Dialing In a Rebuilt 4L60E Automatic Transmission on a Chevy Silverado

(ANNOUNCER)>> TODAY WE'RE SHOWING YOU HOW TO SWAP IN AND DIAL IN A STREET PERFORMANCE AUTOMATIC TRANSMISSION. WE'RE SHOWING YOU HOW A TORQUE CONVERTER WORKS.

(RYAN)>> THE TURBINE IS ACTED ON BY THE IMPELLER.

(ANNOUNCER)>> AND PROGRAMMING THE TRANSMISSION AND ENGINE CONTROLLERS BEFORE FIRING UP OUR NEW 383. IT'S ALL TODAY HERE ON TRUCK TECH!

(RYAN)>> HEY GUYS, WELCOME TO TRUCK TECH.

NOW THE LAST TIME WE HAD OUR '93 CHEVY 1500 IN THE SHOP THE ENGINE WAS OUT AND ON AN ENGINE STAND AND WE WERE HAULING THE TRANSMISSION OFF TO HAVE IT FRESHENED UP AND BEEFED UP.

AND SINCE THEN WE'VE HAD A CHANCE TO STAB THE ENGINE DOWN IN BETWEEN THE FRAME RAILS, AND DO SOME OF THE WIRING AND PLUMBING NECESSARY TO GET THIS THING UP AND RUNNING. NOW ONE OF THE REASONS WE WANTED TO REBUILD THIS ENGINE WAS FOR MORE POWER. I GUESS WE COULD HAVE GONE WITH THE EVER POPULAR LS ENGINE SWAP. BUT SOMETIMES WHEN YOU DO AN ENGINE SWAP, IT HAS THE

DOMINO EFFECT AND YOU'VE GOT TO MAKE A BUNCH OF CHANGES TO GET EVERYTHING TO WORK. SO THAT'S WHY WE WANTED TO KEEP IT SIMPLE AND KEEP THIS ENGINE. PLUS THERE'S NOTHING WRONG WITH A WARMED UP 350, OR 383 IN OUR CASE. BUT EVEN JUST CHANGING TO A MULTIPORT EFI SYSTEM, THERE WAS SOME CHANGES THAT WE HAD TO MAKE.

THAT'S WHAT WE WANT TO SHOW YOU. NOW SO WE COULD USE OUR ORIGINAL THROTTLE CABLE, WELL I JUST REMOVED THE ORIGINAL THROTTLE CABLE AND CRUISE CONTROL BRACKET OFF THE ORIGINAL ENGINE, CUT IT UP AND MODIFIED IT SO IT'LL WORK WITH OUR NEW THROTTLE BODY. THAT WAY WE CAN KEEP OUR ORIGINAL CABLE. I'VE ALSO BENT UP SOME STAINLESS STEEL LINE AND ATTACHED THEM TO VACUUM SOURCES HERE ON THE INTAKE MANIFOLD. ONE GOING TO A PCV VALVE I'VE ADDED TO THE VALVE COVER, THE OTHER GOING TO OUR BRAKE BOOSTER.

ON THE FIREWALL WE'VE GOT A GROMMET AND SOME WIRING GOING THROUGH OUR STAND ALONE WIRING HARNESS FOR THE TRANSMISSION CONTROLLER, AND WE'VE ADDED AN ADJUSTABLE FUEL PRESSURE REGULATOR THAT WE'RE GONNA BE SETTING TO 43 PSI. WE'VE ALSO INSTALLED OUR IGNITION COIL HERE ON THE FIREWALL, AND PUT THE DIGITAL CD IGNITION BOX HERE ON THE FENDER WELL. NOW WIRING THIS THING UP WAS A LITTLE BIT OF A CHALLENGE BECAUSE WE WERE DEALING WITH THREE DIFFERENT HARNESSES,

THE ENGINE HARNESS, A STAND ALONE TRANSMISSION HARNESS, AND THE ORIGINAL TRUCK HARNESS.

NOW THE ORIGINAL TRUCK WIRING, WELL JUST CUT IT UP AND GOT RID OF A LOT OF THE UNNECESSARY WIRES. BUT WE DID KEEP THE WIRING AND SENSORS FOR THINGS LIKE THE OIL PRESSURE SENSOR AND THE ENGINE COOLANT TEMP SENSOR. THAT WAY OUR INSTRUMENT CLUSTER WILL WORK CORRECTLY.

WE ALSO KEPT ENOUGH WIRING AROUND TO CONTROL THE

A/C COMPRESSOR AND THE ALTERNATOR. NOW IT WASN'T SUPER DIFFICULT TO DO BUT IT DID TAKE SOME TIME TO BLEND THOSE THREE HARNESSES TOGETHER AND MAKE IT LOOK SOMEWHAT NEAT. NOW OUR TRANSMISSION IS A FOURL-60-E THAT IF YOU GUYS REMEMBER WE JUST HAD FRESHENED UP AT THE LOCAL TRANSMISSION SHOP. BUT IF YOU'RE FEELING FROGGY AND YOU WANT TO TACKLE A REBUILD JOB YOURSELF, WELL THEY DO MAKE A PRETTY COMPREHENSIVE MANUAL THAT OUGHTA HELP YOU THROUGH THE PROCESS. NOW BEFORE WE INSTALL THIS THING IT'S GONNA NEED A TORQUE CONVERT, BUT WE'RE NOT GONNA GO BACK WITH THE STOCK CONVERTER. ITS STALL SPEED WAS JUST TOO LOW, PROBABLY AROUND 1,500 TO 1,600 RPM. WHEN WE WERE SPEC'ING OUR CAM SHAFT, THEY ALSO RECOMMENDED THIS SATURDAY NIGHT SPECIAL 1,800 RPM STALL SPEED CONVERTER. NOW WHAT THAT INCREASE IN STALL SPEED IS GONNA DO IS ALLOW THE ENGINE TO GET UP INTO THE POWER BAND OR THE TORQUE CURVE A LITTLE BIT MORE, HELPING THE TRUCK COME OFF THE LINE A LITTLE BIT QUICKER. NOW THAT CAM AND TORQUE CONVERTER WAS SPEC'ED TOGETHER ALONG WITH THE REAR GEAR RATIO, AND THE TIRE SIZE, AND THE INTENDED USE OF THE TRUCK. NOW IF YOU GUYS WERE EVER WONDERING WHAT GOES ON INSIDE A TORQUE CONVERTER AND WHAT MAKES THIS THING WORK, CHECK THIS OUT. ALRIGHT, NOW WE'RE GONNA PRETEND THAT THIS FAN IS THE IMPELLER ATTACHED TO THE BACK OF THE ENGINE AND IT'S

PLUGGED IN AND UNDER POWER, WHILE THIS FAN IS THE TURBINE ATTACHED TO THE TRANSMISSION AND IT IS NOT PLUGGED IN. NOW AT A LOW FAN SPEED, OR AN IDLE TYPE RPM, YOU CAN SEE THE IMPELLER STARTS TO DRIVE THE TURBINE. BUT WITH YOUR FOOT ON THE BRAKE YOU CAN EASILY STOP THE FAN FROM SPINNING. ONCE YOU RELEASE THE BRAKE AND PICK UP ENGINE RPM, THE TURBINE IS ACTED ON BY THE IMPELLER EVEN THOUGH THERE'S NO MECHANICAL CONNECTION BETWEEN THE TWO. THEN ONCE YOU RETURN TO IDLE SPEED, WELL THE ENGINE CAN

SIT THERE AND RUN WHILE YOU'RE NOT GOING ANYWHERE. NOW WITH THIS COOL ANIMATION YOU CAN GET A BETTER

IDEA OF WHAT'S GOING ON INSIDE THE CONVERTER WITHOUT CUTTING ONE OPEN. NOW THE IMPELLER, OR THE BLUE FAN, IS ATTACHED TO THE ENGINE DIRECTLY. IT'S WELDED TO THE TORQUE CONVERTER CASE, WHILE THE IMPELLER IS ATTACHED TO THE TRANSMISSION THROUGH A SPLINED INPUT SHAFT. THE FASTER THE IMPELLER SPINS, THE FASTER THE TURBINE SPINS, AND IT DOES THIS JUST BY MOVING FLUID AROUND. AND IT'S PRETTY AMAZING THAT YOU CAN GET A TWO OR THREE TON VEHICLE MOVING BY USING JUST FLUID AND NO

MECHANICAL CONNECTION. BEFORE INSTALLING THE CONVERTER, I'M FILLING IT WITH A QUART OR TWO OF TRANSMISSION FLUID. I'M TRYING TO WORK OUT THE AIR BUBBLES AND GET THIS THING FILLED UP. NOW INSTALLING THE CONVERTER IS PRETTY STRAIGHT FORWARD BUT IT'S NOT SIMPLY JUST A MATTER OF SLAMMING IT UP HERE AND CALLING IT DONE. YOU ACTUALLY HAVE THREE COMPONENTS TO ENGAGE. YOU HAVE THE INPUT SHAFT SPLINES, THE STATOR SPLINES, AND DEEP IN HERE IS THESE TABS FOR THE OIL PUMP. AND ONE MORE THING YOU WANT TO DO IS ADD A LITTLE BIT OF LUBRICATION TO THE ORING AND TO THIS FRONT SEAL. PUT A LITTLE ON THE CONVERTER HUB AS WELL.

NOW IF YOU'RE REUSING THE ORIGINAL CONVERTER, IT'S A GOOD IDEA TO HAVE IT FLUSHED OUT BEFORE INSTALLING IT. SAME WITH THE TRANSMISSION COOLER AND LINES. YOU WANT THOSE FLUSHED OUT AS WELL SO YOU'RE NOT CONTAMINATING YOUR NEW TRANSMISSION WITH OLD DIRTY FLUID. JUST SLIGHT PRESSURE AGAINST THE CONVERTER WHILE ROTATING IT MAKES SURE IT FULLY ENGAGES THOSE OIL PUMP TABS. I THINK WE'RE GOOD. NOW WE'RE LUCKY ENOUGH TO HAVE A LIFT AND A TRANSMISSION JACK TO GET THIS JOB DONE.

BUT IF YOU'RE DOING IT IN THE DRIVEWAY, WELL A PAIR OF TALL JACK STANDS AND A FLOOR JACK WILL NET YOU THE SAME RESULTS, JUST A LITTLE BIT MORE WORK. WITH THE TRANSMISSION BOLTED UP, THE CONVERTER SHOULD SPIN FREELY. IF IT'S BINDING UP AGAINST THE FLEX PLATE YOU DIDN'T INSTALL THE CONVERTER CORRECTLY. NOW WITH THE TRANSMISSION BOLTED IN PLACE WE CAN ADD THINGS LIKE OUR STAND ALONE WIRING HARNESS CONNECTOR, A CROSS MEMBER, HEAT SHIELD, AND TRANSMISSION COOLER LINES. THEN WE CAN ATTACH THE THREE FLEX PLATE BOLTS. I LIKE TO JUST FINGER TIGHTEN THESE ONE AT A TIME WHILE ROTATING THE ENGINE USING THE HARMONIC BALANCER BOLT.

YOU DON'T WANT TO INSTALL ONE AND THEN TIGHTEN IT DOWN AND RISK THE OTHER TWO HOLES NOT LINING UP PERFECTLY. SO I INSTALL ALL THREE LOOSELY, THEN GO BACK AND TIGHTEN THEM UP, AND FINALLY TORQUE THEM DOWN.

AND ON ALL THREE BOLTS I'M USING A LITTLE BIT OF BLUE LOCTITE TO MAKE SURE THEY DON'T VIBRATE LOOSE. THESE FLEX PLATE BOLTS GET TORQUED TO 60 FOOT POUNDS. THAT DOES IT!

(ANNOUNCER)>> UP NEXT WE'LL GET OUR NEW EXHAUST INSTALLED. AND LATER WE'LL GET OUR ENGINE CONTROLLER PROGRAMMED AND TUNE OUR 383.

(RYAN)>> ALRIGHT, LOOKS LIKE WE'RE DIALED IN, IN GOOD SHAPE!

(RYAN)>> HEY GUYS, WELCOME BACK TO TRUCK TECH. NOW WITH OUR TRANSMISSION INSTALLED AND WIRED UP WE'RE READY TO MOVE ON TO OTHER THINGS, LIKE THE EXHAUST SYSTEM. NOW YOU GUYS PROBABLY NOTICED WE'VE ALREADY GOT A

SET OF HEADERS ON THIS THING, AND THEY'RE JBA TITANIUM CERAMIC COATED SHORTY HEADERS WITH INCH AND A HALF PRIMARY TUBES. NOW THEY COME WITH ALL THE HARDWARE AND GASKETS NECESSARY TO INSTALL THESE THINGS, WHICH IS PRETTY STRAIGHT FORWARD SINCE THEY BOLT RIGHT IN PLACE OF THE FACTORY MANIFOLDS. AND THEY OUGHT TO HELP OUR STROKER BREATHE A LITTLE BIT EASIER. NOW WE ALSO PICKED UP A JBA STAINLESS STEEL YPIPE THAT WE'RE GONNA INSTALL UNDERNEATH THE TRUCK RIGHT NOW. THE YPIPE IS A TWO PIECE DESIGN WITH THE DRIVER'S SIDE GOING ON FIRST. AND IT'S A GASKETLESS CONNECTION, WHICH IS NICE. NOW OUR WIDE BAND OTWO SENSOR ALREADY HAD SOME ANTISEIZE ON THE THREADS, BUT IF YOU'RE REUSING AN OLD SENSOR YOU MAY WANT TO ADD SOME BEFORE INSTALLING IT. THE REST OF THE INSTALLATION IS PRETTY STRAIGHT FORWARD, AND THE UBOLT CLAMP CONNECTS THE TWO SIDES. NOW FOR A CAT BACK SYSTEM WE WANTED A DUAL EXHAUST SETUP. SO WE CHECKED OUT FLOWTECH AND ORDERED UP ONE OF THEIR THREE INCH INLET, DUAL TWO AND A HALF INCH OUTLET STRAIGHT OUT OF THE BACK OF THE TRUCK SYSTEMS. IT'S GOT NICE MANDREL BENT TUBING AND A KIND OF SMALL HIGH PERFORMANCE HIGH FLOW MUFFLER. SO THERE SHOULDN'T BE ANY LACK OF SOUND COMING OUT OF THE BACK OF THIS TRUCK.

NOW IT'S A CLAMP TOGETHER SYSTEM DESIGNED TO BOLT ONTO THE FACTORY HANGERS, EXCEPT FOR ON THE DRIVER'S SIDE TAIL PIPE OF COURSE BECAUSE THE FACTORY SYSTEM WAS ONLY A SINGLE OUTLET SETUP. SO WE'LL JUST USE THE PROVIDED HANGER AND WE'LL BE IN GOOD SHAPE. WE'RE GONNA START WITH THE MUFFLER AND THEN WORK OUR WAY REAR WARD. NOW OUR TRUCK'S BEEN MODIFIED PRETTY HEAVILY. IT'S BEEN LOWERED ABOUT FIVE INCHES IN THE BACK. PLUS WE'VE GOT A ROLL PAN INSTEAD OF A BUMPER. SO WE MAY HAVE TO MAKE A COUPLE OF SLIGHT MODIFICATIONS TO THE SYSTEM, LIKE CUTTING OFF THAT EXTRA SIX INCHES OF TAIL PIPE. ALRIGHT NOW WE'VE GOT OUR CAT BACK EXHAUST SYSTEM AND OUR YPIPE WHERE THEY NEED TO BE, BUT THERE'S NOTHING CONNECTING THE TWO CAUSE THIS IS WHERE THE CATALYTIC CONVERTER WENT, AND WHEN WE PURCHASED THIS TRUCK SOMEBODY HAD ALREADY HACKED OFF AND REMOVED THE OLD AND RATHER INEFFICIENT PELLET STYLE CONVERTER. AND WE WANT THIS TRUCK TO BE EMISSIONS COMPLIANT AND WE

DON'T WANT TO UNNECESSARILY PUMP FUMES AND SMOG OUT THE TAIL PIPE. SO WE'RE GONNA BE INSTALLING A HIGH FLOW HONEYCOMB STYLE CATALYTIC CONVERTER.

NOW WHAT I'M GONNA TRY TO DO IS WELD IT DIRECTLY TO THE YPIPE. THEN JUST USE A SMALL SECTION OF TUBING TO CONNECT THE CONVERTER TO THE CAT BACK EXHAUST SYSTEM. THAT WAY WE CAN JUST HAVE ONE SINGLE CLAMP ATTACHING THE TWO. THAT MEANS WE'VE GOT A LITTLE WELDING TO DO.

NOW OUR CONVERTER WAS DESIGNED TO BE USED WITH TWO AND A HALF INCH TUBING, BUT OUR THREE AND A HALF INCH TUBING CAN BE MADE TO WORK, WE JUST HAVE TO CUT THE END OF IT OFF SO IT CAN BE BUTT WELDED DIRECTLY TO THE CONVERTER. AND SINCE IT'S STAINLESS, WE DECIDED TO TIG WELD IT FOR A CLEANER LOOK. ALRIGHT, WITH EVERYTHING COMPLETELY WELDED WE'VE GOT

A NICE STAINLESS STEEL CATALYTIC CONVERTER AND YPIPE ASSEMBLY THAT DOESN'T REQUIRE ANY ADDITIONAL CLAMPS OR STRAPS TO KEEP IT ALL ASSEMBLED. NOW ONCE WE WRESTLE THIS THING INTO POSITION AND ATTACH IT TO OUR CAB BACK, WELL OUR EXHAUST SYSTEM WILL BE JUST ABOUT DONE.

A STAINLESS STEEL STRAP OR BAND CLAMP CONNECTS THE TWO WITHOUT DISTORTING THE METAL.

[ air ratchet spinning ]

(RYAN)>> NOW THESE TAIL PIPES LOOK A LITTLE FUNNY STICKING OUT OF THE BACK OF THE TRUCK, BUT THERE'S NOTHING WRONG WITH THE EXHAUST SYSTEM. IT'S JUST THAT IT WAS DESIGNED FOR A TRUCK THAT HAD A BUMPER STICKING OFF THE BACK OF IT ABOUT SIX OR EIGHT INCHES, THAT WE DITCHED IN FAVOR OF THE SMOOTHER ROLL PAN. SO ALL WE'VE GOT TO DO IS TRIM THESE TAIL PIPES TO FIT AND WE'LL BE IN GOOD SHAPE.

(ANNOUNCER)>> AFTER THE BREAK WE'LL FIRE UP OUR 383 FOR THE FIRST TIME, STICK AROUND!

(RYAN)>> HEY GUYS, WELCOME BACK TO THE SHOP. NOW OVER THE BREAK WE HAD A CHANCE TO FINALIZE OUR

EXHAUST SYSTEM AND THE POSITIONING OF THE TAIL PIPES. WE EVEN ADDED A COUPLE OF NICE STAINLESS STEEL EXHAUST TIPS THAT WE'VE HAD LAYING AROUND THE SHOP FOR A WHILE, AND IT'S LOOKING PRETTY GOOD. WITH THIS DONE, WELL WE'RE ONE STEP CLOSER TO FIRING THIS THING UP. ALRIGHT, NOW HERE IN THE CAB WE'VE GOT A LITTLE BIT OF SETUP WORK TO DO BEFORE THOSE TAIL PIPES CAN ACTUALLY START MAKING SOME NOISE. NOW LIKE WE TOLD YOU GUYS, WE'VE GOT STAND ALONE CONTROLLERS FOR BOTH THE ENGINE AND TRANSMISSION. WE'VE GOT THEM MOUNTED HERE ON A LITTLE METAL PANEL AT THE FRONT OF THE TRANS TUNNEL.

NOW WE DID THAT FOR A FEW REASONS. ONE, WE WANTED THEM INSIDE THE CAB TO ISOLATE THEM FROM OTHER ELECTRICALLY NOISY COMPONENTS LIKE A COIL OR IGNITION WIRES. PLUS YOU NEED TO HOOK THEM UP TO THE HAND HELD CONTROLLERS EVERY ONCE IN A WHILE, AND THEY'VE GOT INDICATOR AND DIAGNOSTIC LED'S ON THE FRONT OF THE

CONTROL UNIT, WHICH IS NICE TO SEE. ALRIGHT, NOW WITH ALL OUR CONNECTIONS MADE, ALL WE'VE GOT TO DO IS WALK THROUGH THE SETUP WIZARD FOR BOTH OF THESE CONTROL UNITS, AND THAT'LL PROVIDE SOME INFORMATION TO THE ECU TO MAKE SURE EVERYTHING

FUNCTIONS CORRECTLY. I'LL START WITH THE TRANSMISSION.

OBVIOUSLY OUR TRANS IS A FOURL-60, BUT THE SYSTEM WILL COVER MANY OTHERS.

OUR TIRE SIZE IS 29.3 INCHES.

OUR GEAR RATIO IS 3.73 TO ONE. THERE'S PROBABLY NO REASON TO SPIN THIS 383 PAST 6,000 RPM. NOW THROTTLE POSITION IS ONE OF THE THINGS THE COMPUTER

USES TO DETERMINE WHEN TO APPLY THE TORQUE CONVERTER CLUTCH, AND IT NEEDS TO KNOW ITS MINIMUM AND MAXIMUM POSITION. HEY KEVIN, FLOOR IT FOR ME WILL YA? JUST HOLD IT WIDE OPEN. JUST HOLD IT THERE, DO NOT MOVE THE THROTTLE, CLOSE THROTTLE, TURN KEY OFF FOR 10 SECONDS TO SAVE THE TUNE. NOW THAT TAKES CARE OF THE TRANSMISSION, TIME TO MOVE ONTO THE ENGINE STAND ALONE CONTROLLER, AND IT WANTS TO KNOW THE ENGINE'S DISPLACEMENT, THE TARGET IDLE RPM, AND THE REV LIMIT. IT ALSO WANTS TO KNOW WHAT KIND OF FUEL WE'LL BE BURNING. GASOLINE, WE HAVE A RETURN STYLE FUEL SYSTEM, AND IT WANTS TO KNOW WHAT KIND OF CRANK TRIGGER IT'S GONNA SEE. WE WENT WITH THE FAST DISTRIBUTOR. YOU CAN ALSO MAKE ADJUSTMENTS TO THE BASE TIMING CURVE.

WE LEFT OURS ALONE BUT DID SELECT THE MULTIPORT EFI SYSTEM. OUR SYSTEM IS RUNNING 39 POUND AN HOUR INJECTORS, AND WE'RE GONNA BE RUNNING THEM AT 43 PSI. JUST LIKE WE DID FOR THE TRANSMISSION, WELL THE ENGINE CONTROLLER NEEDS TO KNOW THE THROTTLE POSITION BOTH AT IDLE AND AT WIDE OPEN THROTTLE. ALRIGHT, GO WIDE OPEN, OKAY.

NOW THE FUEL SYSTEM PRESSURE WE'RE AFTER IS 43 PSI. WE HAVE BOTH AN ELECTRICAL AND ANALOG READING OF THAT PRESSURE. ONCE WE'VE GOT IT DIALED IN, WE'LL JUST LOCK DOWN THE ADJUSTOR. THERE'S 43 RIGHT THERE. AND AFTER A QUICK DOUBLE CHECK TO VERIFY THAT THE FUEL RAIL PRESSURE SENSOR MATCHES THE GAUGE, WE CAN MOVE ON. COOL, WE'RE IN GOOD SHAPE.

ALRIGHT NOW THIS DEVICE IS PROMPTING US TO FIRE UP THE ENGINE AND LET IT HIT 170 DEGREES SO WE CAN MOVE ON TO THE NEXT COUPLE OF STEPS. NOW THIS IS A FRESH ENGINE, SO WE'VE TRIPLE CHECKED

EVERYTHING AND MADE SURE THAT IT'S GOOD TO GO. I THINK WE'RE READY TO START THIS THING, GO FOR IT. [ engine fires up ]

(RYAN)>> THAT THING FIRED RIGHT UP, NICE!

QUICK PEAK UNDERNEATH FOR LEAKS. IT'S COOL, NO LEAKS! NO WEIRD SOUNDS! THAT SOUNDS PRETTY GOOD!

COOL, WE'LL LET THAT RUN FOR A FEW MINUTES, HIT 170, AND MOVE ON.

(RYAN)>> WELCOME BACK TO THE SHOP. WELL THE ENGINE'S GOT SOME HEAT IN IT AND WE'VE GOT

JUST A COUPLE OF STEPS TO TAKE CARE OF TO FINISH UP THE SETUP ON OUR NEW EFI. THE NEXT THING WE'VE GOT TO DO IS VERIFY THE TIMING. NOW WITH THIS EFI SYSTEM YOU HAVE THE OPTION OF LETTING THE COMPUTER CONTROL THE TIMING OR HAVING A DISTRIBUTOR CONTROL THE TIMING WITH TRADITIONAL VACUUM AND MECHANICAL ADVANCE CURVES. WE'RE GONNA LET THE COMPUTER CONTROL OURS. THIS IS BASICALLY SYNCHING UP THE COMPUTER AND THE

IGNITION, MAKING SURE THAT EVERYTHING IS COMPLETELY ACCURATE. ALL WE HAD TO DO WAS LINE UP THE TIMING MARK USING THE TIMING LIGHT SET AT 20 DEGREES OF ADVANCE. ALRIGHT, IT LOOKS LIKE WE'RE DIALED IN AND IN GOOD SHAPE. ALRIGHT, NEXT STEP IS DOING AN IAC, OR IDLE AIR CONTROL, CALIBRATION. WHAT WE WANT TO DO IS GET THIS SLIDER HERE IN THIS TARGET AREA. WE DO THAT WITH THE IDLE SCREW. ALL WE HAD TO DO WAS LOOSEN OR TIGHTEN THE SET SCREW UNTIL WE REACHED THE TARGET AREA. THAT WAS PRETTY EVIDENT BECAUSE THE INDICATOR BAR IN THE HAND HELD TURNED GREEN. WHEN THAT HAPPENED WE JUST TIGHTENED DOWN THE JAMB NUT AND MOVED ON. ALRIGHT, ONE FINAL CALIBRATION OF THE TPS WITH THE THROTTLE CLOSED, WE'RE DONE. [ engine idling ]

(RYAN)>> LOOK AT THAT, IDLES GOOD, AIR/FUEL RATIO IS GOOD, WE'RE IN GOOD SHAPE. NOW THIS THING'S IN LEARNING MODE AND THE MORE WE LET IT RUN AND THE MORE WE DRIVE IT WHEN WE FINALLY GET IT OUT ON THE ROAD, THE MORE IT'LL DIAL ITSELF IN AND TUNE ITSELF, WHICH IS REALLY NICE. SO FAR SO GOOD! [ engine revving ]

(RYAN)>> SOUNDS A LOT BETTER THAN THAT OLD 350. [ engine revving ]

(RYAN)>> ALRIGHT, NOW IF YOU'RE WORKING ON A PROJECT LIKE AN ENGINE SWAP OR SOMETHING LIKE THAT WHERE YOU NEED TO GO FROM AN OE STYLE QUICK CONNECT FITTING ON A FUEL RAIL TO AN AFTERMARKET A/N STYLE FUEL HOSE, WELL EARL'S HAS JUST THE PART FOR YOU. NOW THIS ANODIZED BLUE ADAPTER IS ALL METAL EXCEPT FOR THE SEALING ORINGS OF COURSE, NO PLASTIC PARTS TO FAIL. NOW ON ONE END IT'LL FIT A THREEEIGHTHS QUICK CONNECT FITTING, ON THE OTHER A DASH SIX.

THIS ADAPTER FROM EARL'S MAKES MERGING AFTERMARKET PARTS WITH OE PARTS A SIMPLE TASK. NOW IF YOUR TRUCK IS CARBURETED, AND ESPECIALLY IF IT'S GOT A MULTICARB SETUP ON IT, AND YOU WANT TO BALANCE THE CARBURETORS OR JUST DIAL IN THE IDLE MIXTURE FOR YOUR ONE CARBURETOR, WELL THIS GUNSON COLOR TUNE TOOL FROM LMC TRUCK MAY BE HELPFUL. THIS PART THREADS IN PLACE OF THE SPARK PLUG. AND SINCE IT'S CLEAR AROUND THE ELECTRODE, IT ALLOWS YOU TO SEE INSIDE THE COMBUSTION CHAMBER, AND YOU CAN DIAL IN THE MIXTURE UNTIL YOU GET THE RESULTS THAT YOU'RE HAPPY WITH. THE KIT INCLUDES ALL THE PARTS YOU SEE HERE, AND YOU CAN PICK YOURS UP FROM LMC TRUCK. NOW VALVE COVER BOLTS AREN'T SOMETHING YOU NORMALLY THINK YOU NEED TO UPGRADE, BUT IF YOU'VE EVER ROUNDED OFF A HARD TO REACH HEX DRIVE FASTENER WHILE TAKING OFF THE VALVE COVER ON YOUR DURAMAX, WELL YOU MAY CHANGE YOUR MIND. THESE 12 POINT FASTENERS FROM ARP WILL SOLVE THAT STRIPPED BOLT PROBLEM. NOW I'M SURE YOU GUYS ARE FAMILIAR WITH ALL THE OTHER BENEFITS OF UPGRADING TO ARP BOLTS. THESE ARE FOR THE SIXSIX, AND THE LBZ, LLY,

LML, LMM VERSIONS. THESE AMERICAN MADE ARP BOLTS ARE EASY TO FIND. GUYS, THANKS FOR WATCHING TRUCK TECH, SEE YOU NEXT TIME.