More '69 ZL1 COPO Camaro Episodes
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Chevrolet Performance
Engine Assembly, Crate Engine, Chevy 427, 430 hp, 450 lbs./ft Torque, ZL1, Anniversary Edition, Each
Blast From the Past
Lebanon, TN - Sandblasting and Powder Coating Services
Classic Industries
'69 Camaro Front Springs
Classic Industries
12 Bolt Ring & Pinion 4.10 Ratio
Classic Industries
1967-69 Camaro/Firebird Rear Axle Spring Perches Mult-Leaf
Classic Industries
1967-69 Camaro/Firebird, 1968-76 Nova Moser C-Clip Axle, 12 Bolt, 30 Spline, 29-1/2" Long
Classic Industries
1967-69 Multi Leaf Rear Spring Plate LH/RH
Classic Industries
1967-74 Manual Disc Brake Conversion Set with Standard Rotors
Classic Industries
Auburn Gear 8 7/8" 12-Bolt 4.10 & Up - 30 Spline, 4 Series High Performance Limited-Slip Differential
Classic Industries
Manual Steering Gear Box 16:1 Ratio (4 Turns)
Classic Industries
Moser Axle C-Clip Eliminator With Moser Axles & 1.533" Bearing Seat
The Industrial Depot
Industrial Depot - Fasteners, Hardware, and Shop Supplies
Video Transcript
(ANNOUNCER)>> TODAY ON MUSCLE
CAR, EVERYBODY KNOWS THAT PUTTING FIRE BREATHING
PAVEMENT POUNDING POWER DOWN INTO A REAR END THAT'S BUILT
FOR GROCERY RETRIEVAL IS A
RECIPE FOR A PHONE CALL TO A TOW TRUCK. TODAY WE SHOW YOU HOW TO BUILD YOUR OWN BEEFY GM 12 BOLT FOR A FRACTION OF THE COST OF BUYING ONE. THEN A COOL TRICK TO INSTALL COIL SPRINGS!
(TOMMY)>> HEY FOLKS, GLAD TO SEE YOU IN THE SHOP WITH US TODAY. WE'RE BEEN CHIPPING AWAY AT OUR '69 CAMARO COPO TRIBUTE CAR, AND BEFORE YOU KNOW IT WE'LL BE READY TO DROP IN THAT CHEVROLET PERFORMANCE ZL ONE ENGINE. WE PARTNERED UP WITH CHEVROLET PERFORMANCE TO PAY HOMAGE TO
AN ICONIC PIECE OF AMERICAN MUSCLE, THE '69 ZL ONE 427 CAMARO, OF WHICH ONLY 69 WERE EVER MADE. OUR CAMARO WILL GET THIS NUMBER 426 OUT OF 427 ZL ONE ANNIVERSARY BIG BLOCK AS A POWER PLANT. AND THEN WE'RE BUILDING THE REST OF THE CAR AROUND IT TO
BE AS CLOSE AS WE CAN GET TO THE ORIGINAL COPO'S. NOW YOU CAN SEE WE'VE GOT A GOOD BIT ACCOMPLISHED ON OUR '69 CAMARO. PRETTY MUCH FROM THE FIREWALL FORWARD IT'S
ALL BUT DISASSEMBLED. WE'RE GONNA REUSE A GOOD BIT OF THAT CAUSE IT'S THE SAME STUFF THAT A COPO WOULD HAVE ORIGINALLY HAD ON IT. THAT'S ENOUGH ABOUT ALL THAT, WE'LL GET ON IT A LITTLE LATER ON. WE ALSO FINISHED UP PATCHING UP ON QUARTER PANELS WHERE SOME RUST HAD STARTED TO TAKE A HOLD. IN ADDITION TO GETTING THE FLOOR PANS SQUARED AWAY. THE REAR END THAT'S TIED INTO THIS CHEVY IS THE SMALL 10
BOLT SETUP, WHICH IS PERFECTLY FINE FOR THE 307 THAT THIS CAR HAS ALWAYS BEEN RUNNING. BUT THE GM BIG POWER CARS OF THE DAY WERE RUNNING A 12 BOLT SETUP. THAT WAS MORE CAPABLE OF HANDLING THE ABUSE. SO TO KEEP OUR CAMARO ON THE RIGHT TRACK WE NEED TO INSTALL A 12 BOLT. THE PROBLEM IS THOSE THINGS CAN GO FOR UP TO $2,000 JUST FOR AN EMPTY HOUSING. I'VE SEEN IT AT THE SWAP MEETS, BUT I BELIEVE I CAN BEAT ALL THAT.
GO FROM BRAKE DRUM TO BRAKE DRUM WITH UPGRADED PARTS FOR LESS CASH. SO THIS IS MY IDEA, IS TO TAKE A 12 BOLT REAR OUT OF AN IMPALA, CHOP IT DOWN, NARROW IT UP SO IT'S THE SAME WIDTH AS THE ONE FOR THE CAMARO. THAT WAY WE'LL HAVE US A STRONGER UNIT WHEN WE'RE ALL SAID AND DONE, AND IT'LL BE EASIER ON YOUR WALLET TOO. THESE LUG NUTS HAVEN'T BEEN OFF IN WHO KNOWS HOW LONG. SO A LITTLE ROYAL PURPLE MAX FILM WILL GO A LONG WAY IN GETTING THEM OFF THE STUDS. THE NEXT RUSTY OLD PART THAT'S STUCK ON THE REAR IS THE BRAKE DRUMS. SOMETIMES YOU CAN SAVE THEM. THAT'S NOT LOOKING LIKE IT'S GONNA BE THE CASE HERE THOUGH. WELL, WE'RE FIXING TO TRY SOMETHING THAT NORMALLY YOU DON'T REALLY BUT SOMETIMES YOU GOT TO.
I'M GONNA TRY TO SPLIT THIS BRAKE DRUM TO RELEASE THAT PRESSURE IN THERE. I'M GONNA HAVE TO SACRIFICE THAT OLD BRAKE DRUM, BUT I DON'T THINK IT'S ANY GOOD NO HOW.
NOW YOU CAN SEE THAT ALL THE PITTING, AND GARBAGE, AND STUFF DOWN HERE THAT'S FELL OUT OF THAT DRUM THAT CHANCES
ARE THAT DRUM WAS WAY TO RUSTY TO EVEN FOOL WITH.
SO, YEAH WE DID DESTROY IT, BUT IT WAS ALREADY PIECES OF SCRAP IRON BEFORE WE GOT STARTED. WHOO, I'M OUT OF SHAPE. YEAH, SEE THE PAINT.
NOW SOMETIMES IF YOU CAN'T GET THE BRAKE DRUMS OFF IT'S ACTUALLY CORROSION BUILT UP AROUND THIS STUB ON THE AXLE SHAFTS. SCRAPE THIS STUFF OFF, I MAY HAVE TO FILE IT OFF. MAKE IT A LITTLE EASIER TO GET SOME THINGS OFF. DEFINITELY CAN'T HURT. BUT INSTEAD OF WORKING WITH THIS THING TRYING TO SAVE ALL THIS STUFF, WE'RE NOT GONNA USE IT ANYWAYS. SO I'M JUST GONNA BUST IT OFF LIKE I DID THE OTHER TIME. THE THING IS I'M PUSHING THIS BRAKE DRUM OFF. YOU'LL SEE THIS IS ACTUALLY HOLDING ITSELF IN, WHAT I WAS TALKING ABOUT.
NOW SOMETIMES REMOVING BRAKE CABLES, THEY CAN BE QUITE A CHORE BECAUSE YOU'VE GOT TO PUSH THIS LITTLE FINGER DOWN,
THAT LITTLE FINGER DOWN, AND THERE'S ANOTHER ONE BACK OFF IN THERE. A COOL LITTLE TRICK TO USE IS A WRENCH. ALL YOU'VE GOT TO DO IS SLIDE IT ON THERE, TAP IT DOWN, THAT COMPRESSES THOSE FINGERS, MAKE THAT CABLE BACK OUT.
NOW WE DON'T GET TO USE THE TORCH A WHOLE LOT HERE IN THE SHOP, BUT IT'S ONE OF THOSE TYPE OF TOOLS THAT DEFINITELY HAS ITS USES. NOW USING A TORCH IS ACTUALLY KIND OF A TECHNIQUE I LIKE TO USE WHENEVER CUTTING OFF BRACKETS.
WHAT YOU WANT TO DO IS PAY ATTENTION TO THE FLAMES COMING OUT OF THE TIP AND ANGLE IT SO THAT YOU'RE JUST CUTTING ACROSS THE WELD THAT ATTACHES THE BRACKET TO THE REAR. IF YOU TRY TO TURN IT YOU COULD ACTUALLY DIG INTO THE TUBE AND THEN YOU'D HAVE TO GO BACK AND GRIND AND WELD AND FIX ALL THAT TO MAKE IT LOOK LIKE SOMETHING. WE'LL JUST PAY ATTENTION TO WHAT'S GOING ON. ANOTHER THING YOU WANT TO KEEP IN MIND WHEN YOU'RE CUTTING PIECES AND THEY'RE GONNA FALL, MAKE SURE YOU PAY ATTENTION TO WHERE YOUR HOSE IS AT. YOU DON'T WANT THIS TO FALL, CHOP IT IN TWO.
(ANNOUNCER)>> CHOPPING UP A REAR END HOUSING CAN BE INTIMIDATING. NEXT WE'VE GOT A GREAT LITTLE PIECE OF ENGINEERING THAT MAKES IT SUPER SIMPLE TO MAKE THIS AFFORDABLE MODIFICATION.
(TOMMY)>> HEY GUYS, I'M GLAD YOU MADE IT BACK FROM THE BREAK. WHILE YOU WERE GONE I WENT AHEAD AND REMOVED THE AXLE
SHAFTS AND THE BACKING PLATES FROM OUR 12 BOLT AND THE ONES OUT OF OUR 10 BOLT. I WANTED TO SHOW YOU THE DIFFERENCE IN THE SIZE OF THEM SO YOU COULD KINDA SEE WHAT THE STRENGTH DIFFERENCE OF THE TWO IS. NOW THIS LITTLE GREASY ONE, IT'S THE FACTORY 28 SPLINE THAT CAME OUT OF THE CAMARO. THIS 30 SPLINE, YOU CAN DEFINITELY SEE WHY THEY WOULD HAVE PUT THAT IN THE HIGHER HORSEPOWER CARS. IF YOU LOOK DOWN HERE TO WHERE THE BEARING ACTUALLY RUNS OUT
TOWARDS THE WHEELS, IT'S A LOT EASIER TO SEE THE DIFFERENCE
IN THE SIZE OF THE TWO. BUT THAT'S NO PROBLEM AT ALL BECAUSE WE GOT THIS MOSSIER ENGINEERING AXLE FROM CLASSIC INDUSTRIES. IT'S THE CORRECT SPLINE, IT'S THE CORRECT LENGTH TO FIT OUR '69 CAMARO, AND IT'S A LOT STRONGER THAN THIS FACTORY SET UP. A WEAK POINT OF THIS TRADITIONAL
UNIT IS RIGHT HERE. A CCLIP ACTUALLY SLIDES IN TO KEEP THE AXLE FROM SLIDING OUT OF THE HOUSING. NOW IF YOU START PUTTING THIS TYPE OF SETUP UNDER SOME HEAVY LATERAL MOVEMENT, THEY HAVE BEEN KNOWN TO BREAK. ALSO IF YOU'RE DRAG RACING SOME AND YOU TWIST AN AXLE OUT, THE SHAFT IS GOING TO RUN OUT FROM UNDER THE CAR AND YOU'RE FIXING TO GO FOR ONE HECK OF A RIDE. THE REALLY NEAT PART OF THIS MOSSIER SETUP IS RIGHT HERE. THIS BIG BEARING AND AXLE HOUSING END ALLOW US TO ELIMINATE THE CCLIP ALL TOGETHER. IN ADDITION TO LETTING US NARROW THE HOUSING EASILY WITHOUT HAVING TO DEAL WITH A WHOLE BUNCH OF JUST EXTRA FAB WORK. THIS PREFAB PIECE IS THE PART THAT ALLOWS YOU TO DO THIS AT HOME. IT'S NOT ALL THAT BAD, LET ME SHOW YOU HOW TO DO IT. LETS FIND OUT HOW WIDE THE IMPALA REAR IS. THAT WAS 58 AND THREEEIGHTHS. OUR ORIGINAL CAMARO HOUSING IS 54 AND THREEEIGHTHS. WE'VE GOT TO SHORTEN IT ABOUT TWO INCHES PER SIDE. THAT DOESN'T MEAN YOU CAN JUST CHOP OFF TWO INCHES ON EACH SIDE. YOU'VE GOT TO ACCOUNT FOR THIS THING, THE AXLE FLANGE END. IF YOU JUST CUT THE TWO INCHES AND WELDED THIS BACK ON, IT WOULD PUT YOU AT ALMOST EXACTLY WHERE WE STARTED. THAT'S TWO AND THREEEIGHTHS, SO WE'LL JUST ADD THAT TO THE TWO INCHES ON EACH SIDE, CHOP IT OFF, WE'LL BE READY TO GO. ALRIGHT, WE'VE GOT THEM MARKED, FOUR AND THREEEIGHTHS. THEN I'M GONNA USE A HANDY LITTLE OLE HOSE CLAMP. THESE THINGS WORK REALLY NICE AT KEEPING YOUR NICE, STRAIGHT EDGE. NOW YOU MAY HAVE TO WIGGLE IT AROUND A LITTLE BIT TO GET IT EXACTLY WHERE YOU WANT IT, BUT THAT'S THE BEAUTY OF THAT CLAMP, IT'S EASY TO MOVE.
MAKE SURE IT'S TIGHT, DON'T WIGGLE AROUND ON YOU. I'M USING A RECIPROCATING SAW BECAUSE A LOT OF YOU GUYS AT HOME WOULD HAVE SOMETHING LIKE THIS. NOW YOU COULD USE A CUTOFF WHEEL BUT YOU DON'T WANT TO USE A TORCH BECAUSE IF YOU START DOING THAT YOU'D HAVE TO COME BACK AND DRESS ALL THAT UP WITH A GRINDER. SO WE'LL SEE HOW THIS WORKS. NOW WE NEED TO LEVEL THE OTHER AXLE IN, THAT WAY WE KNOW HOW TO CLOCK THE OTHER SIDE. THE REASON WE DO THAT IS THAT WAY WE CAN MATCH THE LEFT AND RIGHT SIDE TO MAKE SURE THAT THE BRAKES ARE IN THE PROPER LOCATION. WITH OUR MARK MADE THE NEXT THING WE'RE GONNA DO IS TO BEVEL THIS AXLE TUBE A LOT LIKE THIS AXLE END. THAT WAY IT INSURES A GOOD, SOLID WELD. THE NEXT THING WE'RE GONNA DO IS SLIDE THE AXLE SHAFT IN. GO AHEAD AND SPLINE IT INTO THE CARRIER. THAT WAY WE'RE GONNA USE THE AXLE SHAFT TO HELP LOCATE THIS AXLE END. YOU CAN SEE THAT IT'S GOT UP, DOWN, AND FRONT TO REAR TYPE MOVEMENT ON IT, AND YOU WANT IT TO BE IN THE HAPPY MEDIUM OF ALL FOUR. THAT WAY THE BEARINGS DON'T HAVE PRELOAD ALREADY ON THEM. NOW WITH THAT TACKED INTO PLACE IF YOU SLIDE THE AXLE OUT, YOU WANT IT TO HAVE PRETTY MUCH NO BINDING AT ALL. YOU CAN SEE THAT WE'RE PRETTY MUCH RIGHT THERE AT IT. NOW IT'S TIME TO BURN IT IN.
(ANNOUNCER)>> COMING UP, TOMMY SHOWS US A DOWN HOME METHOD FOR SETTING YOUR PINION ANGLE AND BRACKET PLACEMENT.
(TOMMY)>> HEY GUYS, WE'RE ON THE DOWNHILL SLIDE OF BUILDING OUR 12 BOLT FOR OUR CAMARO PROJECT. WE'VE GOT THE AXLE TUBES NARROWED DOWN AND THE AXLE ENDS WELDED UP. WE'RE READY TO MOVE ON TO PUTTING THE LEAF SPRING PERCHES ON THAT WE GOT FROM CLASSIC INDUSTRIES. NOW WE WENT AHEAD AND REMOVED THE OLD REAR OUT FROM UNDER OUR CAMARO BECAUSE IT'S GOT SOME INFORMATION THAT'S A WHOLE LOT EASIER TO COPY SITTING OUT HERE ON THE TABLE. NOW YOU MAY BE NOTICING THAT THERE'S A LITTLE BIT OF DIFFERENCE BETWEEN THE TWO. THAT'S BECAUSE THE ORIGINAL ONE THAT CAME OUT FROM UNDER OUR CAMARO IS THINNER BECAUSE IT CAME WITH THE MONOLEAF OR SINGLE LEAF SPRING. WHERE THE COPO'S, THEY HAD A MULTILEAF PACK, THAT'S THE
REASON WHY THEY'RE THICKER. NOW MY OLE TWO BY FOURS HERE MAY LOOK A LITTLE PRIMITIVE, BUT HEY IT WORKS BECAUSE WHAT WE'VE GOT TO DO IS CLOCK THESE THINGS CORRECTLY ONTO THE REAR BY MEASURING THE PINION ANGLE. THE FIRST THING YOU NEED TO DO IS PICK UP THE HOUSING, SET THE PERCH UP UNDER IT. NOW WE NEED TO MEASURE FROM WHERE THE VACUUM PLATE GOES ON TO THE LEAF SPRING PERCH, AND THEN DUPLICATE THAT ON THE OTHER REAR END. SHOOT, WE HIT IT DEAD ON. WE'RE ALMOST READY TO SET THE PINION ANGLE, BUT FIRST WE
NEED TO DO A LITTLE PREP WORK TO INSURE A GOOD, SOLID WELD. SO WE NEED TO MARK THIS THING, TAKE IT BACK APART, DO A LITTLE GRINDING, THEN WE'LL BE JUST ABOUT READY TO BURN SOME WIRE. THE REASON YOU DO THIS IS SO THAT YOU'RE NOT WELDING OVER THE TOP OF RUST CAUSE WELDING AND RUST JUST DON'T PLAY WELL TOGETHER. SO THERE'S NO REASON TO PUT YOUR LIFE IN THE HANDS OF A NASTY, RUSTY WELD. ONCE IT'S GROUND DOWN PUT YOUR BRACKETS BACK ON, DOUBLE CHECK THE MEASUREMENTS, CALL IT GOOD. ALRIGHT, WE'RE READY TO SET THE PINION ANGLE. FIRST I'M GONNA MEASURE THE ANGLE OF THE 10 BOLT SO WE KNOW EXACTLY WHERE WE NEED TO BE. NEXT WE'RE GONNA PUT THAT MEASUREMENT OVER HERE
ON TOP OF OUR NEW ONE. YOU WANT TO DO THAT, THAT WAY YOU MAKE SURE YOU DON'T HAVE ANY DRIVE SHAFT OR OILING ISSUES ON THE INSIDE OF THE CASE. ONCE YOUR ANGLE IS SET, YOU CAN TACK THE BRACKETS IN PLACE, TRIPLE CHECK YOUR PLACEMENT, AND THEN BURN THEM IN. I FIND IT A LOT BETTER TO FLIP THE HOUSING OVER SO THAT YOU CAN GET TO THE WORK SURFACE EASILY. NOW WHENEVER YOU'RE WORKING WITH THE BACKING PLATES ON
THESE 12 BOLTS, THEY'VE GOT A COUPLE OF DIFFERENT PATTERNS. THIS IS THE DIFFERENCE IN THE TWO. THEY'VE GOT ONE THAT'S CALLED THE TRUCK PATTERN, WHICH THE UPPER AND LOWER HOLES ARE THE SAME WIDTH. WHERE ON THE CAR PATTERN THE UPPER HOLES ARE WIDER THAN THE BOTTOM TWO ARE. I USE A COUPLE OF BOLTS TO HOLD MY BACKING PLATE IN PLACE. THE PROBLEM IS OUR BACKING PLATE HOLE IS A LITTLE BIT SMALLER THAN THE BIG BEARING SETUP THAT
WE'RE GOING WITH NOW.
BUT IT'S NOT REAL BIG ISSUE. I'LL JUST TAKE A PIC, SET IT HERE ON THE INSIDE, KIND OF SCRIBE OR SCRATCH.
NOW YOU CAN SEE THE AMOUNT THAT WE'VE GOT TO TAKE OFF AROUND THE PERIMETER OF THIS THING TO ENLARGE IT JUST A BIT. NOW WE'VE GOT TO GO GET UP CLOSE AND PERSONAL WITH SOME CUDDLE TIME WITH THE CARBIDE BIT.
ALRIGHT, OUT NEXT STEP IS TO TOSS IN A SET OF 4.10 GEARS AND A POS UNIT THAT WE GOT FROM CLASSIC INDUSTRIES. NOW YOU GUYS HAVE SEEN US DO THIS A NUMBER OF TIMES.
SO WE'RE NOT GONNA FOOL WITH SHOWING THAT TO YOU RIGHT NOW. BUT IF YOU'RE INTERESTED IN SEEING IT, JUST GO OVER TO POWERBLOCK TV DOT COM AND YOU CAN FIND IT ON THERE. BUT AS FOR NOW I'VE GOT A LITTLE BIT OF WORK TO DO. SO IF YOU GUYS WANT TO STICK AROUND, MANK'S GOT SOMETHING HE'D LIKE TO SHOW YOU.
(ANNOUNCER)>> NOBODY LIKES COMPRESSING COIL SPRINGS BUT UP AHEAD WE'VE GOT A GREAT WAY TO DO IT EASILY AND SAFELY.
(STEVE)>> HEY GUYS, WELCOME BACK.
WHILE TOMMY'S GOT THE 12 BOLT REAR AXLE OF OUR COPO CAMARO TAKEN CARE OF. AND ONCE THE FIREWALL AND THE BELLY OF THE CAR GET PAINTED IT'LL BE READY TO INSTALL. WELL I GUESS SINCE HE DID THE BACK HALF OF THE CAR, I'VE GOT TO GET BUSY ON THE FRONT. SO LETS GET GOING. WE'RE GONNA USE THE FACTORY SUBFRAME THAT WE TOOK OUT OF THE CAR TO KEEP IT AS CLOSE AS WE CAN TO THE ORIGINAL COPO CAMARO. ONCE WE DETACHED IT FROM THE CAR AND TOOK OFF ALL ITS RELATED COMPONENTS, WE TOOK IT TO LEBANON, TENNESSEE, TO OUR FRIENDS AT BLAST FROM THE PAST. THEY COMPLETELY BLASTED IT OF COURSE WITH MEDIA TO GIVE US A CLEAN SLATE TO WORK WITH. AFTER WE RETRIEVED OUR FRONT END AND ALL OF ITS PARTS, WE ROUNDED UP OUR RESIDENT PAINT GUN SLINGER, TOMMY, AND HE CAMPED OUT IN THE SPRAY BOOTH FOR A LITTLE WHILE AND GOT AFTER IT WITH SOME SATIN BLACK PAINT, WHICH WILL HELP US KEEP THE FACTORY LOOK WE WERE CHASING AFTER.
FOR NOW LETS GET ALL THIS BACK ON THE FRONT END. WE'LL HAVE ONE LESS THING TO WORRY ABOUT. OKAY GUYS, AS YOU CAN SEE, WE'RE GETTING READY TO PUT THE
LOWER CONTROL ARMS IN THE CAR ALONG WITH THE COIL SPRINGS. IF YOU'VE DONE THIS YOU KNOW IT'S NOT A FUN JOB.
MOST COIL SPRING COMPRESSORS ARE NOTHING MORE THAN EXTERNALLY MOUNTED THREAD RODS, AND SOMETIMES THEY CAN BE DANGEROUS. WHAT I LIKE TO DO IS TAKE A SINGLE PIECE OF THREADED ROD IF YOU HAVE THE ROOM AND THE AVAILABILITY OF SPACE TO DO SO, AND PUT A SINGLE ROD UP THROUGH THE CENTER OF THE COIL SPRING AND BRING THE AARM STRAIGHT UP, WHICH WILL KEEP IT FROM GOING ANYWHERE SHOULD ANY TYPE OF ACCIDENT TRY TO HAPPEN. IT'LL ALL BE CONTAINED INSIDE OF ITSELF. THE REASON I LIKE TO DO IT THIS WAY WHENEVER POSSIBLE IS I CAN PULL THE COIL SPRING STRAIGHT UP INTO ITSELF INSTEAD OF PULLING IT AT AN ANGLE, WHICH IS
WHERE THE DANGER LIES. IT MAKES IT A LOT SAFER.
I PUT A CALL IN TO CLASSIC INDUSTRIES SO WE CAN GET OUR
HANDS ON SOME DISC BRAKE SPINDLES TO REPLACE THE
FACTORY STYLE DRUM ONES. IT'S TIME TO PUT A STEERING BOX IN OUR SUBFRAME. WE'VE OPTED FOR A 16 TO ONE MANUAL UNIT THAT WE GOT FROM CLASSIC INDUSTRIES.
WE DECIDED TO GO WITH A 16 TO ONE UNIT BECAUSE THIS IS GOING TO BE A PERFORMANCE ORIENTED CAR. WE WANT TO BE ABLE TO MAINTAIN TIGHT STEERING CONTROL AND THIS ONE TURNS MORE QUICKLY THAN THE 20 AND 24 TO ONE MODELS THEY ALSO OFFER.
THESE 11 INCH ROTORS ALSO CAME FROM CLASSIC INDUSTRIES AS PART OF THE DISC BRAKE CONVERSION KIT THAT INCLUDES EVERYTHING YOU NEED TO MAKE A COMPLETE CHANGE
OVER FROM DRUM TO DISC. WELL THERE YOU, THE BASIC FRONT END REBUILD WE'VE DONE ON OUR '69 CAMARO INCLUDING SUSPENSION, BRAKES, AND STEERING ARE PRETTY SIMILAR TO MOST CARS FROM THE MUSCLE CAR ERA.
WITH A LITTLE HELP FROM CLASSIC INDUSTRIES WE'VE DONE SOME UPGRADES THAT ALLOWED US TO MAINTAIN THE STOCK LOOK WE
WERE LOOKING FOR BUT GIVE US THE PERFORMANCE WE WERE AFTER. IF YOU GOT ANY QUESTIONS ABOUT ANYTHING YOU SAW ON THE SHOW TODAY.
(TOMMY)>> GO OVER TO POWERBLOCK TV DOT COM.
Show Full Transcript
RECIPE FOR A PHONE CALL TO A TOW TRUCK. TODAY WE SHOW YOU HOW TO BUILD YOUR OWN BEEFY GM 12 BOLT FOR A FRACTION OF THE COST OF BUYING ONE. THEN A COOL TRICK TO INSTALL COIL SPRINGS!
(TOMMY)>> HEY FOLKS, GLAD TO SEE YOU IN THE SHOP WITH US TODAY. WE'RE BEEN CHIPPING AWAY AT OUR '69 CAMARO COPO TRIBUTE CAR, AND BEFORE YOU KNOW IT WE'LL BE READY TO DROP IN THAT CHEVROLET PERFORMANCE ZL ONE ENGINE. WE PARTNERED UP WITH CHEVROLET PERFORMANCE TO PAY HOMAGE TO
AN ICONIC PIECE OF AMERICAN MUSCLE, THE '69 ZL ONE 427 CAMARO, OF WHICH ONLY 69 WERE EVER MADE. OUR CAMARO WILL GET THIS NUMBER 426 OUT OF 427 ZL ONE ANNIVERSARY BIG BLOCK AS A POWER PLANT. AND THEN WE'RE BUILDING THE REST OF THE CAR AROUND IT TO
BE AS CLOSE AS WE CAN GET TO THE ORIGINAL COPO'S. NOW YOU CAN SEE WE'VE GOT A GOOD BIT ACCOMPLISHED ON OUR '69 CAMARO. PRETTY MUCH FROM THE FIREWALL FORWARD IT'S
ALL BUT DISASSEMBLED. WE'RE GONNA REUSE A GOOD BIT OF THAT CAUSE IT'S THE SAME STUFF THAT A COPO WOULD HAVE ORIGINALLY HAD ON IT. THAT'S ENOUGH ABOUT ALL THAT, WE'LL GET ON IT A LITTLE LATER ON. WE ALSO FINISHED UP PATCHING UP ON QUARTER PANELS WHERE SOME RUST HAD STARTED TO TAKE A HOLD. IN ADDITION TO GETTING THE FLOOR PANS SQUARED AWAY. THE REAR END THAT'S TIED INTO THIS CHEVY IS THE SMALL 10
BOLT SETUP, WHICH IS PERFECTLY FINE FOR THE 307 THAT THIS CAR HAS ALWAYS BEEN RUNNING. BUT THE GM BIG POWER CARS OF THE DAY WERE RUNNING A 12 BOLT SETUP. THAT WAS MORE CAPABLE OF HANDLING THE ABUSE. SO TO KEEP OUR CAMARO ON THE RIGHT TRACK WE NEED TO INSTALL A 12 BOLT. THE PROBLEM IS THOSE THINGS CAN GO FOR UP TO $2,000 JUST FOR AN EMPTY HOUSING. I'VE SEEN IT AT THE SWAP MEETS, BUT I BELIEVE I CAN BEAT ALL THAT.
GO FROM BRAKE DRUM TO BRAKE DRUM WITH UPGRADED PARTS FOR LESS CASH. SO THIS IS MY IDEA, IS TO TAKE A 12 BOLT REAR OUT OF AN IMPALA, CHOP IT DOWN, NARROW IT UP SO IT'S THE SAME WIDTH AS THE ONE FOR THE CAMARO. THAT WAY WE'LL HAVE US A STRONGER UNIT WHEN WE'RE ALL SAID AND DONE, AND IT'LL BE EASIER ON YOUR WALLET TOO. THESE LUG NUTS HAVEN'T BEEN OFF IN WHO KNOWS HOW LONG. SO A LITTLE ROYAL PURPLE MAX FILM WILL GO A LONG WAY IN GETTING THEM OFF THE STUDS. THE NEXT RUSTY OLD PART THAT'S STUCK ON THE REAR IS THE BRAKE DRUMS. SOMETIMES YOU CAN SAVE THEM. THAT'S NOT LOOKING LIKE IT'S GONNA BE THE CASE HERE THOUGH. WELL, WE'RE FIXING TO TRY SOMETHING THAT NORMALLY YOU DON'T REALLY BUT SOMETIMES YOU GOT TO.
I'M GONNA TRY TO SPLIT THIS BRAKE DRUM TO RELEASE THAT PRESSURE IN THERE. I'M GONNA HAVE TO SACRIFICE THAT OLD BRAKE DRUM, BUT I DON'T THINK IT'S ANY GOOD NO HOW.
NOW YOU CAN SEE THAT ALL THE PITTING, AND GARBAGE, AND STUFF DOWN HERE THAT'S FELL OUT OF THAT DRUM THAT CHANCES
ARE THAT DRUM WAS WAY TO RUSTY TO EVEN FOOL WITH.
SO, YEAH WE DID DESTROY IT, BUT IT WAS ALREADY PIECES OF SCRAP IRON BEFORE WE GOT STARTED. WHOO, I'M OUT OF SHAPE. YEAH, SEE THE PAINT.
NOW SOMETIMES IF YOU CAN'T GET THE BRAKE DRUMS OFF IT'S ACTUALLY CORROSION BUILT UP AROUND THIS STUB ON THE AXLE SHAFTS. SCRAPE THIS STUFF OFF, I MAY HAVE TO FILE IT OFF. MAKE IT A LITTLE EASIER TO GET SOME THINGS OFF. DEFINITELY CAN'T HURT. BUT INSTEAD OF WORKING WITH THIS THING TRYING TO SAVE ALL THIS STUFF, WE'RE NOT GONNA USE IT ANYWAYS. SO I'M JUST GONNA BUST IT OFF LIKE I DID THE OTHER TIME. THE THING IS I'M PUSHING THIS BRAKE DRUM OFF. YOU'LL SEE THIS IS ACTUALLY HOLDING ITSELF IN, WHAT I WAS TALKING ABOUT.
NOW SOMETIMES REMOVING BRAKE CABLES, THEY CAN BE QUITE A CHORE BECAUSE YOU'VE GOT TO PUSH THIS LITTLE FINGER DOWN,
THAT LITTLE FINGER DOWN, AND THERE'S ANOTHER ONE BACK OFF IN THERE. A COOL LITTLE TRICK TO USE IS A WRENCH. ALL YOU'VE GOT TO DO IS SLIDE IT ON THERE, TAP IT DOWN, THAT COMPRESSES THOSE FINGERS, MAKE THAT CABLE BACK OUT.
NOW WE DON'T GET TO USE THE TORCH A WHOLE LOT HERE IN THE SHOP, BUT IT'S ONE OF THOSE TYPE OF TOOLS THAT DEFINITELY HAS ITS USES. NOW USING A TORCH IS ACTUALLY KIND OF A TECHNIQUE I LIKE TO USE WHENEVER CUTTING OFF BRACKETS.
WHAT YOU WANT TO DO IS PAY ATTENTION TO THE FLAMES COMING OUT OF THE TIP AND ANGLE IT SO THAT YOU'RE JUST CUTTING ACROSS THE WELD THAT ATTACHES THE BRACKET TO THE REAR. IF YOU TRY TO TURN IT YOU COULD ACTUALLY DIG INTO THE TUBE AND THEN YOU'D HAVE TO GO BACK AND GRIND AND WELD AND FIX ALL THAT TO MAKE IT LOOK LIKE SOMETHING. WE'LL JUST PAY ATTENTION TO WHAT'S GOING ON. ANOTHER THING YOU WANT TO KEEP IN MIND WHEN YOU'RE CUTTING PIECES AND THEY'RE GONNA FALL, MAKE SURE YOU PAY ATTENTION TO WHERE YOUR HOSE IS AT. YOU DON'T WANT THIS TO FALL, CHOP IT IN TWO.
(ANNOUNCER)>> CHOPPING UP A REAR END HOUSING CAN BE INTIMIDATING. NEXT WE'VE GOT A GREAT LITTLE PIECE OF ENGINEERING THAT MAKES IT SUPER SIMPLE TO MAKE THIS AFFORDABLE MODIFICATION.
(TOMMY)>> HEY GUYS, I'M GLAD YOU MADE IT BACK FROM THE BREAK. WHILE YOU WERE GONE I WENT AHEAD AND REMOVED THE AXLE
SHAFTS AND THE BACKING PLATES FROM OUR 12 BOLT AND THE ONES OUT OF OUR 10 BOLT. I WANTED TO SHOW YOU THE DIFFERENCE IN THE SIZE OF THEM SO YOU COULD KINDA SEE WHAT THE STRENGTH DIFFERENCE OF THE TWO IS. NOW THIS LITTLE GREASY ONE, IT'S THE FACTORY 28 SPLINE THAT CAME OUT OF THE CAMARO. THIS 30 SPLINE, YOU CAN DEFINITELY SEE WHY THEY WOULD HAVE PUT THAT IN THE HIGHER HORSEPOWER CARS. IF YOU LOOK DOWN HERE TO WHERE THE BEARING ACTUALLY RUNS OUT
TOWARDS THE WHEELS, IT'S A LOT EASIER TO SEE THE DIFFERENCE
IN THE SIZE OF THE TWO. BUT THAT'S NO PROBLEM AT ALL BECAUSE WE GOT THIS MOSSIER ENGINEERING AXLE FROM CLASSIC INDUSTRIES. IT'S THE CORRECT SPLINE, IT'S THE CORRECT LENGTH TO FIT OUR '69 CAMARO, AND IT'S A LOT STRONGER THAN THIS FACTORY SET UP. A WEAK POINT OF THIS TRADITIONAL
UNIT IS RIGHT HERE. A CCLIP ACTUALLY SLIDES IN TO KEEP THE AXLE FROM SLIDING OUT OF THE HOUSING. NOW IF YOU START PUTTING THIS TYPE OF SETUP UNDER SOME HEAVY LATERAL MOVEMENT, THEY HAVE BEEN KNOWN TO BREAK. ALSO IF YOU'RE DRAG RACING SOME AND YOU TWIST AN AXLE OUT, THE SHAFT IS GOING TO RUN OUT FROM UNDER THE CAR AND YOU'RE FIXING TO GO FOR ONE HECK OF A RIDE. THE REALLY NEAT PART OF THIS MOSSIER SETUP IS RIGHT HERE. THIS BIG BEARING AND AXLE HOUSING END ALLOW US TO ELIMINATE THE CCLIP ALL TOGETHER. IN ADDITION TO LETTING US NARROW THE HOUSING EASILY WITHOUT HAVING TO DEAL WITH A WHOLE BUNCH OF JUST EXTRA FAB WORK. THIS PREFAB PIECE IS THE PART THAT ALLOWS YOU TO DO THIS AT HOME. IT'S NOT ALL THAT BAD, LET ME SHOW YOU HOW TO DO IT. LETS FIND OUT HOW WIDE THE IMPALA REAR IS. THAT WAS 58 AND THREEEIGHTHS. OUR ORIGINAL CAMARO HOUSING IS 54 AND THREEEIGHTHS. WE'VE GOT TO SHORTEN IT ABOUT TWO INCHES PER SIDE. THAT DOESN'T MEAN YOU CAN JUST CHOP OFF TWO INCHES ON EACH SIDE. YOU'VE GOT TO ACCOUNT FOR THIS THING, THE AXLE FLANGE END. IF YOU JUST CUT THE TWO INCHES AND WELDED THIS BACK ON, IT WOULD PUT YOU AT ALMOST EXACTLY WHERE WE STARTED. THAT'S TWO AND THREEEIGHTHS, SO WE'LL JUST ADD THAT TO THE TWO INCHES ON EACH SIDE, CHOP IT OFF, WE'LL BE READY TO GO. ALRIGHT, WE'VE GOT THEM MARKED, FOUR AND THREEEIGHTHS. THEN I'M GONNA USE A HANDY LITTLE OLE HOSE CLAMP. THESE THINGS WORK REALLY NICE AT KEEPING YOUR NICE, STRAIGHT EDGE. NOW YOU MAY HAVE TO WIGGLE IT AROUND A LITTLE BIT TO GET IT EXACTLY WHERE YOU WANT IT, BUT THAT'S THE BEAUTY OF THAT CLAMP, IT'S EASY TO MOVE.
MAKE SURE IT'S TIGHT, DON'T WIGGLE AROUND ON YOU. I'M USING A RECIPROCATING SAW BECAUSE A LOT OF YOU GUYS AT HOME WOULD HAVE SOMETHING LIKE THIS. NOW YOU COULD USE A CUTOFF WHEEL BUT YOU DON'T WANT TO USE A TORCH BECAUSE IF YOU START DOING THAT YOU'D HAVE TO COME BACK AND DRESS ALL THAT UP WITH A GRINDER. SO WE'LL SEE HOW THIS WORKS. NOW WE NEED TO LEVEL THE OTHER AXLE IN, THAT WAY WE KNOW HOW TO CLOCK THE OTHER SIDE. THE REASON WE DO THAT IS THAT WAY WE CAN MATCH THE LEFT AND RIGHT SIDE TO MAKE SURE THAT THE BRAKES ARE IN THE PROPER LOCATION. WITH OUR MARK MADE THE NEXT THING WE'RE GONNA DO IS TO BEVEL THIS AXLE TUBE A LOT LIKE THIS AXLE END. THAT WAY IT INSURES A GOOD, SOLID WELD. THE NEXT THING WE'RE GONNA DO IS SLIDE THE AXLE SHAFT IN. GO AHEAD AND SPLINE IT INTO THE CARRIER. THAT WAY WE'RE GONNA USE THE AXLE SHAFT TO HELP LOCATE THIS AXLE END. YOU CAN SEE THAT IT'S GOT UP, DOWN, AND FRONT TO REAR TYPE MOVEMENT ON IT, AND YOU WANT IT TO BE IN THE HAPPY MEDIUM OF ALL FOUR. THAT WAY THE BEARINGS DON'T HAVE PRELOAD ALREADY ON THEM. NOW WITH THAT TACKED INTO PLACE IF YOU SLIDE THE AXLE OUT, YOU WANT IT TO HAVE PRETTY MUCH NO BINDING AT ALL. YOU CAN SEE THAT WE'RE PRETTY MUCH RIGHT THERE AT IT. NOW IT'S TIME TO BURN IT IN.
(ANNOUNCER)>> COMING UP, TOMMY SHOWS US A DOWN HOME METHOD FOR SETTING YOUR PINION ANGLE AND BRACKET PLACEMENT.
(TOMMY)>> HEY GUYS, WE'RE ON THE DOWNHILL SLIDE OF BUILDING OUR 12 BOLT FOR OUR CAMARO PROJECT. WE'VE GOT THE AXLE TUBES NARROWED DOWN AND THE AXLE ENDS WELDED UP. WE'RE READY TO MOVE ON TO PUTTING THE LEAF SPRING PERCHES ON THAT WE GOT FROM CLASSIC INDUSTRIES. NOW WE WENT AHEAD AND REMOVED THE OLD REAR OUT FROM UNDER OUR CAMARO BECAUSE IT'S GOT SOME INFORMATION THAT'S A WHOLE LOT EASIER TO COPY SITTING OUT HERE ON THE TABLE. NOW YOU MAY BE NOTICING THAT THERE'S A LITTLE BIT OF DIFFERENCE BETWEEN THE TWO. THAT'S BECAUSE THE ORIGINAL ONE THAT CAME OUT FROM UNDER OUR CAMARO IS THINNER BECAUSE IT CAME WITH THE MONOLEAF OR SINGLE LEAF SPRING. WHERE THE COPO'S, THEY HAD A MULTILEAF PACK, THAT'S THE
REASON WHY THEY'RE THICKER. NOW MY OLE TWO BY FOURS HERE MAY LOOK A LITTLE PRIMITIVE, BUT HEY IT WORKS BECAUSE WHAT WE'VE GOT TO DO IS CLOCK THESE THINGS CORRECTLY ONTO THE REAR BY MEASURING THE PINION ANGLE. THE FIRST THING YOU NEED TO DO IS PICK UP THE HOUSING, SET THE PERCH UP UNDER IT. NOW WE NEED TO MEASURE FROM WHERE THE VACUUM PLATE GOES ON TO THE LEAF SPRING PERCH, AND THEN DUPLICATE THAT ON THE OTHER REAR END. SHOOT, WE HIT IT DEAD ON. WE'RE ALMOST READY TO SET THE PINION ANGLE, BUT FIRST WE
NEED TO DO A LITTLE PREP WORK TO INSURE A GOOD, SOLID WELD. SO WE NEED TO MARK THIS THING, TAKE IT BACK APART, DO A LITTLE GRINDING, THEN WE'LL BE JUST ABOUT READY TO BURN SOME WIRE. THE REASON YOU DO THIS IS SO THAT YOU'RE NOT WELDING OVER THE TOP OF RUST CAUSE WELDING AND RUST JUST DON'T PLAY WELL TOGETHER. SO THERE'S NO REASON TO PUT YOUR LIFE IN THE HANDS OF A NASTY, RUSTY WELD. ONCE IT'S GROUND DOWN PUT YOUR BRACKETS BACK ON, DOUBLE CHECK THE MEASUREMENTS, CALL IT GOOD. ALRIGHT, WE'RE READY TO SET THE PINION ANGLE. FIRST I'M GONNA MEASURE THE ANGLE OF THE 10 BOLT SO WE KNOW EXACTLY WHERE WE NEED TO BE. NEXT WE'RE GONNA PUT THAT MEASUREMENT OVER HERE
ON TOP OF OUR NEW ONE. YOU WANT TO DO THAT, THAT WAY YOU MAKE SURE YOU DON'T HAVE ANY DRIVE SHAFT OR OILING ISSUES ON THE INSIDE OF THE CASE. ONCE YOUR ANGLE IS SET, YOU CAN TACK THE BRACKETS IN PLACE, TRIPLE CHECK YOUR PLACEMENT, AND THEN BURN THEM IN. I FIND IT A LOT BETTER TO FLIP THE HOUSING OVER SO THAT YOU CAN GET TO THE WORK SURFACE EASILY. NOW WHENEVER YOU'RE WORKING WITH THE BACKING PLATES ON
THESE 12 BOLTS, THEY'VE GOT A COUPLE OF DIFFERENT PATTERNS. THIS IS THE DIFFERENCE IN THE TWO. THEY'VE GOT ONE THAT'S CALLED THE TRUCK PATTERN, WHICH THE UPPER AND LOWER HOLES ARE THE SAME WIDTH. WHERE ON THE CAR PATTERN THE UPPER HOLES ARE WIDER THAN THE BOTTOM TWO ARE. I USE A COUPLE OF BOLTS TO HOLD MY BACKING PLATE IN PLACE. THE PROBLEM IS OUR BACKING PLATE HOLE IS A LITTLE BIT SMALLER THAN THE BIG BEARING SETUP THAT
WE'RE GOING WITH NOW.
BUT IT'S NOT REAL BIG ISSUE. I'LL JUST TAKE A PIC, SET IT HERE ON THE INSIDE, KIND OF SCRIBE OR SCRATCH.
NOW YOU CAN SEE THE AMOUNT THAT WE'VE GOT TO TAKE OFF AROUND THE PERIMETER OF THIS THING TO ENLARGE IT JUST A BIT. NOW WE'VE GOT TO GO GET UP CLOSE AND PERSONAL WITH SOME CUDDLE TIME WITH THE CARBIDE BIT.
ALRIGHT, OUT NEXT STEP IS TO TOSS IN A SET OF 4.10 GEARS AND A POS UNIT THAT WE GOT FROM CLASSIC INDUSTRIES. NOW YOU GUYS HAVE SEEN US DO THIS A NUMBER OF TIMES.
SO WE'RE NOT GONNA FOOL WITH SHOWING THAT TO YOU RIGHT NOW. BUT IF YOU'RE INTERESTED IN SEEING IT, JUST GO OVER TO POWERBLOCK TV DOT COM AND YOU CAN FIND IT ON THERE. BUT AS FOR NOW I'VE GOT A LITTLE BIT OF WORK TO DO. SO IF YOU GUYS WANT TO STICK AROUND, MANK'S GOT SOMETHING HE'D LIKE TO SHOW YOU.
(ANNOUNCER)>> NOBODY LIKES COMPRESSING COIL SPRINGS BUT UP AHEAD WE'VE GOT A GREAT WAY TO DO IT EASILY AND SAFELY.
(STEVE)>> HEY GUYS, WELCOME BACK.
WHILE TOMMY'S GOT THE 12 BOLT REAR AXLE OF OUR COPO CAMARO TAKEN CARE OF. AND ONCE THE FIREWALL AND THE BELLY OF THE CAR GET PAINTED IT'LL BE READY TO INSTALL. WELL I GUESS SINCE HE DID THE BACK HALF OF THE CAR, I'VE GOT TO GET BUSY ON THE FRONT. SO LETS GET GOING. WE'RE GONNA USE THE FACTORY SUBFRAME THAT WE TOOK OUT OF THE CAR TO KEEP IT AS CLOSE AS WE CAN TO THE ORIGINAL COPO CAMARO. ONCE WE DETACHED IT FROM THE CAR AND TOOK OFF ALL ITS RELATED COMPONENTS, WE TOOK IT TO LEBANON, TENNESSEE, TO OUR FRIENDS AT BLAST FROM THE PAST. THEY COMPLETELY BLASTED IT OF COURSE WITH MEDIA TO GIVE US A CLEAN SLATE TO WORK WITH. AFTER WE RETRIEVED OUR FRONT END AND ALL OF ITS PARTS, WE ROUNDED UP OUR RESIDENT PAINT GUN SLINGER, TOMMY, AND HE CAMPED OUT IN THE SPRAY BOOTH FOR A LITTLE WHILE AND GOT AFTER IT WITH SOME SATIN BLACK PAINT, WHICH WILL HELP US KEEP THE FACTORY LOOK WE WERE CHASING AFTER.
FOR NOW LETS GET ALL THIS BACK ON THE FRONT END. WE'LL HAVE ONE LESS THING TO WORRY ABOUT. OKAY GUYS, AS YOU CAN SEE, WE'RE GETTING READY TO PUT THE
LOWER CONTROL ARMS IN THE CAR ALONG WITH THE COIL SPRINGS. IF YOU'VE DONE THIS YOU KNOW IT'S NOT A FUN JOB.
MOST COIL SPRING COMPRESSORS ARE NOTHING MORE THAN EXTERNALLY MOUNTED THREAD RODS, AND SOMETIMES THEY CAN BE DANGEROUS. WHAT I LIKE TO DO IS TAKE A SINGLE PIECE OF THREADED ROD IF YOU HAVE THE ROOM AND THE AVAILABILITY OF SPACE TO DO SO, AND PUT A SINGLE ROD UP THROUGH THE CENTER OF THE COIL SPRING AND BRING THE AARM STRAIGHT UP, WHICH WILL KEEP IT FROM GOING ANYWHERE SHOULD ANY TYPE OF ACCIDENT TRY TO HAPPEN. IT'LL ALL BE CONTAINED INSIDE OF ITSELF. THE REASON I LIKE TO DO IT THIS WAY WHENEVER POSSIBLE IS I CAN PULL THE COIL SPRING STRAIGHT UP INTO ITSELF INSTEAD OF PULLING IT AT AN ANGLE, WHICH IS
WHERE THE DANGER LIES. IT MAKES IT A LOT SAFER.
I PUT A CALL IN TO CLASSIC INDUSTRIES SO WE CAN GET OUR
HANDS ON SOME DISC BRAKE SPINDLES TO REPLACE THE
FACTORY STYLE DRUM ONES. IT'S TIME TO PUT A STEERING BOX IN OUR SUBFRAME. WE'VE OPTED FOR A 16 TO ONE MANUAL UNIT THAT WE GOT FROM CLASSIC INDUSTRIES.
WE DECIDED TO GO WITH A 16 TO ONE UNIT BECAUSE THIS IS GOING TO BE A PERFORMANCE ORIENTED CAR. WE WANT TO BE ABLE TO MAINTAIN TIGHT STEERING CONTROL AND THIS ONE TURNS MORE QUICKLY THAN THE 20 AND 24 TO ONE MODELS THEY ALSO OFFER.
THESE 11 INCH ROTORS ALSO CAME FROM CLASSIC INDUSTRIES AS PART OF THE DISC BRAKE CONVERSION KIT THAT INCLUDES EVERYTHING YOU NEED TO MAKE A COMPLETE CHANGE
OVER FROM DRUM TO DISC. WELL THERE YOU, THE BASIC FRONT END REBUILD WE'VE DONE ON OUR '69 CAMARO INCLUDING SUSPENSION, BRAKES, AND STEERING ARE PRETTY SIMILAR TO MOST CARS FROM THE MUSCLE CAR ERA.
WITH A LITTLE HELP FROM CLASSIC INDUSTRIES WE'VE DONE SOME UPGRADES THAT ALLOWED US TO MAINTAIN THE STOCK LOOK WE
WERE LOOKING FOR BUT GIVE US THE PERFORMANCE WE WERE AFTER. IF YOU GOT ANY QUESTIONS ABOUT ANYTHING YOU SAW ON THE SHOW TODAY.
(TOMMY)>> GO OVER TO POWERBLOCK TV DOT COM.