALL LEVEL.
[ welder cracking ]
(JEREMY)>> AND NOW THAT WE HAVE THE BAR WELDED TO THE SPINDLE WE NEED TO FIND A WAY TO KEEP THIS ALL CLOSED. WELL HERE'S WHAT WE CAME UP WITH. WE WENT AND GRABBED SOME CHASSIS TABS AND A BUSHING, AND THIS IS A SHOCK MOUNT. WHAT WE'RE GONNA DO IS WELD ALL OF THIS TOGETHER. NOW THE BUSHING'S GONNA ROTATE, ALLOWING OUR SHOCK MOUNT TO FOLD AWAY. WHEN WE'RE DONE WE'LL FOLD IT BACK DOWN, DRILL A HOLE, SLIDE THE PIN IN. THAT SHOULD KEEP EVERYBODY IN PLACE. WE MADE A NOTCH IN THE SHOCK MOUNT TO GIVE IT A LITTLE MORE SURFACE AREA WHEN WE WELD. THEN WE TACKED IT ALL IN PLACE.
[ drill spinning ]
(JEREMY)>> WE'RE USING THE SAME THREE BIT APPROACH TO GET TO THE FINAL SIZE OF OUR HITCH PIN.
[ drill spinning ]
(JEREMY)>> THIS MATERIAL'S PRETTY HEAVY. YOU'RE GONNA NEED A HIGH TORQUE DRILL TO GET THE JOB DONE.
[ drill spinning ]
(JEREMY)>> AND WITH THE SPARE TIRE CARRIER LOCKED INTO POSITION, WE WENT AHEAD AND BENT SOME PIPE BECAUSE WE ACTUALLY HAVE TO MOUNT THE TIRE TO THIS WHOLE THING. WE'VE GOT OUR PLATE THAT ACTUALLY BOLTS RIGHT TO THE BACK OF THE SPARE TIRE. I'VE GOT A COUPLE OF MORE PIECES OF PIPE THAT WE CUT AND NOTCHED, AND THEN OBVIOUSLY WE PUT ONE ACROSS HERE. SO WE MUST MADE THE LOOP, AND ALL OF THIS IS GONNA FIT TOGETHER KINDA LIKE SUCH. OUR SPARE TIRE'S GONNA BOLT RIGHT ONTO HERE. WHEN WE'RE ALL DONE, WE'RE GONNA SWING THIS ALL OUT OF THE WAY TO LOWER THE TAILGATE.
(NARRATOR)>> AFTER THE BREAK WE'LL GET OUR BUMPER ALL FINISHED UP, STICK AROUND!
(JEREMY)>> HEY GUYS, WELCOME BACK TO XOR AND THE SPARE TIRE CARRIER BUILD ON OUR OVERLAND SCOUT. NOW OUR SPARE TIRE TIPS THE SCALES AT JUST OVER 100 POUNDS. YOU ADD ALL THAT BOUNCING WEIGHT WHEN WE'RE OUT ON THE TRAILS, WE KNOW OUR CARRIER'S GONNA HAVE TO BE PLENTY STRONG.
(ELIZA)>> WE FABRICATED THE HOOP FOR OUR SPARE TIRE CARRIER THE SAME WAY AND WITH THE SAME MATERIAL THAT WE BUILT OUR STINGER. WE JUST SCALED THE OVERALL SIZE DOWN A LITTLE.
[ welder crackling ]
(ELIZA)>> SINCE WE COULDN'T FIT A LEVEL ON THE CENTER SUPPORT BAR, WE CHECKED TO MAKE SURE IT WAS LEVEL THE OLD FASHIONED WAY.
THEN WE CONFIRMED IT WITH A REAL LEVEL.
[ welder crackling ]
(ELIZA)>> THEN WE MEASURED FOR CENTER TO ADD THE EXTENSION THAT'LL HOLD OUR TIRE MOUNT. [ welder crackling ]
(ELIZA)>> LIKE OUR HITCH RECEIVER IN THE REAR BUMPER, SPARE TIRE MOUNT PLATES LIKE THE ONE WE ARE USING CAN BE FOUND PREFABRICATED AND WILL SAVE YOU A LOT OF BUILD TIME. [ welder cracking ]
(ELIZA)>> WE'RE GOING TO ADD SEVERAL ADDITIONAL SUPPORTS TO BETTER DISTRIBUTE THE LOAD WHEN THE TRAIL GETS ROUGH BECAUSE, LIKE WE SHOWED YOU, OUR SPARE TIRE IS PRETTY HEAVY.
[ welder crackling ]
(JEREMY)>> WITH OUR TUBES TACKED ON AND OUR SPARE TIRE IN PLACE, ALL WE HAVE TO DO IS A LITTLE SWING TEST. WORKS LIKE BUTTER! ALL WE'VE GOT TO DO NOW IS TAKE IT ALL APART, WELD EVERYTHING UP.
HEY GUYS, I THOUGHT WE'D TAKE A LITTLE TIME AND GO OVER SOMETHING THAT A LOT OF US DON'T REALLY ENJOY DOING, AND THAT'S RUNNING BRAKE LINES, FLARING BRAKE LINES, AND BENDING BRAKE LINES. SO TODAY WE'RE GONNA SHOW YOU A COUPLE OF TIPS AND TRICKS AND HOPEFULLY MAKE THIS A WHOLE LOT LESS PAINFUL. THERE'S A COUPLE OF DIFFERENT THINGS YOU'RE GONNA NEED TO GET STARTED. A GOOD CUTOFF TOOL, A COUPLE DIFFERENT TYPES OF BENDERS, AND A VARIETY OF FLAT FILES. NOW FIRST WE'RE GONNA GO OVER HOW TO BEND YOUR BRAKE LINES. NOW WE ALL KNOW WHAT HAPPENS WHEN YOU TRY TO BEND A BRAKE LINE BY HAND. YOU GET A KINK. THAT'S WHY A GOOD SET OF BENDERS ARE GONNA COME IN HANDY. FIRST IS YOUR PLIER STYLE BENDER. THESE WORK GREAT WHEN YOU'RE UNDERNEATH YOUR PROJECT AND DON'T HAVE A LOT OF ROOM. THEY ALSO MAKE A VERY TIGHT RADIUS. AND SECONDLY IS AN ARM STYLE BENDER THAT HAS THREE DIFFERENT SIZED HEADS. NOW THESE WORK GOOD WHEN YOUR BRAKE LINES ARE NOT INSTALLED IN YOUR PROJECT, AND THEY MAKE A NICE, CLEAN BEND. AND ANOTHER TOOL YOU'RE GONNA NEED IS A GOOD BRAKE LINE CUTTER. NOW THESE ACTUALLY SERVE TWO DIFFERENT PURPOSES. ONE IS THE ACTUAL WHEEL THAT WILL CUT YOUR BRAKE LINE, AND THE OTHER IS THE POINT THAT WILL TAKE THE BURR OUT FROM THE INSIDE OF YOUR BRAKE LINE. WHEN YOU GO TO CUT YOUR BRAKE LINE PUT LIGHT PRESSURE ON THE CUTOFF WHEEL AND SLOWLY TIGHTEN AS YOU MAKE REVOLUTIONS. TAKING THE BURR OUR FROM THE INSIDE OF YOUR BRAKE LINE ALLOWS YOU TO MAKE THE PERFECT FLARE.
AND A GOOD FLAT FILE JUST TRUES UP YOUR EDGE.
THERE'S MANY DIFFERENT TYPES OF FLARING TOOLS OUT THERE. THERE'S THE STANDARD ONE THAT EVERYBODY HAS, THE ARM AND COMPRESSION STYLE ONE, AND THE HYDRAULIC STYLE ONE. WE'RE GONNA SHOW YOU HOW TO MAKE A FLARE WITH THE COMPRESSION STYLE ONE. WITH THE TOOL MOUNTED IN THE VICE AND THE CORRECT FLARE FORMING DYE SELECTED AND SECURED, WE FIRST HAVE TO SET THE PROPER DEPTH OF THE BRAKE LINE.
WITH THE LINE IN THE CORRECT POSITION AND SECURED, WE ROTATE THE DYE HEAD TO THE SIZE THAT MATCHES THE BRAKE LINE DIAMETER AND FIRST FORM WHAT'S CALLED A BUBBLE FLARE. LASTLY WE ROTATE THE HEAD TO SELECT THE 45 DEGREE INVERTED FLARE DYE TO COMPLETE THE END OF OUR BRAKE LINE.
(ELIZA)>> HEY GUYS, THANK YOU FOR WATCHING. IF YOU HAVE ANY QUESTIONS ABOUT WHAT YOU SAW ON TODAY'S SHOW VISIT US AT POWERNATION TV DOT COM AND WE'LL SEE YOU NEXT TIME.
