Wrangler Re-do: Performance

(ANNOUNCER)>> TODAY WE'RE WORKING ON OUR WRANGLER REDO PROJECT. RYAN'S ADDING LED LIGHTING, DOING A SOUND SYSTEM UPGRADE, MAKING PERFORMANCE UPGRADES, ADDING A SOFT TOP, AND INSTALL A NEW EXHAUST ON

OUR DUAL PURPOSE FOUR WHEEL DRIVE CONVERTED 2007 WRANGLER. IT'S ALL TODAY HERE ON TRUCK TECH.

(RYAN)>> HEY GUYS, WELCOME TO TRUCK TECH. NOW HERE AT POWERNATION, OR IN THIS SHOP ANYWAY,

WE'VE GOT A TENDENCY TO FOCUS ON VEHICLE

PERFORMANCE AND APPEARANCE. WHETHER IT'S ADDING HORSEPOWER AND TORQUE OR IMPROVING SYSTEMS LIKE SUSPENSION, BRAKES, OR DRIVETRAIN. AND WE'VE SHOWN YOU PLENTY OF SHEET METAL MODIFICATIONS AND HOW TO LAY DOWN A NICE PAINT JOB. AND THAT MEANS WE CAN BE GUILTY OF KINDA OVERLOOKING SOME OF THE OTHER THINGS THAT MAKE FOR A MORE COMPLETE AND ENJOYABLE DRIVING EXPERIENCE. THINGS LIKE A SOUND SYSTEM, INTERIOR UPGRADES, AND SUPPLEMENTAL LIGHTING. SO THAT'S EXACTLY WHAT WE'RE GONNA FOCUS ON TODAY. IN ADDITION TO THAT WE ARE GONNA TRY TO SQUEEZE A FEW

MORE PONIES OUT OF THE SOMEWHAT UNDERPOWERED THREE POINT EIGHT LITER VSIX UNDERNEATH THE HOOD OF OUR '07 JEEP WRANGLER. NOW THE MODIFICATIONS WE'VE GOT PLANNED FOR

TODAY WILL EITHER COMPLIMENT THE FACTORY COMPONENTS OR INTEGRATE WITH THEM REALLY CLEANLY.

NO NEED TO REINVENT THE WHEEL WITH SOME OF THIS STUFF. SO FOR OUR SOUND SYSTEM UPGRADE WE WENT TO KICKER AND PICKED UP ONE OF THEIR VSS POWER STAGE KITS. VSS STANDS FOR VEHICLE SPECIFIC SOLUTIONS, MEANING ALL OF THIS STUFF WILL EITHER BOLT ON OR BE PLUG AND PLAY WITH ALL THE FACTORY WIRING AND COMPONENTS. THE KIT INCLUDES DIRECT PLUG IN WIRING, A 200 WATT SUBWOOFER AMPLIFIER, A FOUR CHANNEL DIGITAL SOUND PROCESSOR WITH A BUILT IN AMP, AND ALL THE NECESSARY BRACKETRY AND HARDWARE. AND OF COURSE THE HEART OF THE SYSTEM, A 10 INCH

SQUARE KICKER SUBWOOFER. STEP ONE OF THE INSTALLATION IS REMOVING A COUPLE OF THE PLASTIC TRIM PANELS THAT SURROUND THE HVAC CONTROLS. THEN YOU CAN REMOVE THE FOUR SCREWS HOLDING THE HVAC PANEL IN PLACE AND SET THAT PANEL TO THE SIDE. THEN REMOVE THE SCREWS TO THE RADIO AND SLIDE IT OUT. AFTER THAT CAREFULLY REMOVE THE ANTENNA AND THE WIRING HARNESS AT THE BACK OF THE RADIO. THEN YOU CAN REMOVE THE TRIM PANEL BELOW THE

STEERING COLUMN ALONG WITH THIS METAL REENFORCEMENT PLATE. THEN YOU CAN SLIDE THE BRACKET AND THE DIGITAL SOUND PROCESSOR INTO POSITION. NOW IT USES EXISTING HOLES AND EXISTING HARDWARE. YOU JUST HAVE TO LINE THEM UP. THEN TEMPORARILY INSTALL THE TWO TOP SCREWS. THEN ATTACH THE BOTTOM THE SCREW. THEN CAREFULLY ROUTE THE HARNESS UP TO THE

CAVITY FOR THE RADIO. THEN TO MAKE SURE THE WIRING DOESN'T GET BUNDLED UP AND JAMMED UP WHEN SLIDING THE RADIO BACK INTO POSITION ROUTE IT BEHIND THIS METAL POST.

WHAT THIS DOES IS BASICALLY INTERCEPT THE SIGNALS COMING TO AND FROM THE RADIO, AND MODIFY THEM AND IMPROVE THEM. LIKE I SAID, EVERYTHING'S A FACTORY STYLE CONNECTOR AND IT PLUGS RIGHT IN.

THEN SIMPLY SLIDE THE RADIO BACK INTO POSITION AND SECURE IT USING THE HARDWARE. AFTER THAT IT'S BACK UNDER THE STEERING COLUMN TO INSTALL THE SUBWOOFER AMP.

WHICH AGAIN USES EXISTING HOLES AND HARDWARE. ONCE YOU HAVE IT IN POSITION YOU CAN SECURE IT USING THE TWO BOLTS YOU REMOVED EARLIER. THEN REMOVE THE TWO BOLTS YOU TEMPORARILY INSTALLED. THEN INSTALL THE KNEE BOLSTER OR REENFORCEMENT PLATE. THEN REINSTALL THOSE BOLTS. NOW IT'S TIME FOR SOME WIRING, STARTING WITH

ATTACHING THE POWER HARNESS TO THE POSITIVE

CABLE OF THE BATTERY AND ROUTING THE HARNESS ALONG THE TOP OF THE FIREWALL. NOW TO GET IT THROUGH THE FIREWALL I'M REMOVING THIS

PLUG CONVENIENTLY LOCATED AT THE TOP CORNER. THEN ONCE I PUNCH A HOLE IN THE PLUG I CAN PASS THE WIRES THROUGH IT AND ON INTO THE INTERIOR.

THEN ONCE THE FIREWALL PLUG, OR GROMMET, IS REINSTALLED, YOU CAN REMOVE ANY SLACK IN THE HARNESS BY PULLING IT TOWARDS THE INTERIOR. ALRIGHT, NOW WE'VE GOT OUR POWER HARNESSES ROUTED THROUGH THE FIREWALL AND WE'VE ATTACHED THE SUPPLIED CONNECTORS. SO ALL WE'VE GOT LEFT TO DO IS MAKE A HANDFUL OF PLUG AND PLAY CONNECTIONS, AND THEN ROUTE THE SUBWOOFER HARNESS TO THE BACK OF THE JEEP, TUCKING THINGS NEATLY UNDERNEATH THE CARPET AND THE PLASTIC TRIM. AND WITH THAT OUT OF THE WAY, NEXT UP WAS THE SUPER SIMPLE TASK OF INSTALLING THE SUBWOOFER. AFTER MAKING ONE QUICK ELECTRICAL CONNECTION, I CAN SECURE THE SUBWOOFER UNDERNEATH THE FOLD FORWARD REAR SEAT BY SIMPLY LINING UP THE BRACKETS ON THE BACK OF THE SUB BOX WITH THE ANCHORS ON THE BACK OF THE SEAT. THEN LOCKING IT IN THE UPRIGHT POSITION.

FITS IN THERE PRETTY GOOD, WOW, NICE! ALRIGHT NOW I'VE GOT THE GROUND CONNECTIONS MADE, I'VE PLUGGED IN THE INLINE FUSES, CHECKED EVERYTHING OVER, NOW IT'S TIME TO SEE HOW THIS THING SOUNDS. [ rock music playing ]

(RYAN)>> THAT'S A BIG IMPROVEMENT OVER THE FACTORY SOUND SYSTEM, WHICH IS ESPECIALLY NICE CONSIDERING THIS JEEP GOING DOWN THE HIGHWAY AT 70 MILES AN HOUR ISN'T EXACTLY QUIET. AND THAT EXTRA KICK WILL COME IN REALLY HANDY. AND IF YOU NEED TO TAKE THE SUBWOOFER OUT FOR EXTRA CARGO SPACE, WELL IT COMES OUT JUST AS EASILY AS IT WENT IN.

NICE!

(ANNOUNCER)>> AFTER THE BREAK WE'LL GET OUR LED LIGHTS INSTALLED. AND LATER WE'LL DO OUR PERFORMANCE UPGRADES AND GET OUR EXHAUST INSTALLED, STAY TUNED!

(RYAN)>> HEY GUYS, WELCOME BACK TO TRUCK TECH. WELL WE'VE GOT OUR KICKER SOUND SYSTEM UPGRADE COMPLETE, AND IT WAS A FUN PROJECT.

EVERYTHING WAS BOLT IN OR PLUG AND PLAY, AND THE WIRING WASN'T A HASSLE AT ALL. AND IT'S CERTAINLY SOMETHING YOU COULD KNOCK OUT IN THE AFTERNOON AND BE ROCKING AND ROLLING BY THAT EVENING. SO WE'RE GONNA MOVE ON TO OUR LIGHTING UPGRADE. AND JUST LIKE OUR STEREO PROJECT, WELL THIS STUFF IS GONNA WORK WITH SOME OF THE FACTORY COMPONENTS. LET'S GO CHECK OUT WHAT WE'VE GOT. THESE ARE LED'S THAT WE PICKED UP FROM ORACLE. THIS IS A 22 INCH, 120 WATT LIGHT BAR WITH MOUNTING BRACKETS.

THIS IS AN EIGHT INCH, 40 WATT SLEEK LED BAR. BUT CHECK THIS OUT, THESE ARE REPLACEMENT MIRROR HOUSINGS JUST FOR THE JK. WHAT THAT DO IS TAKE ADVANTAGE OF THE DEAD SPACE BEHIND THE GLASS AND INSTALL AN OFF ROAD LED LIGHT. PRETTY COOL, AND INSTALLATION SHOULD BE AS EASY AS PIE.

DON'T DROP THE MIRROR, IT'S BAD LUCK.

WHAT YOU'RE ESSENTIALLY DOING WITH THIS PROCESS IS REMOVING THE GUTS FROM THE FACTORY MIRROR AND REINSTALLING THEM IN THE REPLACEMENT

MIRROR HOUSING. AND AFTER SEPARATING THE GLASS FROM THE MIRROR POST, OR SUPPORT, YOU CAN INSTALL THAT POST INTO THE NEW HOUSING, MAKING SURE TO ROUTE THE WIRING ALONG WITH THE POST. THEN YOU CAN SECURE IT TO THE NEW HOUSING. AGAIN, ROUTING THE WIRE THROUGH THE MOUNTING ATTACHMENT POINTS THAT GO TO THE DOOR.

TO THE DOOR! ALRIGHT, NOW BEFORE I HANG THE MIRROR ON THE OUTSIDE OF THE DOOR, I WANT TO REMOVE THE INTERIOR DOOR PANEL SO I CAN CLEANLY ROUTE THE WIRING. AFTER REMOVING FOUR PHILLIPS HEAD SCREWS AND THE WINDOW CRANK HANDLE, YOU CAN START PRYING THE DOOR PANEL LOOSE, BEING CAREFUL NOT TO BREAK

THE PLASTIC RETAINERS. THEN USING THE MIRROR BASE GASKET AS A GUIDE, I'M DRILLING A HOLE FOR THE NEW WIRING TO PASS THROUGH, ALONG WITH A COUPLE OF EXTRA HOLES INSIDE THE DOOR. DON'T BE TEMPTED TO USE THE HOLE ABOVE THE ONE I'M DRILLING. THAT'S USED TO LOCATE THE DOOR PANEL. AND AS A RUST PREVENTATIVE ON THE FRESHLY DRILLED EXTERIOR HOLE, I'M HITTING IT WITH A LITTLE BIT OF SPRAY PAINT.

NOW IT'S TIME FOR THE TASK OF ROUTING THE SMALL WIRING THROUGH THE SMALL HOLES.

IT CAN BE A LITTLE BIT TEDIOUS. ALRIGHT, I GOT IT. BUT A LITTLE BIT OF PATIENCE GOES A LONG WAY, AND YOU CAN ROUTE THE WIRES TO THE INSIDE CLEANLY. NOW I CAN TEMPORARILY HANG THAT BY A COUPLE OF MOUNTING SCREWS. JUST MAKE SURE YOU ROUTE YOUR WIRES TO AVOID ANY MOVING PARTS OR THE WINDOW TRACKS INSIDE THE DOOR. ALRIGHT NOW IT'S MORE OPERATION. ALRIGHT, I THINK I'M GONNA GET LUCKY HERE. LOOK AT THAT.

CAREFULLY, ALRIGHT! THEN ALL WE HAVE TO DO IS RUN THE WIRES DOWN

THE INNER DOOR PANEL. THAT WORKED OUT WELL. SNEAK A ZIP TIE THROUGH THERE, YEP. I'M SIMPLY DRILLING A COUPLE OF SMALL HOLES IN THE PLASTIC FLANGE SO I CAN ZIP TIE THE WIRES TO IT. THE REST WILL BE HIDDEN BEHIND THE DOOR PANEL. NOW GETTING THE SOMEWHAT FLIMSY WIRES THROUGH THE FABRIC DOOR RESTRAINT CAN BE A PAIN IN THE NECK. SO I RAN A HARD PLASTIC LINE THROUGH THE FABRIC RETAINER, TAPE THE WIRES TO THE END, AND THAT

QUICKLY REMOVED THEM. MADE THE JOB A PIECE OF CAKE. THEN BEFORE REINSTALLING THE DOOR PANEL I'M PUTTING A DAB OF LOCTITE WEATHER STRIP ADHESIVE AROUND THE WIRES WHERE IT PASSES THROUGH THE SHEET METAL. THIS WILL PREVENT THE WIRES FROM RATTLING OR THE INSULATION FROM GETTING DAMAGED. THEN AFTER SLAPPING THE DOOR PANEL BACK INTO POSITION AND SEATING THE RETAINERS YOU CAN INSTALL THE FOUR PHILLIP SCREWS AND THE CRANK HANDLE. THEN IT'S BACK TO THE MIRROR HOUSING. NOW TO INSTALL THE GLASS YOU SIMPLY INSTALL THE HOOKS AT THE BOTTOM AND FOLD IT TOWARD THE TOP UNTIL IT CLIPS INTO POSITION. YOU AGAIN! NOW SOME OF THE DASH TRIM PIECES ARE ESSENTIALLY FLAT PLASTIC. NOTHING WRONG WITH IT, BUT YOU CAN ALWAYS USE MORE STORAGE AND WE NEED A SPOT FOR BOTH OUR AIR LOCKER AND FOG LIGHT SWITCHES. SO WE WENT TO DAYSTAR AND PICKED UP A COUPLE OF REPLACEMENT PANELS.

THIS ONE OFFERS A LITTLE BIT MORE STORAGE, WHILE THIS ONE WILL HOUSE UP TO FOUR AIR LOCKER OR FOG LIGHT SWITCHES. ALL WE'VE GOT TO DO IS CUT THE OPENINGS. NOW THE CUT LINES ARE MOLDED INTO THE PLASTIC. ALL YOU'VE GOT TO DO IS BASICALLY TRACE THEM. I'M USING A UTILITY KNIFE WITH A FRESH BLADE ON IT, BEING CAREFUL NOT TO OVER CUT THE OPENING.

AND AFTER CUTTING ALL FOUR OPENINGS AND ADDING OUR SWITCH WIRING, WE NOW HAVE A GOOD, CONVENIENT HOME FOR ALL OF OUR ACCESSORIES.

THIS DASH TOP PANEL POPS RIGHT INTO POSITION AFTER YOU SWAP OVER THE METAL RETAINERS FROM THE FACTORY

PIECE, PIECE OF CAKE.

(RYAN)>> HEY GUYS, WELCOME BACK TO THE SHOP. NOW WITH OUR OTHER PROJECTS TAKEN CARE OF, WE CAN MOVE ON TO COAXING SOME MORE POWER OUT OF THE THREE POINT EIGHT LITER VSIX UNDERNEATH THE HOOD. NOW IN FACTORY FORM THAT ENGINE MAKES AROUND 200 HORSEPOWER, AND I'LL BE NICE AND SAY THAT'S SUFFICIENT FOR A STOCK JEEP. BUT ADD A LIFT KIT, LARGER AND HEAVIER TIRES AND WHEELS, STEEL BUMPERS AND A WINCH, AND LET'S JUST SAY THIS THING CAN USE ALL THE EXTRA HORSEPOWER AND TORQUE WE CAN THROW AT IT. SO WE'RE GONNA BE INSTALLING THE TRIFECTA OF PERFORMANCE PARTS.

WE'VE GOT A COLD AIR INTAKE, A TUNER OR A PROGRAMMER, AND A FREE FLOWING EXHAUST SYSTEM. FOR THE INTAKE WE WENT TO AIRAID AND PICKED UP ONE OF THEIR KITS THAT INCLUDES THIS ALUMINUM LID PROTECTING THE AIR BOX AND THE FILTER INSIDE. YOU DON'T WANT A BUNCH OF MUDDY WATER RAINING DOWN

ALL OVER OUR SYNTHEMAX DRY AIR FILTER. THE TUNER IS FROM HYPERTECH. IT'S THEIR MAX ENERGY POWER PROGRAMMER. IT'LL NOT ONLY MAXIMIZE THE HORSEPOWER AND TORQUE OUTPUT, BUT WE CAN USE IT FOR OTHER THINGS LIKE RECALIBRATING THE SPEEDOMETER, ADJUSTING TRANSMISSION SHIFT POINTS AND FIRMNESS, AND CONTROLLING THE COOLING FAN ON

AND OFF TEMPERATURES. THE EXHAUST SYSTEM IS FROM GIBSON. IT'S ONE OF THEIR HIGH FLOW STAINLESS STEEL AXLE BACK KITS. IT INCLUDES TWO AND A HALF INCH MANDREL BENT TUBING, A HIGH FLOW MUFFLER, AND A NICE POLISHED STAINLESS STEEL EXHAUST TIP. AND JUST LIKE ALL THE PROJECTS WE'VE DONE TODAY,

THE INSTALLATION OF THESE PARTS IS SIMPLE AND STRAIGHT FORWARD. STEP ONE IS REMOVING THE FACTORY AIR BOX AND INTAKE TUBE.

THEN YOU CAN INSTALL THESE THREADED INSERT GROMMETS INTO THE FACTORY LOCATIONS.

INSTALL THE NEW INTAKE TUBE TO THE THROTTLE BODY, ROTATE IT DOWN INTO POSITION, AND SECURE

IT USING THE SUPPLIED HARDWARE. AFTER THAT YOU CAN DROP IN THE HIGH FLOW AIR FILTER AND SECURE IT USING THE SUPPLIED BAND CLAMP. THEN ONCE YOU APPLY THE GASKET TO THE NEW ALUMINUM LID, DROP IT IN PLACE, AND TIGHTEN DOWN THE FOUR BOLTS. THEN INSTALL THE AIR TEMP SENSOR THAT YOU REMOVED FROM THE FACTORY AIR INTAKE TUBE. MAKE THE CONNECTIONS AND ROUTE THE WIRING. THEN SNUG DOWN THE HOSE PIPE ATTACHING TO THE

THROTTLE BODY, RECONNECT THE BREATHER TUBE, THEN TIGHTEN DOWN THE CLAMP, YOU'RE DONE. AT THE BACK OF THE JEEP WE START THE EXHAUST SYSTEM INSTALLATION BY HANGING THE MUFFLER INLET AND ATTACHING IT TO THE STOCK EXHAUST. THEN JUST SNUGGING DOWN THE PROVIDED EXHAUST CLAMP. SNUG FOR NOW.

THEN WE CAN ADD THE CLAMP TO THE PIPE, ATTACH THE MUFFLER, AND ROTATE IT INTO POSITION, PERSUADING IT TO GO ON.

THEN WE CAN ADD THE SHORT SECTION OF TAIL PIPE AND ATTACH IT TO THE FACTORY HANGER AND INSTALL

IT INTO THE MUFFLER. AGAIN JUST SNUGGING DOWN THE CLAMPS UNTIL WE ADD THE POLISHED TIP. ONCE EVERYTHING'S LINED UP, WE'LL GO BACK AND MAKE SURE EVERYTHING'S GOOD AND TIGHT. AND TO MAKE SURE THE TIP'S NOT VULNERABLE TO TRAIL

DAMAGE, I'M LOCATING IT SO IT'S PROTECTED BY THE REAR BUMPER.

ALRIGHT WITH OUR INTAKE AND EXHAUST DONE ALL WE'VE

GOT LEFT TO DO TO FINISH UP OUR POWER UPGRADES IS TO PLUG OUR HYPERTECH MAX ENERGY PROGRAMMER INTO THE OBD TWO PORT AND FOLLOW A FEW ON SCREEN PROMPTS.

WE'LL BE MAKING MORE HORSEPOWER AND TORQUE AND TAKING ADVANTAGE OF THE EXTRA BREATHING CAPABILITIES OF OUR VSIX. HOPEFULLY WE'LL BE ABLE TO TURN THESE 37 INCH TIRES A LITTLE BIT EASIER. SPEAKING OF WHICH, WE'RE GONNA RECALIBRATE OUR

SPEEDOMETER TO MAKE SURE IT'S ACCURATE AS WELL.

(ANNOUNCER)>> WHEN WE COME BACK WE'LL INSTALL OUR NEW SOFT TOP, STICK AROUND!

(RYAN)>> HEY GUYS, WELCOME BACK TO THE SHOP. NOW BEFORE WE GET OUT OF HERE FOR THE DAY WE'VE GOT ONE MORE THING WE WANT TO TAKE CARE OF. THIS JEEP IS A '07, WHICH MEANS THE FACTORY SOFT TOP HAS PRETTY MUCH BURNED THROUGH ITS USEFUL LIFE.

IT WAS IN PRETTY ROUGH SHAPE. BUT RATHER THAN REPLACE IT WITH JUST ANOTHER FACTORY SOFT TOP, WE'RE GONNA TRY A FRAMELESS TRAIL TOP THAT WE PICKED UP FROM RAMPAGE PRODUCTS. STEP ONE IS INSTALLING THE NEW DOOR SURROUNDS. IT'S WHAT ALLOWS THE DOORS TO SEAL IN THE TOP. NOW THIS TOP WILL WORK WITH BOTH THE FULL STEEL

DOORS AND THE HALF DOORS. AFTER THAT WE CAN THROW THE TOP UP ON THE ROLL BAR AND START SETTING IT INTO PLACE. NOW I DID GO AHEAD AND SET THE TOP OUT IN THE SUN FOR A FEW HOURS TO LET IT SOFTEN UP AND MAKE IT EASIER TO WORK WITH. THEN WE CAN ATTACH THE WINDSHIELD HEADER BAR AND START WORKING OUR WAY TOWARDS THE REAR OF THE JEEP. THEN WE CAN ZIP IN THE TINTED REAR WINDOWS. NOW YOU CAN GET CLEAR WINDOWS IF YOU WANT. WE OPTED FOR THE TINTED. NOW YOU DON'T WANT TO TRY TO INSTALL THIS TOP IN THE WINTER IN COLORADO. WARMER WEATHER IS DEFINITELY YOUR FRIEND AND IT WILL ALLOW THE FABRIC TO SOFTEN UP A LITTLE BIT.

NOW THE MATERIAL ITSELF IS A HEAVY DUTY SAIL CLOTH MATERIAL, WHICH IS THE SAME OR VERY SIMILAR TO THE OE FABRIC. AND WITH THE REAR AND SIDE WINDOWS ATTACHED WITH THE MARINE GRADE ZIPPERS WE CAN START WORKING THE CHANNEL INTO THE DOOR SURROUND.

FOLLOWED BY WORKING THE PLASTIC INTO THE BELT RAIL AT THE BOTTOM.

NOW THE REAR WINDOW HAS A TAIL GATE BAR ATTACHED TO THE BOTTOM OF IT, AND IT FITS INTO TAIL GATE BAR BRACKETS SIMILAR TO THE WAY AN OE TOP DOES. ONCE EVERYTHING'S ATTACHED YOU CAN FINALLY PULL THE TOP ALL THE WAY DOWN AND ATTACH THE TENSION STRAPS TO THE REAR BELT RAIL. IS THAT MAXIMUM LENGTH? THESE ARE WHAT PULL THE TOP TIGHT OVER THE FACTORY ROLL BAR, AND ALLOWS THE TOP TO WORK WITHOUT ANY COMPLICATED FRAME AND BOW SYSTEM. DON'T PULL THE STRAPS TOO TIGHT.

NOW TO COMPLETE THE INSTALLATION I INSTALLED THE FOUR SUPPORT BOWS THAT PREVENT WATER FROM PUDDLING ON THE ROOF. THIS THING'S ALSO GOT A COUPLE OF HANDY OVERHEAD STORAGE POCKETS. NOW THE COOL THING ABOUT THIS TOP, IT'S ESSENTIALLY TWO TOPS IN ONE.

IT'S A COOL LOOKING COMPLETE FAST BACK STYLE SOFT TOP, OR IT CAN BE QUICKLY AND EASILY CONVERTED TO A SAFARI TOP BY REMOVING THESE RETENTION STRAPS, UNZIPPING THE WINDOWS, STORING THEM IN THE ROOF TOP POCKET, AND REATTACHING THESE STRAPS. AND THAT'LL PREVENT THE WINDOWS FROM GETTING SCRATCHED UP AND DAMAGED WHEN THEY'RE NOT INSTALLED. AND NOW LET'S KILL SOME OF THESE ROOM LIGHTS AND SEE HOW BRIGHT THESE LED'S ARE. LET THERE BE LIGHT. NOT BAD FOR A FEW LED'S.

THOSE SUCKERS ARE BRIGHT. NOW WITH THE RELEASE OF THE NEW ALUMINUM BODY F-150, THE NEED FOR THE ABILITY TO WELD ALUMINUM IS INCREASING, ESPECIALLY IN COLLISION SHOPS. SO MILLER HAS JUST RELEASED THEIR NEW MILLERMATIC 350-P AUTO BODY

ALUMINUM REPAIR SYSTEM. THE WELDER INCLUDES AN EIGHT INCH ROLL OF 047 ALUMINUM WIRE AND A NEW MIG GUN WITH JUST A 30 DEGREE HEAD TUBE FOR BETTER ALUMINUM WIRE DELIVERY. IT ALSO INCLUDES ARE THE COMPONENTS SPECED OUT BY FORD FOR A CORRECT REPAIR. SO IF YOU'RE A COLLISION TECH OR YOU'RE IN THE AUTO BODY WORLD, YOU NEED TO CHECK OUT THE NEW MILLERMATIC 350-P. NOW IF YOU'VE GOT A '40'S OR '50'S ERA CHEVY PICK UP AND YOU WANT TO GET RID OF THE IN CAB FUEL TANK, WELL BROTHER'S TRUCK PARTS HAS A GREAT SOLUTION FOR YOU. THIS NEW FUEL TANK GOES UNDERNEATH THE BED FLOOR AND BETWEEN THE FRAME RAILS, AND INCLUDES A NEW SENDING UNIT, FILLER NECK, AND MOUNTING HARDWARE. SO IF YOU'RE IN THE MARKET FOR A NEW FUEL TANK FOR YOUR OLD CHEVY, CHECK OUT BROTHERS TRUCK PARTS. GUYS THANKS FOR WATCHING TRUCK TECH, SEE YOU NEXT TIME.