Land Rover Defender

(NARRATOR) THE BRITISH, THEIR FOOD IS AN ACQUIRED TASTE AND SO ARE THEIR CARS. PIP, PIP OLD BOY! TODAY ON XTREME OFF ROAD WE TEST DRIVE A VINTAGE LAND ROVER DEFENDER WITH PLANS TO TURN IT INTO AN EXPEDITION RIG, INCLUDING AN UPDATED CHASSIS AND MORE. PLUS WE BANG, AND MASH, AND BOX SUBURBAN SURVIVAL'S FRAME PREPPING IT FOR A SLEW OF UPGRADES.

(IAN) WE'VE GOT A PILE OF WORK TO TAKE CARE OF ON OUR FRAME FOR THE SUBURBAN SURVIVAL PROJECT. NOW IF YOU GUYS REMEMBER, THE LAST TIME WE WORKED ON THIS RIG WE PULLED THE ENGINE OUT, TOOK IT DOWN TO THE ENGINE POWER SHOP FOR THEM TO REBUILD, AND THAT LEAVES ME WITH A BARE CHASSIS HERE IN THE SHOP. THE PLAN RIGHT NOW IS SIMPLE. I'M GOING TO FULLY BOX THIS FRAME FOR STRENGTH, GETTING IT READY FOR WHEN THEY DELIVER THAT MONSTER ENGINE BACK TO ME. FROM THE FACTORY GM FRAMES HAVE A PILE OF HOLES IN THEM, AND THIS ONE HAS EVEN MORE THANKS TO SOME MODIFICATIONS MADE BY THE PREVIOUS OWNER. THE SMALLER HOLES CAN BE SIMPLY WELDED UP, BUT THE LARGER HOLES, THEY'RE A LITTLE BIT MORE DIFFICULT. SOME CAN BE WELDED OVER USING A COPPER BACKER. OTHERS NEED A PLUG, EASY TO MAKE THANKS TO OUR EDWARDS MANUFACTURING IRON WORKER. PUNCHING HOLES IN A PIECE OF SCRAP THREESIXTEENTHS INCH PLATE PRODUCES PERFECTLY ROUND FILLER PIECES THAT ARE THEN WELDED INTO THE FRAME AND GROUND SMOOTH. IF WE'RE BUILDING SOME TYPE OF CUSTOM STREET ROD TRUCK WE'D TAKE CARE OF ALL THE SMALL IMPERFECTIONS IN THE FRAME RAIL AND THEN METAL FINISH IT OUT TO PREP FOR PAINT. I'M NOT DOING THAT. I'M LOOKING FOR JUST PURE STRENGTH. SO I'M WELDING UP THE HOLES, AND THE NEXT STEP IS TO BOX THE INSIDE OF THE FRAME. THE REASON THAT BOXING THE FRAME MAKES IT STRONGER IS RIGHT NOW IT IS A PIECE OF CCHANNEL. NOW CCHANNEL CAN FLEX ALONG ITS LONGITUDINAL AXIS. IF YOU CAP THE INSIDE OF IT BASICALLY YOU'VE TURNED IT INTO A PIECE OF RECTANGULAR STRUCTURAL TUBING. NOW THAT'S A LOT HARDER TO FLEX. THAT'S WHERE THE STRENGTH COMES FROM. NOW YOU DON'T WANT TO COMPLETELY SEAL UP THE FRAME. I'M GONNA LEAVE THE BACK AND THE FRONT OPEN. THAT WAY IF ANY WATER GETS INSIDE IT CAN EVAPORATE OUT OR BE BLOWN OUT. IF I COMPLETELY SEALED UP THE FRAME AND HAD ONE SMALL LITTLE PIN HOLE ANY WATER THAT GOT IN THE FRAME WOULD JUST SIT THERE AND EVENTUALLY RUST IT OUT. I'M ONLY GONNA WORK IN SMALL SECTIONS AT A TIME TO MAKE IT EASIER, AND I'M GONNA BOX THIS FRAME BY DOING WHAT'S CALLED THE INSET BOX METHOD. IT'S JUST A LITTLE BIT EASIER. THE BOXING PLATES ARE CUT FROM SOME THREESIXTEENTHS INCH THICK STEEL USING OUR CROSSBOW PLASMA TABLE. EDGES ARE GROUND TO REMOVE THE SLAG FROM THE CUT, AND THE PLATES ARE TACKED INTO THE FRAME. [ hammer tapping ] (IAN) ANY DENTS IN THE CCHANNEL FRAME NEED TO BE REMOVED. WITH A LITTLE BIT OF HEAT AND A HAMMER IT'S ALL FIXED. [ hammer banging metal ] (IAN) BY INSETTING THESE BOXING PLATES INTO THE FRAME RAIL IT MAKES THIS JOB A LITTLE BIT EASIER FOR A COUPLE DIFFERENT REASONS. FIRST OF ALL, IF I LINED UP THE PLATE WITH THE OUTER EDGE OF THE FRAME RAIL I'D BE PERFORMING AN OUTSIDE CORNER WELD, AND THAT'S A VERY DIFFICULT WELD TO COMPLETE, ESPECIALLY OVERHEAD. WHEN THE PLATE IS INSET INTO THE CCHANNEL NOW I BASICALLY JUST HAVE A COUPLE OF TWELD JOINTS TO COMPLETE, AND THAT'S A LOT EASIER, ESPECIALLY ON THE TOP EDGE OF THIS FRAME RAIL. THERE'S LESS CHANCE OF BURN BACK INTO THE STEEL. ANOTHER REASON IS THE GM FRAME RAIL IS ACTUALLY NARROWER AT THE TOP THAN AT THE BOTTOM. SO THE PLATE WOULD BE IN THERE AT A SLIGHT ANGLE. NOW THAT'S NOT A HUGE DEAL BUT IT WOULD MAKE BUILDING BRACKETS FOR THINGS LIKE TRANSMISSION MOUNTS AND TRANSFER CASE MOUNTS A LITTLE BIT MORE DIFFICULT IN THE FUTURE. THERE'S ALSO AN ADDED BENEFIT TO THIS DESIGN. NOW I HAVE THIS SMALL LITTLE SHELF ON THE LOWER PART OF THE FRAME RAIL. NOW THAT'LL PROTECT ANY FUTURE BRAKE LINES OR FUEL LINES THAT I MOUNT ONTO THE SIDE OF THE FRAME, BASICALLY KEEPING ANY ROCKS OR DEBRIS FROM HITTING THEM WHEN THIS RIG IS IN THE DIRT. STRAIGHT SECTIONS OF THE FRAME ARE ALWAYS EASY TO BOX. CURVED SECTIONS, WELL THEY REQUIRE A LITTLE BIT MORE WORK. IT STARTS WITH TEMPLATES.

THEN HAND CUTTING WITH THE PLASMA. GRINDING TO FIT INSIDE THE FRAME RAIL AND TO FIT AROUND ANY FACTORY CROSS MEMBERS. BOXING A FRAME LIKE THIS WILL TAKE SOME TIME AND A LOT OF PATIENCE, BUT IT'S GONNA BE WELL WORTH IT IN THE END.

(NARRATOR) COMING UP, IF OUR BUG OUT RIG IS GETTING A CUMMINS DIESEL ENGINE THE FRONT END OF THIS FRAME'S GONNA NEED SOME SERIOUS STRENGTHENING. PLUS IT MAY BE 30 YEARS OLD BUT THIS LAND ROVER'S STILL GOT WHAT IT TAKES ON THE TRAIL.

(IAN) BOXING THE FRONT HALF OF A FRAME IS ALWAYS MORE DIFFICULT BECAUSE THE FRAME CHANGES SHAPE IN A BUNCH OF DIFFERENT DIRECTIONS, AND USUALLY HAS A BUNCH OF EXTRA STUFF ON IT, LIKE BUMP STOP MOUNTS AND ENGINE MOUNTS. MOST PEOPLE JUST SKIP THIS STEP AND TRY TO STIFFEN UP THE FRAME A COUPLE OF DIFFERENT WAYS. THE PREVIOUS OWNER OF THIS TRUCK ADDED THIS HEAVY DUTY ENGINE CROSS MEMBER TO ADD SOME STRENGTH BECAUSE FROM THE FACTORY THE GM TRUCKS, THEY DON'T HAVE A CROSS MEMBER THAT GOES UNDERNEATH THE ENGINE OIL PAN. THAT WILL HELP ELIMINATE SOME OF THE FLEX. MY PLAN IS TO GO AHEAD, BOX THIS SECTION UP, AND BUILD A NEW CROSS MEMBER THAT'LL HOLD OUR MOTOR MOUNTS. THAT'LL GIVE ME THE STRENGTH OF THE BOXING PLATES AND I'LL HAVE THAT NEW CROSS MEMBER BUILT IN PLACE TO KEEP THE FRAME GOOD AND STRONG. SO THE FIRST STEP IN BOXING UP THE FRONT OF THIS RIG IS TO TAKE A WHOLE BUNCH OF STUFF OFF OF IT.

[ impact wrench spinning ]

(IAN) ONCE STRIPPED, THE FRONT OF THE FRAME IS PREPPED, THE HOLES ARE FILLED. PLATES ARE THEN CUT AND BENT TO FIT THE FRAME CONTOUR.

[ welder crackling ] (IAN) EXTRA TIME WILL BE SPENT TRIMMING THESE PLATES IN ORDER TO GET A GOOD, TIGHT FIT.

YOU'VE PROBABLY NOTICED I'VE HAD TO CHANGE THE PROCEDURE ON THESE FRONT BOXING PLATES. I'M NOT LONGER INSETTING THEM INSIDE OF THE FRAME RAIL. I'VE LINED THEM UP WITH THE TOP EDGE OF THE UPPER FRAME RAIL AND THAT'S BECAUSE THE FRAME RAIL CHANGES SIZES A BUNCH OF TIMES AS IT TRAVELS DOWN UNTIL IT GETS WIDE ENOUGH TO MATCH UP WITH THE PLATES WE'VE ALREADY INSTALLED. IF I'D INSET THESE PLATES I'D END UP WITH A FRAME RAIL LESS THAN AN INCH THICK, AND THAT IS GONNA COMPROMISE THE STRUCTURE. THIS WAY I STILL END UP WITH A NICE, BIG, BEEFY FRAME RAIL SECTION. NOW IF YOU DON'T HAVE THE ABILITY TO BEND PLATES LIKE THIS IN YOUR SHOP, JUST DO THEM AS INDIVIDUAL PIECES. PUT A PLATE TO THE BEND, AND THEN ANOTHER PLATE FOR A FEW MORE INCHES, AND THEN ANOTHER PLATE ALL THE WAY DOWN THE FRAME RAIL. THERE'S NOTHING WRONG WITH THAT. IT'S NOT NECESSARILY THE BEST WAY TO DO IT. YOU WANT THE PLATES TO BE AS LONG AS THEY CAN, BUT YOU'RE ALWAYS GONNA END UP WITH SOME TYPE OF BUTT WELD IN THESE BOXING PLATES BECAUSE YOU'RE NEVER GONNA END UP WITH A PIECE OF STEEL THAT CAN FILL THE ENTIRE INSIDE OF THE FRAME RAIL. THIS IS AS FAR FORWARD AS I'M GOING TO GO. I WANT TO LEAVE THE FRAME RAILS OPEN FROM THIS POINT FORWARD BECAUSE I DON'T WANT TO CHANGE OUT THAT ENTIRE FRONT CROSS MEMBER. I HAVE A STEERING BOX THAT BOLTS UP TO THE FRAME RAIL ON THE FAR SIDE, AND I WANT MY BUMPER MOUNTS TO BE ABLE TO SLIDE INSIDE THE FRAME AS WELL. THIS IS A GOOD STOPPING POINT. IT'S WELL AHEAD OF THE MOTOR MOUNT THAT WILL BE BOLTED TO THE FRAME RIGHT HERE. IT'LL REALLY STIFFEN UP THIS FRAME FRONT TO BACK. ONE MORE PLATE AND THIS SIDE IS ALL DONE.

[ torch cutting metal ] [ metal grinding ] (IAN) WITH THE FINAL PLATE IN PLACE ALL THE BOXING PLATES CAN BE FINISH WELDED IN. I REMOVED THE FACTORY BUMP STOP FROM OUR TRUCK BECAUSE IT'S HELD WITH A SINGLE NUT THAT WOULD BE HIDDEN WITH OUR BOXING PLATES ON THE FRAME RAIL, BUT INSTEAD OF JUST RELOCATING THIS FACTORY BUMP STOP I'M GONNA UPGRADE THE BUMP STOPS ON THE TRUCK BECAUSE YOU DON'T WANT TO RUN WITH NO BUMP STOPS IN ANY SUSPENSION SYSTEM. I GOT A SET OF THESE PROGRESSIVE BUMP STOPS FROM DAYSTAR PRODUCTS. NOW YOU CAN SEE THEY'LL MOUNT WITH TWO TABS. THEY'RE ABOUT THE SAME HEIGHT AS A FACTORY BUMP STOP, BUT YOU CAN SEE THE GAPS THAT ARE CAST INTO THE POLYURETHANE. NOW WHAT THAT ALLOWS THE BUMP STOP TO DO IS ACT IN WHAT'S CALLED A PROGRESSIVE FASHION. THAT MEANS WHEN AXLE HITS THE BUMP STOP IT DOESN'T JUST STOP IT IMMEDIATELY LIKE A FACTORY BUMP STOP DOES. IT ACTUALLY SLOWS THE AXLE DOWN SLIGHTLY. THAT REMOVES SOME OF THE SHOCK FROM THE SUSPENSION AND WILL JUST MAKE WHEELING THAT MUCH MORE FUN.

NEW BUMP STOP MOUNTS ARE CUT, PUNCHED, BENT, AND WELDED ONTO THE FRAME. [ welder crackling ] (IAN) A QUICK COAT OF PAINT AND THE NEW BUMP STOP IS BOLTED UP.

[ drill spinning ] (NARRATOR) ROTTEN, RUSTY, AND A LITTLE THIN, NO NOT IAN, THE FRAME ON OUR LAND ROVER DEFENDER. SO WE'RE STARTING FROM SCRATCH WITH A NEW FOUNDATION.

(IAN) WE ARE BACK ON XTREME AND OUT OF THE SHOP IN OUR NEWEST PROJECT. IN THE WORLD OF EXPEDITION TRAVEL THERE IS ONE VEHICLE THAT'S RECOGNIZED ANYWHERE YOU GO. THAT IS THE LAND ROVER DEFENDER. FOR OVER 60 YEARS THESE BRITISH FOUR WHEEL DRIVE UTILITY VEHICLES HAVE BEEN USED FOR MILITARY SUPPORT, FAMILY RECREATION, AND EVERYTHING IN BETWEEN. THE POPULARITY OF THESE TRUCKS WORLD WIDE CANNOT BE IGNORED, AND WHEN THIS ONE POPPED UP FOR SALE LOCALLY I HAD TO GRAB IT. NOW THEY ARE A VERY UNIQUE VEHICLE. THE STYLING IS DEFINITELY ONE OF A KIND. THEY'RE APPEALING TO THE EYE, HAVE A HUGE CULT FOLLOWING. ALSO THEY HAVE A LOT OF ISSUES. TO ME THE BIGGEST ISSUE IS THE FACT THAT NOT ONLY JUST THAT THE STEERING WHEEL IS ON THE WRONG SIDE OF THE TRUCK. I MEAN IT'S OVER HERE ON WHAT WOULD BE THE PASSENGER SIDE, BUT I GET THAT. SOME PEOPLE WANT TO LIVE OUT THAT DREAM OF BEING A LOCAL MAIL MAN. IT'S MORE THE FACT THAT IT'S WAY OVER ON THE OTHER SIDE OF THE TRUCK. I MEAN I AM SQUISHED INTO THIS SEAT, SPECIFICALLY RIGHT BEHIND THE STEERING WHEEL. IF I WANT TO OPERATE THE HEATER CONTROLS I HAVE TO ROLL DOWN THE WINDOW. NOW THAT SEEMS TO ME TO BE A LITTLE BIT WEIRD, BUT BEFORE I CUT THIS ONE ALL UP AND MAKE IT MORE AWESOMER, HOW ABOUT I TAKE IT DOWN TO MY LOCAL OFF ROAD PARK AND THROW IT IN THE DIRT? SEE WHAT THE HYPE IS ALL ABOUT.

ONCE OFF THE ROAD THE D-90 ACTUALLY SURPRISED ME, BEING ABLE TO CRAWL THROUGH THE TRAILS WITH RELATIVE EASE.

THE SUSPENSION WAS A LITTLE BIT STIFF BUT THE RIG WAS ABLE TO BOUNCE THROUGH THE TRAIL. I DID WISH FOR LOCKERS FRONT AND REAR MORE THAN A FEW TIMES.

YEAH! THAT'S ACTUALLY PRETTY IMPRESSIVE, WOO HOO! IT'S GOT A TIGHT TURNING RADIUS, I'LL GIVE IT THAT, HOLY COW! ALL RIGHT LET'S GET IT TO THE SHOP BEFORE WE BREAK IT. ONCE IT'S IN THE SHOP WE'LL START TEARING IT DOWN, AND WHEN I SAY TEARING IT DOWN ALL THE WAY TO A BARE FRAME. THAT DOESN'T LOOK LIKE COOLANT AT ALL. THAT LOOKS LIKE A WHOLE LOT OF RAW WATER.

[ impact drill spinning ]

(IAN) WITH THE CHASSIS OUT FROM UNDERNEATH THE BODY IT'S EASIER TO SEE SOME OF THE UNIQUE FEATURES OF THE DEFENDER SERIES LAND ROVERS. THE FIRST IS THE FRONT SUSPENSION. IT'S A RADIUS ARM TYPE SUSPENSION. NOW THAT'S A VERY GOOD PERFORMING SUSPENSION BUT THAT LOWER RADIUS ARM, IT'S CAST STEEL. NOW THERE'S A LOT OF LOAD ON THAT ARM IN THE SUSPENSION AS IT CYCLES BACK AND FORTH. OUT BACK IS JUST AS UNIQUE. IT'S A SIMILAR RADIUS ARM BUT NOW WE HAVE THIS VERY INTERESTING WISHBONE OR YLINK TYPE UPPER LINK WITH A SINGLE BALL JOINT AT THE CENTER OF THE AXLE, GIVING US MUCH LESS STRESS ON THE DRIVELINE AS THE AXLE ARTICULATES. THE FRAME ITSELF, YEAH IT'S BIG, AND IT'S BEEFY, AND IT'S BOXED FRONT TO REAR BUT IT IS VERY NARROW. YOU CAN SEE THAT FROM THE FACTORY THEY HAD TO OFFSET THE ENTIRE DRIVETRAIN TO ONE SIDE OF THE TRUCK JUST TO FIT THE TRANSFER CASE AND THE FRONT DRIVELINE DOWN TO THE FRONT AXLE. IT'S GONNA BE VERY DIFFICULT TO FIT AN AFTERMARKET TRANSFER CASE IN BETWEEN THESE RAILS, AND THE RAILS THEMSELVES, THEY'RE NOT IN GOOD SHAPE. THIS FRAME IS FULL OF ROT, NOT JUST IN PLACES LIKE THIS BODY MOUNT. IN IMPORTANT PLACE LIKE OUT BACK AT THE BUMPER. SOMETHING'S HAPPENED HERE AT SOME POINT IN TIME AND THEY'VE GONE AHEAD AND ATTEMPTED A REPAIR JUST BY WELDING THESE REPLACEMENT PANELS OVER THE FRAME. THAT'S NOT A GOOD THING. THAT ALONE WOULD GIVE ME PAUSE TO USE THIS FRAME UNDERNEATH A PROJECT AS IMPORTANT AS THIS D-90. ADD THAT TO THE FACT THAT IT'S TOO NARROW, AND IT HAS SUSPENSION THAT I DON'T LIKE. MY PLAN IS TO REPLACE IT WITH SOMETHING PRETTY COOL. (NARRATOR) UP NEXT, CLASSIC LAND ROVER STYLE MEETS MODERN AMERICAN PERFORMANCE.

(IAN) THE FRAME THAT WILL NOW LIVE UNDERNEATH OUR LAND ROVER IS THIS. IT'S A 2007 JEEP WRANGLER JK TWO DOOR FRAME. NOW YES, IT'S OBVIOUSLY A LOT NEWER THAN OUR D-90, AND OBVIOUSLY IT'S IN A LOT BETTER SHAPE, BUT THAT'S NOT THE ONLY REASON THAT I PICKED THIS CHASSIS TO NOW LIVE UNDERNEATH THAT BODY. IT IS A FULLY BOXED FRAME WITH HYDRA FORMED SECTIONS MAKING IT INCREDIBLY STRONG. FROM THE FACTORY THE JK IS A FOUR LINK SUSPENSION BOTH FRONT AND REAR WITH MANY DIFFERENT UPGRADE OPTIONS AVAILABLE. THE WHEEL BASE IS 94.5 INCHES LONG. JUST A LITTLE BIT LONGER THAN THE FACTORY D-90 AT 93. PLUS IT'S GOT A LOT MORE ROOM FOR DRIVETRAIN UPGRADES LIKE AFTERMARKET TRANSFER CASES.

[ impact drill spinning ]

(IAN) WHENEVER YOU'RE PERFORMING A FRAME SWAP LIKE THIS THERE'S ALWAYS GOING TO BE INTERFERENCE ISSUES. REMEMBER THIS DEFENDER BODY WAS OBVIOUSLY NEVER DESIGNED TO FIT ONTO A JK FRAME. I HONESTLY THOUGHT THE FIRST POINT OF CONTACT WAS GOING TO BE THE BATTERY BOX THAT'S UNDERNEATH THE PASSENGER SEAT BECAUSE IT HANGS DOWN SO LOW, BUT IT'S NOT. IT'S ACTUALLY THE INNER WHEEL WELL IS HITTING THE FACTORY JEEP JK SHOCK TOWER. NOW I DON'T WANT TO JUST STRIP THIS DEFENDER DOWN TO A BAR TUB. I WANT TO KEEP IT AS COMPLETE A TRUCK AS POSSIBLE SO I CAN MAKE SURE EVERYTHING LINES UP WELL. YOU CAN SEE THE FRONT OF THE DEFENDER IS ALMOST LINING UP PERFECTLY WITH THE FRONT OF OUR JEEP FRAME, AND THE WHEEL BASE IS REALLY CLOSE. SO I'M JUST GONNA DISASSEMBLE PARTS AND PIECES OF THE TRUCK UNTIL I CAN GET THIS BODY SITTING ON THE FRAME.

BOTH INNER FENDERS HAVE TO GO FOR CLEARANCE AS WELL AS THE FRONT BODY MOUNT ON THE JK FRAME.

[ metal grinding ]

(IAN) OUR D-90 BODY IS NOW RESTING RIGHT ON TOP OF OUR JEEP JK FRAME. NOW I'M HAPPY WITH THE LOCATION OF THE FRAME AND THE FLOOR PAN. WHEN IT COMES TO WHEEL BASE, SO FAR I'M PRETTY LUCKY. I BASICALLY PUSHED THE FRONT AXLE ABOUT THREE QUARTERS OF AN INCH FORWARD IN THE WHEEL WELL FROM THE STOCK LOCATION. IT'S EASY TO TELL WHERE THE CENTER OF THE AXLE IS BECAUSE THAT IS THE BUMP STOP THAT LANDS RIGHT IN THE MIDDLE OF THE SPRING. THAT'LL JUST GIVE ME A LITTLE BIT MORE ROOM AT THE BACK OF THE WHEEL WELL FOR A LARGER WHEEL AND TIRE PACKAGE. NOW OUT FRONT WE DO HAVE ANOTHER ISSUE. NOT ONLY IS THE FRAME TOO LONG, WHAT'S MORE IMPORTANT HERE IS THE ACTUAL FRAME ITSELF IS TOO WIDE. YOU CAN SEE THE FENDERS ARE STRETCHED OUT ON EITHER SIDE OF THE FRAME HORN. NOW THE FIX HERE IS SIMPLE. I'VE GOT TO TRIM THE FRAME JUST A LITTLE BIT SHORTER, AND I'LL ALSO HAVE TO TRIM THE FENDERS TO FIT AROUND THE FRAME. THAT WAY I'LL STILL HAVE A FRAME HORN UP HERE AT THE FRONT THAT I'LL BE ABLE TO MOUNT A BUMPER TO, AND I'LL BE ABLE TO GET THE FENDERS INTO THE CORRECT LOCATION. NOW OUT BACK I HAVE A SIMILAR PROBLEM. BACK HERE THE FRAME IS JUST A FEW INCHES TOO LONG. NOW THE SIMPLEST SOLUTION WOULD BE JUST TO CUT IT AND CAP, BUT I MAY WANT TO RELOCATE THIS FACTORY JEEP CROSS MEMBER UP UNDERNEATH THAT BODY. THAT WAY I'D RETAIN THIS STOCK RECEIVER HITCH. NOW I WON'T MAKE THAT DECISION UNTIL I FIGURE OUT WHAT TYPE OF BUMPER IS GOING TO GO ONTO THE BACK OF THIS RIG. SO I'LL PROBABLY JUST CUT IT SHORT FOR NOW, BUT I WON'T THROW AWAY THIS REAR PART OF THE FRAME. THE REAR AXLE CENTER LINE IS PUSHED BACK JUST OVER AN INCH INSIDE THE FACTORY WHEEL OPENING. NOW THAT IS GOING TO WORK TO OUR FAVOR. I ALWAYS WANTED TO DO SOME TYPE OF WHEEL BASE STRETCH ON THIS BODY BECAUSE BOTH CORNERS OF THE D-90 ARE DAMAGED ON THE BOTH SIDES. SO IF I STRETCHED THE WHEEL BASE BACK I CAN TRIM AWAY THIS DAMAGED PORTION OF THE TUBE, AND BY MOVING THAT TIRE AND WHEEL BACK IT WILL PREVENT IT FROM HAPPENING IN THE FUTURE. WHAT I HAVE TO DO NOW IS BASICALLY SQUARE THE BODY UP ON THE FRAME AND THEN LOCK IT IN PLACE SO I CAN START BENDING UP SOME STEEL TO BUILD NEW MOUNTS. [ welder crackling ]