Making a Chevy 1500 Workhorse With 260,000 Miles Safe For The Road

(ANNOUNCER)>> TODAY WE'RE STARTING A NEW PROJECT. WE'RE MAKING OVER A '93 SILVERADO INTO AN AWESOME STREET TRUCK. BUT WITH MORE THAN A QUARTER MILLION MILES ON THIS TRUCK'S CLOCK, THERE'S A LOT OF WORK TO DO. IT'S ALL TODAY HERE ON TRUCK TECH.

(RYAN)>> HEY GUYS, WELCOME TO TRUCK TECH. WELL TODAY WE'RE GETTING STARTED ON A BRAND NEW PROJECT THAT WE PICKED UP FOR CHEAP. THIS IS A REGULAR CAB SHORT BOX '93 CHEVY WITH A 350 UNDER THE HOOD, AND OVER A QUARTER OF A

MILLION MILES ON IT.

(KEVIN)>> NOW NORMALLY WE KIND OF GIVE YOU GUYS A TOUR AROUND A VEHICLE WHEN WE KICK OFF A PROJECT. ISOLATE SOME OF THE PROBLEM AREAS AND PLAN OUT SOME COOL MODIFICATIONS, BUT BEFORE WE MODIFY ANYTHING ON THIS TURD WE'RE GONNA MAKE SURE THAT IT'S ROAD WORTHY,

RELIABLE, AND SAFE. OKAY NOW YOU'VE GOT KIND OF A GAME OF NAME

YOUR FLUIDS HERE. OBVIOUSLY ENGINE OIL HERE AND THAT, WELL IT'S TRANSMISSION FLUID. THERE'S SEVERAL OF THE MAJOR COMPONENTS THAT ARE LEAKING.

SO WE'RE GONNA ADDRESS THEM ONE BY ONE, WALK YOU THROUGH IT. SO WE'LL SYSTEMATICALLY ATTACK THE LEAKS AND START AT PROBABLY THE MOST OBVIOUS LEAK AND THE EASIEST ONE TO GET TO, WHICH IS THE REAR DIFFERENTIAL SEAL. OKAY SO THE FIRST THING YOU SEE HERE IS THAT SOME KIND OF FLUID HAS BEEN SEEPING AROUND THE WHEEL STUDS. PULL THE DRUM OFF, TAKE A QUICK LOOK. THE SURFACE ARE IS REALLY NICE. THERE'S NO GROOVES IN IT AND THERE'S PLENTY OF MATERIAL LEFT ON THE DRUM ITSELF. THE PAD'S IN GOOD SHAPE, SO THE BRAKES ARE BASICALLY FUNCTIONAL. SOMETHING SEEPING OUT, AND IF YOU LOOK RIGHT UP IN

HERE IT'S AN AXLE SEAL.

(RYAN)>> ALRIGHT, WHILE WE LET THE GEAR OIL DRAIN OUT OF THE DIFFERENTIAL, I WENT AHEAD AND PULL THE DRUM OFF THE DRIVER'S SIDE. THE SIDE KEVIN PULLED OFF LOOKED TO BE IN GOOD SHAPE AND THE SHOES DID AS WELL. THIS SIDE, NOT SO MUCH. IT LOOKS LIKE THE SHOES WERE WORN SO BAD THAT THE RIVETS HOLDING THE FRICTION MATERIAL IN PLACE ACTUALLY WORE INTO THE DRUM SURFACE. AND IT LOOKS LIKE THE GROOVES ARE TOO DEEP TO BE MACHINED OUT. SO THESE DRUMS ARE GONNA HAVE TO BE REPLACED. THE SHOES, WELL THEY NEED TO BE REPLACED AS WELL, BUT IT'S FOR A COUPLE OF REASONS. NOT JUST BECAUSE THEY HAVE A WEIRD WEAR PATTERN BECAUSE OF THE GROOVES IN THE DRUM, BUT BECAUSE IT LOOKS LIKE WE'VE GOT SOME GEAR OIL LEAKING ON HERE FROM A BAD AXLE SEAL, AND LOOKS LIKE MAYBE SOME BRAKE FLUID FROM A BAD WHEEL CYLINDER, LETS CHECK IT OUT. AND UPON CLOSER INSPECTION WE DEFINITELY HAVE SOME LEAKING SEALS IN THE WHEEL CYLINDER. AND THIS FUZZY STUFF YOU SEE ON TOP IS THE SHOE MATERIAL MIXING WITH THE GEAR OIL AND THE BRAKE FLUID. WE NEED TO GET RID OF IT. NOBODY WANTS THAT IN THEIR LUNGS. SO A QUICK WASH DOWN WITH BRAKE CLEAN GETS IT DONE. LET THAT DRY AND WE CAN PULL THE AXLE SHAFT OUT.

(KEVIN)>> PULLING THE AXLES IS PRETTY SIMPLE. IT STARTS WITH THE DIFFERENTIAL CENTER PIN

RETAINING BOLT. IT COMES OUT AND THEN THE CENTER PIN TYPICALLY JUST FALLS RIGHT OUT IN YOUR HAND. FROM THIS POINT THE SPIDER GEARS WALK OUT QUITE EASILY AND THEN A SIMPLE PUSH OF THE AXLE SHAFT INWARD RELEASES THE CCLIP, WHICH YOU CAN RETRIEVE WITH A MAGNET, PRETTY SIMPLE. THEN THE AXLE SHAFTS CAN EASILY BE EXTRACTED FROM THE AXLE HOUSING WITHOUT EFFECTING THE REST OF THE CARRIER.

(RYAN)>> NOW THEY DO MAKE SPECIAL BRAKE DRUM PLIERS AND TOOLS JUST FOR THIS JOB, BUT YOU CAN TYPICALLY GET BY WITH JUST SOME COMMON HAND TOOLS THAT YOU PROBABLY ALREADY OWN. IF YOU'RE NOT TOO FAMILIAR WITH WORKING ON DRUM BRAKES, WELL JUST LEAVE THE OTHER SIDE COMPLETELY ASSEMBLED.

THAT WAY YOU HAVE A REFERENCE. THESE WHEEL CYLINDERS, WELL THEY ARE REBUILDABLE, BUT IT'S USUALLY NOT COST OR TIME EFFECTIVE TO DO SO. THAT IS UNLESS YOU'VE GOT SOME RARE VEHICLE WHERE A REBUILT ONE IS NOT AVAILABLE. I'VE STILL GOT A BUNCH OF NASTY IN THERE. ALRIGHT NOW IT'S GOOD IDEA TO LOOSEN UP THE BRAKE LINE CONNECTION TO THE WHEEL CYLINDER BEFORE YOU UNBOLT IT FROM THE BACKING PLATE SO IT DOESN'T TRY TO SPIN ON YOU. WE ALSO PLUGGED THE END OF THE BRAKE LINE TO MAKE SURE ALL THE FLUID DIDN'T DRAIN OUT OF THE LINE. IT WOULD JUST MAKE BLEEDING THE BRAKES TAKE THAT MUCH LONGER. NOW A LITTLE BIT OF WATER NEUTRALIZES THE BRAKE FLUID AND A LITTLE BIT OF BRAKE CLEAN WASHES EVERYTHING DOWN AND DRIES QUICK SO WE HAVE A CLEAN, DRY SURFACE TO WORK WITH. NOW THE NEW WHEEL CYLINDER OBVIOUSLY FITS RIGHT IN PLACE AND GETS RETAINED BY TWO BOLTS. TIGHTEN THEM DOWN, THEN ATTACH YOUR BRAKE LINE. NOW REASSEMBLY THE SHOES IS SOMEWHAT STRAIGHT FORWARD BUT THESE LITTLE COIL SPRINGS THAT KEEP THE SHOES PINNED DOWN TO THE BACKING PLATE CAN BE A PAIN IN THE NECK, AND HAVE GOT TO BE COMPRESSED A GOOD LITTLE BIT AND THEN ROTATED 90 DEGREES UNTIL THE

RETAINER CLIP SEATS. I GUESS THAT'LL HOLD IT IN POSITION. THEN YOU JUST REPEAT THE PROCESS ON THE OTHER BRAKE SHOE, AND THEN WE JUST COMPLETED THE INSTALLATION WITH ALL THE SPRINGS AND SMALL PARTS THAT CAME IN OUR HARDWARE KIT. AGAIN, USING THE PASSENGER SIDE DRUM AS A REFERENCE. NOW THE AXLE SEAL WAS LEAKING. SO WE USED OUR SEAL PULLER TO REMOVE IT, AND IT WAS PRETTY HAPPY WHERE IT WAS. YOU CAN ALSO USE A PRY BAR OR EVEN A SCREW DRIVER IF YOU HAVE TO TO REMOVE THESE THINGS. IT JUST TAKES A LITTLE BIT OF WORK. THERE WE GO, OH, YUM! AND BE PREPARED TO LOSE A LITTLE BIT OF GEAR OIL IN THE PROCESS. AND IF I WAS A LITTLE BIT SMARTER I WOULD HAVE REPLACED THE AXLE SEAL FIRST BEFORE I DID THE BRAKE SHOES. BUT OH WELL, NO HARM, NO FOUL. NOW TAPPING IN THE SEAL, YOU JUST WANT TO BE CAREFUL AND

NOT DAMAGE THE SEAL IN THE PROCESS. WE'RE USING A LITTLE PLASTIC FACE HAMMER. AND A LITTLE BIT OF GEAR OIL ON THE SEAL WILL PREVENT DAMAGE DURING REASSEMBLY. JUST MAKE SURE YOU DON'T CATCH THE SHARP SPLINES OF THE END OF THE AXLE SHAFT ON THE SEAL CAUSING DAMAGE.

(KEVIN)>> WITH THE AXLE SHAFT PUSHED A LITTLE FURTHER THAN ITS NORMAL SEATED POSITION. IT EASILY EXPOSES THE GROOVES FOR THE CCLIPS, WHICH CAN BE INSERTED AGAIN WITH A MAGNET AND THE AXLE'S PULLED BACK INTO PLACE READY FOR THE SPIDER GEARS. NOW THIS CAN BE KIND OF A TRICK AND A TONGUE TWISTER. YOU'VE GOT TO TIME THEM TO WHERE THEY'RE PARALLEL AND LINE UP WITH THE BORE FOR THE CENTER SHAFT. A COUPLE OF STABS USUALLY GETS IT RIGHT AND THEN YOU JUST INSERT THE RETAINING BOLT, SNUG IT UP, AND YOU'RE ROCKING. WITH THE DIFF COVER SEALED UP YOU'VE GOT A COUPLE OF CHOICES ON HOW TO REFILL IT WITH GEAR OIL. WE CHOSE TO LET COMPRESSED AIR DO THE WORK RATHER THAN THE FORE ARM SQUEEZE OF THE QUART JUGS INTO THE DIFF ITSELF. THE MOTIVE PRODUCTS POWER FILL MAKES IT EASY.

(KEVIN)>> HEY WELCOME BACK. NOW THAT WE'VE GOT THE REAR AXLE REFURBISHED AND NEW BRAKES ON, WE THREW A COAT OF PAINT ON THE RAW CASTING DRUMS JUST TO KEEP THE RUST OFF. AND SINCE THERE'S NO SHORTAGE OF ISSUES AND PROBLEMS ON THIS TRUCK, LETS MOVE ON TO THE NEXT ONE.

(RYAN)>> ALRIGHT, NOW LIKE KEVIN SAID, THIS TRUCK HAS

NO SHORTAGE OF ISSUES. AND UP FRONT WE'VE GOT PLAY IN THE STEERING AND EITHER THE BALL JOINTS OR THE WHEEL BEARINGS. PROBABLY JUST A WHEEL BEARING ADJUSTMENT. BUT I LOOK THROUGH THE WHEEL, LOOKS LIKE WE MIGHT HAVE SOME BRAKE ISSUES AS WELL. NOW THIS ROTOR'S GOT MORE GROOVES IN IT THAN OUR CAMERA GUY ROB'S FAVORITE BEE GEES RECORD. AND ON THE OUTER LIP, WELL IT'S PRETTY WORN THERE TOO. MEANING THIS ROTOR'S PROBABLY WELL PAST ITS MINIMUM THICKNESS SPECIFICATIONS. NOW THE PADS LOOK LIKE THEY'RE ABOUT HALF LIFE LEFT BUT THEY'RE PROBABLY WORN TO MATCH THE GROOVES IN THE ROTOR. SO WE'RE GONNA BE REPLACING BOTH. PLUS IT'LL GIVE US A CHANCE TO ADJUST THESE WHEEL BEARINGS. ALRIGHT, NOW THIS BREAK PAD IS OBVIOUSLY WEARING

TO MATCH THE ROTOR. THE INSIDE EDGE AND THE OUTSIDE EDGE ARE WEARING ONTO THE LIP AS THE PAD EATS INTO THE FACE OF THE ROTOR. NOW THE FACE OF THE PAD IS GROOVED JUST LIKE THE ROTOR IS. THIS ONE BRAKE PAD IS NOT STAYING ALIVE. NOW IT'S KIND OF HARD TO SEE BUT THE MINIMUM THICKNESS IS CAST INTO THE ROTOR. SO WE CAN MEASURE THE FACE OF THE ROTOR AND DETERMINE IF IT CAN TURNED OR MACHINED. OR IF IT'S SCRAP. NOW MINIMUM SPEC IS 30.86. IN OUR CASE WE'RE OBVIOUSLY WELL BELOW THAT, AND THAT'S BEFORE REMOVING ANY MATERIAL FROM THE MACHINING PROCESS. SO THESE ARE SCRAP AND WE NEED NEW ROTORS. NOW BEFORE WE INSTALL OUR NEW ROTORS, WE'RE GONNA BE INSTALLING SOME NEW WHEEL BEARINGS THAT WE PICKED

UP FROM LMC TRUCK. AND THEY DO MAKE A BEARING PACKER TOOL THAT MAKES THIS JOB A LITTLE BIT QUICKER.

BUT I LIKE DOING IT BY HAND AND IT FRANKLY DOESN'T TAKE THAT LONG. WE INSTALL OUR FRESHLY PACKED BEARINGS INTO THE ROTOR, FOLLOWED BY THE SPINDLE SEAL, AND IT JUST GETS LIGHTLY TAPPED INTO PLACE.

WHEN INSTALLING IT ON THE SPINDLE, MAKE SURE YOU'RE

CAREFUL NOT TO TEAR THE EDGE OF THE SPINDLE SEAL ON THE THREADS OF THE END OF THE SPINDLE. NOW TO SET THE BEARING PRELOAD I LIKE TO SPIN THE ROTOR WHILE TIGHTENING IT DOWN.

ONCE YOU'RE HAPPY WITH THE BEARING PRELOAD, BACK OFF THE CASTELLATED NUT UNTIL THE COTTER KEY LINES UP. STAB IT, BEND OVER ONE LEG, AND ADD THE DUST CAP.

ALRIGHT, WITH OUR WHEEL BEARINGS ALL ADJUSTED, WE CAN TOP OFF OUR NEW DURALAST ROTORS WITH SOME DURALAST BRAKE PADS.

(KEVIN)>> OKAY, SO THE STEERING LINKAGE ASSEMBLY LOOKS ABOUT AS BAD AS IT IS. START OVER HERE. OUTER TIE ROD END WORN OUT, INNER TIE ROD END WORN OUT, SAME ON THE OTHER SIDE, SO OBVIOUSLY THAT STUFF HAS TO BE REPLACED. BUT LOOK A LITTLE DEEPER. THE PITMAN ARM, WELL IT DOESN'T FEEL LIKE IT'S SLOPPY.

THE IDLER, SAME THING, DOESN'T FEEL LIKE IT'S SLOPPY. HOWEVER 260,000 MILES, CHANCES ARE BY THE LOOKS OF THIS STUFF IT HAS NOT BEEN REPLACED. AND ONE THING I LEARNED IN COLLISION REPAIR IS THAT YOU CANNOT GET AN ACCURATE WHEEL ALIGNMENT IF YOUR PITMAN ARM AND YOUR IDLER ARE SLOPPY. IF THEY HAVE EVEN A LITTLE BIT OF PLAY IN THEM IT NEEDS TO BE REPLACED, AND YOU OWE IT TO YOURSELF AND YOUR NEW SET OF TIRES TO DO THAT. SO THAT'S WHAT WE'RE GONNA DO TODAY.

NOW CAKED UP SCHMUTZ COVERING THE JOINTS ACTUALLY HELPS WITH TEAR DOWN BECAUSE IT STOPS THINGS FROM RUSTING.

SO THIS ACTUALLY CAME APART PRETTY EASILY. YOUR GOAL HERE IS TO MOCK UP THE TIE ROD TO APPROXIMATELY THE SAME LENGTH AS THE ORIGINAL. WE'RE USING A NEW ADJUSTMENT SLEEVE JUST BECAUSE THEY'RE INEXPENSIVE AND IT MAKES IT EASIER. EXPOSING THE THREADS HELPS YOU DIAL IN THE LENGTH AND THIS IS PRETTY MUCH SELF EXPLANATORY. BUT WILL HELP YOU IN ALIGNING YOUR TRUCK ONCE IT'S ON THE GROUND. THAT IS PRETTY CLOSE. YOU MAY NEED TO USE A LITTLE PERSUASION TO GET THE IDLER AND THE PITMAN ARM OUT OF THE MAIN CENTER LINK, BUT IT ALSO SERVES AS A LITTLE BIT OF THERAPY WHOOPING UP ON IT. NOW AFTER A BATH IN THE PARTS WASHERS, THE BLAST CABINET REALLY CLEANS UP THE CENTER LINK AND ALLOWS FOR A COAT OF PAINT JUST TO MAKE IT LOOK GOOD, HELP A LITTLE BIT WITH CORROSION. FROM THERE YOUR IDLER AND YOUR PITMAN ARM JUST GET BOLTED INTO PLACE, AND THE REST OF THE ASSEMBLY MOCKED UP, READY FOR REINSTALLATION.

(KEVIN)>> HEY WELCOME BACK. THE NEW STEERING LINKAGE IS BACK UP IN PLACE AND ADJUSTED TO JUST ABOUT EXACTLY THE SAME LENGTH AS IT WAS WHEN WE DISASSEMBLED IT FROM THE VEHICLE.

SO WE SHOULD BE PRETTY GOOD FOR OUR TOW AND GO ONCE THE VEHICLE'S ON ITS OWN WEIGHT. TAKE A CLOSER LOOK UP HERE AT SOMETHING ELSE WE REPLACED. ANOTHER THING THAT WAS CAUSING SLOPPY STEERING AND THAT WONDERING TRUCK SYNDROME WAS THIS STEERING SHAFT RIGHT HERE IN RAG JOINT. IT WAS COMPLETELY WORN OUT. SO WE CALLED UP LMC AND HAD THEM SEND US ONE OF THEIR REPLACEMENTS FOR THIS TRUCK. THAT SHOULD JUST ABOUT TAKE CARE OF THE STEERING. NOW YOU MAY HAVE NOTICED ONE THING WE'RE NOT REPLACING IS THE STEERING BOX ITSELF. SINCE IT WASN'T LEAKING AND IT WASN'T SLOPPY IT STAYS.

(RYAN)>> ALRIGHT, NOW EVERY TIME WE MOVE THIS TRUCK AROUND THE SHOP AFTER ITS BEEN SITTING FOR ANYTHING MORE THAN JUST A FEW MINUTES, AND IT LEAVES A LITTLE RED SPOT OF TRANSMISSION FLUID. AND AT FIRST WE'RE THINKING GREAT, THIS IS GONNA BE A HASSLE AND IT'S GONNA BE MESSY. BUT IT TURNS OUT WE MAY BE GETTING LUCKY. YOU CAN SEE IT'S DROPPING OUT OF THE TRANSMISSION TAIL HOUSING BUT I THINK IT'S COMING FROM THIS SPEED SENSOR HERE. AND IF THAT'S THE CASE, IT SHOULD BE A PRETTY CHEAP AND EASY FIX. THE FIRST THING WE NEED TO DO IS DISCONNECT THE ELECTRICAL PIG TAIL AND THEN REMOVE THE RETAINING BOLT

THAT KEEPS THE SPEED SENSOR LOCKED IN PLACE. NOW WE DO HAVE A GOOD BIT OIL ALL OVER THE TAIL HOUSING, BUT IT LOOKS LIKE IT'S PROBABLY ALL COMING FROM THIS LEAKY SPEED SENSOR ORING. IT'S NOT THE EASIEST THING TO REMOVE. IT'S BEEN THERE QUITE A WHILE AND IT'S PRETTY COMFORTABLE WHERE IT IS. COME ON BABY! AND MAKE SURE THAT YOU HAVE A CATCH PAN READY CAUSE YOU

ARE GONNA LOSE A LITTLE BIT OF ATF. LOOKS LIKE WE JUST NEED A NEW ORING. NOW AFTER CLEANING OFF OUR SPEED SENSOR, WE COULD EASILY SEE THE HARDENED ORING THAT NEEDED TO BE REPLACED. AN OLD POCKET SCREW DRIVER, DUG IT OUT OF THE CHANNEL IT'S LIVING IN, SO IT CAN BE REPLACED WITH NEW ONE THAT WE PICKED UP FROM THE PARTS STORE FOR JUST

A COUPLE OF BUCKS.

JUST MAKE SURE YOU WIPE OFF THE SPEED SENSOR BEFORE REINSTALLATION. YOU DON'T WANT TO GET ANY OF THAT NASTY GUNK INSIDE OF YOUR TRANSMISSION. A LITTLE BIT OF THE CLEAN ATF THAT'S COMING OUT OF

THIS THING WILL LUBRICATE THE ORING SEAL SO IT SLIDES INTO PLACE A LITTLE BIT MORE EASILY. ALTHOUGH IT PROBABLY WILL TAKE A COUPLE OF TAPS FROM THE LITTLE PLASTIC HAMMER TO MAKE IT HAPPEN. JUST DON'T GET CARRIED AWAY.

THEN SIMPLY REINSTALL THE BOLT.

ATTACH YOUR ELECTRICAL HARNESS, CLEAN OFF THE AREA, AND TEST FOR LEAKS.

SOMETIMES REPAIRS DON'T GET CHEAPER OR EASIER THAN THAT.

(RYAN)>> HEY GUYS, WELCOME BACK TO THE SHOP.

WELL WE'VE DONE A BUNCH OF CHASSIS MAINTENANCE ON THIS OLD TRUCK BUT NOW WE WANT TO FOCUS OUR ATTENTION ON SOME OF THE UNDER HOOD STUFF. LIKE WE'VE TOLD YOU, THIS THING'S GOT OVER 260,000 MILES ON IT. SO IT'S SAFE TO ASSUME THAT ANYTHING THAT'S GONNA WEAR

OUT PROBABLY IS WORN OUT. SO WE'RE GONNA DO SOME FRESHENING UP.

TO DO THAT WE PICKED UP A NEW SERPENTINE BELT AND TENSIONER, A NEW OIL FILTER, AIR FILTER, SOME FRESH ETHREE SPARK PLUGS, ACCEL CAP AND ROTOR AND PLUG WIRE FROM SUMMIT RACING, AND WE'RE GONNA REPLACE THIS TINY LITTLE BABY BATTERY THAT'S ONLY GOT 525 COLD CRANKING AMPS WITH THIS DURALAST BATTERY WITH A LITTLE BIT MORE VEHICLE APPROPRIATE 700 COLD CRANKING AMPS. NOW THE FIRST THING WE'RE GONNA DO IS REMOVE THE SPARK PLUGS. AND YOU CAN TAKE A LOOK AT THE OLD SPARK PLUGS AND IT'LL GIVE YOU AN IDEA OF THE CONDITION OF THAT CYLINDER.

AND HONESTLY OURS LOOK LIKE IT WAS BURNING A LITTLE BIT OF OIL, BUT YOU'D EXPECT THAT FROM A TRUCK WITH THIS KIND OF MILEAGE ON IT. OUR MATCO SPARK PLUG SWIVEL SOCKET MAKES INSTALLATION EASY. ALRIGHT NOW BEFORE YOU TAKE ALL YOUR OLD PLUG WIRES AND TOSS THEM IN THE TRASH, DO YOURSELF A FAVOR AND FIND THE LONGEST ONE, COIL IT UP, AND PUT IT IN THE GLOVE BOX OR THE CONSOLE. THAT WAY IN CASE ANY OF THE NEW PLUG WIRES GET BURNED ON THE EXHAUST MANIFOLD OR SOMETHING, YOU'LL HAVE A

SPARE THAT'LL GET YOU HOME. NOW WHEN REPLACING THE DISTRIBUTOR CAP OR REPLACING PLUG WIRES, IT'S ALWAYS A GOOD IDEA TO MARK THE LOCATION OF THE PLUG WIRES AND WHICH CYLINDER THEY GO TOO BEFORE YOU DISASSEMBLE. YOU'RE NOT TOO FAMILIAR WITH THE ENGINE, YOU NEVER KNOW, THE PREVIOUS OWNER MAY INSTALLED THE DISTRIBUTOR BACKWARDS OR SOMETHING CRAZY LIKE THAT. AND ON GM DISTRIBUTORS OF THIS YEAR RANGE WELL THERE'S TWO ELECTRICAL CONNECTORS AS WELL. ADD PLUG WIRES! AND TO MAKE SURE THE NEW PLUG WIRES DON'T FUSE THEMSELVES TO THE SPARK PLUG INSULATORS, I'M GONNA ADDED A LITTLE BIT OF DIELECTRIC GREASE. THAT'LL MAKE SURE THEY COME ON AND OFF WITHOUT TEARING. NOW AT FIRST GLANCE THIS DISTRIBUTOR CAP SEEMS TO BE IN DECENT SHAPE, IT'S NOT THAT OLD, AND IT'S BEEN REPLACED AT SOME TIME. BUT UPON FURTHER INSPECTION IT'S CLEAR WE'VE HAD SOME MOISTURE DOWN IN HERE AND THERE'S CORROSION ON ALL OF THE TERMINALS. NOT GOOD FOR SPARK ENERGY.

(KEVIN)>> NOW THE SERPENTINE BELT IS JUST STARTING TO SHOW SIGNS OF WEAR.

SO IN THE SPIRIT OF BASIC MAINTENANCE WE'RE GONNA REPLACE IT. NOW THE PULLEY FOR THE TENSIONER, IT'S A LITTLE SLOPPY. SO WE'RE JUST GONNA GO AHEAD AND REPLACE THE WHOLE TENSIONER SINCE IT WAS AVAILABLE AS A UNIT. BUT JUST LIKE WHAT RYAN SAID, A SPARE'S NOT A BAD IDEAL, ESPECIALLY WITH A SERPENTINE BELT CAUSE YOU'VE

GOT ONE SHOT IF IT BREAKS. SO THIS IS GOING BEHIND THE SEAT OF THE TRUCK WITH THAT PLUG WIRE.

IF YOU'VE GOT AN FSERIES PICK UP WITH A SIX TWO GAS BURNER AND YOU WANT TO DRESS UP UNDER HOOD WITHOUT GOING AFTERMARKET, WELL NOW YOU CAN. THESE STYLISH COVERS FIT ALL SIX POINT TWO F-150 AND SUPER DUTY TRUCKS, INCLUDING RAPTOR. THEY'RE MADE OF POWDER COATED ALUMINUM AND COME IN SEVERAL DIFFERENT COLORS INCLUDING SILVER, BLUE, AND BLACK, AND FEATURE THE TIME HONORED AND MUCH RESPECTED POWERED BY FORD SCRIPT ON TOP. THEY'RE SOLD IN PAIRS AND SHIPPED JUST LIKE YOU SEE THEM, INCLUDING FASTENERS, CAM POSITION SENSOR GROMMETS, AND BRAND NEW GASKETS. THEY'RE AVAILABLE WHEREVER FORD RACING PROJECTS ARE SOLD.

(RYAN)>> HEY GUYS, IF YOU'VE GOT A DANA 60 FRONT AXLE UNDERNEATH YOUR TRUCK THAT USES TRADITIONAL JAMB NUTS TO SET THE SPINDLE BEARING PRELOAD AND YOU WANT TO GET RID OF THOSE OUT DATED JAMB NUTS AND GO WITH SOMETHING A LITTLE BIT MORE PERMANENT. WELL YOU NEED TO CHECK OUT THE STAGE EIGHT XLOCK SPINDLE NUT. A NOTCHED WASHER FITS ON TOP OF THE THRUST WASHER, FOLLOWED BY A GROOVED SPINDLE NUT AND A LOCKING RETAINER THAT IS POSITIVELY HELD IN PLACE WITH A SNAP RING GUARANTEEING THAT SPINDLE NUT WILL NEVER BACK OFF. NOW STAGE EIGHT CLAIMS THEY'VE DONE OVER 10 MILLION INSTALLATIONS WITHOUT A SINGLE FAILURE.

SO IF YOU'RE TIRED OF JAMB NUTS CHECK OUT THE XLOCK SPINDLE NUT.

(KEVIN)>> THE COOLER YOUR TRANSMISSION RUNS, THE CLEANER THE FLUID STAYS, AND THE LONGER THE TRANSMISSION LIVES. THAT'S WHY PACIFIC PERFORMANCE ENGINEERING HAS COME OUT WITH THIS HEAVY DUTY DEEP SUMP FINNED ALUMINUM PAN FOR ALLISON TRANSMISSIONS. THEY'RE MADE IN THE USA WITH THE THICK CASTING AND FINS THAT DOUBLE AS A HEAT SYNC. IT COMES WITH A RACEWAY STAINLESS STEEL PLUG THAT'S MAGNETIZED TO KEEP PARTICLES FROM SURFACING AND ARE DRILLED WITH QUARTER INCH AND EIGHTH INCH NPT PORTS, MAKING IT A SNAP FOR AN EXTERNAL TEMPERATURE PROBE. THE DEEP PAN COMES WITH A DEEP FILTER AND FASTENERS. YOU CAN PICK YOURS UP FROM SUMMIT RACING. THANKS FOR WATCHING TRUCK TECH, SEE YOU GUYS SOON.