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Harmonic Balancer Bolt, Chromoly, Black Oxide, 12-Point, Chevy, 4.8, 5.3, 6.0L, LS1, LS6, Each
Earl's Performance Plumbing
Gauge, Fuel Pressure, 0-15 psi, 1 1/2 in., Analog, Mechanical, White Face, Each
Earl's Performance Plumbing
Pro-Lite 350 hose is constructed in the USA from a tough, abrasion-resistant nylon sheathing banded to the textile inner braid thats embedded in the synthetic rubber liner. This gives the hose incredible flexibility, while maintaining the ability to withstand high vacuum and hot oil temperatures. It can withstand a maximum pressure rating of 350 psi and an operating temperature range of -40 to +300 degrees F
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Video Transcript
(ANNOUNCER)>> TODAY ON MUSCLE
CAR, GIMME FUEL, GIMME FIRE, GIMME A WAY TO GET SOME GOGO
JUICE INTO PROJECT BUSINESS TIME'S BIG, BAD, BLOWN HEMI. PLUS, YOU MIGHT NOT WANT TO
GO ANYWHERE NEAR THIS SNAKE. IT MAY BE BIG BUT THAT
DOESN'T MEAN IT CAN'T GET YOU!
(STEVE)>> HEY GUYS, GOOD TO SEE YOU.
WE'RE SLOWLY CHUGGING ALONG ON OUR '74 DART PROJECT, BUSINESS TIME. YOU'VE SEEN US CAGE IT, BACK HALF IT, TUB IT, AND DUMP IN A LATE MODEL BLOWN HEMI. THAT WITH A FEW OTHER SMALL PROJECTS WE'VE DONE ARE SLOWLY TURNING THIS THING INTO QUITE A MENACE.
WITH GREAT POWER COMES GREAT RESPONSIBILITY. THERE'S NOTHING WORSE THAN AN OVERPOWERED CAR THAT'S NOT PROPERLY EQUIPPED. KEEPING THAT IN MIND, TODAY WE'RE GONNA TALK ABOUT A FEW THINGS YOU CAN DO TO HOPEFULLY KEEP YOUR JOY RIDE FROM BECOMING THE WORST DAY OF YOUR LIFE.
(TOMMY)>> ON THAT SUBJECT IT'S ABOUT TIME TO START RUNNING
SOME FUEL UP TO THAT DUDE. NOW THAT ENGINE WASN'T BUILT FOR JUST POWER. IT WAS BUILT FOR RELIABILITY AND CONVENIENCE. IT'S ALSO BEEN DESIGNED TO RUN OFF PUMP GAS, WHICH MAKES LIFE A WHOLE LOT EASIER FOR SOMEONE WHO'S TRYING TO MAKE A CAR LIKE THAT STREETABLE. THE BACK BONE OF OUR FUEL SYSTEM IS GONNA BE THIS, AN
ALL ALUMINUM FUEL CELL THAT WE ORDERED FROM SUMMIT RACING. WITH ALL THE MODIFICATIONS THAT WE MADE TO THE REAR HALF OF THE CAR, A FUEL CELL IS A NECESSITY THAT WE WON'T BE ABLE TO DO WITHOUT. A STOCK STYLE TANK SIMPLY WON'T FIT IN THE CAR ANYMORE. OBVIOUSLY FUEL IS SOMETHING YOU NEED TO TAKE A FEW PRECAUTIONS WITH. OUR TANK HAS A FEW BUILT IN SAFETY FEATURES IN IT, KINDA LIKE A ROLL OVER VENT WITH A CHECK BALL IN IT. NOW THE FITTING HAS KINDA GOT A TAPER IN IT KINDA LIKE A FUNNEL. WELL THIS TENNIS BALL IS GONNA SIMULATE INTO A LITTLE CHECK BALL. NOW WHILE THAT THING'S RIDING AROUND, THE BALL'S JUST KINDA HANGING OUT IN THERE. BUT WHENEVER THE TANK OR CAR GETS FLIPPED UPSIDE DOWN, THE BALL FALLS INTO THE TAPER PLUGGING THE HOLE, KEEPING ANY FLUID FROM ESCAPING. IT'S PRETTY SIMPLE, YET EFFICIENT.
(STEVE)>> WE'VE OPTED FOR THESE MOUNTING STRAPS TO KEEP OUR CONTAINER, WELL, CONTAINED. IT'S IMPORTANT TO MOUNT THIS UP FROM ALL DIRECTIONS TO KEEP IT FROM BECOMING A FUEL FILLED PROJECTILE IN CASE OF AN ACCIDENT. THIS IS THE SENDING UNIT FOR OUR FUEL GAUGE. IT'S IMPORTANT TO MAKE SURE THAT THE OHM RESISTANCE BETWEEN THIS UNIT AND OUR FUEL GAUGE IS THE SAME TO GET AN ACCURATE READING. THERE ARE A FEW POPULAR ITEMS ON THE MARKET. THIS ONE HAPPENS TO READ BETWEEN ZERO AND 90 OHMS. THIS IS HOW IT WORKS. WHEN THE FUEL LEVEL IS LOW, THERE IS A LOW LEVEL OF RESISTANCE IN THE UNIT. WHEN YOU PUT FUEL IN THE TANK, THIS ARM MOVES A POTENTIOMETER IN THE UNIT, WHICH CHANGES THE LEVEL OF RESISTANCE ON THE CENTER. THIS ALSO MOVES THE GAUGE. SO A MISMATCH ON ONE OF THESE IS PRECISELY WHY YOUR BUDDY CARL'S NOVA READS HALF A GAUGE WHEN IT ACTUALLY IS FULL, OR MY WIFE'S '66 VW, YEP, FOR REAL.
UH, OH, OKAY NOW THAT WE'VE GOT THE TANK UP IN HERE, IT SEEMS WE'RE GONNA HAVE A LITTLE BIT OF A DILEMMA, NOTHING MAJOR. WHAT WE'VE DONE IS WE'VE OPTED FOR A LITTLE BIT TANK BECAUSE IT'S GONNA BE A STREET DRIVEN CAR, BUT WE HAD THE SUMP HANGING DOWN IN THE BACK. WE DON'T WANT IT HANGING THIS LOW UNDER THE CHASSIS BECAUSE WE DO NOT WANT IT TO BECOME A CATCH ALL FOR WHATEVER MIGHT BE ON THE ROAD. WE'RE THEREFORE GONNA CUT THE TRUNK FLOOR AND PULL IT UP INTO THE FLOOR, PROBABLY A FEW INCHES TO GET INTO A SAFETY MARGIN.
I DON'T WANT TO CUT THE PANEL FROM THE BOTTOM IF I DON'T HAVE TO BECAUSE I DON'T FEEL LIKE GETTING SHOWERED IN A BUNCH OF METAL SHARDS. I'LL PUNCH OUT THE HOLE WHERE EACH OF MY CORNERS ARE GOING TO BE, AND AS FOR THE TOP SIDE, I'LL REDRAW MY LINES. A BODY SAW MAKES QUICK WORK OF THE METAL, AND AFTER A COUPLE
OF MINUTES WE'LL HAVE A HOLE FOR OUR CELL.
WELL IF THE OLD MEASURE TWICE, CUT ONCE PHILOSOPHY WORKS, WE SHOULD BE IN THE BALLPARK. THAT'S NOT TOO BAD. WHAT WE'LL DO NOW IS WE'LL GET UNDERNEATH THE CAR AND REDO THE STRAPS FOR A DIFFERENT DEPTH BECAUSE OF WHAT WE'VE
DONE UNDERNEATH, AND STRAP IT IN. HOPEFULLY IT'LL STAY.
(TOMMY)>> NOW NORMALLY THESE STRAPS WOULD BE PLENTY GOOD
ENOUGH IF YOU WERE MOUNTING THE FUEL TANK STRAIGHT INTO THE TRUNK FLOOR. BUT WITH OURS, SINCE WE'RE RECESSING IT HALF THROUGH THE FLOOR, WE'RE GONNA HAVE TO BUILD SOME EXTRA SUPPORTS TO MAKE SURE OUR TANK DOESN'T GO ANYWHERE. A FEW MEASUREMENTS WILL GIVE ME THE DIMENSION OF THE PLATE I'M GOING TO MAKE. AND A PIECE OF LEFTOVER EIGHTH INCH STOCK STEEL IS PERFECT TO DRAW IT UP ON.
IAN AND THOSE ROCK CRAWLER GUYS DIMPLE DYE THEIR SKID PLATES ALL THE TIME FOR STRENGTH, AND I'M STARTING TO THINK THEY MAY BE ON TO SOMETHING. I'M GONNA BURN ON A COUPLE OF WINGS THAT STEP THE HEIGHT OF OUR PLATE DOWN JUST A NOTCH AND FUNCTION
AS MOUNTING SUPPORTS.
(STEVE)>> A COUPLE OF "L" BRACKETS BURNED INTO THE FRAME RAIL IS WHAT WE'LL USE AS A FOUNDATION FOR THE WHOLE SETUP, AND THIS IS WHERE EVERYTHING WILL BOLT TOGETHER.
LASTLY, SO WE DON'T HAVE TO CHASE SOME NUTS WITH A WRENCH, I'LL WELD A COUPLE OF NUTS TO THE TOP SIDE OF THE PLATE.
WELL WE'VE GOT OUR MOUNTING PLATE MADE FOR OUR FUEL CELL, WHICH IS ALSO GONNA DO A LOT TO PROTECT THE BOTTOM OF IT. NOW ALL WE'VE GOT TO DO IS GET SOME PLUMBING TO THE BACK OF THIS THING, UP TO THE FRONT, AND GET
THAT HEMI BURNING FIRE.
(ANNOUNCER)>> FUEL LINES, A FORD, AND FASTENER FUN, COMING UP WE GET GAS TO THE HEMI, TRY TO CHASE DOWN A TORINO COBRA, AND THEN FIND OUT WHY ALL BOLTS ARE NOT CREATED EQUAL.
(TOMMY)>> WITH OUT CELL IN PLACE AND BRACED UP ALL NICE AND TIGHT, WE'RE READY TO START DOING SOME PLUMBING FOR OUR FUEL SYSTEM. NOW WE'RE RUNNING A LITTLE MORE POWER THAN JUST YOUR STANDARD RUN OF THE MILL. SO WE'VE GOT TO MAKE SURE THAT OUR FUEL PUMP AND THE WHOLE SYSTEM CAN KEEP UP WITH IT. A GOOD PLACE TO START IS WITH SOMETHING LIKE THAT. NOW THIS AIN'T A LITTLE BABY ROCKET PACK, IT'S A FUEL PUMP. WE CALLED UP OUR BUDDIES DOWN AT SUMMIT RACING AND THEY HELPED US OUT WITH THIS HOLLEY DOMINATOR FUEL PUMP. NOW IF YOU'RE NEEDING TO MOVE A WHOLE LOT OF FUEL,
THIS IS THE ANSWER. THIS THING WILL SUPPORT UP TO 1,800 HORSE. WHAT MAKES THIS DESIGN UNIQUE IS IT'S TWO PUMPS IN ONE. SO JUST FOR NORMAL APPLICATION, JUST RIDING AROUND TOWN, YOU'RE RUNNING OFF ONE SIDE OF THE PUMP.
BUT IF YOU'RE RUNNING A NITROUS SETUP OR A BOOSTED APPLICATION LIKE WE ARE, YOU CAN ACTIVATE THE SECOND SIDE OF THIS PUMP TO HAVE ALL THE FUEL YOU'LL EVER NEED WHENEVER YOU WANT IT. THE BEAUTY BEHIND NOT RUNNING BOTH PUMPS ALL THE TIME IS IT CUTS DOWN ON THE UNNECESSARY CIRCULATION OF FUEL, WHICH CAUSES HEAT AND CAUSES YOU TO LOSE POWER.
(STEVE)>> WHAT WE'VE RUN INTO IS WITH OUR SKINNY FRAME RAILS AND OUR FAT TIRES, WE'VE KINDA LIMITED OUR OPTIONS ON WHERE TO HANG THE FUEL PUMP. WE DECIDED TO HANG IT UP HERE ON THE FRONT OF THE TANK WHERE IT'LL BE OUT OF THE WAY FROM ANY DEBRIS FROM THE ROAD, BE PROTECTED BY THE REAR AXLE, AND AWAY FROM THE HEAT OF THE EXHAUST. HOPEFULLY IT'LL WORK GOOD, I DON'T THINK IT'LL BE A PROBLEM.
WHAT I'VE DONE IS MAKE A COUPLE OF FLAT BRACKETS TO MOUNT TO THE FUEL PUMP, AND THESE BRACKETS WILL MOUNT TO THE STRAPS ON THE FUEL CELL. WE'LL USE A SET OF STUDS TO HOLD THE PUMP IN PLACE. WE'LL JUST TAKE THE PUMP, PLUG IT IN, AND KEEP IT THERE WITH A FEW LOCK NUTS. TO KEEP OUR FUEL PRESSURE UNDER CONTROL, WE'RE GONNA USE THIS HOLLEY BILLET FUEL PRESSURE REGULATOR. WE MOUNTED AN EARL'S GAUGE TO THE FACE OF IT SO WE CAN GET A REAL TIME LOOK AT THE FUEL PRESSURE WHILE THE CARBURETORS ARE RUNNING AND ALSO TO SET THEM. MOST CARBURETORS RUN BETWEEN FIVE AND SEVEN POUNDS OF PRESSURE. JUST AS A NOTE, IF YOU GUYS ARE GONNA RUN FUEL INJECTION
INSTEAD OF CARBURETION, MOST OF THOSE SYSTEMS RUN BETWEEN 25 AND 45 POUNDS. WHAT WE'RE DOING IS USING THE REGULATOR AS A DISTRIBUTION BLOCK.
THIS SETUP IS EASY TO MANAGE AND KEEPS THE REGULATOR AS CLOSE AS POSSIBLE TO THE CARBS, AND YOU CONTROL THE FUEL PRESSURE BEFORE IT GETS TO THEM. WE'LL MOUNT THE REGULATOR ON THE TOP INNER FENDER ON THE PASSENGER SIDE. THIS ANGLE GIVES US GREAT VISIBILITY FOR THE PRESSURE GAUGE AND IT KEEPS THE FUEL LINES UP HIGH IN THE ENGINE COMPARTMENT, AWAY FROM THE ENGINE AND THE EXHAUST. OUR ENTIRE SYSTEM IS GONNA BE PLUMBED WITH THESE BLACK ANODIZED ALUMINUM EARL'S FITTINGS. AS FOR LINES, WE'LL GO WITH SOME EARL'S PRO LITE ULTRA HOSE.
REMEMBER TO USE THE PROPER WRENCHES FOR THE FITTINGS SO YOU DON'T MESS THEM ALL UP.
SINCE THESE BIG, STOUT HOSES DON'T TWIST VERY EASILY, I'LL MARK WHERE I WANT THE THINGS TO BE CLOCKED AND MAKE SURE TO MAINTAIN THE PROPER INDEXING.
ONE LAST THING I WANT TO MENTION GUYS, THE REAL REASON
FOR HAVING A RETURN STYLE FUEL SYSTEM, VAPOR LOCK. VAPOR LOCK IS WHAT HAPPENS WHEN THE HEAT IN THE MOTOR ACTUALLY TURNS THE FUEL IN THE LINE INTO VAPOR. IT BOILS IT. THIS WILL ACTUALLY STOP THE FLOW OF FUEL AND KILL THE ENGINE. GUYS THERE WAS A TIME WHEN VAPOR LOCK REALLY WAS A MAJOR ISSUE. CARS WOULD DIE IN INTERSECTIONS, CAUSE MAJOR TRAFFIC JAMS, AND I CAN'T TELL YOU HOW MANY WIVES TALES I'VE HEARD WHERE GUYS WOULD TAKE THEIR MOM'S WOODEN CLOTHS
PINS, CLAMP THEM ONTO THE FUEL LINES, WRAP THEIR FUEL LINES IN TIN FOIL, AND EVEN WRAP THEM IN A COIL TO TRY AND COOL THEM DOWN. DID ANY OF THOSE THINGS EVER REALLY WORK, WHO KNOWS?
(ANNOUNCER)>> STICK AROUND AND SEE WHAT THE FAMILY RESEMBLANCE IS BETWEEN YOUR GRANDMA'S GROCERY GETTING TORINO AND THIS BANGED OUT FORD WITH AN ATTITUDE PROBLEM.
(ANNOUNCER)>> TODAY'S FLASHBACK, A 1971 FORD TORINO COBRA.
(TOMMY)>> THE '70'S MAY HAVE BEATEN THE TAR OUT OF THE MUSCLE CAR, BUT THE '71 TORINO COBRA STILL HAD PLENTY OF VENOM LEFT TO MAKE ITS BITE DEADLY. WATCH OUT CAUSE THIS SNAKE IS COILED UP AND READY TO STRIKE.
AS PART OF FORD'S MID SIZE LINE, THE TORINO SERVED DOUBLE DUTY AS BOTH A SENSIBLE FAMILY CAR AND A
RADICAL STREET MACHINE. IT STARTED OFF AS A SPORTY MEMBER OF THE FAIRLANE LINE IN '68, BUT BY '71 THE TORINO HAD TAKEN OVER AND THE FAIRLANE WAS GIVEN THE BOOT. THE NAME COMES FROM ITALY'S VERSION OF DETROIT, WHICH SUITS THE CAR WELL, GREAT STYLING MATCHED WITH RAW AMERICAN POWER UNDER THE HOOD. THE REAL MUSCLE WAS IN THE COBRA, FIRST UNLEASHED IN '69. IT CAME STANDARD WITH A 285 HORSE 351, OR YOU COULD PICK YOUR POISON. THERE WAS THE 429 COBRAJET BANGING OUT 370 HORSEPOWER. BUT TO REALLY SHAKE UP THINGS YOU COULD ORDER A SUPER COBRAJET WITH A RAM AIR SCOOP AND A SHAKER HOOD CAPABLE OF 375 HORSEPOWER.
IT RAN THROUGH THE QUARTER MILE IN 14.5 SECONDS
AT 102 MILES PER HOUR. NOT BAD FOR A TWO TON BEAST.
LIKE ANY SNAKE, YOU CAN TELL IF IT'S DANGEROUS BY ITS MARKINGS. THE WARNING SIGNS WERE THE BLACKED OUT HOOD AND THE TAIL PANEL, NOT TO MENTION A TON OF BADGES ALL AROUND. PLUS IT HAD A UNIQUE GRILL THAT WASN'T SPLIT IN THE MIDDLE LIKE ALL THE OTHER TORINOS. STANDARD FEATURES ALSO INCLUDED HEAVY DUTY SUSPENSION, DUAL EXHAUST, AND A SET OF WIDE OVAL SEVEN INCH WHEELS. THE BASE COBRA WOULD COST YOU AROUND $3,300, BUT THIS ONE TRICKED OUT WITH LOTS OF EXTRAS RAN THE TICKET TO ALMOST $5,000. EXTRAS LIKE THE UNUSUAL RIBBON TACH, WHICH WAS COOL
BUT KINDA HARD TO READ. IT'S ALSO OPTIONED WITH HIGH BACK BUCKET SEATS, AND AUTOMATIC CSIX TRANSMISSION, MAG WHEELS, AND REFLECTIVE LASER STRIPES DOWN BOTH SIDES. A NINE INCH TRACTION LOCK DIFF WITH 3.91 GEARS HELPED SHED SOME SNAKE SKIN. THE COBRA WAS ONE OF BLUE OVAL'S LAST ATTEMPTS AT BIG CARS WITH BIG MUSCLE. TIPPING THE SCALES AT 3,800 POUNDS AND MEASURING 206 INCHES IN LENGTH. THE COBRA WAS REALLY MORE OF AN ANACONDA. THE STYLING FOR '71 WAS PRETTY MUCH THE SAME AS '70, AND FEATURED THE FASTBACK SPORT ROOFS THAT DIDN'T COME ON THE BASE MODELS. ONLY ABOUT 3,000 COBRAS WERE SOLD IN '71, MAKING THIS ONE RARE CAR. THROW IN OPTIONS LIKE THE RAM AIR 429, RED ON RED LOOK, AND THIS IS ONE OF ONLY A HANDFUL EVER BUILT. IT WAS THE LAST YEAR FOR THE SECOND GEN TORINO AND THE COBRA OPTION. IN '72 A BRAND NEW LOOK WAS ON ITS WAY AND POWER, WELL IT WENT OUT THE WINDOW. SO IF YOU SEE THIS COBRA SLITHERING DOWN THE ROAD, THINK TWICE BEFORE GOING NEAR IT. IT AIN'T NO GARDEN SNAKE.
(ANNOUNCER)>> IT'S A FASTENER FREE FOR ALL. LEARN THE RIGHT AND WRONG WAY TO HOLD YOUR RIDE TOGETHER.
(TOMMY)>> TODAY ON OUR DODGE WE'VE BEEN ALL ABOUT THE FUEL SYSTEM, WHICH YOU OBVIOUSLY HAVE TO TAKE CARE OF TO HAVE A SAFE CAR. BUT THERE'S ANOTHER ASPECT OF THAT WHICH WE'D LIKE TO TALK ABOUT THAT OFTEN TIMES GOES UNNOTICED. YOU NEED TO HAVE THE RIGHT BOLT FOR THE RIGHT JOB AT HAND.
JUST BECAUSE THEY'RE THE SAME SIZE DOESN'T MEAN THEY'RE THE SAME STRENGTH. NOW A LOT OF TIMES WHEN PEOPLE WALK INTO A HARDWARE STORE AND
GRAB A HANDFUL OF BOLTS, MOST OF THE TIME THEY'RE JUST GRABBING WHATEVER IS THE CHEAPEST, BUT THAT COULD
BE A RECIPE FOR DISASTER.
A BOLT'S GRADE IS DETERMINED BY HOW STRONG IT IS. WITH METRIC AND STANDARD BOLTS, THEY ALL HAVE THEIR OWN SYSTEM. BUT SINCE WE'RE WORKING ON THIS OLE TIMEY MUSCLE CAR STUFF, WE'RE JUST GONNA STICK WITH THE SAE STUFF TODAY. WHEN MOUNTING SUSPENSION, STEERING, MOTOR, TRANNY, SOMETHING LIKE THAT, YOU WANT TO MAKE SURE TO USE A HARDENED BOLT LIKE A GRADE EIGHT. NOW THESE THINGS ARE HARDER THAN A PEACH SEED. IF YOU'RE WONDERING WHICH ONE YOU'VE GOT JUST LOOK AT THE HEAD OF THE BOLT. IF IT'S GOT THE SIX NOTCHES, THAT'S A GRADE EIGHT. THEY'RE MADE OF CARBON ALLOY STEEL, WHICH IS BOTH QUENCHED AND TEMPERED, AND AT THE SAME TIME THEY'RE STRONG ENOUGH TO
WITHSTAND THE FORCES INVOLVED WITH HOLDING UP THE WEIGHT OF THE VEHICLE EVEN IN COMPETITION. GRADE FIVE BOLTS ARE THE NEXT STEP DOWN. YOU CAN IDENTIFY THEM BY THE THREE SLASHES ON THE TOP. THEY'RE FINE TO USE ON PIECES THAT DON'T HOLD UP A LOT OF WEIGHT OR AREN'T ON MOVING PARTS LIKE SHEET METAL, INTERIOR COMPONENTS, THAT KIND OF STUFF.
AND FINALLY THERE'S GRADE TWO. NOW WE DON'T HAVE ANY OF THOSE TO SHOW YOU CAUSE WE TRY NOT TO USE THEM HERE IN THE SHOP. YOU CAN IDENTIFY THEM BY EITHER A SINGLE OR NO MARKINGS ON THE HEAD. NOW THEY'RE PERFECTLY FINE IF YOU'RE HANGING A PORCH SWING AT YOUR AUNT MIMI'S HOUSE, BUT TRY NOT TO USE THEM ON THE CAR.
YOU CAN GET BOLTS THAT ARE EVEN STRONGER THAN A GRADE EIGHT, LIKE THIS HARMONIC BALANCER BOLT FROM ARP. NOW ARP MANUFACTURES BOLTS THAT ARE A LOT STRONGER THAN ANY STANDARD HARDWARE. YOU'VE SEE HORSEPOWER USE THEIR FASTENERS ON A WHOLE BUNCH OF THINGS, LIKE ENGINE INTERNALS. THAT'S BECAUSE THEIR COMPONENTS ARE BEING PUSHED TO THE LIMITS AND THEY REQUIRE SOMETHING THAT'S BOTH RELIABLE AND DURABLE. THE OTHER HALF OF THE FASTENER EQUATION IS THE NUT, AND THE JOB OF KEEPING IT TIGHT AS IT'S SUPPOSED TO BE. NOW THERE'S SEVERAL DIFFERENT OPTIONS OUT THERE TO DO JUST THAT. THIS IS A NYLON LOCK NUT. WHEN YOU TIGHTEN IT, YOU'RE ACTUALLY CUTTING INTO THE NYLON BAND ON THE INSIDE OF THE NUT THAT WILL KEEP IT FROM LOOSENING UP.
THIS IS AN EXCELLENT OPTION FOR A LOT OF DIFFERENT SITUATIONS, BUT IT'S NOT A GOOD IDEA WHEN IT COMES TO HIGH TEMP ENVIRONMENTS. A SIMILAR DESIGN IS THE STEEL LOCK NUT, WHICH IS PRETTY MUCH THE SAME IDEA AS THE NYLON NUT EXCEPT WHEN YOU TIGHTEN THIS ONE UP YOU'RE DIGGING INTO A STEEL BAND. THIS IS THE ONE YOU WANT FOR THE HOT SPOTS. ANOTHER ONE IS A CASTLE NUT, WHICH YOU SEE A LOT ON SUSPENSION PARTS. THEY'RE DESIGNED TO THREAD ON. THEN USE A COTTER PIN TO SLIP IN BETWEEN HERE AND THROUGH
A HOLE IN THE BOLT. WELL HOW ABOUT A FLANGE NUT. THIS HAS BASICALLY GOT A BUILT IN LOCK WASHER ON THE BOTTOM OF IT, AND THESE LITTLE BLADES DIG INTO YOUR SURFACE METAL TO KEEP IT AT HOME. SPEAKING OF WHICH, WE'VE GOT A COUPLE OF DIFFERENT TYPE OF LOCK WASHERS. THIS IS SPLIT TYPE LOCK WASHER. HOW IT WORKS IS WHEN IT'S COMPRESSED, THIS BLADE AND THIS BLADE DIG INTO THE MATERIAL, KEEPING IT IN PLACE. A STOCK WASHER WORKS KINDA THE SAME WAY EXCEPT FOR IT HAS A FEW MORE BLADES SO TO SPEAK, WHICH GRAPPLE TO THE SURFACE. IF YOU'VE GOT A PLACE TO BRACE IT UP AGAINST, THESE STAGE EIGHT LOCKING FASTENERS WILL HOLD IT DOWN LIKE NOBODY'S BUSINESS. THIS RETAINER AND CLIP GO ON AFTER INSTALLATION AND PREVENT THE BOLT FROM TURNING. THEY AREN'T GONNA COME BACK OFF UNLESS YOU WANT THEM TO. AND OF COURSE ANOTHER WAY TO PREVENT UNWANTED MOVEMENT AS WELL AS LEAKS AND CORROSION, IS WITH A DAB OF LOCTITE. THEY HAVE COMPOUNDS DESIGNED FOR LOW TO HIGH STRENGTHS, HIGH TEMPERATURES, OIL CONTAMINATION, YOU NAME IT, THERE'S SOMETHING FOR EVERY SITUATION. SOMEWHERE IN ALL THIS YOU OUGHT TO BE READY TO JUST ABOUT FASTEN ANYTHING TOGETHER. BUT JUST IN CASE YOU NEED SOMETHING WITH A LITTLE MORE
UMPH TO IT, YOU MIGHT TRY ONE OF THESE. YOU NEVER KNOW WHEN YOU'RE GONNA HAVE TO REDO A BRIDGE OR SOMETHING.
IF YOU HAVE ANY QUESTIONS ABOUT WHAT YOU SAW ON TODAY'S SHOW, GO TO POWERBLOCK TV DOT COM.
Show Full Transcript
(STEVE)>> HEY GUYS, GOOD TO SEE YOU.
WE'RE SLOWLY CHUGGING ALONG ON OUR '74 DART PROJECT, BUSINESS TIME. YOU'VE SEEN US CAGE IT, BACK HALF IT, TUB IT, AND DUMP IN A LATE MODEL BLOWN HEMI. THAT WITH A FEW OTHER SMALL PROJECTS WE'VE DONE ARE SLOWLY TURNING THIS THING INTO QUITE A MENACE.
WITH GREAT POWER COMES GREAT RESPONSIBILITY. THERE'S NOTHING WORSE THAN AN OVERPOWERED CAR THAT'S NOT PROPERLY EQUIPPED. KEEPING THAT IN MIND, TODAY WE'RE GONNA TALK ABOUT A FEW THINGS YOU CAN DO TO HOPEFULLY KEEP YOUR JOY RIDE FROM BECOMING THE WORST DAY OF YOUR LIFE.
(TOMMY)>> ON THAT SUBJECT IT'S ABOUT TIME TO START RUNNING
SOME FUEL UP TO THAT DUDE. NOW THAT ENGINE WASN'T BUILT FOR JUST POWER. IT WAS BUILT FOR RELIABILITY AND CONVENIENCE. IT'S ALSO BEEN DESIGNED TO RUN OFF PUMP GAS, WHICH MAKES LIFE A WHOLE LOT EASIER FOR SOMEONE WHO'S TRYING TO MAKE A CAR LIKE THAT STREETABLE. THE BACK BONE OF OUR FUEL SYSTEM IS GONNA BE THIS, AN
ALL ALUMINUM FUEL CELL THAT WE ORDERED FROM SUMMIT RACING. WITH ALL THE MODIFICATIONS THAT WE MADE TO THE REAR HALF OF THE CAR, A FUEL CELL IS A NECESSITY THAT WE WON'T BE ABLE TO DO WITHOUT. A STOCK STYLE TANK SIMPLY WON'T FIT IN THE CAR ANYMORE. OBVIOUSLY FUEL IS SOMETHING YOU NEED TO TAKE A FEW PRECAUTIONS WITH. OUR TANK HAS A FEW BUILT IN SAFETY FEATURES IN IT, KINDA LIKE A ROLL OVER VENT WITH A CHECK BALL IN IT. NOW THE FITTING HAS KINDA GOT A TAPER IN IT KINDA LIKE A FUNNEL. WELL THIS TENNIS BALL IS GONNA SIMULATE INTO A LITTLE CHECK BALL. NOW WHILE THAT THING'S RIDING AROUND, THE BALL'S JUST KINDA HANGING OUT IN THERE. BUT WHENEVER THE TANK OR CAR GETS FLIPPED UPSIDE DOWN, THE BALL FALLS INTO THE TAPER PLUGGING THE HOLE, KEEPING ANY FLUID FROM ESCAPING. IT'S PRETTY SIMPLE, YET EFFICIENT.
(STEVE)>> WE'VE OPTED FOR THESE MOUNTING STRAPS TO KEEP OUR CONTAINER, WELL, CONTAINED. IT'S IMPORTANT TO MOUNT THIS UP FROM ALL DIRECTIONS TO KEEP IT FROM BECOMING A FUEL FILLED PROJECTILE IN CASE OF AN ACCIDENT. THIS IS THE SENDING UNIT FOR OUR FUEL GAUGE. IT'S IMPORTANT TO MAKE SURE THAT THE OHM RESISTANCE BETWEEN THIS UNIT AND OUR FUEL GAUGE IS THE SAME TO GET AN ACCURATE READING. THERE ARE A FEW POPULAR ITEMS ON THE MARKET. THIS ONE HAPPENS TO READ BETWEEN ZERO AND 90 OHMS. THIS IS HOW IT WORKS. WHEN THE FUEL LEVEL IS LOW, THERE IS A LOW LEVEL OF RESISTANCE IN THE UNIT. WHEN YOU PUT FUEL IN THE TANK, THIS ARM MOVES A POTENTIOMETER IN THE UNIT, WHICH CHANGES THE LEVEL OF RESISTANCE ON THE CENTER. THIS ALSO MOVES THE GAUGE. SO A MISMATCH ON ONE OF THESE IS PRECISELY WHY YOUR BUDDY CARL'S NOVA READS HALF A GAUGE WHEN IT ACTUALLY IS FULL, OR MY WIFE'S '66 VW, YEP, FOR REAL.
UH, OH, OKAY NOW THAT WE'VE GOT THE TANK UP IN HERE, IT SEEMS WE'RE GONNA HAVE A LITTLE BIT OF A DILEMMA, NOTHING MAJOR. WHAT WE'VE DONE IS WE'VE OPTED FOR A LITTLE BIT TANK BECAUSE IT'S GONNA BE A STREET DRIVEN CAR, BUT WE HAD THE SUMP HANGING DOWN IN THE BACK. WE DON'T WANT IT HANGING THIS LOW UNDER THE CHASSIS BECAUSE WE DO NOT WANT IT TO BECOME A CATCH ALL FOR WHATEVER MIGHT BE ON THE ROAD. WE'RE THEREFORE GONNA CUT THE TRUNK FLOOR AND PULL IT UP INTO THE FLOOR, PROBABLY A FEW INCHES TO GET INTO A SAFETY MARGIN.
I DON'T WANT TO CUT THE PANEL FROM THE BOTTOM IF I DON'T HAVE TO BECAUSE I DON'T FEEL LIKE GETTING SHOWERED IN A BUNCH OF METAL SHARDS. I'LL PUNCH OUT THE HOLE WHERE EACH OF MY CORNERS ARE GOING TO BE, AND AS FOR THE TOP SIDE, I'LL REDRAW MY LINES. A BODY SAW MAKES QUICK WORK OF THE METAL, AND AFTER A COUPLE
OF MINUTES WE'LL HAVE A HOLE FOR OUR CELL.
WELL IF THE OLD MEASURE TWICE, CUT ONCE PHILOSOPHY WORKS, WE SHOULD BE IN THE BALLPARK. THAT'S NOT TOO BAD. WHAT WE'LL DO NOW IS WE'LL GET UNDERNEATH THE CAR AND REDO THE STRAPS FOR A DIFFERENT DEPTH BECAUSE OF WHAT WE'VE
DONE UNDERNEATH, AND STRAP IT IN. HOPEFULLY IT'LL STAY.
(TOMMY)>> NOW NORMALLY THESE STRAPS WOULD BE PLENTY GOOD
ENOUGH IF YOU WERE MOUNTING THE FUEL TANK STRAIGHT INTO THE TRUNK FLOOR. BUT WITH OURS, SINCE WE'RE RECESSING IT HALF THROUGH THE FLOOR, WE'RE GONNA HAVE TO BUILD SOME EXTRA SUPPORTS TO MAKE SURE OUR TANK DOESN'T GO ANYWHERE. A FEW MEASUREMENTS WILL GIVE ME THE DIMENSION OF THE PLATE I'M GOING TO MAKE. AND A PIECE OF LEFTOVER EIGHTH INCH STOCK STEEL IS PERFECT TO DRAW IT UP ON.
IAN AND THOSE ROCK CRAWLER GUYS DIMPLE DYE THEIR SKID PLATES ALL THE TIME FOR STRENGTH, AND I'M STARTING TO THINK THEY MAY BE ON TO SOMETHING. I'M GONNA BURN ON A COUPLE OF WINGS THAT STEP THE HEIGHT OF OUR PLATE DOWN JUST A NOTCH AND FUNCTION
AS MOUNTING SUPPORTS.
(STEVE)>> A COUPLE OF "L" BRACKETS BURNED INTO THE FRAME RAIL IS WHAT WE'LL USE AS A FOUNDATION FOR THE WHOLE SETUP, AND THIS IS WHERE EVERYTHING WILL BOLT TOGETHER.
LASTLY, SO WE DON'T HAVE TO CHASE SOME NUTS WITH A WRENCH, I'LL WELD A COUPLE OF NUTS TO THE TOP SIDE OF THE PLATE.
WELL WE'VE GOT OUR MOUNTING PLATE MADE FOR OUR FUEL CELL, WHICH IS ALSO GONNA DO A LOT TO PROTECT THE BOTTOM OF IT. NOW ALL WE'VE GOT TO DO IS GET SOME PLUMBING TO THE BACK OF THIS THING, UP TO THE FRONT, AND GET
THAT HEMI BURNING FIRE.
(ANNOUNCER)>> FUEL LINES, A FORD, AND FASTENER FUN, COMING UP WE GET GAS TO THE HEMI, TRY TO CHASE DOWN A TORINO COBRA, AND THEN FIND OUT WHY ALL BOLTS ARE NOT CREATED EQUAL.
(TOMMY)>> WITH OUT CELL IN PLACE AND BRACED UP ALL NICE AND TIGHT, WE'RE READY TO START DOING SOME PLUMBING FOR OUR FUEL SYSTEM. NOW WE'RE RUNNING A LITTLE MORE POWER THAN JUST YOUR STANDARD RUN OF THE MILL. SO WE'VE GOT TO MAKE SURE THAT OUR FUEL PUMP AND THE WHOLE SYSTEM CAN KEEP UP WITH IT. A GOOD PLACE TO START IS WITH SOMETHING LIKE THAT. NOW THIS AIN'T A LITTLE BABY ROCKET PACK, IT'S A FUEL PUMP. WE CALLED UP OUR BUDDIES DOWN AT SUMMIT RACING AND THEY HELPED US OUT WITH THIS HOLLEY DOMINATOR FUEL PUMP. NOW IF YOU'RE NEEDING TO MOVE A WHOLE LOT OF FUEL,
THIS IS THE ANSWER. THIS THING WILL SUPPORT UP TO 1,800 HORSE. WHAT MAKES THIS DESIGN UNIQUE IS IT'S TWO PUMPS IN ONE. SO JUST FOR NORMAL APPLICATION, JUST RIDING AROUND TOWN, YOU'RE RUNNING OFF ONE SIDE OF THE PUMP.
BUT IF YOU'RE RUNNING A NITROUS SETUP OR A BOOSTED APPLICATION LIKE WE ARE, YOU CAN ACTIVATE THE SECOND SIDE OF THIS PUMP TO HAVE ALL THE FUEL YOU'LL EVER NEED WHENEVER YOU WANT IT. THE BEAUTY BEHIND NOT RUNNING BOTH PUMPS ALL THE TIME IS IT CUTS DOWN ON THE UNNECESSARY CIRCULATION OF FUEL, WHICH CAUSES HEAT AND CAUSES YOU TO LOSE POWER.
(STEVE)>> WHAT WE'VE RUN INTO IS WITH OUR SKINNY FRAME RAILS AND OUR FAT TIRES, WE'VE KINDA LIMITED OUR OPTIONS ON WHERE TO HANG THE FUEL PUMP. WE DECIDED TO HANG IT UP HERE ON THE FRONT OF THE TANK WHERE IT'LL BE OUT OF THE WAY FROM ANY DEBRIS FROM THE ROAD, BE PROTECTED BY THE REAR AXLE, AND AWAY FROM THE HEAT OF THE EXHAUST. HOPEFULLY IT'LL WORK GOOD, I DON'T THINK IT'LL BE A PROBLEM.
WHAT I'VE DONE IS MAKE A COUPLE OF FLAT BRACKETS TO MOUNT TO THE FUEL PUMP, AND THESE BRACKETS WILL MOUNT TO THE STRAPS ON THE FUEL CELL. WE'LL USE A SET OF STUDS TO HOLD THE PUMP IN PLACE. WE'LL JUST TAKE THE PUMP, PLUG IT IN, AND KEEP IT THERE WITH A FEW LOCK NUTS. TO KEEP OUR FUEL PRESSURE UNDER CONTROL, WE'RE GONNA USE THIS HOLLEY BILLET FUEL PRESSURE REGULATOR. WE MOUNTED AN EARL'S GAUGE TO THE FACE OF IT SO WE CAN GET A REAL TIME LOOK AT THE FUEL PRESSURE WHILE THE CARBURETORS ARE RUNNING AND ALSO TO SET THEM. MOST CARBURETORS RUN BETWEEN FIVE AND SEVEN POUNDS OF PRESSURE. JUST AS A NOTE, IF YOU GUYS ARE GONNA RUN FUEL INJECTION
INSTEAD OF CARBURETION, MOST OF THOSE SYSTEMS RUN BETWEEN 25 AND 45 POUNDS. WHAT WE'RE DOING IS USING THE REGULATOR AS A DISTRIBUTION BLOCK.
THIS SETUP IS EASY TO MANAGE AND KEEPS THE REGULATOR AS CLOSE AS POSSIBLE TO THE CARBS, AND YOU CONTROL THE FUEL PRESSURE BEFORE IT GETS TO THEM. WE'LL MOUNT THE REGULATOR ON THE TOP INNER FENDER ON THE PASSENGER SIDE. THIS ANGLE GIVES US GREAT VISIBILITY FOR THE PRESSURE GAUGE AND IT KEEPS THE FUEL LINES UP HIGH IN THE ENGINE COMPARTMENT, AWAY FROM THE ENGINE AND THE EXHAUST. OUR ENTIRE SYSTEM IS GONNA BE PLUMBED WITH THESE BLACK ANODIZED ALUMINUM EARL'S FITTINGS. AS FOR LINES, WE'LL GO WITH SOME EARL'S PRO LITE ULTRA HOSE.
REMEMBER TO USE THE PROPER WRENCHES FOR THE FITTINGS SO YOU DON'T MESS THEM ALL UP.
SINCE THESE BIG, STOUT HOSES DON'T TWIST VERY EASILY, I'LL MARK WHERE I WANT THE THINGS TO BE CLOCKED AND MAKE SURE TO MAINTAIN THE PROPER INDEXING.
ONE LAST THING I WANT TO MENTION GUYS, THE REAL REASON
FOR HAVING A RETURN STYLE FUEL SYSTEM, VAPOR LOCK. VAPOR LOCK IS WHAT HAPPENS WHEN THE HEAT IN THE MOTOR ACTUALLY TURNS THE FUEL IN THE LINE INTO VAPOR. IT BOILS IT. THIS WILL ACTUALLY STOP THE FLOW OF FUEL AND KILL THE ENGINE. GUYS THERE WAS A TIME WHEN VAPOR LOCK REALLY WAS A MAJOR ISSUE. CARS WOULD DIE IN INTERSECTIONS, CAUSE MAJOR TRAFFIC JAMS, AND I CAN'T TELL YOU HOW MANY WIVES TALES I'VE HEARD WHERE GUYS WOULD TAKE THEIR MOM'S WOODEN CLOTHS
PINS, CLAMP THEM ONTO THE FUEL LINES, WRAP THEIR FUEL LINES IN TIN FOIL, AND EVEN WRAP THEM IN A COIL TO TRY AND COOL THEM DOWN. DID ANY OF THOSE THINGS EVER REALLY WORK, WHO KNOWS?
(ANNOUNCER)>> STICK AROUND AND SEE WHAT THE FAMILY RESEMBLANCE IS BETWEEN YOUR GRANDMA'S GROCERY GETTING TORINO AND THIS BANGED OUT FORD WITH AN ATTITUDE PROBLEM.
(ANNOUNCER)>> TODAY'S FLASHBACK, A 1971 FORD TORINO COBRA.
(TOMMY)>> THE '70'S MAY HAVE BEATEN THE TAR OUT OF THE MUSCLE CAR, BUT THE '71 TORINO COBRA STILL HAD PLENTY OF VENOM LEFT TO MAKE ITS BITE DEADLY. WATCH OUT CAUSE THIS SNAKE IS COILED UP AND READY TO STRIKE.
AS PART OF FORD'S MID SIZE LINE, THE TORINO SERVED DOUBLE DUTY AS BOTH A SENSIBLE FAMILY CAR AND A
RADICAL STREET MACHINE. IT STARTED OFF AS A SPORTY MEMBER OF THE FAIRLANE LINE IN '68, BUT BY '71 THE TORINO HAD TAKEN OVER AND THE FAIRLANE WAS GIVEN THE BOOT. THE NAME COMES FROM ITALY'S VERSION OF DETROIT, WHICH SUITS THE CAR WELL, GREAT STYLING MATCHED WITH RAW AMERICAN POWER UNDER THE HOOD. THE REAL MUSCLE WAS IN THE COBRA, FIRST UNLEASHED IN '69. IT CAME STANDARD WITH A 285 HORSE 351, OR YOU COULD PICK YOUR POISON. THERE WAS THE 429 COBRAJET BANGING OUT 370 HORSEPOWER. BUT TO REALLY SHAKE UP THINGS YOU COULD ORDER A SUPER COBRAJET WITH A RAM AIR SCOOP AND A SHAKER HOOD CAPABLE OF 375 HORSEPOWER.
IT RAN THROUGH THE QUARTER MILE IN 14.5 SECONDS
AT 102 MILES PER HOUR. NOT BAD FOR A TWO TON BEAST.
LIKE ANY SNAKE, YOU CAN TELL IF IT'S DANGEROUS BY ITS MARKINGS. THE WARNING SIGNS WERE THE BLACKED OUT HOOD AND THE TAIL PANEL, NOT TO MENTION A TON OF BADGES ALL AROUND. PLUS IT HAD A UNIQUE GRILL THAT WASN'T SPLIT IN THE MIDDLE LIKE ALL THE OTHER TORINOS. STANDARD FEATURES ALSO INCLUDED HEAVY DUTY SUSPENSION, DUAL EXHAUST, AND A SET OF WIDE OVAL SEVEN INCH WHEELS. THE BASE COBRA WOULD COST YOU AROUND $3,300, BUT THIS ONE TRICKED OUT WITH LOTS OF EXTRAS RAN THE TICKET TO ALMOST $5,000. EXTRAS LIKE THE UNUSUAL RIBBON TACH, WHICH WAS COOL
BUT KINDA HARD TO READ. IT'S ALSO OPTIONED WITH HIGH BACK BUCKET SEATS, AND AUTOMATIC CSIX TRANSMISSION, MAG WHEELS, AND REFLECTIVE LASER STRIPES DOWN BOTH SIDES. A NINE INCH TRACTION LOCK DIFF WITH 3.91 GEARS HELPED SHED SOME SNAKE SKIN. THE COBRA WAS ONE OF BLUE OVAL'S LAST ATTEMPTS AT BIG CARS WITH BIG MUSCLE. TIPPING THE SCALES AT 3,800 POUNDS AND MEASURING 206 INCHES IN LENGTH. THE COBRA WAS REALLY MORE OF AN ANACONDA. THE STYLING FOR '71 WAS PRETTY MUCH THE SAME AS '70, AND FEATURED THE FASTBACK SPORT ROOFS THAT DIDN'T COME ON THE BASE MODELS. ONLY ABOUT 3,000 COBRAS WERE SOLD IN '71, MAKING THIS ONE RARE CAR. THROW IN OPTIONS LIKE THE RAM AIR 429, RED ON RED LOOK, AND THIS IS ONE OF ONLY A HANDFUL EVER BUILT. IT WAS THE LAST YEAR FOR THE SECOND GEN TORINO AND THE COBRA OPTION. IN '72 A BRAND NEW LOOK WAS ON ITS WAY AND POWER, WELL IT WENT OUT THE WINDOW. SO IF YOU SEE THIS COBRA SLITHERING DOWN THE ROAD, THINK TWICE BEFORE GOING NEAR IT. IT AIN'T NO GARDEN SNAKE.
(ANNOUNCER)>> IT'S A FASTENER FREE FOR ALL. LEARN THE RIGHT AND WRONG WAY TO HOLD YOUR RIDE TOGETHER.
(TOMMY)>> TODAY ON OUR DODGE WE'VE BEEN ALL ABOUT THE FUEL SYSTEM, WHICH YOU OBVIOUSLY HAVE TO TAKE CARE OF TO HAVE A SAFE CAR. BUT THERE'S ANOTHER ASPECT OF THAT WHICH WE'D LIKE TO TALK ABOUT THAT OFTEN TIMES GOES UNNOTICED. YOU NEED TO HAVE THE RIGHT BOLT FOR THE RIGHT JOB AT HAND.
JUST BECAUSE THEY'RE THE SAME SIZE DOESN'T MEAN THEY'RE THE SAME STRENGTH. NOW A LOT OF TIMES WHEN PEOPLE WALK INTO A HARDWARE STORE AND
GRAB A HANDFUL OF BOLTS, MOST OF THE TIME THEY'RE JUST GRABBING WHATEVER IS THE CHEAPEST, BUT THAT COULD
BE A RECIPE FOR DISASTER.
A BOLT'S GRADE IS DETERMINED BY HOW STRONG IT IS. WITH METRIC AND STANDARD BOLTS, THEY ALL HAVE THEIR OWN SYSTEM. BUT SINCE WE'RE WORKING ON THIS OLE TIMEY MUSCLE CAR STUFF, WE'RE JUST GONNA STICK WITH THE SAE STUFF TODAY. WHEN MOUNTING SUSPENSION, STEERING, MOTOR, TRANNY, SOMETHING LIKE THAT, YOU WANT TO MAKE SURE TO USE A HARDENED BOLT LIKE A GRADE EIGHT. NOW THESE THINGS ARE HARDER THAN A PEACH SEED. IF YOU'RE WONDERING WHICH ONE YOU'VE GOT JUST LOOK AT THE HEAD OF THE BOLT. IF IT'S GOT THE SIX NOTCHES, THAT'S A GRADE EIGHT. THEY'RE MADE OF CARBON ALLOY STEEL, WHICH IS BOTH QUENCHED AND TEMPERED, AND AT THE SAME TIME THEY'RE STRONG ENOUGH TO
WITHSTAND THE FORCES INVOLVED WITH HOLDING UP THE WEIGHT OF THE VEHICLE EVEN IN COMPETITION. GRADE FIVE BOLTS ARE THE NEXT STEP DOWN. YOU CAN IDENTIFY THEM BY THE THREE SLASHES ON THE TOP. THEY'RE FINE TO USE ON PIECES THAT DON'T HOLD UP A LOT OF WEIGHT OR AREN'T ON MOVING PARTS LIKE SHEET METAL, INTERIOR COMPONENTS, THAT KIND OF STUFF.
AND FINALLY THERE'S GRADE TWO. NOW WE DON'T HAVE ANY OF THOSE TO SHOW YOU CAUSE WE TRY NOT TO USE THEM HERE IN THE SHOP. YOU CAN IDENTIFY THEM BY EITHER A SINGLE OR NO MARKINGS ON THE HEAD. NOW THEY'RE PERFECTLY FINE IF YOU'RE HANGING A PORCH SWING AT YOUR AUNT MIMI'S HOUSE, BUT TRY NOT TO USE THEM ON THE CAR.
YOU CAN GET BOLTS THAT ARE EVEN STRONGER THAN A GRADE EIGHT, LIKE THIS HARMONIC BALANCER BOLT FROM ARP. NOW ARP MANUFACTURES BOLTS THAT ARE A LOT STRONGER THAN ANY STANDARD HARDWARE. YOU'VE SEE HORSEPOWER USE THEIR FASTENERS ON A WHOLE BUNCH OF THINGS, LIKE ENGINE INTERNALS. THAT'S BECAUSE THEIR COMPONENTS ARE BEING PUSHED TO THE LIMITS AND THEY REQUIRE SOMETHING THAT'S BOTH RELIABLE AND DURABLE. THE OTHER HALF OF THE FASTENER EQUATION IS THE NUT, AND THE JOB OF KEEPING IT TIGHT AS IT'S SUPPOSED TO BE. NOW THERE'S SEVERAL DIFFERENT OPTIONS OUT THERE TO DO JUST THAT. THIS IS A NYLON LOCK NUT. WHEN YOU TIGHTEN IT, YOU'RE ACTUALLY CUTTING INTO THE NYLON BAND ON THE INSIDE OF THE NUT THAT WILL KEEP IT FROM LOOSENING UP.
THIS IS AN EXCELLENT OPTION FOR A LOT OF DIFFERENT SITUATIONS, BUT IT'S NOT A GOOD IDEA WHEN IT COMES TO HIGH TEMP ENVIRONMENTS. A SIMILAR DESIGN IS THE STEEL LOCK NUT, WHICH IS PRETTY MUCH THE SAME IDEA AS THE NYLON NUT EXCEPT WHEN YOU TIGHTEN THIS ONE UP YOU'RE DIGGING INTO A STEEL BAND. THIS IS THE ONE YOU WANT FOR THE HOT SPOTS. ANOTHER ONE IS A CASTLE NUT, WHICH YOU SEE A LOT ON SUSPENSION PARTS. THEY'RE DESIGNED TO THREAD ON. THEN USE A COTTER PIN TO SLIP IN BETWEEN HERE AND THROUGH
A HOLE IN THE BOLT. WELL HOW ABOUT A FLANGE NUT. THIS HAS BASICALLY GOT A BUILT IN LOCK WASHER ON THE BOTTOM OF IT, AND THESE LITTLE BLADES DIG INTO YOUR SURFACE METAL TO KEEP IT AT HOME. SPEAKING OF WHICH, WE'VE GOT A COUPLE OF DIFFERENT TYPE OF LOCK WASHERS. THIS IS SPLIT TYPE LOCK WASHER. HOW IT WORKS IS WHEN IT'S COMPRESSED, THIS BLADE AND THIS BLADE DIG INTO THE MATERIAL, KEEPING IT IN PLACE. A STOCK WASHER WORKS KINDA THE SAME WAY EXCEPT FOR IT HAS A FEW MORE BLADES SO TO SPEAK, WHICH GRAPPLE TO THE SURFACE. IF YOU'VE GOT A PLACE TO BRACE IT UP AGAINST, THESE STAGE EIGHT LOCKING FASTENERS WILL HOLD IT DOWN LIKE NOBODY'S BUSINESS. THIS RETAINER AND CLIP GO ON AFTER INSTALLATION AND PREVENT THE BOLT FROM TURNING. THEY AREN'T GONNA COME BACK OFF UNLESS YOU WANT THEM TO. AND OF COURSE ANOTHER WAY TO PREVENT UNWANTED MOVEMENT AS WELL AS LEAKS AND CORROSION, IS WITH A DAB OF LOCTITE. THEY HAVE COMPOUNDS DESIGNED FOR LOW TO HIGH STRENGTHS, HIGH TEMPERATURES, OIL CONTAMINATION, YOU NAME IT, THERE'S SOMETHING FOR EVERY SITUATION. SOMEWHERE IN ALL THIS YOU OUGHT TO BE READY TO JUST ABOUT FASTEN ANYTHING TOGETHER. BUT JUST IN CASE YOU NEED SOMETHING WITH A LITTLE MORE
UMPH TO IT, YOU MIGHT TRY ONE OF THESE. YOU NEVER KNOW WHEN YOU'RE GONNA HAVE TO REDO A BRIDGE OR SOMETHING.
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