Detroit Muscle Featured Projects
Detroit Muscle Builds
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Join the PowerNation Email NewsletterParts Used In This Episode
Red Kap
Performance Shop Pant
The Industrial Depot
The Industrial Depot - Fasteners, Hardware and Shop Supplies
WD-40
Aerosol, 12 oz., lubricant, water dispersant, penetrant, protectant
Zip Corvette
65-70 396/427/454 Water Pump Rebuild Kit
Video Transcript
(ANNOUNCER)>> GRANTED,
ENGINES THEMSELVES ARE
BASICALLY BIG AIR PUMPS THAT REQUIRE SEVERAL VITAL FLUIDS TO STAY ALIVE. TODAY ON DETROIT MUSCLE WE'LL SHOW YOU THREE LOW BUCK PUMP REBUILDS THAT'LL KEEP YOUR RIDE ALIVE AND KICKING.
(JOE)>> IT DOESN'T MATTER WHAT KIND OF STREET
MACHINE YOU'RE RUNNING, THEY ALL NEED FLUIDS TO STAY ALIVE, AND SOME KIND OF PUMP TO MOVE THAT FLUID
WHERE IT NEEDS TO BE. WELL TODAY ON DETROIT MUSCLE WE'RE GONNA SHOW YOU SOME BUDGET MINDED METHODS TO MAKE SURE YOUR RIDE STAYS PROPERLY PUMPED UP. OIL, GASOLINE, WATER, ALL FLUIDS NEED PUMPS, WHICH CAN WEAR OUT. WE'RE GONNA SHOW YOU HOW TO REBUILD ALL THREE.
(TOMMY)>> FIRST OFF LETS TALK ABOUT FUEL. LET'S SAY YOU'VE GOT A MILDLY HOPPED UP SMALL BLOCK CHEVY. SO YOU'RE PROBABLY GONNA NEED A FUEL PUMP LIKE THIS ONE. THIS IS REFERRED TO THE RED PUMP THAT'S OFFERED BY HOLLEY. AND IT PUMPS OUT 97 GALLONS PER HOUR AND IT COST A LITTLE OVER $100 BUCKS IF YOU BOUGHT ONE NEW. THIS ELECTRIC PUMP HAS A BIGGER BROTHER THAT'S OFTEN REFERRED TO AS THE BLUE PUMP. NOW IT'S MORE STREET/STRIP MINDED.
IT HAS A GALLONS PER HOUR RATING AT 110.
(JOE)>> IF THE MOTOR IN YOUR FUEL PUMP HAS GONE OUT, WELL CHANCES ARE YOU NEED TO REPLACE IT. BUT IF IT'S JUST SPUTTER OR LOSING A LITTLE POWER ON ACCELERATION, HERE'S WHAT YOU NEED TO DO
BEFORE YOU REMOVE THE PUMP FOR REPAIRS. FIRST MAKE SURE YOU'VE GOT A 12 VOLT SUPPLY OF ENERGY. MAKE SURE THE FUEL LINES AREN'T OBSTRUCTED BY BLOWING THEM OUT WITH SOME AIR.
AND ALSO MAKE SURE YOU HAVE A FREE FLOWING FUEL FILTER.
(TOMMY)>> IF IT TURNS OUT IT'S TIME TO SERVICE THE MECHANICAL SIDE OF YOUR FUEL PUMP, WELL HOLLEY OFFERS A COUPLE OF KITS TO DO THAT. ONE IS THE CHECK VALVE KIT AND THE OTHER IS THE ROTOR AND VEIN KIT. BOTH OF THESE COST ABOUT $30 BUCKS TOGETHER.
(JOE)>> OKAY, TO GET US GOING WE WANT TO FIRST REMOVE THESE BOLTS AND THE BOTTOM PLATE.
HERE'S WHERE YOU PUT YOUR CELL PHONE CAMERA TO GOOD USE. THAT WAY YOU'LL KNOW THE EXACT POSITION OF THE PARTS WHEN IT'S TIME TO PUT THEM BACK TOGETHER, INCLUDING THE SCREEN WHICH COMES OUT NOW. THEN THE ROTOR VEINS AND ROTOR. NEXT REMOVE THE PRESSURE RELIEF SCREW AND RELIEF PLUNGER. ALRIGHT NEXT, BEFORE ANYTHING ELSE, WE'RE GONNA GIVE THIS HOUSING A LITTLE CLEAN UP JOB WITH SOME SPRAY ON CARB CLEANER. WHATEVER YOU DO DON'T EVER SUBMERGE ONE OF THESE ELECTRIC PUMPS IN ANYTHING OR YOU COULD DAMAGE THE MOTOR. NOW OUR HOUSING LOOKS PRETTY CLEAN BUT OFT TIMES HERE ON THE INLET SIDE PIECE OF RUBBER OR TEFLON CAN GET LODGED IN HERE AND DISRUPT THE FLOW. WE'RE ABOUT READY TO INSTALL OUR NEW PARTS, BUT
FIRST WE WANT TO MAKE SURE THIS NEW PLUNGER MOVES FREELY INSIDE THE HOUSING.
IF IT DIDN'T WE'D HAVE TO DRESS IT UP WITH AN EMERY CLOTH. SO WE CAN GO AHEAD AND DROP THIS LITTLE RUBBER SEAT IN THE END OF OUR PLUNGER.
IN GOES THE PLUNGER, NEW SPRING AND ORING.
NOW I CAN DROP THE SCREEN IN PLACE JUST LIKE IN THE PHOTO. NEW ROTOR, AND THE VEINS. AND THE FINAL STEP IS TO SWAP OUT THE HOUSING GASKET.
TORQUE THE BOLTS TO ABOUT 50 INCH POUNDS. AND THAT'S ALL THERE IS TO IT AND THE BEST PART IS YOU CAN SAVE CLOSE TO $100 BUCKS VERSUS THE COST OF A NEW PUMP. WHAT DO YOU THINK?
(TOMMY)>> WELL YOU KNOW DOING IT YOURSELF ALWAYS HELP IN PUMPING YOUR EGO. HE DOESN'T NEED HELP WITH THAT.
(ANNOUNCER)>> WELL NOW THAT YOU'VE GOT THE FUEL TAKEN CARE OF, YOU'VE GOT TO KEEP THAT THING COOL. STICK AROUND AND WE'LL GO OVER WATER PUMP RECONSTRUCTION. PLUS FIND OUT WHAT PUTS THE LEADER IN SYNTHETIC OIL TECH OUT IN FRONT.
(TOMMY)>> NOT MANY OF US WOULD BOTHER WITH
REBUILDING A MECHANICAL WATER PUMP WHENEVER YOU CAN JUST STROLL INTO JUST ANY OLE PARTS STORE AND BUY A REPLACEMENT PART OFF THE SHELF FOR ABOUT $30 BUCKS. BUT LETS SAY YOU'VE GOT A NUMBERS MATCHING CAR AND YOU'RE TRYING TO KEEP IT ALL ORIGINAL, OR SOMETHING LIKE THIS ALUMINUM 427 PERFORMANCE PUMP. IT'S WORTH THE REBUILD.
THIS THING SELLS FOR ABOUT $160 BUCKS NEW AND YOU CAN SAVE YOURSELF ABOUT $100 BUCKS WITH A REBUILD. THIS WEEP HOLE IS DESIGNED TO LET THE BEARING AND LUBRICANT BREATHE. WITHOUT THIS HOLE, THE OIL WOULD BE FORCED PAST THE SEAL AND ENTER INTO THE COOLING SYSTEM. THIS ONE'S BEEN LEAKING COOLANT, WHICH CAN BE CAUSED BY HIGH MILES, AGE, OR EVEN TOO MUCH BELT TENSION. EITHER WAY, IT WOULD BE JUST A MATTER OF TIME BEFORE WE HAD PUMP FAILURE. WE'RE GONNA START TEARDOWN BY REMOVING THIS HOSE NIPPLE. THEN WE'LL SNATCH OUT THESE SIX BOLTS TO REMOVE THE BACK COVER. WITH THE COVER REMOVED YOU CAN LOOK AT THE IMPELLER AND IT'LL TELL YOU WHETHER OR NOT IT'S A STANDARD OR REVERSE ROTATION. WITH WATER PUMPS YOU HAVE TWO DIFFERENT CLASSIFICATIONS. YOU HAVE STANDARD ROTATION, WHICH IS CLOCKWISE, AND REVERSE ROTATION, WHICH IS COUNTER CLOCKWISE. AND BOTH OF THESE HAVE TWO DIFFERENT IMPELLERS. IF YOU PUT THE WRONG ONE FOR YOUR SETUP, WELL YOU'RE GONNA RUN INTO COOLING PROBLEMS. NEXT YOU NEED A PRESS AND A BOLT TO PUSH THIS SHAFT OUT OF THE HUB. AFTER THAT A DEEP WELL SOCKET CAN SLOWLY PUSH THE IMPELLER AND THE SHAFT ASSEMBLY OUT OF THE HOUSING. WITH OUR HOUSING ALL EMPTY, WE'RE GONNA TOSS IT
IN THE BLASTER FOR A LITTLE CLEAN UP WORK.
THIS IS WHEN YOU CAN REMOVE ALL THAT OLD GASKET MATERIAL IN ADDITION TO CHECKING THE HOUSING FOR CRACKS. A WIRE BRUSH AND SOME SOLVENT IS SLOWER BUT ALSO EFFECTIVE.
(JOE)>> WELL TOMMY WHILE I WAS OUT GETTING A HAIRCUT, GUESS WHAT ELSE I GOT, REBUILD KIT.
(TOMMY)>> WELL I'LL TELL YOU, I HOPE THAT REBUILD KIT GOES BETTER THAN HIS HAIR CUT.
(JOE)>> GET OUT OF HERE. THIS REBUILD KIT, SERIOUS, COMES FROM A COMPANY CALLED ZIP CORVETTE PRODUCTS, AND INCLUDES EVERYTHING FROM A NEW SHAFT, IMPELLER, FRONT HUB, BEARINGS, EVERYTHING AND ANYTHING WE NEED TO REBUILD THIS THING GOOD AS NEW. NOW FIRST THING I'M GONNA DO THOUGH IS SPRAY THE INSIDE HERE WITH SOME WD 40 TO PREVENT GALLING. THE LONGER END OF THE SHAFT IS GROOVED, AND THAT'S THE PART THAT GETS PRESSED INTO THE HOUSING.
WHEN IT'S INSTALLED THE BEARING RACE PART SHOULD BE FLUSH WITH THE HOUSING. ON THE OTHER SIDE A SOCKET WILL PUSH THE NEW SEAL OVER THE NEW SHAFT.
THEN YOU CAN SWITCH TO A BIGGER SOCKET TO GET IT BOTTOMED OUT AGAINST THE HOUSING FLANGE. NEXT TO GO ON IS THE FAN HUB. IN THE PRESS POSITION THE WATER PUMP ASSEMBLY SO THE
SHAFT CAN BE PRESSED INTO THE HUB. MEASURING FROM THE FRONT OF THE HUB TO THE INLET, THE DISTANCE SHOULD BE FIVE AND FIVEEIGHTHS.
THEN PRESS THE NEW IMPELLER OVER THE SHAFT, MAKING SURE THE BLADES DON'T TOUCH THE HOUSING. USING A FEELER GAUGE, YOU NEED FROM 10 TO 13
THOUSANDTHS CLEARANCE BETWEEN THE IMPELLER BLADES AND HOUSING. THEN IT'S SIMPLY REPLACE THE COVER AND MAKE DOUBLE SURE THE SHAFT TURNS FREELY. OKAY, THAT ONLY TOOK ABOUT AN HOUR'S WORTH OF WORK. NOW YOU'RE READY FOR PAINT IF THAT'S IN YOUR PLANS. BUT IN ANY EVEN YOU'VE GOT AN ORIGINAL LOOKING,
BETTER PERFORMING WATER PUMP, NOT BAD.
(ANNOUNCER)>> STILL AHEAD, WE'VE GOT THE OIL PUMP RESCUE WE'VE BEEN PROMISING. AND SPEAKING OF OIL WE'LL ALSO GET INTO THE SCIENCE OF HIGH END SYNTHETIC LUBRICANTS, STICK AROUND!
(JOE)>> WELL SO FAR WE'VE REBUILT A FUEL PUMP AND MECHANICAL WATER PUMP. I GUESS AN OIL PUMP'S NEXT. BUT FIRST WE WANT TO TAKE A CLOSER LOOK AT WHAT RUNS
THROUGH THAT OIL PUMP.
SINCE 1972, SYNTHETIC OIL USE HAS GROWN LIKE CRAZY. NOW WHILE MOST BRANDS MAKE ENGINES RUN SMOOTHER AND COOLER, HOW COULD ONE BOAST SUPERIOR PROTECTION? WELL WE'RE GOING DOWN TO HOUSTON TO FIND OUT. THIS IS WHERE OUR STORY BEGINS, THE TANK FARM AT ROYAL PURPLE'S HEADQUARTERS NEAR HOUSTON. EACH OF THESE 56 CONTAINERS HOLDS THOUSANDS OF GALLONS OF BASE OIL READY TO TRAVEL THROUGH A MAZE OF STAINLESS STEEL PIPES TO ONE OF MANY BLENDING TANKS INSIDE. HERE'S WHERE THE ADVANCED ADDITIVE TECHNOLOGY IS INTRODUCED. FORTIFYING THE BASE OIL AND CREATING ROYAL PURPLE'S NOW FAMOUS FILM STRENGTH. THIS WHOLE AREA IS DEDICATED TO INDUSTRIAL LUBRICANTS, USED TO KEEP CUSTOMER EQUIPMENT RUNNING AROUND THE COUNTRY AND BEYOND. AND BECAUSE OF INCREASED DEMAND, PRODUCTION CAPACITY WAS RECENTLY RAMPED UP 200 PERCENT.
(LEIGH)>> IF SOMEONE NEEDS OIL, IT'S A CRITICAL SITUATION. SO WE NEED TO BE ABLE TO TURN IT, OR SHIP IT SAME DAY, OR NEXT DAY.
(JOE)>> THE WHOLE IDEA OF PRODUCING SYNTHETIC OIL FOR INDUSTRY IS WHAT GOT ROYAL PURPLE OFF THE ROUND IN 1986. AND BEFORE TOO LONG SOMETHING VERY INTERESTING HAPPENED. A FEW OF THE INDUSTRIAL CUSTOMERS WERE ALSO PART TIME RACERS, AND THEY WANTED TO TRY A VERSION OF THE SYNTHETIC OIL IN THEIR OWN HIGH PERFORMANCE ENGINES. WELL GUESS WHAT, IT NOT ONLY REDUCED WEAR, IT ALSO MAXIMIZED HORSEPOWER AND TORQUE. IN A WAY IT WAS THE BEGINNING OF A NEW ERA. PRODUCING SUPER PREMIUM SYNTHETICS FOR CONSUMERS. AND THAT BRINGS US TO ANOTHER ROYAL PURPLE FACILITY WHERE THESE BOTTLES ARE READY TO BE FILLED WITH 10 W30.
(RANDY)>> A LOT OF PROCESSES, PROCEDURES GO IN PLACE HERE TO ALLOW US TO HIT
THE CAPACITY WE WANT. OBVIOUSLY WE WANT TO CONTINUE THAT GROWTH, KEEP PEOPLE PURCHASING THE ROYAL PURPLE BRANDS.
(JOE)>> AT THIS FACILITY ROYAL PURPLE PRODUCTS UNDERGO SOME OF THE MOST RIGOROUS
TESTING IN THE INDUSTRY.
MORE THAN 40 BEFORE THEY CAN GO OUT THE DOOR.
(WILLIE)>> ONCE IT'S BLENDED AND PUT INTO THE FINAL PACKAGE, WE ALSO DO TESTING ON THE PACKAGED PRODUCT ITSELF, JUST TO MAKE SURE THAT WHAT WENT INTO THAT PACKAGE IS WHAT WE SAID WE PUT INTO IT.
(JOE)>> IN THIS FOAM TEST AMY POURS ABOUT 200
MILLILITERS OF MOTOR OIL INTO A CYLINDER, WHICH GOES INTO A VAT OF 200 DEGREE WATER TO
SIMULATE ENGINE HEAT. AFTER 10 MINUTES SHE ATTACHES A HOLLOW TUBE TO WHAT'S CALLED A FOAM STONE, WHICH GOES DIRECTLY INTO THE OIL. THEN AN AIR HOSE IS CONNECTED TO AERATE THE OIL FOR FIVE MINUTES.
(AMY)>> ABOUT 20 MILLILITERS OF FOAM SITTING ON THE TOP OF THE OIL IS ACCEPTABLE. IF YOU'VE GOT A PROBLEM YOU'LL SEE FOAM COMING ALL THE WAY UP THE TUBE.
(JOE)>> WHAT'S MOST IMPORTANT IS HOW LONG IT TAKES THE OIL TO DISSIPATE AFTER AERATION STOPS. 12 SECONDS IS DEFINITELY A PASSING GRADE.
(AMY)>> THIS IS OUR SPECTROMETER.
(JOE)>> THEN ONTO THIS MACHINE, WHICH EXAMINES THE OIL'S CHEMISTRY.
(AMY)>> WE TEST IT FOR QUALITY CONTROL TO FIND OUT THAT THE ADDITIVE PACKAGE THAT WE INTEND TO
BE IN THERE IS IN THERE, AND ALSO THAT THERE'S NO CONTAMINANTS THAT WE DON'T WANT.
(JOE)>> FIRST A LITTLE KEROSENE IS MIXED WITH MOTOR OIL THAT'S DRAWN THROUGH A TUBE TO THE MACHINE. ARGON GAS IS INTRODUCED HERE TO CREATE A MIST.
(AMY)>> SO THE MIST GOES UP THROUGH A POWER SOURCE, WHICH EXCITES THE ELECTRONS IN THE OIL. AND AS THEY COME OUT OF THE POWER SOURCE THEY GIVE THAT ENERGY BACK, WHICH CREATES A PLASMA THAT'S 18,000 DEGREES FAHRENHEIT.
(JOE)>> AT THIS POINT A TECHNICIAN CAN OBSERVE THE COMPOSITION OF 22 DIFFERENT ELEMENTS FROM ZINC TO ALUMINUM. NOW IN HERE IS THE R&D DEPARTMENT. THIS IS WHERE ROYAL PURPLE FORMULAS OF THE FUTURE ARE BEING DEVELOPED TODAY. SOME OF THE STUFF IS SO TOP SECRET IN HERE THEY EVEN COVERED UP THE CABINETS.
THEY DID LET US EAVESDROP ON A DESTRUCTIVE TEST THOUGH TO SEE WHICH OIL BEST PREVENTS GALLING OR SCARRING ON A LITTLE CYLINDER OF HARDENED STEEL. THE COMPETITOR'S SYNTHETIC IS FIRST POURED INTO A LITTLE METAL CONTAINER. A WHEEL ROTATES IN THE OIL. AND USING WEIGHTS AND FULCRUM, EIGHT POUNDS OF PRESSURE IS APPLIED TO THE STEEL CYLINDER ON TOP. NEXT THE SAME EXACT DRILL USING ROYAL PURPLE OIL. EVERYTHING'S GOT TO BE CONSISTENT. THE RESULTS, ON THE LEFT THE OTHER SYNTHETIC ALLOWED THREE TIMES MORE DAMAGE TO ITS STEEL CYLINDER.
(MIKE)>> EVERYBODY HAS HEARD THAT YOU PUT OUR OIL IN A CAR, YOU GET BETTER FUEL ECONOMY. THIS IS ONE OF THE REASONS.
(JOE)>> LIKE TESTING AND RESEARCH, EMPLOYEE EDUCATION IS ONGOING HERE TOO. YOU SEE IT'S NOT ENOUGH TO KNOW YOUR PRODUCT PERFORMS BETTER, YOU'VE GOT TO KNOW WHY. THESE GUYS SEEM TO HAVE THE FORMULA FOR SUCCESS DIALED IN. GIVE THE CUSTOMER THE BEST BANG FOR HIS HARD EARNED BUCK, AND HE'LL GIVE YOU A PRICELESS PAYBACK CALLED BRAND LOYALTY.
(TOMMY)>> HEY Y'ALL, WE'RE CONTINUING DOWN THE PATH OF THE WORLD'S PUMPS, AND NOW WE'RE GONNA TALK ABOUT ONE OF THE MOST IMPORTANT ONES, AND THAT IS THE OIL PUMP. OFTEN TIMES PEOPLE JUST THROW THE OLD ONE AWAY, BUT THERE ARE PARTS AVAILABLE TO REFURBISH ONE. NOW BEFORE WE GET INTO ALL THAT, THERE ARE TWO TERMS THAT GO ALONG WITH A PUMP, AND THAT IS FLOW AND PRESSURE, AND THEY NEED TO BE EXPLAINED. AN ENGINE'S OIL PRESSURE IS INFLUENCED BY THE TOLERANCES OF THE MAINS AND ROD BEARINGS, WITH
THE CLEARANCE OF EACH OF THESE DIRECTLY EFFECTING THE AMOUNT OF WHAT'S CALLED BLEED OFF. THAT IS WHERE OIL IS PUSHED OUT OF EACH SIDE OF THE BEARING. ON MORE PERFORMANCE AND HIGH MILED ENGINES THE CLEARANCE IS GREATER ALLOWING THE OIL TO ESCAPE MORE EASY. THE RESULT, LESS OIL IS PUSHED THROUGH THE SYSTEM TO LUBRICATE PARTS CORRECTLY.
SO TO INCREASE THE PRESSURE YOU HAVE TO INCREASE THE VOLUME OR FLOW. AND WITH THAT INCREASE IN VOLUME, WELL IT CAN COMPENSATE FOR THE BLEED OFF OF THE BEARINGS. SO LETS GET BACK TO JUST BUILDING OUR PUMP. NOW THIS THING COME OUT OF THAT OLD SMALL BLOCK CHEVY THAT HAD A BOATLOAD OF MILES ON IT, BUT IT HAD DECENT OIL PRESSURE. SO IT OUGHT TO BE A GOOD CANDIDATE FOR A REPAIR. FIRST OFF YOU WANT TO WIGGLE OUT THIS PICK UP TUBE. FOLLOW THAT UP BY REMOVING THE FOUR BOLTS ON THE TOP. NOW WE HAVE TO DRIVE THIS LITTLE PIN OUT SO THAT WE CAN REMOVE THE VALVE AND SPRING.
THIS LITTLE VALVE CAN BE TRICKY TO GET OUT, BUT A PICK TOOL MADE IT EASIER. ONE MORE THING, JUST SIMPLY SLIDE THE TWO GEARS OUT, AND THEN THIS SLIMY LITTLE DUDE CAN GO TO THE PARTS WASHER.
WE HAVE TO CLEAN THESE PARTS THOROUGHLY BECAUSE WE HAVE TO DO AN INSPECTION TO MAKE SURE IT'S WORTH USING. WITH EVERYTHING ALL CLEAN, WE CAN DO THAT INSPECTION LIKE WE HAD MENTIONED. HERE IN THE BOTTOM OF THE CASE WE HAVE A SMALL AMOUNT OF WEAR BUT NOTHING EXCESSIVE. AND HERE ON THE END CAP IT'S THE SAME AS. HERE'S THE END CAP OFF OF AN OLD OIL PUMP THAT'S CHEWED UP A PIECE OF METAL THAT I WANT TO SHOW YOU. YOU CAN SEE THIS RING SHAPE SCORING AND THAT'S WHAT YOU DON'T WANT TO SEE. IF YOU'VE GOT ANYTHING LIKE THAT, THE PUMP CASE IS JUNK.
BEFORE WE CAN START THE FINAL ASSEMBLY, WELL I'VE GOT TO CLEAN UP THE MATING SURFACES. SO TO DO THAT WE'LL USE SOME SAND PAPER, THIS COOL PIECE OF GLASS, AND SOME WD 40. THE FLAT SURFACE OF THE GLASS WILL HELP ENSURE THAT YOU'VE SUCCESSFULLY LEVELED THE MATING SURFACES OF THE PUMP OUT. SOME BRAKE CLEANER AND THEN BLOWING IT OFF WITH AIR WILL REMOVE ANY OF THE OLD SANDING CRUD. WITH OUR HOUSING ALL CLEANED UP WE'RE READY TO START INSTALLING THE NEW COMPONENTS. WE GOT A KIT FROM MELING. IT COMES WITH BOTH OF THE GEARS, TWO OPTIONS FOR SPRINGS, A VALVE, A LITTLE PLASTIC COLLAR FOR THE DRIVE, AND TWO PINS TO KEEP EVERYTHING IN PLACE. THE FIRST STEP DURING ASSEMBLY YOU WANT TO SLIDE THE SHAFT INTO THE BORE JUST TO SEE IF YOU HAVE ANY WEAR THERE. NOPE, WE'RE IN GOOD SHAPE.
THEN YOU DROP IN THE NEXT GEAR. THEN USING A FEELER GAUGE YOU WANT TO CHECK THE SIDE CLEARANCE BETWEEN THE GEAR TOOTH AND THE
SIDE WALL OF THE CASE. YOU'RE LOOKING FOR NOTHING MORE THAN FOUR THOUSANDTHS. NOW TO ASSEMBLE YOUR END CAP, YOU WANT TO SLIDE THE PISTON INTO PLACE, FOLLOWED BY THE SPRING. NOW YOU HAVE TWO DIFFERENT OPTIONS. YOU CAN USE THIS GREEN SPRING, WHICH IS RECOMMENDED FOR THE 302, 350, AND 409 WITH HIGH PERFORMANCE APPLICATIONS, OR A '62 TO '79 CORVETTE. ALL THE OTHER ONES, WELL THEY'D USE THIS PURPLE SPRING.
THE NEXT THING TO DO IS INSTALL A NEW PICK UP SCREEN.
YOU DON'T WANT TO USE AN OLD BECAUSE JUST IN CASE IT'S GOT SOME KIND OF CONTAMINANTS OR ANYTHING LIKE THAT IN IT. THEN SUBMERGE THIS THING IN SOME OIL RIGHT BEFORE YOU INSTALL IT. CYCLE IT A FEW TIMES, YOU'RE READY TO GO.
(JOE)>> IF YOU'RE RUNNING ETHANOL BLENDED FUEL IN YOUR CARBURETED HOT ROD OR RACE ENGINE, HERE'S HOW
YOU CAN PROTECT IT AGAINST ETHANOL CORROSION AND INDUCTION DEPOSITS.
IT'S CARB DEFENDER FUEL ADDITIVE FROM THE FOLKS AT DRIVEN RACING OIL. IT PREVENTS CORROSION CAUSED BY ETHANOL BLENDED GASOLINE AND THE MOISTURE IT ATTRACTS CLEANS DEPOSITS AND RESTORES LOST POWER. PLUS IT'LL PRESERVE YOUR FUEL DURING THE OFF SEASON. IT'S ALSO GREAT FOR SMALL ENGINES. EVERYTHING FROM ATV'S TO WEED EATERS.
IT COMES IN A BOX OF SIX FOR ABOUT $60 BUCKS.
(TOMMY)>> THIS NEW PRODUCT IS A BIG BORE, BUT IN A GOOD KIND OF WAY. IT'S HOLLEY'S NEW 105 MILLIMETER THROTTLE BODY FOR HIGH PERFORMANCE LS ENGINES. THEY ALSO HAVE A 95 MILLIMETER VERSION WITH
LOW RPM DRIVE FRIENDLY TAPERS. YOU GET THE FEATURES LIKE THE IDLE BLEED ADJUSTMENTS, THIS TPS CLOCKER, AND THIS COOL BLACK ANODIZED FINISH. IF YOU'VE GOT A TURBO, BIG CAM, OR EVEN A BLOWER, THIS BIG MOUTH CAN HANDLE IT.
(JOE)>> IF YOUR MUSCLE MACHINE SEES DOUBLE DUTY AS A STREET CAR AND RACER, WELL FLOWTECH'S WARLOCK BYPASS RACING MUFFLER WILL LET YOU HAVE IT BOTH WAYS.
IT'S GOT A THREE INCH INLET AND OUTLET, PLUS A LOW RESTRICTIVE HIGH FLOW DESIGN TO GIVE YOU PLENTY OF POWER AND SOUND FOR THE STREET. THEN AT THE STRIP JUST REMOVE THIS FLOW
INTENSIFIER CAP FOR UNBELIEVABLE STRAIGHT THROUGH POWER. IT'S GOT A FULLY WELDED 16 GAUGE CASE WITH NO GLASS
OR SEAMS TO BLOW OUT, AND IT SHOULDN'T BLOW OUT YOUR BUDGET WITH A PRICE OF ABOUT $90 DOLLARS. WELL WE'VE EXHAUSTED OUR TIME FOR THIS WEEK, WE'LL SEE YOU NEXT TIME!
Show Full Transcript
BASICALLY BIG AIR PUMPS THAT REQUIRE SEVERAL VITAL FLUIDS TO STAY ALIVE. TODAY ON DETROIT MUSCLE WE'LL SHOW YOU THREE LOW BUCK PUMP REBUILDS THAT'LL KEEP YOUR RIDE ALIVE AND KICKING.
(JOE)>> IT DOESN'T MATTER WHAT KIND OF STREET
MACHINE YOU'RE RUNNING, THEY ALL NEED FLUIDS TO STAY ALIVE, AND SOME KIND OF PUMP TO MOVE THAT FLUID
WHERE IT NEEDS TO BE. WELL TODAY ON DETROIT MUSCLE WE'RE GONNA SHOW YOU SOME BUDGET MINDED METHODS TO MAKE SURE YOUR RIDE STAYS PROPERLY PUMPED UP. OIL, GASOLINE, WATER, ALL FLUIDS NEED PUMPS, WHICH CAN WEAR OUT. WE'RE GONNA SHOW YOU HOW TO REBUILD ALL THREE.
(TOMMY)>> FIRST OFF LETS TALK ABOUT FUEL. LET'S SAY YOU'VE GOT A MILDLY HOPPED UP SMALL BLOCK CHEVY. SO YOU'RE PROBABLY GONNA NEED A FUEL PUMP LIKE THIS ONE. THIS IS REFERRED TO THE RED PUMP THAT'S OFFERED BY HOLLEY. AND IT PUMPS OUT 97 GALLONS PER HOUR AND IT COST A LITTLE OVER $100 BUCKS IF YOU BOUGHT ONE NEW. THIS ELECTRIC PUMP HAS A BIGGER BROTHER THAT'S OFTEN REFERRED TO AS THE BLUE PUMP. NOW IT'S MORE STREET/STRIP MINDED.
IT HAS A GALLONS PER HOUR RATING AT 110.
(JOE)>> IF THE MOTOR IN YOUR FUEL PUMP HAS GONE OUT, WELL CHANCES ARE YOU NEED TO REPLACE IT. BUT IF IT'S JUST SPUTTER OR LOSING A LITTLE POWER ON ACCELERATION, HERE'S WHAT YOU NEED TO DO
BEFORE YOU REMOVE THE PUMP FOR REPAIRS. FIRST MAKE SURE YOU'VE GOT A 12 VOLT SUPPLY OF ENERGY. MAKE SURE THE FUEL LINES AREN'T OBSTRUCTED BY BLOWING THEM OUT WITH SOME AIR.
AND ALSO MAKE SURE YOU HAVE A FREE FLOWING FUEL FILTER.
(TOMMY)>> IF IT TURNS OUT IT'S TIME TO SERVICE THE MECHANICAL SIDE OF YOUR FUEL PUMP, WELL HOLLEY OFFERS A COUPLE OF KITS TO DO THAT. ONE IS THE CHECK VALVE KIT AND THE OTHER IS THE ROTOR AND VEIN KIT. BOTH OF THESE COST ABOUT $30 BUCKS TOGETHER.
(JOE)>> OKAY, TO GET US GOING WE WANT TO FIRST REMOVE THESE BOLTS AND THE BOTTOM PLATE.
HERE'S WHERE YOU PUT YOUR CELL PHONE CAMERA TO GOOD USE. THAT WAY YOU'LL KNOW THE EXACT POSITION OF THE PARTS WHEN IT'S TIME TO PUT THEM BACK TOGETHER, INCLUDING THE SCREEN WHICH COMES OUT NOW. THEN THE ROTOR VEINS AND ROTOR. NEXT REMOVE THE PRESSURE RELIEF SCREW AND RELIEF PLUNGER. ALRIGHT NEXT, BEFORE ANYTHING ELSE, WE'RE GONNA GIVE THIS HOUSING A LITTLE CLEAN UP JOB WITH SOME SPRAY ON CARB CLEANER. WHATEVER YOU DO DON'T EVER SUBMERGE ONE OF THESE ELECTRIC PUMPS IN ANYTHING OR YOU COULD DAMAGE THE MOTOR. NOW OUR HOUSING LOOKS PRETTY CLEAN BUT OFT TIMES HERE ON THE INLET SIDE PIECE OF RUBBER OR TEFLON CAN GET LODGED IN HERE AND DISRUPT THE FLOW. WE'RE ABOUT READY TO INSTALL OUR NEW PARTS, BUT
FIRST WE WANT TO MAKE SURE THIS NEW PLUNGER MOVES FREELY INSIDE THE HOUSING.
IF IT DIDN'T WE'D HAVE TO DRESS IT UP WITH AN EMERY CLOTH. SO WE CAN GO AHEAD AND DROP THIS LITTLE RUBBER SEAT IN THE END OF OUR PLUNGER.
IN GOES THE PLUNGER, NEW SPRING AND ORING.
NOW I CAN DROP THE SCREEN IN PLACE JUST LIKE IN THE PHOTO. NEW ROTOR, AND THE VEINS. AND THE FINAL STEP IS TO SWAP OUT THE HOUSING GASKET.
TORQUE THE BOLTS TO ABOUT 50 INCH POUNDS. AND THAT'S ALL THERE IS TO IT AND THE BEST PART IS YOU CAN SAVE CLOSE TO $100 BUCKS VERSUS THE COST OF A NEW PUMP. WHAT DO YOU THINK?
(TOMMY)>> WELL YOU KNOW DOING IT YOURSELF ALWAYS HELP IN PUMPING YOUR EGO. HE DOESN'T NEED HELP WITH THAT.
(ANNOUNCER)>> WELL NOW THAT YOU'VE GOT THE FUEL TAKEN CARE OF, YOU'VE GOT TO KEEP THAT THING COOL. STICK AROUND AND WE'LL GO OVER WATER PUMP RECONSTRUCTION. PLUS FIND OUT WHAT PUTS THE LEADER IN SYNTHETIC OIL TECH OUT IN FRONT.
(TOMMY)>> NOT MANY OF US WOULD BOTHER WITH
REBUILDING A MECHANICAL WATER PUMP WHENEVER YOU CAN JUST STROLL INTO JUST ANY OLE PARTS STORE AND BUY A REPLACEMENT PART OFF THE SHELF FOR ABOUT $30 BUCKS. BUT LETS SAY YOU'VE GOT A NUMBERS MATCHING CAR AND YOU'RE TRYING TO KEEP IT ALL ORIGINAL, OR SOMETHING LIKE THIS ALUMINUM 427 PERFORMANCE PUMP. IT'S WORTH THE REBUILD.
THIS THING SELLS FOR ABOUT $160 BUCKS NEW AND YOU CAN SAVE YOURSELF ABOUT $100 BUCKS WITH A REBUILD. THIS WEEP HOLE IS DESIGNED TO LET THE BEARING AND LUBRICANT BREATHE. WITHOUT THIS HOLE, THE OIL WOULD BE FORCED PAST THE SEAL AND ENTER INTO THE COOLING SYSTEM. THIS ONE'S BEEN LEAKING COOLANT, WHICH CAN BE CAUSED BY HIGH MILES, AGE, OR EVEN TOO MUCH BELT TENSION. EITHER WAY, IT WOULD BE JUST A MATTER OF TIME BEFORE WE HAD PUMP FAILURE. WE'RE GONNA START TEARDOWN BY REMOVING THIS HOSE NIPPLE. THEN WE'LL SNATCH OUT THESE SIX BOLTS TO REMOVE THE BACK COVER. WITH THE COVER REMOVED YOU CAN LOOK AT THE IMPELLER AND IT'LL TELL YOU WHETHER OR NOT IT'S A STANDARD OR REVERSE ROTATION. WITH WATER PUMPS YOU HAVE TWO DIFFERENT CLASSIFICATIONS. YOU HAVE STANDARD ROTATION, WHICH IS CLOCKWISE, AND REVERSE ROTATION, WHICH IS COUNTER CLOCKWISE. AND BOTH OF THESE HAVE TWO DIFFERENT IMPELLERS. IF YOU PUT THE WRONG ONE FOR YOUR SETUP, WELL YOU'RE GONNA RUN INTO COOLING PROBLEMS. NEXT YOU NEED A PRESS AND A BOLT TO PUSH THIS SHAFT OUT OF THE HUB. AFTER THAT A DEEP WELL SOCKET CAN SLOWLY PUSH THE IMPELLER AND THE SHAFT ASSEMBLY OUT OF THE HOUSING. WITH OUR HOUSING ALL EMPTY, WE'RE GONNA TOSS IT
IN THE BLASTER FOR A LITTLE CLEAN UP WORK.
THIS IS WHEN YOU CAN REMOVE ALL THAT OLD GASKET MATERIAL IN ADDITION TO CHECKING THE HOUSING FOR CRACKS. A WIRE BRUSH AND SOME SOLVENT IS SLOWER BUT ALSO EFFECTIVE.
(JOE)>> WELL TOMMY WHILE I WAS OUT GETTING A HAIRCUT, GUESS WHAT ELSE I GOT, REBUILD KIT.
(TOMMY)>> WELL I'LL TELL YOU, I HOPE THAT REBUILD KIT GOES BETTER THAN HIS HAIR CUT.
(JOE)>> GET OUT OF HERE. THIS REBUILD KIT, SERIOUS, COMES FROM A COMPANY CALLED ZIP CORVETTE PRODUCTS, AND INCLUDES EVERYTHING FROM A NEW SHAFT, IMPELLER, FRONT HUB, BEARINGS, EVERYTHING AND ANYTHING WE NEED TO REBUILD THIS THING GOOD AS NEW. NOW FIRST THING I'M GONNA DO THOUGH IS SPRAY THE INSIDE HERE WITH SOME WD 40 TO PREVENT GALLING. THE LONGER END OF THE SHAFT IS GROOVED, AND THAT'S THE PART THAT GETS PRESSED INTO THE HOUSING.
WHEN IT'S INSTALLED THE BEARING RACE PART SHOULD BE FLUSH WITH THE HOUSING. ON THE OTHER SIDE A SOCKET WILL PUSH THE NEW SEAL OVER THE NEW SHAFT.
THEN YOU CAN SWITCH TO A BIGGER SOCKET TO GET IT BOTTOMED OUT AGAINST THE HOUSING FLANGE. NEXT TO GO ON IS THE FAN HUB. IN THE PRESS POSITION THE WATER PUMP ASSEMBLY SO THE
SHAFT CAN BE PRESSED INTO THE HUB. MEASURING FROM THE FRONT OF THE HUB TO THE INLET, THE DISTANCE SHOULD BE FIVE AND FIVEEIGHTHS.
THEN PRESS THE NEW IMPELLER OVER THE SHAFT, MAKING SURE THE BLADES DON'T TOUCH THE HOUSING. USING A FEELER GAUGE, YOU NEED FROM 10 TO 13
THOUSANDTHS CLEARANCE BETWEEN THE IMPELLER BLADES AND HOUSING. THEN IT'S SIMPLY REPLACE THE COVER AND MAKE DOUBLE SURE THE SHAFT TURNS FREELY. OKAY, THAT ONLY TOOK ABOUT AN HOUR'S WORTH OF WORK. NOW YOU'RE READY FOR PAINT IF THAT'S IN YOUR PLANS. BUT IN ANY EVEN YOU'VE GOT AN ORIGINAL LOOKING,
BETTER PERFORMING WATER PUMP, NOT BAD.
(ANNOUNCER)>> STILL AHEAD, WE'VE GOT THE OIL PUMP RESCUE WE'VE BEEN PROMISING. AND SPEAKING OF OIL WE'LL ALSO GET INTO THE SCIENCE OF HIGH END SYNTHETIC LUBRICANTS, STICK AROUND!
(JOE)>> WELL SO FAR WE'VE REBUILT A FUEL PUMP AND MECHANICAL WATER PUMP. I GUESS AN OIL PUMP'S NEXT. BUT FIRST WE WANT TO TAKE A CLOSER LOOK AT WHAT RUNS
THROUGH THAT OIL PUMP.
SINCE 1972, SYNTHETIC OIL USE HAS GROWN LIKE CRAZY. NOW WHILE MOST BRANDS MAKE ENGINES RUN SMOOTHER AND COOLER, HOW COULD ONE BOAST SUPERIOR PROTECTION? WELL WE'RE GOING DOWN TO HOUSTON TO FIND OUT. THIS IS WHERE OUR STORY BEGINS, THE TANK FARM AT ROYAL PURPLE'S HEADQUARTERS NEAR HOUSTON. EACH OF THESE 56 CONTAINERS HOLDS THOUSANDS OF GALLONS OF BASE OIL READY TO TRAVEL THROUGH A MAZE OF STAINLESS STEEL PIPES TO ONE OF MANY BLENDING TANKS INSIDE. HERE'S WHERE THE ADVANCED ADDITIVE TECHNOLOGY IS INTRODUCED. FORTIFYING THE BASE OIL AND CREATING ROYAL PURPLE'S NOW FAMOUS FILM STRENGTH. THIS WHOLE AREA IS DEDICATED TO INDUSTRIAL LUBRICANTS, USED TO KEEP CUSTOMER EQUIPMENT RUNNING AROUND THE COUNTRY AND BEYOND. AND BECAUSE OF INCREASED DEMAND, PRODUCTION CAPACITY WAS RECENTLY RAMPED UP 200 PERCENT.
(LEIGH)>> IF SOMEONE NEEDS OIL, IT'S A CRITICAL SITUATION. SO WE NEED TO BE ABLE TO TURN IT, OR SHIP IT SAME DAY, OR NEXT DAY.
(JOE)>> THE WHOLE IDEA OF PRODUCING SYNTHETIC OIL FOR INDUSTRY IS WHAT GOT ROYAL PURPLE OFF THE ROUND IN 1986. AND BEFORE TOO LONG SOMETHING VERY INTERESTING HAPPENED. A FEW OF THE INDUSTRIAL CUSTOMERS WERE ALSO PART TIME RACERS, AND THEY WANTED TO TRY A VERSION OF THE SYNTHETIC OIL IN THEIR OWN HIGH PERFORMANCE ENGINES. WELL GUESS WHAT, IT NOT ONLY REDUCED WEAR, IT ALSO MAXIMIZED HORSEPOWER AND TORQUE. IN A WAY IT WAS THE BEGINNING OF A NEW ERA. PRODUCING SUPER PREMIUM SYNTHETICS FOR CONSUMERS. AND THAT BRINGS US TO ANOTHER ROYAL PURPLE FACILITY WHERE THESE BOTTLES ARE READY TO BE FILLED WITH 10 W30.
(RANDY)>> A LOT OF PROCESSES, PROCEDURES GO IN PLACE HERE TO ALLOW US TO HIT
THE CAPACITY WE WANT. OBVIOUSLY WE WANT TO CONTINUE THAT GROWTH, KEEP PEOPLE PURCHASING THE ROYAL PURPLE BRANDS.
(JOE)>> AT THIS FACILITY ROYAL PURPLE PRODUCTS UNDERGO SOME OF THE MOST RIGOROUS
TESTING IN THE INDUSTRY.
MORE THAN 40 BEFORE THEY CAN GO OUT THE DOOR.
(WILLIE)>> ONCE IT'S BLENDED AND PUT INTO THE FINAL PACKAGE, WE ALSO DO TESTING ON THE PACKAGED PRODUCT ITSELF, JUST TO MAKE SURE THAT WHAT WENT INTO THAT PACKAGE IS WHAT WE SAID WE PUT INTO IT.
(JOE)>> IN THIS FOAM TEST AMY POURS ABOUT 200
MILLILITERS OF MOTOR OIL INTO A CYLINDER, WHICH GOES INTO A VAT OF 200 DEGREE WATER TO
SIMULATE ENGINE HEAT. AFTER 10 MINUTES SHE ATTACHES A HOLLOW TUBE TO WHAT'S CALLED A FOAM STONE, WHICH GOES DIRECTLY INTO THE OIL. THEN AN AIR HOSE IS CONNECTED TO AERATE THE OIL FOR FIVE MINUTES.
(AMY)>> ABOUT 20 MILLILITERS OF FOAM SITTING ON THE TOP OF THE OIL IS ACCEPTABLE. IF YOU'VE GOT A PROBLEM YOU'LL SEE FOAM COMING ALL THE WAY UP THE TUBE.
(JOE)>> WHAT'S MOST IMPORTANT IS HOW LONG IT TAKES THE OIL TO DISSIPATE AFTER AERATION STOPS. 12 SECONDS IS DEFINITELY A PASSING GRADE.
(AMY)>> THIS IS OUR SPECTROMETER.
(JOE)>> THEN ONTO THIS MACHINE, WHICH EXAMINES THE OIL'S CHEMISTRY.
(AMY)>> WE TEST IT FOR QUALITY CONTROL TO FIND OUT THAT THE ADDITIVE PACKAGE THAT WE INTEND TO
BE IN THERE IS IN THERE, AND ALSO THAT THERE'S NO CONTAMINANTS THAT WE DON'T WANT.
(JOE)>> FIRST A LITTLE KEROSENE IS MIXED WITH MOTOR OIL THAT'S DRAWN THROUGH A TUBE TO THE MACHINE. ARGON GAS IS INTRODUCED HERE TO CREATE A MIST.
(AMY)>> SO THE MIST GOES UP THROUGH A POWER SOURCE, WHICH EXCITES THE ELECTRONS IN THE OIL. AND AS THEY COME OUT OF THE POWER SOURCE THEY GIVE THAT ENERGY BACK, WHICH CREATES A PLASMA THAT'S 18,000 DEGREES FAHRENHEIT.
(JOE)>> AT THIS POINT A TECHNICIAN CAN OBSERVE THE COMPOSITION OF 22 DIFFERENT ELEMENTS FROM ZINC TO ALUMINUM. NOW IN HERE IS THE R&D DEPARTMENT. THIS IS WHERE ROYAL PURPLE FORMULAS OF THE FUTURE ARE BEING DEVELOPED TODAY. SOME OF THE STUFF IS SO TOP SECRET IN HERE THEY EVEN COVERED UP THE CABINETS.
THEY DID LET US EAVESDROP ON A DESTRUCTIVE TEST THOUGH TO SEE WHICH OIL BEST PREVENTS GALLING OR SCARRING ON A LITTLE CYLINDER OF HARDENED STEEL. THE COMPETITOR'S SYNTHETIC IS FIRST POURED INTO A LITTLE METAL CONTAINER. A WHEEL ROTATES IN THE OIL. AND USING WEIGHTS AND FULCRUM, EIGHT POUNDS OF PRESSURE IS APPLIED TO THE STEEL CYLINDER ON TOP. NEXT THE SAME EXACT DRILL USING ROYAL PURPLE OIL. EVERYTHING'S GOT TO BE CONSISTENT. THE RESULTS, ON THE LEFT THE OTHER SYNTHETIC ALLOWED THREE TIMES MORE DAMAGE TO ITS STEEL CYLINDER.
(MIKE)>> EVERYBODY HAS HEARD THAT YOU PUT OUR OIL IN A CAR, YOU GET BETTER FUEL ECONOMY. THIS IS ONE OF THE REASONS.
(JOE)>> LIKE TESTING AND RESEARCH, EMPLOYEE EDUCATION IS ONGOING HERE TOO. YOU SEE IT'S NOT ENOUGH TO KNOW YOUR PRODUCT PERFORMS BETTER, YOU'VE GOT TO KNOW WHY. THESE GUYS SEEM TO HAVE THE FORMULA FOR SUCCESS DIALED IN. GIVE THE CUSTOMER THE BEST BANG FOR HIS HARD EARNED BUCK, AND HE'LL GIVE YOU A PRICELESS PAYBACK CALLED BRAND LOYALTY.
(TOMMY)>> HEY Y'ALL, WE'RE CONTINUING DOWN THE PATH OF THE WORLD'S PUMPS, AND NOW WE'RE GONNA TALK ABOUT ONE OF THE MOST IMPORTANT ONES, AND THAT IS THE OIL PUMP. OFTEN TIMES PEOPLE JUST THROW THE OLD ONE AWAY, BUT THERE ARE PARTS AVAILABLE TO REFURBISH ONE. NOW BEFORE WE GET INTO ALL THAT, THERE ARE TWO TERMS THAT GO ALONG WITH A PUMP, AND THAT IS FLOW AND PRESSURE, AND THEY NEED TO BE EXPLAINED. AN ENGINE'S OIL PRESSURE IS INFLUENCED BY THE TOLERANCES OF THE MAINS AND ROD BEARINGS, WITH
THE CLEARANCE OF EACH OF THESE DIRECTLY EFFECTING THE AMOUNT OF WHAT'S CALLED BLEED OFF. THAT IS WHERE OIL IS PUSHED OUT OF EACH SIDE OF THE BEARING. ON MORE PERFORMANCE AND HIGH MILED ENGINES THE CLEARANCE IS GREATER ALLOWING THE OIL TO ESCAPE MORE EASY. THE RESULT, LESS OIL IS PUSHED THROUGH THE SYSTEM TO LUBRICATE PARTS CORRECTLY.
SO TO INCREASE THE PRESSURE YOU HAVE TO INCREASE THE VOLUME OR FLOW. AND WITH THAT INCREASE IN VOLUME, WELL IT CAN COMPENSATE FOR THE BLEED OFF OF THE BEARINGS. SO LETS GET BACK TO JUST BUILDING OUR PUMP. NOW THIS THING COME OUT OF THAT OLD SMALL BLOCK CHEVY THAT HAD A BOATLOAD OF MILES ON IT, BUT IT HAD DECENT OIL PRESSURE. SO IT OUGHT TO BE A GOOD CANDIDATE FOR A REPAIR. FIRST OFF YOU WANT TO WIGGLE OUT THIS PICK UP TUBE. FOLLOW THAT UP BY REMOVING THE FOUR BOLTS ON THE TOP. NOW WE HAVE TO DRIVE THIS LITTLE PIN OUT SO THAT WE CAN REMOVE THE VALVE AND SPRING.
THIS LITTLE VALVE CAN BE TRICKY TO GET OUT, BUT A PICK TOOL MADE IT EASIER. ONE MORE THING, JUST SIMPLY SLIDE THE TWO GEARS OUT, AND THEN THIS SLIMY LITTLE DUDE CAN GO TO THE PARTS WASHER.
WE HAVE TO CLEAN THESE PARTS THOROUGHLY BECAUSE WE HAVE TO DO AN INSPECTION TO MAKE SURE IT'S WORTH USING. WITH EVERYTHING ALL CLEAN, WE CAN DO THAT INSPECTION LIKE WE HAD MENTIONED. HERE IN THE BOTTOM OF THE CASE WE HAVE A SMALL AMOUNT OF WEAR BUT NOTHING EXCESSIVE. AND HERE ON THE END CAP IT'S THE SAME AS. HERE'S THE END CAP OFF OF AN OLD OIL PUMP THAT'S CHEWED UP A PIECE OF METAL THAT I WANT TO SHOW YOU. YOU CAN SEE THIS RING SHAPE SCORING AND THAT'S WHAT YOU DON'T WANT TO SEE. IF YOU'VE GOT ANYTHING LIKE THAT, THE PUMP CASE IS JUNK.
BEFORE WE CAN START THE FINAL ASSEMBLY, WELL I'VE GOT TO CLEAN UP THE MATING SURFACES. SO TO DO THAT WE'LL USE SOME SAND PAPER, THIS COOL PIECE OF GLASS, AND SOME WD 40. THE FLAT SURFACE OF THE GLASS WILL HELP ENSURE THAT YOU'VE SUCCESSFULLY LEVELED THE MATING SURFACES OF THE PUMP OUT. SOME BRAKE CLEANER AND THEN BLOWING IT OFF WITH AIR WILL REMOVE ANY OF THE OLD SANDING CRUD. WITH OUR HOUSING ALL CLEANED UP WE'RE READY TO START INSTALLING THE NEW COMPONENTS. WE GOT A KIT FROM MELING. IT COMES WITH BOTH OF THE GEARS, TWO OPTIONS FOR SPRINGS, A VALVE, A LITTLE PLASTIC COLLAR FOR THE DRIVE, AND TWO PINS TO KEEP EVERYTHING IN PLACE. THE FIRST STEP DURING ASSEMBLY YOU WANT TO SLIDE THE SHAFT INTO THE BORE JUST TO SEE IF YOU HAVE ANY WEAR THERE. NOPE, WE'RE IN GOOD SHAPE.
THEN YOU DROP IN THE NEXT GEAR. THEN USING A FEELER GAUGE YOU WANT TO CHECK THE SIDE CLEARANCE BETWEEN THE GEAR TOOTH AND THE
SIDE WALL OF THE CASE. YOU'RE LOOKING FOR NOTHING MORE THAN FOUR THOUSANDTHS. NOW TO ASSEMBLE YOUR END CAP, YOU WANT TO SLIDE THE PISTON INTO PLACE, FOLLOWED BY THE SPRING. NOW YOU HAVE TWO DIFFERENT OPTIONS. YOU CAN USE THIS GREEN SPRING, WHICH IS RECOMMENDED FOR THE 302, 350, AND 409 WITH HIGH PERFORMANCE APPLICATIONS, OR A '62 TO '79 CORVETTE. ALL THE OTHER ONES, WELL THEY'D USE THIS PURPLE SPRING.
THE NEXT THING TO DO IS INSTALL A NEW PICK UP SCREEN.
YOU DON'T WANT TO USE AN OLD BECAUSE JUST IN CASE IT'S GOT SOME KIND OF CONTAMINANTS OR ANYTHING LIKE THAT IN IT. THEN SUBMERGE THIS THING IN SOME OIL RIGHT BEFORE YOU INSTALL IT. CYCLE IT A FEW TIMES, YOU'RE READY TO GO.
(JOE)>> IF YOU'RE RUNNING ETHANOL BLENDED FUEL IN YOUR CARBURETED HOT ROD OR RACE ENGINE, HERE'S HOW
YOU CAN PROTECT IT AGAINST ETHANOL CORROSION AND INDUCTION DEPOSITS.
IT'S CARB DEFENDER FUEL ADDITIVE FROM THE FOLKS AT DRIVEN RACING OIL. IT PREVENTS CORROSION CAUSED BY ETHANOL BLENDED GASOLINE AND THE MOISTURE IT ATTRACTS CLEANS DEPOSITS AND RESTORES LOST POWER. PLUS IT'LL PRESERVE YOUR FUEL DURING THE OFF SEASON. IT'S ALSO GREAT FOR SMALL ENGINES. EVERYTHING FROM ATV'S TO WEED EATERS.
IT COMES IN A BOX OF SIX FOR ABOUT $60 BUCKS.
(TOMMY)>> THIS NEW PRODUCT IS A BIG BORE, BUT IN A GOOD KIND OF WAY. IT'S HOLLEY'S NEW 105 MILLIMETER THROTTLE BODY FOR HIGH PERFORMANCE LS ENGINES. THEY ALSO HAVE A 95 MILLIMETER VERSION WITH
LOW RPM DRIVE FRIENDLY TAPERS. YOU GET THE FEATURES LIKE THE IDLE BLEED ADJUSTMENTS, THIS TPS CLOCKER, AND THIS COOL BLACK ANODIZED FINISH. IF YOU'VE GOT A TURBO, BIG CAM, OR EVEN A BLOWER, THIS BIG MOUTH CAN HANDLE IT.
(JOE)>> IF YOUR MUSCLE MACHINE SEES DOUBLE DUTY AS A STREET CAR AND RACER, WELL FLOWTECH'S WARLOCK BYPASS RACING MUFFLER WILL LET YOU HAVE IT BOTH WAYS.
IT'S GOT A THREE INCH INLET AND OUTLET, PLUS A LOW RESTRICTIVE HIGH FLOW DESIGN TO GIVE YOU PLENTY OF POWER AND SOUND FOR THE STREET. THEN AT THE STRIP JUST REMOVE THIS FLOW
INTENSIFIER CAP FOR UNBELIEVABLE STRAIGHT THROUGH POWER. IT'S GOT A FULLY WELDED 16 GAUGE CASE WITH NO GLASS
OR SEAMS TO BLOW OUT, AND IT SHOULDN'T BLOW OUT YOUR BUDGET WITH A PRICE OF ABOUT $90 DOLLARS. WELL WE'VE EXHAUSTED OUR TIME FOR THIS WEEK, WE'LL SEE YOU NEXT TIME!