Classic Chevy Paint Repair & Payoff

(ANNOUNCER)>> TODAY WE'RE BACK ON OUR 1953 CHEVY 3100.

WE'LL SHOW YOU THE BEST WAY TO TIME THE 235 STRAIGHT SIX. THEN WE'RE STRIPPING OFF THE WEATHER DAMAGED PAINT AND LAYING DOWN A NEW COAT. AND FINALLY WE'LL BUFF UP THE OLD PAINT TO MATCH THE NEW AND TAKE IT OUT FOR A SPIN. IT'S ALL TODAY HERE ON TRUCK TECH.

(RYAN)>> HEY, WELCOME TO TRUCK TECH. NOW YOU GUYS REMEMBER OUR 1953 CHEVY 3100 THAT WE PICKED UP FROM COUNTRY MUSIC ARTIST KRISTA MARIE UP AT FONTANEL NOT TOO LONG AGO. NOW WE'VE ALREADY ADDED SOME HOP UP PARTS TO THE

ENGINE, ALONG WITH INSTALLING A POWER DISC BRAKE CONVERSION AND SOME NEW TIRES AND WHEELS. SO THIS THING'S RUNNING BETTER AND LOOKING BETTER. NOW TODAY WE'RE GONNA SHOW YOU THE RATHER UNIQUE PROCESS OF SETTING THE IGNITION TIMING ON THIS OLD 235 STRAIGHT SIX. WE'RE ALSO GONNA FRESHEN UP THE PAINT THAT'S STILL GOOD BUT JUST HAS A LITTLE WEAR AND TEAR ON IT. AND WE'RE GONNA DO A FEW PAINT REPAIRS TO THE AREAS WHERE IT'S NOT SO GOOD.

(JEREMY)>> NOW WHILE WE WERE THROWING A FEW PERFORMANCE PARTS AT THIS ENGINE WE DECIDED TO PUT IN A DISTRIBUTOR. BUT BEFORE I PULLED OUT THE OLD DISTRIBUTOR I MADE A FEW DETAILED MARKS. SO I KNEW WHEN I SLID THE NEW ONE BACK IN AT LEAST WE'D BE CLOSE ENOUGH TO FIRE IT UP. AND WHAT'S UNIQUE ABOUT THESE OLD 235'S IS THERE'S NO TIMING MARKS ON THE BALANCER, WHICH MOST PEOPLE ARE PROBABLY USED TO. AND THE WAY THE OLD TIMERS USED TO SET IT WAS ACTUALLY BY EAR. THEY WOULD ADVANCE THE TIMING ENOUGH UNTIL THE ENGINE STARTED SOUNDING A LITTLE LAZY. THEN THEY WOULD BACK IT BACK OFF AND THAT WAS GOOD ENOUGH TO RUN IT AROUND ON THE RANCH. BUT SINCE WE LIKE TO DO THINGS THE RIGHT WAY IN HERE, I'M GONNA SHOW YOU HOW TO SET IT WITH A TIMING LIGHT. NOW THERE'S A TRICK TO USING A TIMING

LIGHT ON THIS OLD 235. THERE'S ACTUALLY A TIMING BALL MOUNTED INTO THE

FLYWHEEL THAT WE'RE GONNA PAINT WHITE, THAT WAY TO HELP OUR TIMING LIGHT PICK IT UP.

AND YOU CAN SEE THAT WE'VE ROTATED THE FLYWHEEL AROUND TO THE TIMING WINDOW, WHERE THERE'S THE TIMING POINTER AND THE TIMING BALL THAT'S BEEN DISCOLORED WITH AGE. SO WE'RE GONNA THROW A LITTLE WHITE PAINT ON IT.

FIRST WE'LL CONNECT OUR TIMING LIGHT TO OUR NUMBER ONE PLUG WIRE.

THEN WE'LL CLAMP OFF OUR VACUUM ADVANCE TO BE SURE WE GET AN ACCURATE TIMING. NOW I THINK OUR TIMING IS A LITTLE ADVANCED, AND WITH THE TIMING LIGHT ILLUMINATING THE WINDOW, I'LL START TO TURN THE DISTRIBUTOR CLOCKWISE,

WHICH WILL RETARD THE TIMING UNTIL WE START TO SEE OUR FRESHLY PAINTED MARK COME UP. YOU CAN DEFINITELY SEE HOW THE FRESH PAINT HELPS TO ALIGN THE TIMING BALL WITH THE MARK ON THE BELL HOUSING. THIS WAY WE KNOW OUR TIMING IS RIGHT ON THE MONEY.

NOW YOU GUYS MAY REMEMBER THE LAST TIME WE HAD THIS TRUCK IN THE SHOP DOING OUR ENGINE UPGRADES WE REPLACED THE OE DISTRIBUTOR WITH A BRAND NEW ONE. BUT BEFORE WE INSTALLED IT WE UPGRADED IT TO THIS PERTRONIX IGNITOR TWO ELECTRONIC IGNITION. AND AS FAR AS INSTALLATION, WELL IT'S ABOUT AS SIMPLE AS IT GETS. HERE'S HOW IT INSTALLS.

NOW FIRST WE'LL START BY REMOVING ALL THE OE COMPONENTS.

WE'LL REMOVE THE POWER WIRE INSIDE THE DISTRIBUTOR. NEXT WE'LL REMOVE THE POINTS. THEN THE CONDENSER, FOLLOWED BY THE POWER BLOCK WHERE OUR NEW ELECTRONIC IGNITION WIRES WILL FEED BACK THROUGH THE HOUSING.

AND ONE OF THE BEST REASONS TO UPGRADE TO THIS ELECTRONIC IGNITION IS THE FACT THAT THERE'S NO MECHANICAL PARTS COMING INTO CONTACT. THIS WAY YOU'RE NOT HAVING TO CHANGE POINTS ANY MORE, WHICH BASICALLY MAKES IT MAINTENANCE FREE. IT EVEN SENSES START UP AND DELIVERS MORE POWER TO

GET YOU STARTED QUICKER.

AND WITH THE IGNITOR TWO INSTALLED FOLLOWED BY THE ROTOR BUTTON, ALL YOU HAVE TO DO IS INSTALL A CAP AND IT'S READY TO GO IN THE TRUCK.

NOW WITH THE TRUCK IN THE PREP BOOTH I'M GONNA START MASKING OUT AROUND THE ROOF TO PROTECT THE REST

OF THE TRUCK FROM ANY SANDING DEBRIS OR DUST THAT WE'RE GONNA CREATE. NOW SOME OF THE PAINT ISSUES WE WERE REFERRING TO WERE A FEW SPOTS ON THE ROOF LIKE THIS ONE HERE, WHICH COULD HAVE BEEN CAUSED BY BAD PREP WORK, WHICH WOULD CAUSE POOR ADHESION. OR SURFACE RUST COULD HAVE STARTED, WHICH CAUSED THE PAINT TO BUBBLE UP. BUT IT'S SOMETHING WE DEFINITELY NEED TO ADDRESS BECAUSE IF WE WERE TO LEAVE THIS, PROBABLY IN A COUPLE OF YEARS THERE'D BE A BIG HOLE IN THE ROOF. SO LET'S STRIP THIS DOWN AND SEE WHAT WE'VE GOT.

FIRST I'M GONNA START OFF WITH A SCRAPER JUST TO KNOCK OFF ANY LOOSE PAINT, JUST TO GET BACK TO WHERE I KNOW THERE'S GOOD ADHESION.

I'M GONNA FOLLOW THAT WITH 80 GRIT ON A DA TO ROUGH

UP SURFACE, KNOCK OFF ANY RUST THAT'S THERE, AND ALSO FEATHER BACK THE PAINT ENOUGH THAT OUR PUTTY WILL MAKE A GOOD TRANSITION. NOW THE DA'S DOING A GOOD JOB HERE OF TELLING ME THE TRUTH. THERE'S A LOT MORE PAINT AND RUST HERE THAN I WOULD LIKE TO SEE.

NOW WHEN WE STARTED GETTING INTO A FEW OTHER SPOTS ON THIS ROOF WE REALIZED IT WAS A LITTLE WORSE THAN WHAT WE THOUGHT. IT LOOKS LIKE THE ENTIRE ROOF IS SURFACE RUST, AND

TO DO A PROPER REPAIR LIKE THAT WE WOULD NEED TO STRIP THE ENTIRE ROOF. AND ALSO WITH THERE BEING 13 LAYERS OF PAINT ON THIS OLE TRUCK, REALLY THE WHOLE TRUCK NEEDS TO BE STRIPPED. BUT FOR THE CONTEXT OF THIS SHOW, WE'RE GONNA PICK THE WORST SPOTS ON THIS ROOF, SHOW YOU HOW TO REPAIR THOSE, AND AT LEAST WE'LL PRESERVE THE TRUCK LONG ENOUGH UNTIL SOMEBODY CAN GIVE IT THE ATTENTION IT DESERVES.

(ANNOUNCER)>> AFTER THE BREAK WE'LL REPAIR THE DAMAGE TO THE ROOF AND MAKE IT RIGHT AGAIN. AND LATER WE'LL HIT THE STREETS FOR A TEST DRIVE, STAY TUNED!

(JEREMY)>> HEY GUYS WELCOME BACK TO TRUCK

TECH, AND THE PAINT REPAIR ON OUR '53 CHEVY 3100. NOW WITH OUR AREA STRIPPED DOWN TO BARE METAL AND MOST OF THE RUST GONE, WE'LL GO AHEAD AND HIT IT WITH LOCTITE EXTEND RUST TREATMENT. THIS WAY WE'LL KNOW THE RUST WON'T COME BACK. AND LOCTITE RECOMMENDS THAT IT SETS FOR 24 HOURS AND YOU'LL KNOW IT'S WORKING WHEN IT STARTS TO CHANGE COLORS.

NOW IT'S BASICALLY A PRIMER. SO ALL I'M GONNA DO IS BUZZ BACK OVER IT WITH 80 GRIT ON A DA AND ROUGH UP THE SURFACE ENOUGH THAT I KNOW MY PUTTY'S GETTING GOOD ADHESION.

THEN WE'LL SPREAD A LAYER OF POLYESTER FINISHING PUTTY. AND ONCE THAT SET UP FOR ABOUT 10 MINUTES WE'LL HIT IT WITH 80 GRIT ON A LONG BLOCK, FOLLOWED BY 180. AND YOU'LL KNOW IT'S READY FOR PRIMER WHEN YOU CAN FEEL A SMOOTH TRANSITION FROM THE

PUTTY TO THE PAINT.

NOW IF I WERE REPAIRING JUST THIS ONE SPOT, I WOULD MASK AROUND IT AND ONLY PRIME IT. BUT SINCE I'VE REPAIRED A FEW AREAS AROUND THE ROOF, I'M GONNA GO AHEAD AND PREP IT FOR PAINT. THIS WAY IF I GET PRIMER SOMEWHERE THAT I DIDN'T WANT AT LEAST I KNOW IT STILL HAS GOOD ADHESION.

NOW WITH THAT DONE WE'LL WIPE THE ROOF DOWN WITH A LITTLE WAX AND GREASE REMOVER TO KNOW WE

HAVE A CLEAN SURFACE. THEN WE'LL HIT IT WITH A FEW COATS OF HIGH BUILD PRIMER. NOW WHEN I SPRAY PRIMER, I LIKE TO USE A GUN THAT HAS

AROUND A ONEEIGHT TIP. THAT WAY YOU GET A GOOD EVEN FLOW SINCE IT'S SO THICK.

AND I LIKE TO SPRAY IT WITH ABOUT 35 PSI AT THE INLET OF THE GUN. NOW WITH THE PRIMER CURED WE'LL SPREAD OUT A LITTLE DRY GUIDE COAT ON ALL THE AREAS THAT WE PRIMED. THIS WAY WHEN WE BLOCK IF THERE'S ANY IMPERFECTIONS, THEY'LL SHOW UP. AND THE REASON I LIKE USING A GUIDE COAT SO MUCH IS THAT YOU DON'T HAVE TO GUESS. IF THERE'S A LOW SPOT THERE, IT'S EASY TO SEE.

AND THE FIRST ROUND OF SANDING WE DID WITH 180. AND SINCE WE DIDN'T BREAK THROUGH ANYWHERE WE WENT AHEAD AND REGUIDE COATED, HIT IT WITH 320, AND IT'S READY FOR PAINT. NOW WITH A ROUND SPOT LIKE THIS THAT YOU CAN'T GET A FLAT BLOCK ON YOU CAN USE A FLEXIBLE BLOCK. AND WHAT THIS DOES, IT FOLLOWS THE CONTOUR OF THE ROOF AND DOESN'T CREATE ANY FLAT SPOTS. BUT ON A FLAT AREA LIKE THIS I LIKE TO USE THE LONGEST BLOCK POSSIBLE, AND THIS DEFINITELY HELPS TO GET THE AREA STRAIGHT AND ALSO DOES IT IN A HURRY.

NEXT WE'LL REMOVE OUR PROTECTING MASKING AND

SAND AROUND THE EDGES WITH 320. THIS WAY WE KNOW WE GET GOOD ADHESION BEFORE WE'RE READY TO ROLL IT IN THE BOOTH. NOW WITH THE TRUCK IN THE BOOTH AND ALL MASKED OFF WE'LL HIT IT WITH ONE FINAL ROUND OF WAX AND GREASE REMOVER. ONE OF THE GREAT THINGS ABOUT THIS PARTICULAR TRUCK AND THE PANEL WE'RE DOING A REPAIR ON IS THE

FACT THAT WE HAVE THESE BODY LINES TO MASK TO. THIS WAY WE DON'T HAVE TO TRY AND BURN IN ANY CLEAR OR DO ANY CRAZY MASKING JUST TO GET THE PAINT TO BLEND IN. THE FACT THAT THESE BODY LINES ARE SO SHARP WE CAN TAPE RIGHT UP TO THEM, PROBABLY HARDLY BE NOTICEABLE.

AND WITH ONE FINAL DUST OFF WE'LL HIT IT WITH A TACK RAG BEFORE WE'RE READY TO SPRAY.

NOW WE DECIDED TO USE A BLACK SEALER ON OUR ROOF TO CUT DOWN ON THE AMOUNT OF BASE WE WOULD HAVE TO USE. WE WENT WITH PPG'S DP 90, WHICH IS AN EPOXY PRIMER BUT REDUCED DOWN MAKES IT A SEALANT, AND ONE COAT GETS IT COVERED.

MY GUN OF CHOICE IS AN IWATA LPH 400 WITH A ONEFOUR TIP. AND WHEN I SPRAY SEALER I SPRAY IT ABOUT 35 PSI AT THE INLET OF THE GUN WITH ABOUT A 50 TO 60 PERCENT OVERLAP. AND WITH MY SEALER ESSENTIALLY ALL I'M TRYING TO DO IS GET THE TOP OF THE ROOF ONE COLOR BEFORE WE SPRAY ON OUR BASE. NOW I KNOW IT'S PROBABLY HARD TO SEE BUT WE'RE FOLLOWING THAT SEALER WITH A COUPLE OF COATS OF BLACK BASE, AND ALL MY GUN SETTINGS ARE PRETTY MUCH THE SAME ALONG WITH MY SPRAY PATTERN. AND LIKE WE DID ON NIGHTRAIN, I'M NOT PAINTING THE ENTIRE ROOF, I'M JUST DOING A BLEND.

NOW AFTER ABOUT 15 TO 20 MINUTES OF FLASH TIME WE'RE READY FOR A FEW COATS OF CLEAR, AND THE ONLY THING I LIKE TO DO DIFFERENT IS BUMP UP MY PRESSURE A LITTLE BIT TO ABOUT 40 PSI AT THE INLET OF THE GUN. I FEEL THIS HELPS TO ATOMIZE THE CLEAR AND REDUCE ORANGE PEEL. AND ONE ADVANTAGE TO THIS IS THAT IT WILL REDUCE OR EVEN ELIMINATE ANY BUFFING WE MAY HAVE TO DO

TO THIS ROOF LATER. AND WHEN WE'RE ALL DONE WE WILL HAVE APPLIED THREE COATS OF CLEAR TO THIS ROOF.

(ANNOUNCER)>> WHEN WE COME BACK JEREMY WILL SHOW US HOW TO TAKE THE YEARS OFF OLD PAINT AND MAKE IT SHINE LIKE NEW, STICK AROUND!

(JEREMY)>> HEY GUYS, WELCOME BACK TO THE SHOP. NOW THAT WE'VE GOT OUR ROOF REPAIRED AND PAINTED, THIS THING'S STARTING TO LOOK REALLY GOOD, AND OUR NEXT STEPS ARE TO TRY TO MAKE THIS OLD PAINT LOOK LIKE THE NEW. AND I'VE ALREADY TAKEN THE TIME TO BUFF OUT THE DRIVER'S SIDE, AND YOU CAN REALLY SEE THE DIFFERENCE. NOW WE'LL TAKE THOSE SAME STEPS, BUFF OUT THE PASSENGER SIDE, TAKE SOME YEARS OFF THIS OLD PAINT. NOW SINCE THE PAINT ON THIS TRUCK IS PROBABLY 20 PLUS YEARS OLD, WE DON'T WANT TO DO ANYTHING

TOO AGGRESSIVE. SO WE'RE NOT GONNA DO ANY WET SANDING OR EVEN HIT IT WITH A WOOL PAD. WE'RE GONNA START OUT WITH THIS WHITE FOAM PAD THAT'S A LITTLE LESS AGGRESSIVE WITH A RUBBING COMPOUND WITH THE BUFFER AT ABOUT 1,800 RPMS. AND WHAT THAT'S GONNA DO IS GET RID OF SOME OF THOSE FINE SCRATCHES AND DULLNESS THAT'S ALL OVER THE TRUCK. THEN WE'RE GONNA HIT IT WITH A BLACK PAD WITH A POLISH AT ABOUT 1,000 RPMS, AND THAT'LL TAKE AWAY ANY SWIRLS WE CREATED WITH THIS PAD, GIVE IT SOME GOOD PAINT PROTECTION, AND A NICE SHINE. WE'LL START BY BLOWING OFF THE HOOD TO REMOVE ANY DIRT AND DEBRIS, FOLLOWED BY A MIST OF WATER AND A MICROFIBER TOWEL JUST TO BE SURE WE'VE GOT EVERYTHING REMOVED.

FIRST UP WE'LL START OFF WITH A RUBBING COMPOUND. THERE'S A COUPLE OF WAYS YOU CAN DO THIS. I LIKE TO APPLY IT DIRECTLY TO THE HOOD AND SLOWLY WORK IT IN WITH THE BUFFER, BUT YOU CAN APPLY IT WITH A PAPER TOWEL AND SPREAD IT OUT THAT WAY AND NOT CREATE SO MUCH OF A MESS. WHEN I'M WORKING A LARGE AREA LIKE THIS HOOD, I LIKE TO BREAK IT DOWN INTO SECTIONS. SO USING THE SAME RUBBING COMPOUND, I'LL START WORKING MY WAY AROUND THE HOOD. NOW USUALLY AFTER EACH PASS WITH THE BUFFER I'LL WIPE IT DOWN WITH A MICROFIBER TOWEL JUST TO SEE HOW MUCH PROGRESS I MADE AND SEE HOW MANY OF THOSE SCRATCHES I'VE GOTTEN OUT. NOW THIS OLD TRUCK'S GONNA NEED QUITE A BIT OF WORK.

SO I'M GONNA HIT IT ONE MORE TIME. AND ONCE MY COMPOUND STARTS TO HAZE OVER I'LL HIT IT WITH A LITTLE SPRAY DETAILER JUST TO HELP CLEAN IT OFF. AND NOW ONCE I'M HAPPY WITH THAT AREA I'LL GO AHEAD AND MOVE ON TO ANOTHER SECTION.

NOW THE MICROFIBER REALLY REVEALS WHAT'S UNDER THE DRIED COMPOUND. AND THIS WAY WE KNOW WE'RE READY TO MOVE ON TO THE NEXT STEP. AND THE NEXT STEP IS A POLISH WITH THE BLACK PAD, AND REMEMBER THIS IS AT A LOWER RPM. AND ESSENTIALLY ALL WE'RE DOING IS TRYING TO REMOVE OUR SWIRLS AND REVEAL A GOOD SHINE.

AND SINCE THIS TRUCK SITS OUTSIDE SO MUCH, THIS'LL GIVE IT A GOOD U/V PROTECTION AS WELL. AND LASTLY WE'LL HIT IT WITH A MICROFIBER TOWEL AND REVEAL THAT SHINE WE WERE LOOKING FOR. NOW THAT DEFINITELY LOOKS A WHOLE LOT BETTER. AND THE PAINT ON THIS OLD TRUCK IS BY NO MEANS PERFECT, BUT IT'S AMAZING WHAT YOU CAN DO JUST

SPENDING A LITTLE TIME ON IT WITH A BUFFER. SO IF YOU'VE GOT A HALF A DAY OR MORE TO SPEND IN YOUR GARAGE WITH YOUR OLD TRUCK, YOU'LL BE SURPRISED WHAT YOU CAN DO. WELL I'VE GOT THE REST OF THIS TRUCK TO BUFF, SO I BETTER GET AFTER IT.

(ANNOUNCER)>> UP NEXT, THE '53 SHINES AND RIDES AGAIN, DON'T GO AWAY!

(JEREMY)>> HEY GUYS, WELCOME BACK TO TRUCK TECH, AND THE TEST DRIVE OF OUR UPGRADED 1953 CHEVY 3100. NOW WITH THE NEW DUAL CARB SETUP WE ADDED TO THIS TRUCK YOU CAN DEFINITELY TELL AN INCREASE IN PERFORMANCE, ESPECIALLY OVER THE OLD SINGLE CARB WHERE WE WERE GETTING A LITTLE BIT OF HESITATION AND A LITTLE MISS HERE AND THERE. ALONG WITH THE INTAKE AND THE NEW MANIFOLD YOU CAN TELL IT'S DEFINITELY PICKED UP A LOT.

NOW IF YOU REMEMBER THIS TRUCK IS OWNED BY COUNTRY MUSIC ARTIST KRISTA MARIE FROM THE BAND THE FARM. AND NOT ONLY HAS SHE USED IT IN HER MUSIC VIDEOS, SHE WOULD LIKE TO HAVE IT AS HER DAILY DRIVER.

SO SHE BROUGHT IT TO US SO WE COULD GET IT MORE DAILY DRIVER FRIENDLY. NOW WITH THE NEW DISC BRAKE SETUP ALONG WITH THE BOOSTER AND NEW MASTER CYLINDER IT DEFINITELY HELPS THE WAY THIS TRUCK STOPS. BEFORE WITH THE OLD DRUM BRAKES YOU COULD HARDLY GET IT TO STOP. YOU HAD TO PUT THE PEDAL TO THE FLOOR. SO IT'S DEFINITELY A WHOLE LOT BETTER FOR DRIVING ON THE HIGHWAY NOW. AND NOT ONLY DID THE NEW WHEELS AND TIRES HELP THE LOOKS OF THIS TRUCK, WITH THE OLD 14'S AND DRY ROTTED TIRES WE WERE RUNNING AROUND ON, WE WERE GETTING A LOT OF VIBRATION IN THE STEERING WHEEL. AND WITH THESE NEW TIRES YOU CAN DEFINITELY FEEL HOW THEY'RE HUGGING TO THE ROAD AND THERE'S NO VIBRATION IN THE STEERING WHEEL.

I'M REALLY PLEASED WITH HOW THE PAINT MATCHED ON THE ROOF OF THIS TRUCK. THAT'S ONE GREAT THING ABOUT BLACK. YOU CAN ALMOST PANEL PAINT WITHOUT HAVING TO BLEND. AND FOR YOU GUYS AT HOME WITH A BLACK VEHICLE, THAT'S A GREAT THING. NOW WE DIDN'T MESS WITH THE STOCK SUSPENSION ON OUR TRUCK. WE COULD GO IN AND PUT A NEW SUSPENSION, MAYBE LOWER THE TRUCK DOWN A LITTLE BIT, GET A LITTLE BETTER PERFORMANCE OUT OF OUR SUSPENSION ALONG WITH A LOT BETTER RIDE QUALITY.

NOW WE'VE ADDED A LOT OF PERFORMANCE PARTS TO THIS TRUCK AND WE DEFINITELY HELPED IT A LOT. BUT IT'S NOT REALLY THERE YET.

IT COULD USE NEW POWER STEERING, WHICH WOULD BE A GOOD THING FOR KRISTA MARIE SINCE SHE WANTS TO DRIVE THIS TRUCK DAILY. BUT EVEN WITHOUT IT THIS TRUCK'S A BLAST TO DRIVE.

(RYAN)>> IF YOU'VE GOT A '94 OR NEWER DODGE, CHANCES ARE PRETTY GOOD THAT YOUR TRUCK SUFFERS FROM THE KINDA COMMON CRACKED DASH PROBLEM. WELL LMC TRUCK'S GOT THE SOLUTION TO THAT IN THE FOR OF THEIR REPLACEMENT DASH PADS. THIS HAPPENS TO BE FOR AN '02 TO '05.

NOW IT'S MADE OF A HEAT RESISTANT THERMOPLASTIC TO AVOID SHRINKING AND FADING, AND IT COMES WITH THE APILLAR GASKET AND DEFROSTER VENTS ALREADY INSTALLED. SO IF YOU WANT TO FRESHEN UP THE INSIDE OF YOUR '94 TO 2012 DODGE, CHECK OUT THE REPLACEMENT INTERIOR PARTS FROM LMC. NOW IF YOU'RE IN THE MARKET FOR A WELDING HELMET OR YOU JUST WANT TO PICK UP A NEW ONE THAT SEPARATES YOU FROM THE REST OF THE CROWD, WELL CHECK OUT THESE CUSTOM DESIGNED WELDING HELMETS FROM MATCO TOOLS. THIS IS THEIR DAY OF THE DEAD DESIGN, AND THIS IS

OBVIOUSLY THEIR AMERICAN THEMED PATRIOTIC DESIGN HELMET. AND THEY HAVE ALL THE FEATURES YOU'VE COME TO EXPECT FROM THESE. A LARGER VIEWING AREA, LOTS OF SHADE ADJUSTMENT, AND A GRINDING MODE. SO IF YOU'RE LOOKING FOR A COOL NEW WELDING HELMET, GET A HOLD OF YOUR LOCAL MATCO DISTRIBUTOR. NOW IF YOU'RE DOING SOME SUSPENSION WORK AND YOU WANT MORE THAN WHAT A POLYURETHANE OR RUBBER BUSHING CAN GIVE YOU, CHECK OUT THE SUSPENSION COMPONENTS AND RELATED HARDWARE FROM CURRIE ENTERPRISES. THEY'VE GOT THEIR WELL KNOWN FORGED JOHNNY JOINTS AVAILABLE IN A VARIETY OF SIZES, THREADED TUBE INSERTS, JOHNNY JOINTS IN UNIVERSAL AND DIRECT FIT APPLICATIONS. THESE ARE FOR GM ABODIES. THEY GOT LARGE THREE INCH HEAVY DUTY JOHNNY JOINTS, AND THEIR FORGED JOINTS AS WELL. THEY'RE ALSO ALL EASILY REBUILDABLE WITH THE AVAILABLE SPECIAL TOOL.

SO IF YOU'RE PUTTING TOGETHER A HIGH PERFORMANCE SUSPENSION, TAKE A LOOK AT THE DURABLE AND FUNCTIONAL PARTS AVAILABLE FROM CURRIE. GUYS THANKS FOR WATCHING TRUCK TECH, SEE YOU NEXT TIME.