XOR - Xtreme Off-Road Builds
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Edwards Ironworkers
55 TON EDWARDS IRONWORKER with Hydraulic Accessory Pack option; 10 Ton Bender, 15 Ton Horizontal press,Tubing Roller and 40 Ton Shop Press.
ESAB
The Official Welding and Cutting Supplier of Xtreme Off Road, featuring the all-new Rebel 215 Multi-Process Welder
ESAB
Rebel EMP 215ic for MIG/TIG/Stick
Essentially Off-Road
The 1410 Heavy Duty Driveshaft Kit includes the slip, weld yoke, and weld stud(1.5" Spline). The weld yoke and weld stud will work with 2.25" .120 wall tubing for 2.5" .250 wall tubing.
The Industrial Depot
The Industrial Depot - Fasteners, Hardware, and Shop Supplies
Video Transcript
(ANNOUNCER)>> A BROKEN
DRIVESHAFT CAN BRING YOUR
DAY ON THE TRAIL TO A HALT IN AN INSTANT. TODAY ON XTREME OFF ROAD WE SHOW YOU HOW TO SETUP YOUR DRIVELINE RIGHT, KEEPING YOUR RIG ON THE ROCKS AND OUT OF THE SHOP. PLUS WE'LL HELP ROCK BOUNCER WILL STEWART LAY DOWN SOME SICK WELDS ON THIS WEEK'S DRIVEWAY RESCUE.
(IAN)>> TODAY WE'RE GONNA TAKE A STEP BACK AND TAKE A LOOK AT PROBABLY ONE OF THE MOST IMPORTANT PARTS OF YOUR RIG. IT'S THE CONNECTION BETWEEN THE TRANSFER CASE AND THE AXLES, AND IT'S PROBABLY THE MOST UNPROTECTED PART OF YOUR DRIVETRAIN. OBVIOUSLY WE'RE TALKING ABOUT THE DRIVESHAFT.
NOW EVERY TRAIL IN THE COUNTRY HAS THAT ONE ROCK THAT'S CLAIMED QUITE A FEW DRIVESHAFTS FROM MANY DIFFERENT TYPES OF RIGS. NOW THERE IS NO WAY TO BUILD A 100 PERCENT INDESTRUCTIBLE DRIVESHAFT, BUT WITH A LITTLE KNOWLEDGE AND A LITTLE PLANNING YOU CAN COME UP WITH THE BEST DRIVESHAFT FOR YOUR APPLICATION, AND IT STARTS BY UNDERSTANDING THE DIFFERENT TYPES OF DRIVESHAFTS OUT THERE. IN THE WORLD OF OFF ROADING THERE ARE THREE POPULAR TYPES OF DRIVESHAFTS. THE FIRST IS A SOLID SHAFT. A PIECE OF TUBING, UJOINTS AT EITHER END, AND A SLIP YOKE THAT SLIDES IN AND OUT ON THE TRANSFER CASE OUTPUT SHAFT. NOW THE REASON IT SLIDES IN AND OUT ON THAT SHAFT IS BECAUSE AS THE AXLE MOVES UP AND DOWN THE DRIVESHAFT MUST ADJUST TO THE DIFFERENCE IN LENGTH THE PROBLEM WITH THAT SETUP IS AS YOU ADD MORE SUSPENSION TRAVEL TO THE VEHICLE THERE IS A CHANCE THAT THE SLIP YOKE CAN PULL RIGHT OUT OF THE TRANSFER CASE, LEAVING YOU DEAD ON THE TRAIL. WE USUALLY ELIMINATE THAT SLIP YOKE AND EXCHANGE IT FOR THIS TYPE OF DRIVESHAFT. IT'S A FIXED AT EITHER END, UJOINTS THAT ARE ATTACHED TO THE TRANSFER CASE AND TO THE AXLE. THE SLIP IN THE SYSTEM IS NOW BUILT INTO THE DRIVESHAFT AND A YOKE WITH A BUNCH OF BEEFY SPLINES. WITH A FIXED SHAFT THERE'S USUALLY TWO DIFFERENT TYPES, UJOINTS AT BOTH ENDS OR ONE END WILL HAVE A C/V, OR CONSTANT VELOCITY JOINT SETUP. NOW THIS MAY LOOK BIG, BEEFY, AND STRONG BUT IT'S ACTUALLY NOT THERE FOR STRENGTH. IT'S THERE TO ELIMINATE VIBRATION IN THE SYSTEM. WHEN YOU'RE LOOKING FOR STRENGTH NOTHING BEATS UJOINTS AT EITHER END. ALL YOU HAVE TO DECIDE THEN IS WHAT KIND OF UJOINTS.
CONSIDERING HOW IMPORTANT THE UJOINT IS, IT'S ACTUALLY VERY SIMPLE. IT'S ONLY MADE UP OF A FEW KEY COMPONENTS. THE BODY OF THE UJOINT IS REFERRED TO AS THE CROSS, AND AT EACH END OF THAT CROSS IS A UJOINT CAP. INSIDE THE UJOINT CAP ARE NEEDLE BEARINGS. NOW THOSE NEEDLE BEARINGS ALLOW THE CAP TO PIVOT ON THE BODY OF THE UJOINT AS THE SUSPENSION CYCLES.
TO GREASE THE NEEDLE BEARINGS THERE'S A GREASE
FITTING THAT WILL ALLOW THE GREASE TO TRAVEL THROUGH GREASE GALLERIES THAT ARE DRILLED THROUGH THE CROSS TO LUBRICATE THE JOINT, AND THAT IS HOW YOU SERVICE IT WHEN IT'S IN THE VEHICLE. NOW MOST COMMONLY UJOINTS ARE REFERRED TO BY A NUMERICAL NUMBER REFERRING TO ITS SIZE, AND JUST LIKE THE SPORT OF OFF ROADING, AS ITS GROWN SO HAD THE SIZE OF OUR UJOINTS. A 1310 SERIES JOINT USED TO BE PRETTY COMMON PLACE OFF ROAD AND IT'S STILL ONE OF THE MOST COMMONLY USED OEM UJOINTS OUT THERE, BUT ITS THREE POINT TWONINE INCH CROSS AND CAP THAT'S JUST OVER ONE INCH MEANS THAT IT'S JUST NOT STRONG ENOUGH FOR SERIOUS OFF ROAD ABUSE. THE NEXT STEP UP IS A 1330 SERIES JOINTS. THE CAP IS THE SAME AS THE 1310, BUT THE CROSS HAS NOW GROWN. IT'S NOW THREE POINT SIXTWOTWO INCHES ACROSS. YOU'LL FIND THESE USUALLY IN THE BACK OF HALF TON PICK UP TRUCKS SPINNING DANA 44 OR 10 INCH
RING GEAR AXLES. PROBABLY THE MOST COMMON UJOINT THAT YOU'RE GONNA SEE US USE IN OFF ROADING IS THE 1350 JOINT. NOW THIS JOINT IS THREE POINT SIXTWOTWO INCHES ACROSS AND THE CAPS ARE NOW ONE POINT ONEEIGHTEIGHT INCHES. THE 1350 IS COMMONLY USED IN ONE TON AND THREE QUARTER TON TRUCKS.
IT'S EASY TO FIND IF YOU EVER NEED TO REPAIR YOUR VEHICLE IN THE MIDDLE OF NOWHERE, AND IT'S USUALLY
THE GOTO JOINT FOR MOST DRIVESHAFTS HERE IN THE XTREME OFF ROAD SHOP. NOW WITH SPORTS LIKE ROCK BOUNCING AND ROCK RACING GROWING IN POPULARITY, WELL THE 1350 JOINT JUST WASN'T ENOUGH, AND THAT IS WHERE TWO JOINTS HAVE BECOME MORE COMMONLY FOUND, THE 1410 AND THE 1480. YOU CAN SEE THAT THESE JOINTS ARE MASSIVE WHEN YOU COMPARE THEM TO THE SMALL LITTLE 1310 JOINT. THE 1410 IS NOW FOUR POINT ONEEIGHTEIGHT INCHES ACROSS AND THE CAP IS ONE POINT ONEEIGHT INCHES, SAME AS THE 1350.
THE 1480 IS EVEN BIGGER AT JUST OVER FOUR AND A QUARTER INCHES WIDE, AND THE CAPS ARE ONE POINT THREESEVENFIVE INCHES. THIS IS POSSIBLY THE STRONGEST UJOINT YOU'RE GONNA BE ABLE TO FIT IN YOUR RIG. THE REASON THESE JOINTS GET SO STRONG IS NO ONLY BECAUSE THE SIZE OF THE CROSS GROWS, THEREFORE GIVING YOU MORE SURFACE AREA AND MORE STRENGTH. WHEN YOU STRETCH THE CAPS FURTHER OUT THE DRIVESHAFT CAN OPERATE AT MORE SEVERE ANGLES BEFORE THE JOINT
COMES INTO A BIND, AND THAT IS WHY THE LARGER JOINTS HAVE BECOME MORE POPULAR.
NOW JUST BECAUSE IT'S A BIG JOINT DOESN'T MEAN IT CAN'T FAIL.
YOU PUT ENOUGH HORSEPOWER THROUGH A 1410 JOINT AND
YOU WILL STILL HAVE A PROBLEM. THAT'S WHY COMPANIES LIKE YUKON GEAR AND AXLE NOW OFFER HEAVY DUTY 1350, 1410, AND 1480 JOINTS. THEY'RE REFERRED TO AS LIFETIME JOINTS, AND YOU CAN SEE THAT THERE'S NO PROVISIONS FOR A GREASE
FITTING ON THIS JOINT. THAT MEANS THAT THERE'S NO GREASE GALLERIES DRILLED THROUGH THE CROSS. BY REMOVING THOSE GREASE GALLERIES YOU EFFECTIVELY REMOVE A WEAK POINT IN THE JOINT, MAKING THE JOINT INCREDIBLY STRONG.
(ANNOUNCER)>> UP NEXT, BUILDING YOUR OWN DRIVESHAFTS CAN SAVE TIME AND MONEY!
(IAN)>> TODAY WE'RE TAKING A IN DEPTH
LOOK AT DRIVESHAFTS. NOW WHAT'S JUST AS IMPORTANT AS THE SHAFT IS HOW IT'S MOUNTED TO THE TRANSFER CASE AND TO THE AXLE. SEE FORM THE FACTORY MOST OEM'S USE THESE SMALL
STRAPS AND BOLTS TO HOLD THE UJOINT IN PLACE. WELL WE DON'T REALLY LIKE THIS STYLE. WE PREFER THE FULL STRAP. IT WRAPS ALL THE WAY AROUND THE CAP, TRAVELS THROUGH THE YOKE, AND IS HELD IN PLACE BY SOME NUTS. THESE STRAPS CAN JUST HANDLE A LOT MORE ABUSE
WHEN THEY'RE ON THE TRAIL. IF A ROCK GETS UP INTO THAT UJOINT THERE'S JUST MORE HEFT TO THE STRAP IN THE SYSTEM.
THE PROBLEM IS IF THAT STRAP FAILS THE UJOINT'S KINDA LOOSE INSIDE THE YOKE, USUALLY CAUSES COLLATERAL DAMAGE. PERFECT EXAMPLE OF THIS IS THIS YOKE RIGHT HERE. THIS IS A UJOINT FAILURE AND YOU CAN SEE THAT THERE'S DAMAGE TO THE END OF THE YOKE.
WHAT'S MISSING IS THIS LITTLE TAB THAT ACTUALLY LOCATES THE UJOINT INTO THE SYSTEM. NOW THIS TAB, ALTHOUGH IT'S NOT VERY BIG, IS VERY IMPORTANT. AS THE DRIVESHAFT SPINS AND THE SUSPENSION MOVES AROUND, THE CAPS ACTUALLY HAVE A LOT OF PRESSURE, PUSHING OUT ON THEM. IF THAT TAB IS NOT THERE, IT'S JUST GONNA PUSH THE
CAPS RIGHT OFF THE JOINT EVEN IF YOU'VE JUST DONE A QUICK TRAIL FIX. THERE IS ONE WAY TO STOP THAT FROM HAPPENING IF YOU HAVE TO GET OFF THE TRAIL. PUT A NEW UJOINT IN YOUR DRIVESHAFT, SET IT ALL INTO PLACE, PUT NEW STRAPS INTO THE SYSTEM, AND THEN GET A WELDER AND WELD THE CAP RIGHT ONTO THE ACTUAL UJOINT YOKE. IT BASICALLY MAKES THE JOINT AND THE YOKE USELESS BUT IT WILL GET YOU OFF THE TRAIL AND YOU CAN FIX IT WHEN YOU'RE BACK AT THE SHOP. SO YOU'RE AT THAT POINT IN YOUR PROJECT WHERE IT'S ACTUALLY TIME TO ORDER YOUR DRIVESHAFTS. YOU'VE DETERMINED WHAT TYPE OF SHAFT YOU'RE GONNA NEED AND ALSO WHAT SIZE OF UJOINT YOU PLAN TO RUN. BUT IT'S NOT AS SIMPLE AS JUST CRAWLING UNDERNEATH YOUR RIG AND PULLING ONE MEASUREMENT. YOU NEED TO TAKE THREE SEPARATE MEASUREMENTS. THE FIRST IS JACK THE BUGGY ALL THE WAY UP IN
THE AIR AND LET THE SUSPENSION FULLY DROOP OUT. THEN YOU MEASURE FROM THE CENTER OF THE UJOINT ON THE TRANSFER CASE DOWN TO THE CENTER OF THE UJOINT ON THE AXLE. THEN YOU DO THE EXACT OPPOSITE. PULL THE SPRINGS OUT OF THE COIL OVERS, COMPRESS THE SUSPENSION ALL THE WAY, AND TAKE
THE SAME MEASUREMENT. AND THEN DO IT AGAIN WHEN THE VEHICLE IS SITTING AT RIDE HEIGHT. THE REASON YOU DO THAT IS TO MAKE SURE THAT YOU COMPENSATE FOR ALL THE SLIP YOKE THAT YOU'RE GONNA NEED IN THE SHAFT. YOU CAN SEE WITH THIS SETUP RIGHT HERE THE SHAFT'S GONNA CHANGE LENGTH ALMOST TWO INCHES, AND THE DRIVESHAFT SHOCK NEEDS TO MAKE SURE THAT THE SLIP YOKE IS SETUP AT THE CORRECT SPOT SO IT DOESN'T COME UNHOOKED FROM THE DRIVESHAFT, OR WORSE, BOTTOM OUT WHICH CAN CAUSE DAMAGE TO THE TRANSFER CASE OR THE AXLE. ONCE YOU HAVE THE MEASUREMENTS, YOU CALL UP THE SHOP, GIVE IT TO THEM, AND THEY WILL BUILD THE SHAFT AND SHIP IT TO YOU. BUT THERE IS ONE OTHER OPTION. IF YOU'RE BUILDING A HARDCORE OFF ROAD TRUCK LIKE A TUBE BUGGY OR EVEN A ROCK BOUNCER, YOU CAN BUILD AN INCREDIBLY STRONG DRIVESHAFT ALL BY YOURSELF.
ESSENTIALLY OFF ROAD OFFERS A KIT TO DO IT, AND IT INCLUDES A YOKE, A SPLINE SHAFT, AND A SLIP YOKE, ALL DESIGNED TO FIT INSIDE TWO AND A HALF INCH QUARTER INCH WALL DOM. NOW THESE SHAFTS ARE ACTUALLY VERY EASY TO BUILD. ONCE YOU DETERMINED THE LENGTH OF THE SHAFT, ALL
YOU HAVE TO DO IS CUT THE TUBE TO THE CORRECT LENGTH, PRESS IN THE YOKE END AS WELL AS THE SPLINED END. LOCK IT DOWN ON A GOOD BENCH AND THEN FULLY WELD THE SHAFT, AND YOU ARE GOOD TO GO.
NOW A SHAFT THIS BEEFY, IT'S NOT REALLY IDEAL TO USE ON THE STREET, AND THAT'S BECAUSE THERE'S A LOT OF WEIGHT ON IT. PRETTY MUCH ANYTHING OVER 24 INCHES LONG YOU DON'T WANT TO HAVE A SHAFT THAT'S MADE OUT OF QUARTER INCH WELL DOM, AND THAT'S BECAUSE THAT SHAFT WILL START DOING WHAT'S CALLED JUMP ROPING. IF YOU WERE TO WATCH A SHAFT AT HIGHWAY SPEED, YOU'LL SEE THAT A HEAVY SHAFT WILL ACTUALLY BEND IN THE MIDDLE AND START TO VIBRATE. THAT CAN LEAD TO SHAFT FAILURE. THAT'S WHY YOU'LL SEE TRUCKS THAT HAVE INCREDIBLY LONG DRIVESHAFTS. THEY'RE USUALLY THREE OR POSSIBLY FOUR INCHES AROUND, BUT FOR A HARDCORE OFF ROAD RIG THIS IS A GREAT SOLUTION. WHEN YOU GET DONE BUILDING YOUR DRIVESHAFT, OR TAKE
DELIVERY OF YOUR BRAND NEW SHAFT FROM THE DRIVESHAFT SHOP, YOU'RE NOT DONE QUITE YET. YOU CAN'T JUST THROW IT IN YOUR RIG AND HIT THE TRAIL. YOU NEED TO CHECK ONE LAST THING. YOU HAVE TO INSTALL THE DRIVESHAFT INTO THE RIG,
BOTH INTO THE TRANSFER CASE OUTPUT AND INTO THE AXLE. THEN FULLY DROOP OUT THE SUSPENSION, PUT THE TRANSFER CASE IN NEUTRAL, AND ROTATE THE SHAFT. WHAT YOU'RE CHECKING FOR IS YOU WANT TO MAKE SURE THAT THE EARS OF YOUR DRIVESHAFT DO NOT CONTACT THE YOKE WHEN THE SUSPENSION IS AT FULL DROOP. IF IT DOES YOU'VE GOT A COUPLE OF WAYS TO FIX IT. ONE WAY IS TO ADD A CENTER MOUNT LIMIT STRAP ONTO YOUR REAR AXLE. PREVENT IT FROM DROOPING OUT SO FAR THAT THE SHAFT HITS. ANOTHER WAY IS TO COME IN HERE WITH A CARBIDE BURR, MAYBE A FLAP WHEEL, JUST OPEN UP THE EDGES OF THIS YOKE SLIGHTLY. YOU WANT ABOUT AND EIGHTH INCH GAP BETWEEN THE EARS OF THE DRIVESHAFT AND THE YOKE. IF YOU DON'T HAVE THAT GAP WHAT CAN HAPPEN? THE DRIVESHAFT CAN GET INTO A BIND, IT CAN SNAP THE UJOINT, WHICH WILL THEN WRECK YOUR DRIVESHAFT, WRECK YOUR BRAND NEW PINION YOKE, OR WRECK YOUR BRAND NEW TRANSFER CASE YOKE, PUTTING ALL THE MONEY YOU SPEND OUT THE WINDOW. GO AHEAD, TAKE THIS STEP, IT'LL SAVE YOU IN THE LONG RUN.
(ANNOUNCER)>> UP NEXT WE'LL HELP WILL STEWART GET THE MOST FROM HIS WELDING MACHINE.
(ANNOUNCER)>> NEED HELP SOLVING A PROBLEM WITH YOUR PROJECT?
HERE'S DRIVEWAY RESCUE.
(IAN)>> WILL STEWART IS A FAN OF XTREME OFF ROAD AND A ROCK BOUNCER WHO HAS NO FEAR IN POINTING HIS RIG AT SOME OF THE CRAZIEST HILLS IN THE SOUTH, BUT WHEN IT COMES TO PROPER WELDER SETUP, HE HAS SOME HESITATION. SO WE LOADED UP OUR ESAB REBEL WELDER TO GIVE HIM
A HAND WELDING UP HIS LATEST PROJECT.
ALRIGHT WILL, SO WE'RE HERE TO DO A LITTLE BIT OF WELDING ON YOUR BUGGY, AND I BROUGHT A COUPLE OF THINGS JUST TO SORT OF HELP YOU GET PAST THAT HUMP. YOU SAID YOU WERE HAVING A LITTLE BIT OF TROUBLE MAKING REALLY PRETTY WELDS, RIGHT?
(WILL)>> RIGHT.
(IAN)>> OKAY WELL IT'S NOT THAT HARD. IT'S JUST GONNA BE PRACTICE, AND BELIEVE IT OR NOT THERE ARE SOME THINGS THAT MAKE
A HUGE DIFFERENCE. THE FIRST IS GONNA BE WELDING WIRE, OKAY. A LOT OF PEOPLE THINK THAT ANY WELDING WIRE, IT'S GONNA BE FIRE, BUT THE REALITY IS IF JUST LIKE YOU WERE PAINTING A CAR, YOU'D WANT TO BUY REALLY GOOD PAINT, A GOOD FINISH. THE WIRE IS THE SAME DEAL. SO I BROUGHT THIS, IT'S CALLED SPOOL ARC 86. IT'S AN ESAB WIRE, AND IT'S SPECIFICALLY DESIGNED TO WELD MILD STEEL WITH A LITTLE BIT OF
MILL SCALE ON IT. SO IT'LL BURN THROUGH AND CUT IN REALLY NICE. IT MAKES A HUGE DIFFERENCE. AND THEN THE SECOND THING IS THE MACHINE. THE NICE THING ABOUT THE REBEL IS IT'LL MAKE
ANYBODY INTO A REALLY GOOD WELDER CAUSE THE COOL DEAL ABOUT THIS IS IT'S GONNA ANALYZE HOW YOU'RE WELDING WHILE YOU WELD AND IT'S GONNA ADJUST THE MACHINE FOR YOU.
(WILL)>> THAT'S AWESOME!
(IAN)>> SO WHAT WE'RE GONNA DO IS WE'RE GONNA LOAD THIS THING UP WITH SOME OF THIS WIRE. WE'LL GET THE MACHINE SETUP. I'VE GOT TO SWAP OUT THE GAS CAUSE IT'S SET UP TO TIG WELD RIGHT NOW.
OKAY THE BEAUTY OF THIS THING IS SETUP, SUPER SIMPLE, OKAY? GOT THIS LITTLE SCREEN HERE TO LOOK AT, AND ALL WE'RE AFTER RIGHT NOW IS WHAT'S CALLED SMIG, SMART MIG, AND YOU ONLY HAVE TO ANSWER A FEW QUESTIONS. SO YOU JUST CLICK ON IT.
YOU SAY SMIG, YES.
HOW BIG IS THE WIRE? I'VE GOT ZEROTHREEZERO WIRE IN THERE, YOU JUST
SAY YES, AND IT'S GONNA ASK US HOW
THICK THE STEEL IS. AND YOU'RE AT ABOUT A 10 GAUGE, MAYBE A HOT 10 GAUGE. SO THAT'S IT, YOU'RE READY TO WELD. SO ALL WE HAVE TO DO NOW IS WE'LL START WELDING. THE FIRST THREE SECONDS OF THE BEAD THE MACHINE WILL MEASURE THE FEEDBACK THROUGH THE GROUND CLAMP AND IT WILL ADJUST EVERYTHING, AND WE CAN FINE TUNE IT IF WE NEED TO BUT WE'LL GO AHEAD AND WE'LL START ON ONE OF THESE FRONT ONES, SEE WHAT IT LOOKS LIKE.
(WILL)>> ALRIGHT. [ welder crackling ]
(IAN)>> OKAY YOU CAN ACTUALLY SEE HOW IT WAS RUNNING A LITTLE BIT COLD TO START? THAT WAS THAT FIRST LITTLE INITIAL BIT. WHEN THE WELD SITS UP TALL LIKE THAT AND IS LIKE
PINCHED, IT'S JUST A LITTLE BIT COLD. SO, BUT YOU CAN SEE HOW THAT WAS THE FIRST FEW SECONDS. THEN THE MACHINE ADJUSTED AND THE WELD STARTED TO GET HOT TO ROLL IN.
(WILL)>> SO IS IT ADJUSTED NOW WHEN YOU START BACK OFF FOR YOUR SECOND WELD?
(IAN)>> YEP, IT'LL BE EVERY TIME, UNTIL WE MAKE A CHANGE ON THE MACHINE, IT IS READY TO GO FOR THIS MATERIAL WITH THIS WIRE. IT KNOWS WHAT WE WANT.
(WILL)>> AWESOME! [ welder crackling ]
(IAN)>> YOU READY TO TRY?
(WILL)>> OH YEAH.
[ welder crackling ]
(IAN)>> THAT LOOKS PRETTY DARN GOOD WILL.
SEE HOW IT LAYS IN A LITTLE FLATTER?
(WILL)>> RIGHT.
(IAN)>> THAT'S BECAUSE WHEN YOU'RE PULLING IT AWAY YOU'RE ACTUALLY DRAGGING THAT WHOLE PUDDLE WITH A LITTLE BIT MORE HEAT.
(WILL)>> SO WHICH ONE'S THE STRONGER WELD?
(IAN)>> TECHNICALLY THEY'RE BOTH, YOU CAN TELL THEY'RE BOTH STRONG. SEE THE BLUING ON BOTH SIDES? THE WELD IS BOTH FINE CAUSE YOU HAVE PENETRATION ALL THE WAY UP TO HERE AND ALL THE WAY DOWN TO THERE. [ welder crackling ]
(IAN)>> THAT'S PERFECT!
(WILL)>> LOOKING A LOT BETTER FOR SURE.
(IAN)>> YEP, IT'S ALL IT IS. IT SOUNDS STUPID BUT IT'S LIKE CONSISTENCY, TRAVEL TIME, DISTANCE, AND THEN JUST TIME, JUST TIME WELDING, JUST TIME WELDING. THE REBEL IS A TRUE MULTIPROCESS MACHINE, AND
WITH A SWAP OF THE LEADS AND A BOTTLE OF PURE ARGON, I WILL TIG IN A FEW GUSSETS ON WILL'S CHASSIS TO GIVE THIS RIG A TRUE OVER THE TOP LOOK.
WILL THANKS FOR HAVING US OUT TO WORK ON YOUR BUGGY.
(WILL)>> MAN I APPRECIATE IT.
(IAN)>> I CAN'T WAIT TO SEE THIS THING ALL TOGETHER AND ON THE TRAIL.
(WILL)>> I CAN'T WAIT TO SEE IT KILLING HILLS MYSELF.
(IAN)>> NOW YOU LEARNED A LOT TODAY ABOUT WELDING. PROBABLY ONE OF THE BEST PIECES OF ADVICE THAT I CAN GIVE YOU THOUGH IS YOU'VE JUST GOT TO PRACTICE. SO NOW YOU'VE GOT ALL THOSE LITTLE TIPS I TAUGHT YOU. NOW JUST PRACTICE THEM, AND I'M GONNA MAKE THAT EASIER FOR YOU. THE GUYS AT ESAB ARE GONNA HOOK YOU UP WITH
YOUR OWN REBEL WELDER.
(WILL)>> WHAT?
(IAN)>> YEP, THEY'RE GONNA GIVE YOU THE REBEL READY TO WELD, SAME DEAL, MIG, TIG, STICK, READY TO GO. SO WHEN YOU'RE IN YOUR SHOP HERE, WHEN YOU'RE READY TO WELD YOU DON'T HAVE TO CALL ME ANYMORE. YOU'VE GOT YOUR OWN MACHINE.
(WILL)>> I APPRECIATE THAT, I APPRECIATE THAT FROM ESAB.
(IAN)>> NO PROBLEM MAN. YOU'RE GONNA LOVE THAT MACHINE AND IT'S GONNA HELP YOU BUILD YOUR NEXT ONE.
(WILL)>> NEXT YEAR, WE'RE GONNA BUILD ANOTHER ONE JUST BECAUSE I GOT A NEW MACHINE.
(IAN)>> AWESOME THANKS AGAIN.
(WILL)>> I APPRECIATE IT.
(ANNOUNCER)>> UP NEXT, YOU CAN DO A LOT AND DO IT FAST WITH A GOOD SET OF METAL WORKING TOOLS.
(IAN)>> THERE IS NO QUESTION THAT WE HAVE A LOT OF COOL TOOLS HERE IN THE XTREME OFF ROAD SHOP.
THIS PLACE IS BASICALLY A FABRICATOR'S DREAM GARAGE. NOW A LOT OF YOU HAVE BEEN ASKING FOR MORE INFORMATION ON OUR EDWARDS MANUFACTURING IRON WORKER. NOW THIS IS A GREAT MACHINE. IT REALLY HELPS SPEED UP YOUR FABRICATION PROJECTS IN MANY DIFFERENT TYPES OF MATERIAL PROCESSES. THIS MODEL CAN EASILY SHEER UP TO THREE QUARTER INCH THICK STEEL, CUT ANGLE IRON, AND EVEN HAS AN AUTO CUT FEATURE WITH A PRESSURE SWITCH TO MAKE MULTIPLE IDENTICAL CUTS. A NIBBLER ONE END TO MAKE SMALL CUTS AND A PUNCH ON THE OTHER WITH MANY DIFFERENT SIZES AND
SHAPES OF CUTTERS. THE REASON I CHOSE THIS PARTICULAR IRON WORKER ALL REVOLVES AROUND THE PUNCH SETUP. NOW THIS MACHINE SHIPS WITH A PRETTY STANDARD SIZE PUNCH, BUT EDWARDS OFFERS AN OVERSIZE PUNCH KIT THAT REALLY HELPS WITH OFF ROAD FABRICATION. THE MACHINE IS UNPLUGGED DURING THE SWAP AND WITH THE GUARD REMOVED, THE LOWER PLATE IS UNBOLTED ALONG WITH THE UPPER PUNCH MOUNT.
THE NEW UPPER PUNCH MOUNT ASSEMBLY IS INSTALLED...
NEW LOWER PLATE, AND FINALLY THE NEW GUARD ASSEMBLY.
WITH THE OVERSIZE PUNCH KIT NOW I CAN PUNCH HUGE HOLES IN FLAT PLATE, UP TO FOUR INCHES AROUND. NOW ANYONE WHO'S BUILT ANY SERIOUS OFF ROAD CARS KNOWS THAT THAT WILL REALLY SPEED UP THE PROCESS TO ADDING THOSE BEAUTIFUL DIMPLE DYED PANELS. NO MORE HOLE SAWS NEEDED HERE IN THE XTREME SHOP. BUT HONESTLY THE MAIN REASON I CHOSE THE OVERSIZE KIT WAS FOR A VERY SPECIFIC HOLE. IF ANY OF YOU HAVE EVER TRIED TO MOUNT ONE OF
THESE CARLYLE STYLE ARB SWITCHES INTO YOUR RIG, YOU KNOW THAT GETTING THE HOLE PERFECT, IT'S KIND OF A PAIN. WELL THE COOL THING ABOUT EDWARDS IS THEY CAN CUSTOM MAKE TOOLING FOR YOU. I HAD THEM MAKE ME A PUNCH AND DYE SPECIFIC FOR THIS SWITCH. SO NOW ALL I HAVE TO DO IS PUNCH THE HOLE IN THE PANEL, POP IN THE SWITCH. BUT THE BEST PART ABOUT THE IRON WORKER IS THE ABILITY TO USE THE HYDRAULIC ACCESSORIES. BY SIMPLY PLUGGING THE HOSES INTO THE SIDE OF THE
MACHINE, THE HYDRAULIC PUMP INSIDE THE IRON
WORKER IS NOW USED TO POWER MANY DIFFERENT TYPES OF MACHINES, FROM THE 10 TON TUBING BENDER TO THE NEW RRMTWO TUBING ROLLER. HORIZONTAL PRESS, AND THEIR VERTICAL PRESS. SO AS YOU CAN SEE, AN IRON WORKER IS MORE THAN JUST A STAND ALONE MACHINE. WITH SOME TOOLING UPGRADES AND SOME ACCESSORIES, IT CAN TACKLE ANY JOB IN YOUR FAB SHOP, AND MAKE YOUR LIFE AS AN OFF ROAD FABRICATOR A LOT EASIER.
Show Full Transcript
DAY ON THE TRAIL TO A HALT IN AN INSTANT. TODAY ON XTREME OFF ROAD WE SHOW YOU HOW TO SETUP YOUR DRIVELINE RIGHT, KEEPING YOUR RIG ON THE ROCKS AND OUT OF THE SHOP. PLUS WE'LL HELP ROCK BOUNCER WILL STEWART LAY DOWN SOME SICK WELDS ON THIS WEEK'S DRIVEWAY RESCUE.
(IAN)>> TODAY WE'RE GONNA TAKE A STEP BACK AND TAKE A LOOK AT PROBABLY ONE OF THE MOST IMPORTANT PARTS OF YOUR RIG. IT'S THE CONNECTION BETWEEN THE TRANSFER CASE AND THE AXLES, AND IT'S PROBABLY THE MOST UNPROTECTED PART OF YOUR DRIVETRAIN. OBVIOUSLY WE'RE TALKING ABOUT THE DRIVESHAFT.
NOW EVERY TRAIL IN THE COUNTRY HAS THAT ONE ROCK THAT'S CLAIMED QUITE A FEW DRIVESHAFTS FROM MANY DIFFERENT TYPES OF RIGS. NOW THERE IS NO WAY TO BUILD A 100 PERCENT INDESTRUCTIBLE DRIVESHAFT, BUT WITH A LITTLE KNOWLEDGE AND A LITTLE PLANNING YOU CAN COME UP WITH THE BEST DRIVESHAFT FOR YOUR APPLICATION, AND IT STARTS BY UNDERSTANDING THE DIFFERENT TYPES OF DRIVESHAFTS OUT THERE. IN THE WORLD OF OFF ROADING THERE ARE THREE POPULAR TYPES OF DRIVESHAFTS. THE FIRST IS A SOLID SHAFT. A PIECE OF TUBING, UJOINTS AT EITHER END, AND A SLIP YOKE THAT SLIDES IN AND OUT ON THE TRANSFER CASE OUTPUT SHAFT. NOW THE REASON IT SLIDES IN AND OUT ON THAT SHAFT IS BECAUSE AS THE AXLE MOVES UP AND DOWN THE DRIVESHAFT MUST ADJUST TO THE DIFFERENCE IN LENGTH THE PROBLEM WITH THAT SETUP IS AS YOU ADD MORE SUSPENSION TRAVEL TO THE VEHICLE THERE IS A CHANCE THAT THE SLIP YOKE CAN PULL RIGHT OUT OF THE TRANSFER CASE, LEAVING YOU DEAD ON THE TRAIL. WE USUALLY ELIMINATE THAT SLIP YOKE AND EXCHANGE IT FOR THIS TYPE OF DRIVESHAFT. IT'S A FIXED AT EITHER END, UJOINTS THAT ARE ATTACHED TO THE TRANSFER CASE AND TO THE AXLE. THE SLIP IN THE SYSTEM IS NOW BUILT INTO THE DRIVESHAFT AND A YOKE WITH A BUNCH OF BEEFY SPLINES. WITH A FIXED SHAFT THERE'S USUALLY TWO DIFFERENT TYPES, UJOINTS AT BOTH ENDS OR ONE END WILL HAVE A C/V, OR CONSTANT VELOCITY JOINT SETUP. NOW THIS MAY LOOK BIG, BEEFY, AND STRONG BUT IT'S ACTUALLY NOT THERE FOR STRENGTH. IT'S THERE TO ELIMINATE VIBRATION IN THE SYSTEM. WHEN YOU'RE LOOKING FOR STRENGTH NOTHING BEATS UJOINTS AT EITHER END. ALL YOU HAVE TO DECIDE THEN IS WHAT KIND OF UJOINTS.
CONSIDERING HOW IMPORTANT THE UJOINT IS, IT'S ACTUALLY VERY SIMPLE. IT'S ONLY MADE UP OF A FEW KEY COMPONENTS. THE BODY OF THE UJOINT IS REFERRED TO AS THE CROSS, AND AT EACH END OF THAT CROSS IS A UJOINT CAP. INSIDE THE UJOINT CAP ARE NEEDLE BEARINGS. NOW THOSE NEEDLE BEARINGS ALLOW THE CAP TO PIVOT ON THE BODY OF THE UJOINT AS THE SUSPENSION CYCLES.
TO GREASE THE NEEDLE BEARINGS THERE'S A GREASE
FITTING THAT WILL ALLOW THE GREASE TO TRAVEL THROUGH GREASE GALLERIES THAT ARE DRILLED THROUGH THE CROSS TO LUBRICATE THE JOINT, AND THAT IS HOW YOU SERVICE IT WHEN IT'S IN THE VEHICLE. NOW MOST COMMONLY UJOINTS ARE REFERRED TO BY A NUMERICAL NUMBER REFERRING TO ITS SIZE, AND JUST LIKE THE SPORT OF OFF ROADING, AS ITS GROWN SO HAD THE SIZE OF OUR UJOINTS. A 1310 SERIES JOINT USED TO BE PRETTY COMMON PLACE OFF ROAD AND IT'S STILL ONE OF THE MOST COMMONLY USED OEM UJOINTS OUT THERE, BUT ITS THREE POINT TWONINE INCH CROSS AND CAP THAT'S JUST OVER ONE INCH MEANS THAT IT'S JUST NOT STRONG ENOUGH FOR SERIOUS OFF ROAD ABUSE. THE NEXT STEP UP IS A 1330 SERIES JOINTS. THE CAP IS THE SAME AS THE 1310, BUT THE CROSS HAS NOW GROWN. IT'S NOW THREE POINT SIXTWOTWO INCHES ACROSS. YOU'LL FIND THESE USUALLY IN THE BACK OF HALF TON PICK UP TRUCKS SPINNING DANA 44 OR 10 INCH
RING GEAR AXLES. PROBABLY THE MOST COMMON UJOINT THAT YOU'RE GONNA SEE US USE IN OFF ROADING IS THE 1350 JOINT. NOW THIS JOINT IS THREE POINT SIXTWOTWO INCHES ACROSS AND THE CAPS ARE NOW ONE POINT ONEEIGHTEIGHT INCHES. THE 1350 IS COMMONLY USED IN ONE TON AND THREE QUARTER TON TRUCKS.
IT'S EASY TO FIND IF YOU EVER NEED TO REPAIR YOUR VEHICLE IN THE MIDDLE OF NOWHERE, AND IT'S USUALLY
THE GOTO JOINT FOR MOST DRIVESHAFTS HERE IN THE XTREME OFF ROAD SHOP. NOW WITH SPORTS LIKE ROCK BOUNCING AND ROCK RACING GROWING IN POPULARITY, WELL THE 1350 JOINT JUST WASN'T ENOUGH, AND THAT IS WHERE TWO JOINTS HAVE BECOME MORE COMMONLY FOUND, THE 1410 AND THE 1480. YOU CAN SEE THAT THESE JOINTS ARE MASSIVE WHEN YOU COMPARE THEM TO THE SMALL LITTLE 1310 JOINT. THE 1410 IS NOW FOUR POINT ONEEIGHTEIGHT INCHES ACROSS AND THE CAP IS ONE POINT ONEEIGHT INCHES, SAME AS THE 1350.
THE 1480 IS EVEN BIGGER AT JUST OVER FOUR AND A QUARTER INCHES WIDE, AND THE CAPS ARE ONE POINT THREESEVENFIVE INCHES. THIS IS POSSIBLY THE STRONGEST UJOINT YOU'RE GONNA BE ABLE TO FIT IN YOUR RIG. THE REASON THESE JOINTS GET SO STRONG IS NO ONLY BECAUSE THE SIZE OF THE CROSS GROWS, THEREFORE GIVING YOU MORE SURFACE AREA AND MORE STRENGTH. WHEN YOU STRETCH THE CAPS FURTHER OUT THE DRIVESHAFT CAN OPERATE AT MORE SEVERE ANGLES BEFORE THE JOINT
COMES INTO A BIND, AND THAT IS WHY THE LARGER JOINTS HAVE BECOME MORE POPULAR.
NOW JUST BECAUSE IT'S A BIG JOINT DOESN'T MEAN IT CAN'T FAIL.
YOU PUT ENOUGH HORSEPOWER THROUGH A 1410 JOINT AND
YOU WILL STILL HAVE A PROBLEM. THAT'S WHY COMPANIES LIKE YUKON GEAR AND AXLE NOW OFFER HEAVY DUTY 1350, 1410, AND 1480 JOINTS. THEY'RE REFERRED TO AS LIFETIME JOINTS, AND YOU CAN SEE THAT THERE'S NO PROVISIONS FOR A GREASE
FITTING ON THIS JOINT. THAT MEANS THAT THERE'S NO GREASE GALLERIES DRILLED THROUGH THE CROSS. BY REMOVING THOSE GREASE GALLERIES YOU EFFECTIVELY REMOVE A WEAK POINT IN THE JOINT, MAKING THE JOINT INCREDIBLY STRONG.
(ANNOUNCER)>> UP NEXT, BUILDING YOUR OWN DRIVESHAFTS CAN SAVE TIME AND MONEY!
(IAN)>> TODAY WE'RE TAKING A IN DEPTH
LOOK AT DRIVESHAFTS. NOW WHAT'S JUST AS IMPORTANT AS THE SHAFT IS HOW IT'S MOUNTED TO THE TRANSFER CASE AND TO THE AXLE. SEE FORM THE FACTORY MOST OEM'S USE THESE SMALL
STRAPS AND BOLTS TO HOLD THE UJOINT IN PLACE. WELL WE DON'T REALLY LIKE THIS STYLE. WE PREFER THE FULL STRAP. IT WRAPS ALL THE WAY AROUND THE CAP, TRAVELS THROUGH THE YOKE, AND IS HELD IN PLACE BY SOME NUTS. THESE STRAPS CAN JUST HANDLE A LOT MORE ABUSE
WHEN THEY'RE ON THE TRAIL. IF A ROCK GETS UP INTO THAT UJOINT THERE'S JUST MORE HEFT TO THE STRAP IN THE SYSTEM.
THE PROBLEM IS IF THAT STRAP FAILS THE UJOINT'S KINDA LOOSE INSIDE THE YOKE, USUALLY CAUSES COLLATERAL DAMAGE. PERFECT EXAMPLE OF THIS IS THIS YOKE RIGHT HERE. THIS IS A UJOINT FAILURE AND YOU CAN SEE THAT THERE'S DAMAGE TO THE END OF THE YOKE.
WHAT'S MISSING IS THIS LITTLE TAB THAT ACTUALLY LOCATES THE UJOINT INTO THE SYSTEM. NOW THIS TAB, ALTHOUGH IT'S NOT VERY BIG, IS VERY IMPORTANT. AS THE DRIVESHAFT SPINS AND THE SUSPENSION MOVES AROUND, THE CAPS ACTUALLY HAVE A LOT OF PRESSURE, PUSHING OUT ON THEM. IF THAT TAB IS NOT THERE, IT'S JUST GONNA PUSH THE
CAPS RIGHT OFF THE JOINT EVEN IF YOU'VE JUST DONE A QUICK TRAIL FIX. THERE IS ONE WAY TO STOP THAT FROM HAPPENING IF YOU HAVE TO GET OFF THE TRAIL. PUT A NEW UJOINT IN YOUR DRIVESHAFT, SET IT ALL INTO PLACE, PUT NEW STRAPS INTO THE SYSTEM, AND THEN GET A WELDER AND WELD THE CAP RIGHT ONTO THE ACTUAL UJOINT YOKE. IT BASICALLY MAKES THE JOINT AND THE YOKE USELESS BUT IT WILL GET YOU OFF THE TRAIL AND YOU CAN FIX IT WHEN YOU'RE BACK AT THE SHOP. SO YOU'RE AT THAT POINT IN YOUR PROJECT WHERE IT'S ACTUALLY TIME TO ORDER YOUR DRIVESHAFTS. YOU'VE DETERMINED WHAT TYPE OF SHAFT YOU'RE GONNA NEED AND ALSO WHAT SIZE OF UJOINT YOU PLAN TO RUN. BUT IT'S NOT AS SIMPLE AS JUST CRAWLING UNDERNEATH YOUR RIG AND PULLING ONE MEASUREMENT. YOU NEED TO TAKE THREE SEPARATE MEASUREMENTS. THE FIRST IS JACK THE BUGGY ALL THE WAY UP IN
THE AIR AND LET THE SUSPENSION FULLY DROOP OUT. THEN YOU MEASURE FROM THE CENTER OF THE UJOINT ON THE TRANSFER CASE DOWN TO THE CENTER OF THE UJOINT ON THE AXLE. THEN YOU DO THE EXACT OPPOSITE. PULL THE SPRINGS OUT OF THE COIL OVERS, COMPRESS THE SUSPENSION ALL THE WAY, AND TAKE
THE SAME MEASUREMENT. AND THEN DO IT AGAIN WHEN THE VEHICLE IS SITTING AT RIDE HEIGHT. THE REASON YOU DO THAT IS TO MAKE SURE THAT YOU COMPENSATE FOR ALL THE SLIP YOKE THAT YOU'RE GONNA NEED IN THE SHAFT. YOU CAN SEE WITH THIS SETUP RIGHT HERE THE SHAFT'S GONNA CHANGE LENGTH ALMOST TWO INCHES, AND THE DRIVESHAFT SHOCK NEEDS TO MAKE SURE THAT THE SLIP YOKE IS SETUP AT THE CORRECT SPOT SO IT DOESN'T COME UNHOOKED FROM THE DRIVESHAFT, OR WORSE, BOTTOM OUT WHICH CAN CAUSE DAMAGE TO THE TRANSFER CASE OR THE AXLE. ONCE YOU HAVE THE MEASUREMENTS, YOU CALL UP THE SHOP, GIVE IT TO THEM, AND THEY WILL BUILD THE SHAFT AND SHIP IT TO YOU. BUT THERE IS ONE OTHER OPTION. IF YOU'RE BUILDING A HARDCORE OFF ROAD TRUCK LIKE A TUBE BUGGY OR EVEN A ROCK BOUNCER, YOU CAN BUILD AN INCREDIBLY STRONG DRIVESHAFT ALL BY YOURSELF.
ESSENTIALLY OFF ROAD OFFERS A KIT TO DO IT, AND IT INCLUDES A YOKE, A SPLINE SHAFT, AND A SLIP YOKE, ALL DESIGNED TO FIT INSIDE TWO AND A HALF INCH QUARTER INCH WALL DOM. NOW THESE SHAFTS ARE ACTUALLY VERY EASY TO BUILD. ONCE YOU DETERMINED THE LENGTH OF THE SHAFT, ALL
YOU HAVE TO DO IS CUT THE TUBE TO THE CORRECT LENGTH, PRESS IN THE YOKE END AS WELL AS THE SPLINED END. LOCK IT DOWN ON A GOOD BENCH AND THEN FULLY WELD THE SHAFT, AND YOU ARE GOOD TO GO.
NOW A SHAFT THIS BEEFY, IT'S NOT REALLY IDEAL TO USE ON THE STREET, AND THAT'S BECAUSE THERE'S A LOT OF WEIGHT ON IT. PRETTY MUCH ANYTHING OVER 24 INCHES LONG YOU DON'T WANT TO HAVE A SHAFT THAT'S MADE OUT OF QUARTER INCH WELL DOM, AND THAT'S BECAUSE THAT SHAFT WILL START DOING WHAT'S CALLED JUMP ROPING. IF YOU WERE TO WATCH A SHAFT AT HIGHWAY SPEED, YOU'LL SEE THAT A HEAVY SHAFT WILL ACTUALLY BEND IN THE MIDDLE AND START TO VIBRATE. THAT CAN LEAD TO SHAFT FAILURE. THAT'S WHY YOU'LL SEE TRUCKS THAT HAVE INCREDIBLY LONG DRIVESHAFTS. THEY'RE USUALLY THREE OR POSSIBLY FOUR INCHES AROUND, BUT FOR A HARDCORE OFF ROAD RIG THIS IS A GREAT SOLUTION. WHEN YOU GET DONE BUILDING YOUR DRIVESHAFT, OR TAKE
DELIVERY OF YOUR BRAND NEW SHAFT FROM THE DRIVESHAFT SHOP, YOU'RE NOT DONE QUITE YET. YOU CAN'T JUST THROW IT IN YOUR RIG AND HIT THE TRAIL. YOU NEED TO CHECK ONE LAST THING. YOU HAVE TO INSTALL THE DRIVESHAFT INTO THE RIG,
BOTH INTO THE TRANSFER CASE OUTPUT AND INTO THE AXLE. THEN FULLY DROOP OUT THE SUSPENSION, PUT THE TRANSFER CASE IN NEUTRAL, AND ROTATE THE SHAFT. WHAT YOU'RE CHECKING FOR IS YOU WANT TO MAKE SURE THAT THE EARS OF YOUR DRIVESHAFT DO NOT CONTACT THE YOKE WHEN THE SUSPENSION IS AT FULL DROOP. IF IT DOES YOU'VE GOT A COUPLE OF WAYS TO FIX IT. ONE WAY IS TO ADD A CENTER MOUNT LIMIT STRAP ONTO YOUR REAR AXLE. PREVENT IT FROM DROOPING OUT SO FAR THAT THE SHAFT HITS. ANOTHER WAY IS TO COME IN HERE WITH A CARBIDE BURR, MAYBE A FLAP WHEEL, JUST OPEN UP THE EDGES OF THIS YOKE SLIGHTLY. YOU WANT ABOUT AND EIGHTH INCH GAP BETWEEN THE EARS OF THE DRIVESHAFT AND THE YOKE. IF YOU DON'T HAVE THAT GAP WHAT CAN HAPPEN? THE DRIVESHAFT CAN GET INTO A BIND, IT CAN SNAP THE UJOINT, WHICH WILL THEN WRECK YOUR DRIVESHAFT, WRECK YOUR BRAND NEW PINION YOKE, OR WRECK YOUR BRAND NEW TRANSFER CASE YOKE, PUTTING ALL THE MONEY YOU SPEND OUT THE WINDOW. GO AHEAD, TAKE THIS STEP, IT'LL SAVE YOU IN THE LONG RUN.
(ANNOUNCER)>> UP NEXT WE'LL HELP WILL STEWART GET THE MOST FROM HIS WELDING MACHINE.
(ANNOUNCER)>> NEED HELP SOLVING A PROBLEM WITH YOUR PROJECT?
HERE'S DRIVEWAY RESCUE.
(IAN)>> WILL STEWART IS A FAN OF XTREME OFF ROAD AND A ROCK BOUNCER WHO HAS NO FEAR IN POINTING HIS RIG AT SOME OF THE CRAZIEST HILLS IN THE SOUTH, BUT WHEN IT COMES TO PROPER WELDER SETUP, HE HAS SOME HESITATION. SO WE LOADED UP OUR ESAB REBEL WELDER TO GIVE HIM
A HAND WELDING UP HIS LATEST PROJECT.
ALRIGHT WILL, SO WE'RE HERE TO DO A LITTLE BIT OF WELDING ON YOUR BUGGY, AND I BROUGHT A COUPLE OF THINGS JUST TO SORT OF HELP YOU GET PAST THAT HUMP. YOU SAID YOU WERE HAVING A LITTLE BIT OF TROUBLE MAKING REALLY PRETTY WELDS, RIGHT?
(WILL)>> RIGHT.
(IAN)>> OKAY WELL IT'S NOT THAT HARD. IT'S JUST GONNA BE PRACTICE, AND BELIEVE IT OR NOT THERE ARE SOME THINGS THAT MAKE
A HUGE DIFFERENCE. THE FIRST IS GONNA BE WELDING WIRE, OKAY. A LOT OF PEOPLE THINK THAT ANY WELDING WIRE, IT'S GONNA BE FIRE, BUT THE REALITY IS IF JUST LIKE YOU WERE PAINTING A CAR, YOU'D WANT TO BUY REALLY GOOD PAINT, A GOOD FINISH. THE WIRE IS THE SAME DEAL. SO I BROUGHT THIS, IT'S CALLED SPOOL ARC 86. IT'S AN ESAB WIRE, AND IT'S SPECIFICALLY DESIGNED TO WELD MILD STEEL WITH A LITTLE BIT OF
MILL SCALE ON IT. SO IT'LL BURN THROUGH AND CUT IN REALLY NICE. IT MAKES A HUGE DIFFERENCE. AND THEN THE SECOND THING IS THE MACHINE. THE NICE THING ABOUT THE REBEL IS IT'LL MAKE
ANYBODY INTO A REALLY GOOD WELDER CAUSE THE COOL DEAL ABOUT THIS IS IT'S GONNA ANALYZE HOW YOU'RE WELDING WHILE YOU WELD AND IT'S GONNA ADJUST THE MACHINE FOR YOU.
(WILL)>> THAT'S AWESOME!
(IAN)>> SO WHAT WE'RE GONNA DO IS WE'RE GONNA LOAD THIS THING UP WITH SOME OF THIS WIRE. WE'LL GET THE MACHINE SETUP. I'VE GOT TO SWAP OUT THE GAS CAUSE IT'S SET UP TO TIG WELD RIGHT NOW.
OKAY THE BEAUTY OF THIS THING IS SETUP, SUPER SIMPLE, OKAY? GOT THIS LITTLE SCREEN HERE TO LOOK AT, AND ALL WE'RE AFTER RIGHT NOW IS WHAT'S CALLED SMIG, SMART MIG, AND YOU ONLY HAVE TO ANSWER A FEW QUESTIONS. SO YOU JUST CLICK ON IT.
YOU SAY SMIG, YES.
HOW BIG IS THE WIRE? I'VE GOT ZEROTHREEZERO WIRE IN THERE, YOU JUST
SAY YES, AND IT'S GONNA ASK US HOW
THICK THE STEEL IS. AND YOU'RE AT ABOUT A 10 GAUGE, MAYBE A HOT 10 GAUGE. SO THAT'S IT, YOU'RE READY TO WELD. SO ALL WE HAVE TO DO NOW IS WE'LL START WELDING. THE FIRST THREE SECONDS OF THE BEAD THE MACHINE WILL MEASURE THE FEEDBACK THROUGH THE GROUND CLAMP AND IT WILL ADJUST EVERYTHING, AND WE CAN FINE TUNE IT IF WE NEED TO BUT WE'LL GO AHEAD AND WE'LL START ON ONE OF THESE FRONT ONES, SEE WHAT IT LOOKS LIKE.
(WILL)>> ALRIGHT. [ welder crackling ]
(IAN)>> OKAY YOU CAN ACTUALLY SEE HOW IT WAS RUNNING A LITTLE BIT COLD TO START? THAT WAS THAT FIRST LITTLE INITIAL BIT. WHEN THE WELD SITS UP TALL LIKE THAT AND IS LIKE
PINCHED, IT'S JUST A LITTLE BIT COLD. SO, BUT YOU CAN SEE HOW THAT WAS THE FIRST FEW SECONDS. THEN THE MACHINE ADJUSTED AND THE WELD STARTED TO GET HOT TO ROLL IN.
(WILL)>> SO IS IT ADJUSTED NOW WHEN YOU START BACK OFF FOR YOUR SECOND WELD?
(IAN)>> YEP, IT'LL BE EVERY TIME, UNTIL WE MAKE A CHANGE ON THE MACHINE, IT IS READY TO GO FOR THIS MATERIAL WITH THIS WIRE. IT KNOWS WHAT WE WANT.
(WILL)>> AWESOME! [ welder crackling ]
(IAN)>> YOU READY TO TRY?
(WILL)>> OH YEAH.
[ welder crackling ]
(IAN)>> THAT LOOKS PRETTY DARN GOOD WILL.
SEE HOW IT LAYS IN A LITTLE FLATTER?
(WILL)>> RIGHT.
(IAN)>> THAT'S BECAUSE WHEN YOU'RE PULLING IT AWAY YOU'RE ACTUALLY DRAGGING THAT WHOLE PUDDLE WITH A LITTLE BIT MORE HEAT.
(WILL)>> SO WHICH ONE'S THE STRONGER WELD?
(IAN)>> TECHNICALLY THEY'RE BOTH, YOU CAN TELL THEY'RE BOTH STRONG. SEE THE BLUING ON BOTH SIDES? THE WELD IS BOTH FINE CAUSE YOU HAVE PENETRATION ALL THE WAY UP TO HERE AND ALL THE WAY DOWN TO THERE. [ welder crackling ]
(IAN)>> THAT'S PERFECT!
(WILL)>> LOOKING A LOT BETTER FOR SURE.
(IAN)>> YEP, IT'S ALL IT IS. IT SOUNDS STUPID BUT IT'S LIKE CONSISTENCY, TRAVEL TIME, DISTANCE, AND THEN JUST TIME, JUST TIME WELDING, JUST TIME WELDING. THE REBEL IS A TRUE MULTIPROCESS MACHINE, AND
WITH A SWAP OF THE LEADS AND A BOTTLE OF PURE ARGON, I WILL TIG IN A FEW GUSSETS ON WILL'S CHASSIS TO GIVE THIS RIG A TRUE OVER THE TOP LOOK.
WILL THANKS FOR HAVING US OUT TO WORK ON YOUR BUGGY.
(WILL)>> MAN I APPRECIATE IT.
(IAN)>> I CAN'T WAIT TO SEE THIS THING ALL TOGETHER AND ON THE TRAIL.
(WILL)>> I CAN'T WAIT TO SEE IT KILLING HILLS MYSELF.
(IAN)>> NOW YOU LEARNED A LOT TODAY ABOUT WELDING. PROBABLY ONE OF THE BEST PIECES OF ADVICE THAT I CAN GIVE YOU THOUGH IS YOU'VE JUST GOT TO PRACTICE. SO NOW YOU'VE GOT ALL THOSE LITTLE TIPS I TAUGHT YOU. NOW JUST PRACTICE THEM, AND I'M GONNA MAKE THAT EASIER FOR YOU. THE GUYS AT ESAB ARE GONNA HOOK YOU UP WITH
YOUR OWN REBEL WELDER.
(WILL)>> WHAT?
(IAN)>> YEP, THEY'RE GONNA GIVE YOU THE REBEL READY TO WELD, SAME DEAL, MIG, TIG, STICK, READY TO GO. SO WHEN YOU'RE IN YOUR SHOP HERE, WHEN YOU'RE READY TO WELD YOU DON'T HAVE TO CALL ME ANYMORE. YOU'VE GOT YOUR OWN MACHINE.
(WILL)>> I APPRECIATE THAT, I APPRECIATE THAT FROM ESAB.
(IAN)>> NO PROBLEM MAN. YOU'RE GONNA LOVE THAT MACHINE AND IT'S GONNA HELP YOU BUILD YOUR NEXT ONE.
(WILL)>> NEXT YEAR, WE'RE GONNA BUILD ANOTHER ONE JUST BECAUSE I GOT A NEW MACHINE.
(IAN)>> AWESOME THANKS AGAIN.
(WILL)>> I APPRECIATE IT.
(ANNOUNCER)>> UP NEXT, YOU CAN DO A LOT AND DO IT FAST WITH A GOOD SET OF METAL WORKING TOOLS.
(IAN)>> THERE IS NO QUESTION THAT WE HAVE A LOT OF COOL TOOLS HERE IN THE XTREME OFF ROAD SHOP.
THIS PLACE IS BASICALLY A FABRICATOR'S DREAM GARAGE. NOW A LOT OF YOU HAVE BEEN ASKING FOR MORE INFORMATION ON OUR EDWARDS MANUFACTURING IRON WORKER. NOW THIS IS A GREAT MACHINE. IT REALLY HELPS SPEED UP YOUR FABRICATION PROJECTS IN MANY DIFFERENT TYPES OF MATERIAL PROCESSES. THIS MODEL CAN EASILY SHEER UP TO THREE QUARTER INCH THICK STEEL, CUT ANGLE IRON, AND EVEN HAS AN AUTO CUT FEATURE WITH A PRESSURE SWITCH TO MAKE MULTIPLE IDENTICAL CUTS. A NIBBLER ONE END TO MAKE SMALL CUTS AND A PUNCH ON THE OTHER WITH MANY DIFFERENT SIZES AND
SHAPES OF CUTTERS. THE REASON I CHOSE THIS PARTICULAR IRON WORKER ALL REVOLVES AROUND THE PUNCH SETUP. NOW THIS MACHINE SHIPS WITH A PRETTY STANDARD SIZE PUNCH, BUT EDWARDS OFFERS AN OVERSIZE PUNCH KIT THAT REALLY HELPS WITH OFF ROAD FABRICATION. THE MACHINE IS UNPLUGGED DURING THE SWAP AND WITH THE GUARD REMOVED, THE LOWER PLATE IS UNBOLTED ALONG WITH THE UPPER PUNCH MOUNT.
THE NEW UPPER PUNCH MOUNT ASSEMBLY IS INSTALLED...
NEW LOWER PLATE, AND FINALLY THE NEW GUARD ASSEMBLY.
WITH THE OVERSIZE PUNCH KIT NOW I CAN PUNCH HUGE HOLES IN FLAT PLATE, UP TO FOUR INCHES AROUND. NOW ANYONE WHO'S BUILT ANY SERIOUS OFF ROAD CARS KNOWS THAT THAT WILL REALLY SPEED UP THE PROCESS TO ADDING THOSE BEAUTIFUL DIMPLE DYED PANELS. NO MORE HOLE SAWS NEEDED HERE IN THE XTREME SHOP. BUT HONESTLY THE MAIN REASON I CHOSE THE OVERSIZE KIT WAS FOR A VERY SPECIFIC HOLE. IF ANY OF YOU HAVE EVER TRIED TO MOUNT ONE OF
THESE CARLYLE STYLE ARB SWITCHES INTO YOUR RIG, YOU KNOW THAT GETTING THE HOLE PERFECT, IT'S KIND OF A PAIN. WELL THE COOL THING ABOUT EDWARDS IS THEY CAN CUSTOM MAKE TOOLING FOR YOU. I HAD THEM MAKE ME A PUNCH AND DYE SPECIFIC FOR THIS SWITCH. SO NOW ALL I HAVE TO DO IS PUNCH THE HOLE IN THE PANEL, POP IN THE SWITCH. BUT THE BEST PART ABOUT THE IRON WORKER IS THE ABILITY TO USE THE HYDRAULIC ACCESSORIES. BY SIMPLY PLUGGING THE HOSES INTO THE SIDE OF THE
MACHINE, THE HYDRAULIC PUMP INSIDE THE IRON
WORKER IS NOW USED TO POWER MANY DIFFERENT TYPES OF MACHINES, FROM THE 10 TON TUBING BENDER TO THE NEW RRMTWO TUBING ROLLER. HORIZONTAL PRESS, AND THEIR VERTICAL PRESS. SO AS YOU CAN SEE, AN IRON WORKER IS MORE THAN JUST A STAND ALONE MACHINE. WITH SOME TOOLING UPGRADES AND SOME ACCESSORIES, IT CAN TACKLE ANY JOB IN YOUR FAB SHOP, AND MAKE YOUR LIFE AS AN OFF ROAD FABRICATOR A LOT EASIER.
