Replacing Rusted Rocker Panels and Cab Corners on a Chevy Silverado

(ANNOUNCER)>> TODAY WE'RE TACKLING THE BODY WORK ON OUR 1993 SILVERADO. WE'RE REPAIRING THE RUSTED ROCKERS AND ADDING A ROLL PAN BEFORE TOPPING IT ALL OFF WITH A NEW COWL INDUCTION HOOD. IT'S ALL TODAY HERE ON TRUCK TECH.

(KEVIN)>> HEY WELCOME TO TRUCK TECH. WELL CHECK OUT THE NEW HYPER LOW STANCE OF OUR '93 FULL SIZE CHEVY PICK UP. THANKS TO AN AGGRESSIVE FIVESIX DROP KIT THAT'S NOT ONLY GOING TO CHANGE THE WAY THIS TRUCK LOOKS, BUT ALSO THE WAY IT HANDLES. BUT WE'RE NOT DONE YET.

GOT SOME MAJOR STYLING CHANGES TO DO LIKE GET RID OF ALL THESE GAUDY WORN OUT SIDE MOLDINGS, AND THE HORRIBLE TWO TONE PAINT JOB, NOT TO MENTION THE CAVERNOUS HOLES IN THE SHEET METAL.

(RYAN)>> NOW ALONG WITH THE RUST REPAIR WE'VE ALSO GOT A BULLET HOLE TO FIX IN THE HOOD. YES THAT'S RIGHT, A BULLET HOLE. SO WE'RE GONNA BE TAKING CARE OF THOSE THINGS AND WE'RE GONNA BE MAKING A COUPLE OF BODY MODIFICATIONS. NOW LIKE KEVIN SAID, THE TRUCK LOOKS A LOT BETTER SITTING CLOSER TO THE GROUND, BUT WITH THE TWO TONE PAINT JOB AND ALL THE WORN OUT TRIM, IT KINDA LOOKS LIKE A GRANDPA TRUCK AND IT'S JUST NOT WHAT WE'RE AFTER.

(KEVIN)>> THERE ARE CERTAIN AREAS IN THIS PARTICULAR BODY STYLE THAT ARE PRONE TO RUST, PRIMARILY THE ROCKERS AND THE CAB CORNERS. LETS TAKE A CLOSER LOOK AND SEE HOW BAD IT IS. A PRY BAR SERVES AS A TEST, NOT ONLY TO TEST TO SEE WHAT IS RUSTED BUT ALSO TO TEST THE INTEGRITY OF THE METAL THAT'S NOT RUSTED, AND WILL GIVE ME A DETERMINATION AS TO WHERE I CAN ACTUALLY START THE REPAIR, WHICH IS RIGHT ABOUT HERE. NOW THE CAB CORNER, WELL OBVIOUSLY THERE'S A HOLE IN IT, BUT SOMETIMES YOUR METAL CAN TALK TO YOU. HERE'S WHAT I MEAN, LISTEN. SOLID METAL, THAT'S THE SAME PRESSURE RIGHT THERE AND IT GOES AWAY. THERE'S THE METAL SOLID AGAIN. SO AGAIN, WAY PAST THE ACTUAL RUST HOLE IS THE ACTUAL CORROSION FROM THE BACK SIDE. SO WE OBVIOUSLY HAVE TO REPLACE THIS CAB CORNER AND SOME SURROUNDING METAL AROUND THE ACTUAL HOLE, BUT HERE'S WHERE YOU RUN INTO A CHALLENGE AS WELL. TO PROPERLY DO THIS YOU HAVE TO HAVE ACCESS TO THE BACK SIDE OF THIS CAUSE THERE'S A SEAM RIGHT THERE, I CAN FEEL IT, BUT YOU CAN'T SEE IT. SO THAT MEANS THE BED'S GOT TO COME OFF TO PROPERLY FIX THIS CAB CORNER. WITH EVERYTHING OUT OF THE WAY, I'M STARTING TO TRIM THE CAB CORNER OUT. I'M CUTTING THE METAL PAST WHERE MY HAMMER TAP SOUNDED SOLID JUST TO MAKE SURE I'M CUTTING INTO GOOD METAL

BUT NOT PAST WHERE MY PATCH PANEL WILL SIT. SOMETIMES YOU CAN GET LUCKY AND THE WHOLE RUSTY PATCH COMES OFF AND YOU CAN USE IT AS A TEMPLATE. BUT NOT THIS TIME, THIS IS WASTED. LOOK AT THAT! TYPICALLY RUST GOES WAY PAST WHERE IT'S VISIBLE FROM THE OUTSIDE. IT'S NO DIFFERENT HERE. SO WE'RE LUCKY WE CUT ALL OF THAT OUT. USING A PERMANENT MARKER I'M MARKING MY CUT LINES ALONG THE ROCKER PANEL WHERE I KNOW THE METAL'S GOOD BUT I CAN TAKE ADVANTAGE OF SOME STRENGTH IN THE REAL ESTATE AT THE CORNERS. A FOUR INCH CUTOFF WHEEL GETS THE JOB DONE AND WE GET OUR CUTOFF WHEELS FROM OUR BUDDIES AT INDUSTRIAL DEPOT.

NOW IF THE RUST WAS BAD ENOUGH IN THIS TRUCK, WE'D BE TACKING ADVANTAGE OF THE ENTIRE PATCH PANEL. BUT THEN WE'D HAVE TO REMOVE ALL THE WEATHER SEALS, THE SEAL PLATES, HE FENDER, THE DOOR, TO GET ACCESS TO EVERYTHING. FORTUNATELY WE CAN SCAB INTO WHAT'S ALREADY THERE. NOW HERE IT'S NOT REALLY WHAT IT LOOKS LIKE. I'M NOT TRYING TO TEAR THE METAL APART WITH MY BARE HANDS.

WHAT I'M DOING IS STRENGTH TESTING WHAT I HAVEN'T CUT. I KNOW WHERE THE TRUST IS BUT SOMETIMES YOU CAN GET A FEEL FOR WHAT'S STILL GOOD WAND WHAT YOU CAN STILL WELD TO. ALRIGHT NOW I'M GONNA GET A VACUUM. A VACUUM CLEANER IS A GREAT TOOL TO HAVE AROUND THE BODY SHOP BECAUSE IT KEEPS YOU FROM HAVING TO BLOW THAT RUST DUST UP INTO YOUR LUNGS, AND AT THE SAME TIME YOU GET A NICE LOOK AT THE TWO PINCHED PIECES OF METAL AND YOU CAN MAKE A DETERMINATION AS TO WHAT'S SAVABLE AND WHAT'S NOT.

WE GOT OUR SHEET METAL PATCHES FROM CLASSIC PARTS OF AMERICA. AND IF YOU TAKE A CLOSER LOOK AT THESE, YOU GET A

GLIMPSE AT HOW THIS VEHICLE WAS CONSTRUCTED

ON THE ASSEMBLY LINE. THE OUTER ROCKER, WHICH IS ACTUALLY UNISIDE FROM THE FACTORY, GOES ON FIRST AND THEN FOLLOWED BY THE CAB

CORNER IS HOW IT WAS ASSEMBLED. YOU HAVE THE OPPORTUNITY TO PUT THE ENTIRE PATCH PANEL

IN IF YOUR TRUCK IS THAT RUSTY.

OR IF YOU'RE TRUCK IS LIKE OURS AND YOU'VE STILL GOT SOME GOOD METAL TO WELD TO, YOU CAN USE YOUR CUTOUTS AS A TEMPLATE, WHICH IS EXACTLY WHAT WE'RE GONNA DO. USING OUR RUSTY PART AS A TEMPLATE, I'M GONNA DRAW OUT AND MAKE MY FIRST CUT. EVEN THOUGH I'M USING THE PIECE THAT I CUT OFF OF OUR PICK UP TRUCK AS A TEMPLATE, I'M MAKING MY MARKS PAST THE CUT LINE. THAT WAY I CAN SNEAK UP ON IT JUST IN CASE THERE'S

SOME ALIGNMENT ISSUES DUE TO DIFFERENCES IN THE STAMPINGS. THE FINE LINE TAPE GIVES ME A PERFECT, CRISP, AND STRAIGHT EDGE TO WORK OFF OF. NOW SOMETIMES THE HEAT FROM THE CUTTING WHEEL WILL ACTUALLY RELEASE THE ADHESIVE ON THE MASKING TAPE. SO I'M MAKING A PERMANENT MARKER LINE JUST FOR INSURANCE. WHEN I PULL THE TAPE OFF, I'VE GOT A PERMANENT MARKER LINE THAT WON'T MELT. IF I'VE GOT FLAT SHEET METAL AND I WANT A NICE STRAIGHT CUT, I LIKE TO USE THE LARGER FOUR INCH DIAMETER WHEELS. IF YOU LET THE BLADE EAT PROPERLY AND DON'T FORCE IT YOU GET A VERY STRAIGHT, VERY PRECISE CUT.

A BENCH VICE IS NICE TO LOCK DOWN YOUR WORK PIECE SO YOU CAN USE BOTH HANDS TO CUT, BUT YOU COULD ALSO DO THIS WITH A SET OF LOCKING PLIERS.

COOL, THAT FITS! TO DRESS UP THE AREA BEFORE WE LOCK IN THE ROCKER PANEL WE'RE USING A COMBINATION OF WIRE BRUSHES AND ABRASIVE WHEELS TO TRIM DOWN AND MAKE SURE THAT OUR MATING SURFACES ARE EXACTLY WHAT WE NEED. THE LOCTITE EXTEND COATING CONVERTS THE RUST THAT'S LEFT BEHIND TO A ZINC PHOSPHATE, WHICH IS PRIMABLE. WE'RE FOLLOWING IT WITH WELD THROUGH PRIMER, WHICH WILL

SEAL THE RUST IN AND MAKE SURE THAT IT DOESN'T GROW. A MATCO PANEL PUNCH TAKES THE PLACE OF FACTORY ELECTRIC ROSETTE WELDS AND ALLOWS US TO PUT THIS PIECE IN AND MIMIC THE FACTORY. I'M GOING TO LOCK THE UPPER CORNER IN PLACE WITH THIS

SELF DRILLING PHILLIPS HEAD SCREW BECAUSE I'VE STILL GOT ANOTHER CUT TO DO ON THAT END. THEN WE CAN TACK IT IN PLACE AND GET READY FOR A TEST FIT AGAINST THE BOTTOM OF THE DOOR.

ALRIGHT, EVERYTHING'S LOOKING PRETTY DARN GOOD EXCEPT FOR IT'S A LITTLE TIGHT HERE. BUT IF YOU CHECK THIS OUT, YOU'LL NOTICE THAT OUR ALIGNMENT IS A LITTLE OFF FROM THE DOOR TO

THE ACTUAL CAB CORNER. SO WE'LL MAKE A SLIGHT ADJUSTMENT ON THAT LATCH AND KICK THIS BACK UP INTO ALIGNMENT. THEN WE'RE READY FOR THAT CAB CORNER. THEN WE CAN BURN IT ALL IN.

(ANNOUNCER)>> COMING UP, HOW TO WELD IN A STEEL ROLL PAN. AND LATER, WELDING THE CAB CORNER PATCH.

(RYAN)>> HEY GUYS, WELCOME BACK TO TRUCK TECH. WELL WHILE KEVIN DOES SOME RUST REPAIR, I FIGURE I OUGHTA DO SOME WORK AS WELL.

NOW LIKE WE SHOWED YOU, OUR FACTORY HOOD HAS A BULLET HOLE IN IT, AND WE'RE GONNA TAKE THE EASY WAY OUT WHEN IT COMES TO FIXING IT. WE'RE JUST GONNA REPLACE IT WITH THIS MUCH COOLER STEEL COWL HOOD THAT WE PICKED UP FROM CLASSIC PARTS OF AMERICA. NOW THIS IS A REALLY NICE STAMPING AND IT'S GONNA TAKE

MINIMAL EFFORT TO GET IT PREPPED FOR PAINT. AND LIKE WE TOLD YOU UP FRONT, WE'RE TRYING TO GET RID OF SOME OF THE GRANDPA STYLING IN THIS TRUCK. AND THAT MEANS WE'RE GONNA DITCH THE FACTORY STEP BUMPER AND REPLACE IT WITH A SMOOTHER AND MUCH COOLER STEEL ROLL PAN. SO I'VE GOT SOME WORK TO DO. NOW THE FIRST THING WE'RE DOING IS USING A STRIPPING DISC TO GET RID OF THE PAINT TO GET DOW TO BARE STEEL SO WE CAN WELD THIS IN. AND WE'RE GONNA GET RID OF THE TAIL GATE TO GIVE US A LITTLE BIT MORE ROOM TO WORK. ALRIGHT, NOW HERE'S THE STEEL ROLL PAN FROM CLASSIC

PARTS OF AMERICA THAT WE'RE GONNA BE WELDING IN. NOW THEY HAD A COUPLE OF DIFFERENT OPTIONS AVAILABLE BOTH WITH AND WITHOUT THE LICENSE PLATE RECESS. WE OBVIOUSLY WENT WITH. NOW I'VE GOT THE PAINT CLEANED UP ON THE EDGES, BUT I'VE ALSO GOT TO MARK ABOUT A HALF DOZEN HOLES SO WE CAN MAKE SOME ROSETTE WELDS.

NOW ONE THING THE ROLL PAN DIDN'T COME WITH WAS SOME

SORT OF PROVISION FOR ANY KIND OF LICENSE PLATE OR TAG LIGHT. SO WHAT WE DID WAS JUST DRILL A COUPLE OF HOLES, USE A DIE GRINDER WITH A CARBIDE BIT TO MAKE THE CONTOUR MATCH THE OE TAG LIGHTS. THAT WAY WE CAN STAY LEGAL, RECYCLE SOME PARTS, AND THEY'LL PLUG RIGHT INTO THE FACTORY WIRING HARNESS. AND SINCE IT'S KINDA HARD TO WELD TO PAINT, I'M USING A LITTLE DIE GRINDER AND A SANDING DISC TO

BUZZ DOWN TO BARE STEEL. ALSO BUZZING DOWN THE EDGES OF THE ROLL PAN JUST TO GET RID OF SOME OF THE COATING FOR SOME NICE, CLEAN WELDS. AFTER LINING THINGS UP, I'M GOING TO TEMPORARILY HOLD THE PAN IN PLACE WITH SOME SHEET METAL SCREWS SO I CAN WORK THE ENDS OF THE ROLL PAN WITHOUT HAVING TO HOLD THE THING UP.

ONCE WE'RE HAPPY WITH HOW IT SITS AND HOW IT LINES UP, WE'LL ADD A FEW TACK WELDS TO LOCK IT DOWN, BUT WE'RE NOT GONNA FINISH WELD IT JUST YET. MAKE SURE IT DOESN'T HIT BEFORE I GET TOO FAR COMMITTED.

NOW TO WELD IN OUR ROLL PAN I'M USING OUR MILLERMATIC 140 AUTO SET WELDER. IT'S A 120 VOLT MIG. NOW THE AUTO SET, WELL ALL YOU'VE GOT TO DO IS SELECT

YOUR WIRE THICKNESS DIAMETER AND YOUR MATERIAL THICKNESS DIAMETER AND IT SETS THE MACHINE UP FOR YOU. NOW IF YOU WANT TO YOU CAN STILL SET YOUR WIRE SPEED AND MATERIAL THICKNESS INDEPENDENTLY, BUT SOMETIMES IT'S JUST NICE TO LET THE MACHINE DO THE WORK FOR YOU.

SO IF YOU GUYS ARE WORRIED ABOUT WELDING ON THIN SHEET METAL, TAKE A LOOK AT THE AUTO SET.

(KEVIN)>> WHAT RYAN IS DOING IS SHEET METAL WELDING 101. SINCE THESE ARE SINGLE WALLED SHEET METAL PANELS, YOU'VE GOT TO SPACE OUT YOUR TACKS AND ALLOW THE METAL TO COOL.

THIS REDUCES BOTH BLOW THROUGH AND WARPAGE. HE'S ALSO USING A SIMPLE SCREW DRIVE TO PRESS THE METAL PANELS TOGETHER FOR HIS ROSETTES.

(RYAN)>> ALRIGHT, WITH THIS THING ALL WELDED IN ALL I'VE GOT TO DO IS GRIND IT DOWN AND PREP IT FOR FILLER.

NOW I'M NOT A BODY MAN, YOU GUYS KNOW THAT, BUT I THINK I DID A PRETTY DECENT JOB OF WELDING THIS THING INTO POSITION. AND IT'S SOMETHING YOU GUYS CAN DO AT HOME. NOW THESE ROLL PANS ARE AVAILABLE IN BOLT IN VERSIONS. NOW WE PREFER THE WELD IN JUST BECAUSE IT'S SMOOTH AND SEAMLESS. NOW THESE ROLL PANS ONLY COST ABOUT $100 BUCKS.

NOW I'M NOT SURE WHAT ELSE YOU COULD DO TO A TRUCK TO MAKE IT CUSTOM FOR ANY CHEAPER.

(KEVIN)>> PREPPING THE WELDS IS PRETTY MUCH STRAIGHT FORWARD. USING A 24 GRIT DISC, RYAN IS USING A ROTARY GRINDER TO LEVEL THE WELD POOL DOWN TO THE LEVEL OF THE SHEET METAL SURROUNDING, FAIRLY SIMPLE. JUST REMEMBER THAT YOU CAN GENERATE A LOT OF HEAT AND CAUSE WARPAGE WITH A GRINDER ITSELF. FOR THE ROSETTE WELDS IT JUST REQUIRES A BRUSHING SINCE THE WELD POOL IS LOW AND FLAT.

(RYAN)>> ALRIGHT, NOW IF YOU'RE DOING THIS JOB AT HOME AND SOME TIME IS GOING TO PASS IN BETWEEN METAL WORK AND PAINT, MAKE SURE YOU HIT THIS BARE STEEL WITH SOME SORT OF CORROSION INHIBITOR. FOR NOW WE'RE GONNA THROW THE TAILGATE BACK ON THIS THING SO WE CAN SEE WHAT IT LOOKS LIKE HERE IN A MINUTE.

(ANNOUNCER)>> WHEN WE COME BACK, HOW TO SAFELY REMOVE GLUED ON BADGES.

(RYAN)>> WELL THAT WORKED PRETTY GOOD.

(KEVIN)>> HEY WELCOME BACK TO TRUCK TECH WHERE WE'RE KNEE DEEP IN FIXING UP OUR '93 CHEVY PICK UP, DOING SOME RUST REPAIR AND CUSTOM SHEET METAL WORK.

(RYAN)>> NOW IN ADDITION TO THAT SHEET METAL WORK WE TOLD YOU RIGHT UP FRONT WE WANT TO GET RID OF SOME OF THE EXCESS TRIM ON THIS TRUCK, AND THIS ALUMINUM

CHEVY BADGE RUNS END TO END ON THE TAILGATE AND WE WANT TO GET RID OF IT. NOW THEY DO MAKE WEDGE TYPE TOOLS LIKE THIS TO GET IN BEHIND THINGS LIKE THIS AND PRY THEM AWAY FROM THE SHEET METAL. BUT YOUR RUN THE RISK OF DAMAGING THE METAL UNDERNEATH THE PIECE OF TRIM YOU'RE TRYING TO REMOVE. NOW IF YOU HAD AN OLD TRUCK WITH GOOD THICK SHEET METAL, YOU'D PROBABLY BE OKAY. BUT THE NEWER THE TRUCK, THE THINNER THE SHEET METAL, AND THE GREATER THE RISK.

SO WE FIGURED THIS WINDSHIELD WIRE A TRY AND SEE HOW IT WORKS. NOW THE ABRASIVE WIRE JUST KINDA CUTS THROUGH THE ADHESIVE BACKING AS I WORK IT BACK AND FORTH. SEEMS TO BE DOING A PRETTY GOOD JOB AND I BET WE COULD REUSE THIS EMBLEM IF WE HAD TO. WELL THAT WORKED PRETTY GOOD.

(KEVIN)>> NOW THE ROCKER SECTION WE'VE GOT IN HERE, IT'S FULLY WELDED, READY FOR GRINDING AND THEN FILLING. WE'VE UTILIZED THE CORNER FOR STRENGTH AND IT ACTUALLY FITS PRETTY DARN GOOD RIGHT HERE. SO NOW IT'S TIME TO FIT THE CAB CORNER. NOW IT'S ALWAYS A GOOD IDEA TO USE AS MUCH OF THE ORIGINAL SHEET METAL, ESPECIALLY ALONG STYLE LINES, AS POSSIBLE. THEY GIVE YOU MORE HERE IN THE THIS PATCH PANEL BUT IT'S NOT A PERFECT PRESSING. IT'S MORE OF A SUGGESTION OF A CAB CORNER. SO WHAT WE'RE GONNA DO IS UTILIZE THIS, SEAM THIS RIGHT ABOUT HERE, AND KINDA SNEAK UP ON IT. YOU SORTA HAVE TO MAKE ADJUSTMENTS AS YOU GO BECAUSE YOU HAVE TO ALSO CONSIDER THE PANEL GAP HERE. LETS GET STARTED. I'M DRAWING IN LINES WITH A CONTRASTING COLOR TO GIVE MYSELF A GUIDE OR A REFERENCE TO CUT TO. BUT AT THE SAME TIME I'M NOT USING THE EXACT LINE. I'M OVER CUTTING JUST TO MAKE SURE THAT I'VE GOT ENOUGH ROOM TO TRIM.

GET USED TO THE FACT THAT YOU'RE GONNA BE TEST FITTING OVER, AND OVER, AND OVER AGAIN. THIS IS PRIMARILY TO RECREATE THE PANEL GAP THAT THE FACTORY HAD ESTABLISHED. AGAIN I'M USING REFERENCE MARKS AS A GUIDE, SETTING IT INTO PLACE, HOLDING IT WITH MY HAND RATHER THAN SCREWS, AND CLAMPING IT INTO PLACE ON THE BACK SIDE EDGE. A SELF DRILLING SHEET METAL SCREW LOCATES IT AND HOLDS IT ON THE BOTTOM WHEN I CAN MAKE MY CUT THROUGH BOTH PANELS ON THE CAB CORNER. THIS ESTABLISHES A LINE WITH A ONESIXTEENTH INCH GAP THAT MAKES IT PERFECT FOR WELDING, AND QUITE EASY TO FIT SINCE THE SAME BLADE CUT BOTH PANELS. NOW BEFORE I COMMIT TO WELDING, I'M GONNA DOUBLE

CHECK MY REFERENCE MARKS AGAINST THE CLOSED DOOR JUST TO BE SURE OF MY PRECISE PLACEMENT. YEP, THERE WE ARE.

I'M GRINDING ABOUT A QUARTER INCH OF THE PAINT OFF ON EACH SIDE OF THE WELD. THAT WAY I GET A NICE CLEAN WELD WITHOUT CONTAMINATION. NOW HERE'S A TIP THAT'LL REALLY HELP CONTROL BLOW THROUGH ON WELDING SHEET METAL. PREP THE BACK SIDE AND GET RID OF THE BURRS. YOU'D BE SURPRISED HOW MUCH IT HELPS. ANOTHER TIP IS USING A PAINT STIR STICK AS AN ESTABLISHED GUIDE TO CONTROL YOUR PANEL GAP. IT DOES A GREAT JOB AS A SHIM AND ALLOWS YOU TO FOCUS ON THE WELDING. AS USUAL, YOU KNOW THE DRILL, SPACE YOUR TACKS APART AND SNEAK UP ON IT. DON'T TRY AND BUILD TOO MUCH HEAT IN. THE PUNCHED HOLES HELP WITH YOUR ROSETTE WELDS AND TO ESTABLISH THE LOOK OF THE FACTORY SPOT WELD. THE END RESULT IS A REPAIR THAT ONCE IT'S FINISHED, PUTTIED, PRIMERED, AND BLOCKED, IS GOING TO BE A PERFECT CAB CORNER. ALRIGHT, LETS CLOSE THE DOOR AND SEE WHAT WE'VE GOT. THE GAP'S GREAT DOWN TO HERE. GETS A LITTLE WIDER HERE, BACK TO PERFECT RIGHT HERE. THAT'S OKAY, I CAN LIVE WITH THAT. THAT'S WHAT FILLERS ARE FOR. SKIM COAT WILL FIX THAT. WHAT'S MORE IMPORTANT THAN THIS GAP BEING A LITTLE WIDE IS THE RELATIONSHIP FROM THIS PANEL TO THIS PANEL, AND WE ARE BANG ON RIGHT THERE. SO I AM HAPPY WITH THIS CAB CORNER REPAIR.

(RYAN)>> HEY GUYS, WELCOME BACK TO THE SHOP.

WELL HERE IN FRONT OF ME IS ALL THE STAINLESS STEEL TRIM, BADGING, BUMPER, HOOD, AND BODY CLADDING THAT WE PULLED OFF OF OUR HIGH MILEAGE CHEVY. NOW WE SIMPLIFIED THINGS, CLEANED IT UP, AND MADE IT LOOK BETTER, BUT WE ALSO LOST A FEW POUNDS IN THE PROCESS. AND WE HAD A CHANCE TO REPLACE OUR MORTALLY WOUNDED HOOD.

(KEVIN)>> AND FOR MY MONEY, THE WAY WE FIX THIS HOOD IS THE EASIEST BODY WORK I'VE EVER DONE THANKS TO

CLASSIC PARTS OF AMERICA. THIS BOLT ON REPLACEMENT COWL INDUCTION HOOD NOT ONLY FITS PRETTY DARN GOOD BUT IT REALLY UPDATES THE LOOK OF THIS TRUCK. IT FITS RIGHT IN WITH THIS CUSTOM SPORT TRUCK THEME THAT WE'RE WORKING ON, SAVED ME SOME BODY WORK, AND LOOKS KILLER.

(RYAN)>> ALRIGHT, NOW WITH THE BUMPER GONE AND REPLACED WITH THIS ROLL PAN, AND WITH THIS GIANT EMBLEM GONE, WELL IT'S JUST A CLEANER BACK END OF THE TRUCK. NOW YOU CAN SEE BEHIND THE EMBLEM, WELL IT WAS TRAPPING MOISTURE, CAUSING CORROSION, AND ALLOWING THE PAINT TO KINDA FLAKE OFF. NOW I'M GLAD WE CAUGHT THIS NOW AND NOT WHEN IT WAS TOO LATE AND THIS HAD RUSTED THROUGH.

THIS IS SOMETHING WE CAN SAVE.

(KEVIN)>> SO WITH THE DIRECTION FOR STYLING ON THIS PICK UP TRUCK CLEARLY DEFINED, IT BEGS THE QUESTION WHAT'S NEXT?

WELL IT'S OBVIOUS WHAT'S NEXT. WITH THE IMPACT STRIP GONE OFF THIS BUMPER WE CAN SEE THE CHROME'S WORN OUT, IT'S DENTED, AND THESE HOLES LOOK UGLY. THE MARKER LIGHTS AND HEADLIGHTS ARE WORN OUT, AND THE GRILL, WELL IT'S BEAT UP. AND TYPICAL OF THIS VINTAGE TRUCK, THE CHROME IS DELAMINATING. AND WITHOUT A WHOLE LOT OF WORK THIS GRILL'S GONNA BE DIFFICULT TO PAINT. SO WHAT WE'RE GONNA DO IS CLEAN UP THE NOSE OF THIS THING, THROW A NEW GRILL IN, AND ELIMINATE THIS TURBOCHARGED PAPER CUT FROM EVER HAPPENING AGAIN. THAT'S COMING UP ON TRUCK TECH.

(RYAN)>> NOW WE JUST GOT IN A FEW THINGS FROM SUMMIT RACING, WITH THIS 383 SHORT BLOCK BEING ONE OF THEM. NOW THIS THING STARTED LIFE AS A FIVE POINT SEVEN LITER 350. BUT AFTER SOME MACHINE WORK, A FEW BLOCK MODIFICATIONS, AND A STROKER CRANKSHAFT ALONG WITH NEW CONNECTION RODS AND PISTONS, WELL WE'RE SITTING AT ABOUT 383 CUBIC INCHES. IT ALSO INCLUDES NEW FREEZE PLUGS, A ONE PIECE REAR MAIN SEAL, AND AN EXTERNALLY BALANCED FLEX PLATE. SO IF YOU'VE GOT A WORN OUT 350 OR YOU JUST WANT TO BUMP UP THE POWER AND TORQUE NUMBERS, WELL CHECK OUT ONE OF THESE 383 SHORT BLOCKS. IT MIGHT BE WORTH THE INVESTMENT.

(KEVIN)>> WE ALSO PICKED UP ANOTHER COUPLE OF PRODUCTS, INCLUDING THIS ADJUSTABLE LEVELING SYSTEM CALLED LIFT MACHINE FROM PRO RIDE. NOW A LEVELING SYSTEM IS A GREAT IDEA FOR A LATE MODEL

TRUCK, ESPECIALLY WHEN YOU CONSIDER THAT IT CAN CORRECT THE STINK BUG STANCE, IT CAN COMPENSATE FOR A LARGER WHEEL AND TIRE COMBINATION, AND GET YOUR NIGHT VISION BACK IN BY GETTING YOUR HEADLIGHTS BACK INTO ALIGNMENT. SO IT'S A SAFETY FEATURE AS WELL. IT ALSO MAKES YOUR TRUCK LOOK A LITTLE BIT MORE AGGRESSIVE. WHAT MAKES THIS A REALLY GOOD IDEA IS THE FACT THAT IT'S ADJUSTABLE ON THE VEHICLE WITHOUT DISASSEMBLY. ALL YOU DO IS SET THE VEHICLE BACK UP ON JACK STANDS, UNLOAD THE SUSPENSION, AND YOU CAN ADJUST WITH SIMPLE HAND TOOLS. THAT'S A PRETTY GOOD IDEA. GOOD ENOUGH IDEA TO GET THE SEMA BEST NEW PRODUCT AWARD. NOW ONE OF THE EASIEST WAYS TO IMPROVE THE PERFORMANCE AND THE LOOKS UNDER THE HOOD OF YOUR LATE MODEL VEHICLE IS WITH A HIGH FLOW PERFORMANCE INDUCTION SYSTEM, LIKE THIS BLACKHAWK SYSTEM FROM K&N. THIS ONE'S MADE FOR A SIX POINT FOUR LITER TURBO DIESEL FROM FORD, BUT THEY ALL COME WITH A STEEL ISOLATOR THAT'S POWDER COATED, ALL THE HARDWARE YOU NEED TO INSTALL, CONNECTIONS HARNESSES DEPENDING ON YOUR VEHICLE, A POWDER COATED INLET, GASKETS, AND OF COURSE A WASHABLE, REUSABLE, LIFETIME FILTER. A QUICK SEARCH ONLINE WILL TELL YOU THAT K&N MAKES A BLACKHAWK PERFORMANCE AIR INDUCTION SYSTEM FOR JUST ABOUT EVERY VEHICLE ON THE ROAD. THANK YOU GUYS FOR WATCHING TRUCK TECH,

WE'LL SEE YOU NEXT TIME.