Jeep Refresh

(ANNOUNCER)>> TODAY WE CONTINUE REFRESHING OUR '04 GRAND CHEROKEE. THIS JEEP WAS A GOOD DEAL BUT IT WAS A LITTLE ROUGH. SO WE'RE USING A FEW TRICKS AND A LOT OF ELBOW GREASE TO RAISE ITS VALUE. IT'S ALL TODAY HERE ON TRUCK TECH.

(RYAN)>> HEY GUYS, WELCOME TO TRUCK TECH. TODAY WE'RE BACK ON OUR '04 JEEP GRAND CHEROKEE LIMITED POWERED BY A FOUR POINT SEVEN LITER VEIGHT WITH AN ALL WHEEL DRIVE TRANSFER CASE. NOW WE PICKED THIS THING UP FOR CHEAP BECAUSE THE DEALERSHIP IT WAS GOING TO GET TRADED INTO WASN'T GONNA GIVE MUCH FOR IT BECAUSE IT WAS IN OVERALL KINDA POOR CONDITION.

SO WE FIGURED WE'D PUT A LITTLE BIT OF ELBOW GREASE INTO IT, MAYBE A FEW BUCKS, AND WE'D END UP WITH SOMETHING THAT'S NICER TO DRIVE OR SOMETHING THAT WE CAN SELL, FLIP, AND MAKE A FEW BUCKS ON.

(KEVIN)>> NOW PART OF THAT ELBOW GREASE WAS SHOWING YOU GUYS A PRETTY UNIVERSAL REPAIR, SOMETHING VERY COMMON IN LATE MODEL VEHICLES.

WE SHOWED YOU HOW TO FIX A SPLIT IN URETHANE BUMPER COVER, CHECK IT OUT.

NOW JUST LIKE WHEN YOU BODY WORK SHEET METAL, THE GOAL IS TO GET THE SUBSTRAIGHT, OR THE MATERIAL YOU'RE WORKING ON, STRAIGHT AND FLAT, OR AS FLAT AS POSSIBLE. IN THIS CASE WE'RE USING HEAT AND SOME AUTO BODY TOOLS TO GET THE SHAPE BACK TO WHERE IT WAS ONCE MOLDED.

THEN DRYING THE WATER OFF SETS IT UP FOR THE NEXT STAGE OF THE REPAIR, WHICH IS REALLY KIND OF COOL. WE'RE USING AN ATTACHMENT ON OUR STUD WELDING KIT THAT LITERALLY MOUNTS STAPLES INTO THE BACK SIDE OF THE REPAIR, HOLDING IT IN PLACE, AND DOING SO PERMANENTLY. A SIMPLE PREP ON THE BACK SIDE MAKES IT A LITTLE SAFER TO HANDLE, AND A LITTLE BIT OF INSURANCE IN THE FORM OF A TWO PART EPOXY ON THE FRONT LETS US APPLY FILLER IN A CONVENTIONAL AUTO BODY REPAIR FORMAT. TWO STAGES OF FILLER AND WE'RE READY FOR THE NEXT STEP, WHICH IS PRIMER.

(RYAN)>> NOW THE INTERIOR DEFINITELY NEEDED SOME ATTENTION AS WELL. AND WITH THE SEATS PULLED OUT WE WERE ABLE TO GET IN HERE WITH A VACUUM CLEANER. AND UNDERNEATH ALL THE DOG OR CAT HAIR AND TRASH THERE'S SOME CARPET THAT'S IN PRETTY GOOD CONDITION. JUST LIKE THE REST OF THE INTERIOR, IT JUST NEEDS TO

BE CLEANED AND WIPED DOWN.

WE SHOULD BE OKAY. LOOKS LIKE THE ONLY THING WE'RE GONNA HAVE TO SPEND MONEY ON IS A SHIFT INDICATOR OR TRIM PIECE. IT'S KINDA TRASHED. SO IT'LL GIVE US AN OPPORTUNITY TO PULL THE CONSOLE, CLEAN UP ALL THIS NASTY, AND WE

SHOULD BE IN GOOD SHAPE. THE SEATS, THAT'S KEVIN'S JOB.

(KEVIN)>> THESE SEATS, LIKE THE REST OF THE VEHICLE,

WELL THEY'RE NOT DESTROYED. THEY'RE JUST IN REALLY BAD CONDITION DUE TO NEGLECT. AND THERE'S NO OBVIOUS TEARS OR SPLITS IN THE SEAMS. THERE'S JUST WEAR MARKS HERE IN THE SEAT BUTTS. THE PASSENGER SIDE SEAT, WELL IT'S NOT ANY DIFFERENT. THERE'S JUST OBVIOUS WEAR HERE AND THERE, WHICH IS GOOD NEWS FOR US BECAUSE WE DON'T HAVE TO SPRING FOR NEW LEATHER SEAT COVERS. EVEN THOUGH THERE ARE COMPANIES LIKE KATSKIN THAT WILL RESKIN THIS ENTIRE SEAT FOR YOU AND IT WILL FIT AND LOOK GREAT, WE JUST DON'T WANT TO SPEND THE MONEY BECAUSE WE WANT TO MAKE MONEY ON THE VEHICLE. SO THANKS TO DUPLICOLOR WE'VE GOT OPTIONS. NOW THEY'VE GOT SEVERAL DIFFERENT COLORS OF THIS VINYL AND FABRIC DYE, WE'RE OBVIOUSLY GONNA USE BLACK. NOW THE SEATS AREN'T A REALLY REALLY DARK BLACK, THEY'RE MORE OF A DARK GRAY, BUT THAT'S OKAY BECAUSE IF WE DO ALL FOUR OF THEM, WELL WE'LL HAVE THE SAME EFFECT. AND WE CAN MAKE THESE THINGS LOOK ALMOST BRAND NEW.

BUT BEFORE WE DO ANY KIND OF A REFINISH JOB, JUST LIKE EVERYTHING ELSE, THERE'S SOME PREP AND SOME CLEANING.

WE'RE GONNA DO SEVERAL STAGES OF CLEANING, INCLUDING A SOLVENT BASED CLEANER AND A WATER BASED CLEANER TO MAKE SURE EVERYTHING GETS OUT OF THE GRAIN OF THAT LEATHER AND VINYL. BUT THE FIRST THING, JUST LIKE THE '80'S ROCK BAND, WE'RE GONNA GET THE FUNK OUT CAUSE WE DON'T KNOW WHO'S BEEN SITTING IN THOSE SEATS AND IF THEY HAD PANTS ON. OKAY, OUR SOLVENT CLEANER SERVES TWO PURPOSES, WE TEST

FOR COLOR FASTNESS TO SEE IF IT'S GONNA PULL THE COLOR

OUT OF THE LEATHER, AND IT SERVES AS A VERY AGGRESSIVE CLEANER. ACETONE IS REALLY GOOD FOR THIS PURPOSE. SO GIVE IT A LITTLE SHOT, COLOR STAYS THERE, WE'RE GETTING A LITTLE BIT MORE FUNK OUT.

SO KEEP ON CLEANING.

SEE HOW QUICKLY IT EVAPORATES, THAT'S WHY IT'S GOOD FOR THIS PURPOSE. LOOK AT THAT, BOY THOSE WERE DIRTY. WHEN YOU'RE SURE THE SURFACE IS CLEAN THERE'S ONE MORE STEP IN THE PROCESS, WHICH IS PROFILING OR SCUFFING UP THE TOP SURFACE OF THE SEAT. THE GRAY SCUFFING PAD ROUGHS IT UP JUST ENOUGH TO GIVE THE VINYL DYE A LITTLE BIT BETTER CHANCE OF STICKING. ALONG WITH OUR FABRIC DYE WE PICKED UP SOME PREP WIPES FROM DUPLICOLOR. THESE COME IN A SEALED PACKAGE AND REALLY CONVENIENT SINCE YOU DON'T HAVE TO BUY A GALLON OF

CLEANING SOLVENT. USE AS MANY AS YOU NEED TO AND WIPE THE TOP SURFACE ONE MORE TIME FOR A GOOD THOROUGH CLEANING. KEEP IN MIND THAT THIS STUFF STICKS AROUND A WHILE, AND IF YOU START TO PAINT RIGHT AWAY YOU MIGHT TRAP SOME OF THAT SOLVENT IN THE CRACKS AND CREVICES OF THE SEAT. SO GIVE IT A GOOD CHANCE TO DRY FIRST. THE FIRST COAT IS OBVIOUSLY A LIGHT COAT. YOU WANT TO MAKE SURE THAT YOU'RE SETTING UP THE SURFACE TO TAKE ON THE SUBSEQUENT OR FOLLOWING COATS OF THE VINYL AND LEATHER DYE.

NOW YOU'RE USING SMOOTH AND EVEN COATS WITH AN EVEN OVERLAP. AND BY THE WAY, GET READY FOR YOUR FORE ARM AND YOUR FINGER TO GET SORE. SUCK IT UP, LIFE'S HARD.

YOU WANT TO LEAVE IT ABOUT 50 MINUTES IN BETWEEN COATS, AND WE ARE APPLYING THREE COATS TO THE SEATS.

BECAUSE THE COLOR IS BLACK AND BECAUSE IT SPRAYS ON PRETTY THICK, YOU COULD COVER IT ALL IN ONE COAT, BUT YOU COULD SET YOURSELF UP FOR FAILURE THAT WAY AND CREATE A CONDITION KNOWN AS BRIDGING. BRIDGING IS WHEN THE PAINT STICKS TO THE PAINT BUT IT'S NOT REALLY STUCK TO WHAT YOU'RE PAINTING. IF THAT DOESN'T MAKE ANY SENSE, BASICALLY YOU'RE PUTTING A BLANKET ON TOP OF THE SURFACE THAT COULD BE YANKED OFF AND COME OFF ON YOUR CLOTHES OR JUST FLAKE OFF AND LOOK BAD. SO THREE LIGHT COATS, MAKING SURE YOU'VE GOT COMPLETE COVERAGE, IS THE CORRECT WAY TO DO THIS AND MAKE IT A PERMANENT AND REALLY NICE LOOKING REPAIR. WITH THIS PARTICULAR PRODUCT YOU'VE GOT THE OPTION OF EITHER A HIGH GLOSS OR A FLAT FINISH. WE'RE USING THE FLAT FINISH SINCE LEATHER REALLY DOESN'T HAVE A HIGH GLOSS EVER. IN CASE YOU'RE WONDERING WHY WE'RE USING A VINYL AND FABRIC DYE ON LEATHER, WELL HERE'S A MISNOMER. LEATHER IS TYPICALLY JUST ON THE TOP SURFACE. THE SIDES OF THE LEATHER SEAT ARE MOST OF THE TIMES VINYL. WELL IT IS AS EASY AS THAT.

AND AS YOU CAN SEE, THEY LOOK REALLY GOOD. IT'S NOT A SUBSTITUTE FOR RECOVERING THE SEATS, BUT IT MAKES THEM LOOK REALLY GOOD AND IT'S NOT GONNA COME OFF ON YOUR CLOTHING. KEEP IN MIND, WE BURNED UP A WHOLE CAN JUST DOING THE TWO SEATS. SO IF YOU'RE GONNA DO THE REST OF THE INTERIOR OR THE BACK SEAT AND MAYBE A CENTER CONSOLE, FACTOR THAT IN TO HOW MANY CANS OF THIS VINYL DYE THAT YOU PURCHASE, NOT BAD!

(RYAN)>> HEY GUYS, WELCOME BACK TO THE SHOP AND THE FRESHENING UP OF OUR '04 JEEP GRAND CHEROKEE. NOW THIS WJ COMES WITH NICE 17 INCH ALUMINUM WHEELS, AND THE OTHER THREE ARE IN PRETTY GOOD SHAPE. THIS ONE'S NOT BAD, BUT IT'S GOT A LITTLE BIT OF A GOUGE HERE ON THE WHEEL LIP. IT DOESN'T EFFECT THE WHEEL STRUCTURALLY, IT JUST DOESN'T LOOK THAT GOOD. SO WE'RE GONNA SE WHAT WE CAN DO ABOUT FIXING THIS LITTLE BLEMISH. ALRIGHT, NOW WITH THE TIRE REMOVED FROM THE WHEEL, WE CAN DO A LITTLE BIT OF TIG WELDING AND MAKE THIS COSMETIC REPAIR.

THE FIRST THING WE'VE GOT TO DO IS CLEAN UP THE DAMAGED AREA AND GET RIDE OF THIS CHUNK OF BROKEN ALUMINUM. NEXT WE'RE GONNA GRIND THE AREA WHERE WE'RE GONNA BE MAKING THE REPAIR. NOW WE'VE GOT TO GET ALL THAT DIRT AND GRIME OUT OF THE TEXTURE OF THE DAMAGE AREA. IF WE LEFT IT IN THERE, WE'D BE FIGHTING FEROCITY AND CONTAMINATION OF THE WELDS. PROBABLY HAVE TO GRIND IT DOWN AND REDO IT. I'M ALSO GRINDING OFF A LITTLE BIT OF THE SURROUNDING CLEAR COAT FOR THE SAME REASON. ONCE THAT'S DONE WE FIRED UP OUR MILLER DIVERSION 165 TIG WELDER AND GOT TO WORK ON LAYING DOWN SOME FILLER ALUMINUM. NOW NORMALLY SHOWING THE DETAIL OF ANY TYPE OF ARC WELDING CAN BE CHALLENGING, BUT OUR CAMERA GUY ROB HE'S GOT A TECHNIQUE DOWN THAT ALLOWS YOU TO SEE THE PROCESS AND NOT JUST THE FINISHED RESULT. IT'S PRETTY NEAT TO SEE THE INDIVIDUAL BEADS FORM ON THE WELD. BASICALLY I'M BUILDING UP THIS WALL HERE. A LITTLE BIT OF ALUMINUM AND I'M GONNA RETIG LATER. NOW WHAT I'M TRYING TO DO IS BASICALLY STACK WELD BEADS ON TOP OF EACH OTHER UNTIL THERE'S ENOUGH MATERIAL OR ALUMINUM THERE TO BE RESHAPED WITH A GRINDER. NOW ON A SMALL COSMETIC REPAIR LIKE THIS THAT'S SOMETHING YOU MIGHT WANT TO TRY AT HOME. BUT IF THE WHEEL IS BADLY DAMAGED OR CRACKED, YOU MIGHT NEED TO JUST REPLACE THE WHEEL ALL TOGETHER, OR AT THE LEAST TAKE IT TO A PROFESSIONAL SHOP AND HAVE IT REPAIRED. AND WITH THE WELDING DONE, WE SWAP THE WELDING HELMET FOR SOME SAFETY GLASSES AND GOT TO WORK RESHAPING ALL THE ALUMINUM. STARTED OUT WITH A CUTOFF WHEEL JUST TO GET THE ROUGH

SHAPE, AND THEN MOVED ON TO SOMETHING A LITTLE LESS AGGRESSIVE, LIKE THIS DIE GRINDER WITH A MEDIUM GRIT SANDING DISC ON IT.

WE JUST GENERALLY BROUGHT THE WHEEL BACK TO ITS SHAPE. NOW THIS ISN'T AN EXACT SCIENCE. WE'RE BASICALLY JUST EYE BALLING IT, AND IT'S NOT GOING TO BE ABSOLUTELY PERFECT. RIGHT THERE, IT'S MORE OF A LIP. BUT AFTER SOME CAREFUL GRINDING, AND FILING, AND RESURFACING, YOU CAN GET PRETTY DARN CLOSE. NOW THE SANDING DISC LEFT SOME SCRATCHES IN THE ALUMINUM. SO TO GET RID OF THOSE AND LEVEL THINGS OUT I'M USING A

DIE GRINDER AND A COARSE RESURFACING DISC TO FINISH THINGS UP. ALRIGHT, WELL IT'S NOT A PERFECT REPAIR BUT IT'S A LOT BETTER THAN WHAT IT WAS.

UNLESS YOU WERE LOOKING FOR IT, YOU'D PROBABLY NEVER SEE IT. NOW IF THIS WAS A FULLY POLISHED ALUMINUM WHEEL YOU COULD SPEND A LITTLE BIT MORE TIME MAKING IT NEARLY PERFECT AND IT'D BE A NEARLY UNDETECTABLE REPAIR. BUT THIS IS A MACHINE FINISH WHEEL WITH A CLEAR COAT.

I GUESS WE COULD STRIP ALL THE CLEAR COAT OFF, RECLEAR THE ENTIRE THING, AND YOU'D PROBABLY NEVER SEE IT. BUT WE'RE GONNA COVER IT UP AND CHANGE THE LOOK OF THE VEHICLE WITH A LITTLE BIT OF WHEEL PAINT.

(KEVIN)>> HEY WELCOME BACK.

WELL A WHILE AGO YOU SAW ME FIX THIS PLASTIC BUMPER COVER, AND NOW IT'S IN FINISHING PUTTY READY FOR PRIMER/SURFACER. I'VE ALSO FIXED SOME OF THE GOUGES AND WHISKEY KNICKS IN THE SIDE CLADDING AND SOME OF THE OTHER PARTS OF THIS VEHICLE, INCLUDING THE FRONT BUMPER, AND KNOCKED OUT SOME OF THE DENTS IN THE SHEET METAL BECAUSE WE'RE TRYING TO FLIP THIS RIG.

AND LETS FACE IT, WE CAN MAKE A LOT MORE MONEY IF THE BODY WORK'S IN GOOD SHAPE AND IS NICE AND SHINY. BUT WE DIDN'T FIX EVERYTHING, WE SAVED A GOOD ONE FOR YOU GUYS. NOW THIS IS NOT NECESSARILY WORST HIT, BUT IT'S THE MOST INTERESTING BECAUSE THERE'S A BUNCH OF DIFFERENT STUFF IN PLAY, AND IT'S A LITTLE BIT OF A CHALLENGE. NOW YOU CAN SEE THE SCRATCHES HERE AND YOU MIGHT BE ABLE TO SEE SOME OF THE METAL DISTORTION, BUT NOW I BET YOU REALLY CAN. I'VE GOT SOMETHING TO REFLECT AGAINST THE BLACK SHEET METAL, AND IT'S PRETTY EVIDENT IT'S BEEN PUSHED IN. IT'S BEEN PUSHED IN AT A WEIRD ANGLE FROM THE SIDE. NOW YOUR NEW JERK IS TO GET IN BEHIND IT AND POP IT OUT FROM THE BACK LIKE A BED SIDE ON A PICK UP TRICK, BUT NOT SO FAST BECAUSE BACK HERE YOU CAN SEE THAT WE DON'T HAVE ACCESS TO ANY OF THIS. IT'S A DOUBLE WALL PANEL AND IT'S PROTECTING THE FUEL FILLER NECK. SO WE'VE GOT TO THINK OF SOMETHING ELSE. NOW NORMALLY WHAT I DO IS GRIND THIS DOWN TO METAL, USE MY STUD WELDER, AND JUST PULL IT OUT FROM THE FRONT. BUT GUESS WHAT THIS IS, THIS IS OUR FUEL NECK. THAT'S THE FUEL SOURCE.

THERE MIGHT BE VAPORS COMING OUT OF THERE. SO I WANT TO AVOID SPARKS AT ALL COSTS. SO WE'RE GONNA HAVE TO GET CREATIVE AND FIND A WAY TO MAYBE PRY IT OUT FROM THE INSIDE, AND NOT BLOW OURSELVES UP. SO WE'RE GONNA PULL THIS TAIL LIGHT OUT.

WHAT WE HAVE HERE IS A VENT THAT GIVES ME ACCESS TO THIS, SCORE.

(RYAN)>> THIS IS A PAINTLESS DENT REPAIR KIT FROM MATCO, AND IT INCLUDES EVERYTHING YOU NEED TO DO FOR PAINTLESS DENT REPAIR. THAT'S NOT WHAT KEVIN'S DOING TODAY.

WHAT WE'RE DOING IS BASICALLY USING ONE OF THE TOOLS AS AN ADJUSTABLE PRY BAR SO I CAN GET IN BEHIND THE DENT, APPLY A LITTLE PRESSURE TO THE BACK SIDE OF THE SHEET METAL.

(KEVIN)>> WITH THE PDR TOOLS SET AT THE APPROPRIATE ANGLE, NOW IT'S JUST A MATTER OF GETTING A FEEL FOR THE METAL AND POKING AND SEEING HOW IT RESPONDS. TYPICALLY YOU STAB FOR THE LOWEST POINT OF THE DENT FIRST, AND SOMETIMES THAT CARRIES THE REST OF THE DAMAGE BACK INTO THE CORRECT SHAPE. BUT IT IS A LOT OF TRIAL AND ERROR AND TAKES SOME FUSING AROUND. BUT THERE'S THE TIP I WANT TO PASS ON THAT I USE A LOT IN AUTO BODY WORK. USE THE REFLECTION ON YOUR SURFACE TO TELL YOU WHERE YOU ARE. THAT POPPING MEANS THERE'S STILL PRESSURE.

I'VE GOT TO FIGURE OUT WHERE THE PRESSURE IS. LOOK TO THE EDGES OF IT. THERE'S PRESSURE THERE, PRESSURE DOWN HERE. NOW YOU'VE PROBABLY NOTICED BY NOW JUST HOW FLIMSY THIS SHEET METAL IS. WELL THAT'S JUST STANDARD IN TODAY'S VEHICLES. THE SHEET METAL IS USED FOR AESTHETICS OR AERODYNAMICS, AND TYPICALLY HAS VERY LITTLE TO DO WITH THE

STRENGTH OR SAFETY OF THE VEHICLE. THAT'S ALL ENGINEERED INTO THE UNIBODY. SO BASICALLY WE'RE JUST MESSAGING THE SHAPE BACK IN FOR THE LOOKS OF IT.

YOU CAN SEE BY THE REFLECTION THAT MOST OF THE DENT HAS BEEN WORKED OUT AND WE'RE GETTING REALLY CLOSE TO OUR SHAPE. THE HAMMER COMES IN TO ADD A LITTLE BIT OF PRESSURE IN THE OPPOSITE DIRECTION AND BRING THE SHEET METAL BACK IN WHERE I'VE HYPER EXTENDED IT WITH THE PICK OF THE PDR TOOL. THIS BACK AND FORTH MOTION STRETCHES THE METAL TO WHERE IT MORE CLOSELY RESEMBLES THE SHAPE THAT IT HAD BEFORE IT WAS DAMAGED. A PEEK AT THE INSIDE REALLY GIVES YOU SOME PERSPECTIVE ON WHAT'S INVOLVED IN A UNIBODY CONSTRUCTION. YOU CAN CLEARLY SEE THE SEPARATION BETWEEN THE INNER AND OUTER SHEET METAL. AND OF COURSE THE CORROSION PROTECTION, WHICH IS WHY SOME OF THESE VEHICLES LAST SO MUCH LONGER. EVERYTHING IS BATHED IN AN EPOXY PRIMER. IT ALSO SHOWS YOU THAT WITH A SEVERE COLLISION THE DAMAGE CAN TRANSFER FROM THE OUTER TO THE INNER LAYER AND CAUSE MISALIGNMENT ISSUES THAT TAKE EITHER A LOT MORE MONEY TO REPAIR OR A LOT MORE TIME TO WORK OUT. NOW I'M GONNA USE A HEEL DOLLY FROM MATCO TO REACH INSIDE THE QUARTER PANEL AND BRACE THE METAL SO I CAN PEEN SOME OF THE HIGH SPOTS BACK INTO SHAPE. WHEN YOU'RE DOING A REPAIR LIKE THIS, JUST KEEP IN MIND THAT EVERY ACTION FROM THE HAMMER CREATES REACTION IN THE METAL AND YOU JUST HAVE TO MONITOR YOUR PROGRESS. YOU CAN TELL BY THE LIGHT IN THE REFLECTION THAT OUR SHAPE IS BACK WHERE WE WANT. SO NOW JUST A SKIM COAT OF FILLER AND WE'RE DONE.

(KEVIN)>> HEY WELCOME BACK. WELL SO FAR SO GOOD. WE MANAGED TO STRAIGHTEN THE METAL OUT ON THIS QUARTER

PANEL BY USING PRY BARS AND GETTING IN BEHIND THE DAMAGE AND MESSAGING IT OUT THAT WAY, RATHER THAN PULL IT OUT FROM THE FRONT USING A STUD WELDER. WE'RE WORKING RIGHT BESIDE THE FUEL FILLER AND WE DIDN'T WANT TO CREATE SPARKS IF WE DIDN'T HAVE TOO WELL WE'RE NO LONGER AT THAT STAGE. I'VE GOT TO GRIND THE PAINT OFF AND GET DOWN TO THE BARE METAL TO APPLY THE FILLER. SO NOW WE'RE GONNA USE A LITTLE COMMON SENSE. THIS IS SIMPLY A DAMP PAPER TOWEL AND I'M GONNA FOLLOW IT WITH SOME MASKING TAPE TO GIVE MYSELF A BIT OF A VAPOR BARRIER. I HAVEN'T BLOWN MYSELF UP DOING BODY WORK YET, AND I DON'T PLAN ON DOING IT IN FRONT OF YOU GUYS. IT MIGHT SEEM LIKE OVERKILL BUT IT'S GOING TO ELIMINATE THE POSSIBILITY OF IGNITING FUEL VAPOR EITHER WITH SPARKS OR STATIC ELECTRICITY.

THE MAKER JUST SERVES AS A GUIDELINE TO LET ME KNOW IF EVERYTHING ELSE IS COVERED UP WITH DUST WHERE I WANT TO

GRIND, AND WHERE I WANT TO STOP MORE IMPORTANTLY. I'M USING A 24 GRIT DISC ON AN ANGLE GRINDER. THIS IS A VERY AGGRESSIVE SCRATCH PATTERN AND ELIMINATES ANY PAINT OR PRIMER AND ALLOWS ME TO GO RIGHT TO THE BARE METAL SUB STRAIGHT. NOW HERE'S A TRICK THAT JACKIE CARTER SHOWED

ME A LONG TIME AGO. TAKING 80 GRIT ON A DUAL ACTION SANDER, FEATHER OUT PASS WHERE YOU'RE GRINDING. THIS ALLOWS YOU TO TAPER YOUR FILLER APPLICATION SMOOTHLY INTO THE PAINT SO THERE'S TRANSITION AND NO BUMP THAT MATS THROUGH THE PAINT. TYPICAL POLYESTER FILLER, AKA BONDO IS APPLIED FIRST, FOLLOWED BY BLOCKING WITH 36 GRIT AND THEN SHAPING WITH 80 GRIT, WHICH SETS IT UP PERFECTLY FOR THE FINE TALC FINISHING PUTTY. WHICH FILLS IN PIN HOLES AND ANY ERRANT 36 GRIT SCRATCHES THAT YOU MAY HAVE MISSED. SO THIS DENT, LIKE THE REST OF DAMAGE ON THE VEHICLE, IS READY FOR A HIGH BUILD PRIMER/SURFACER, ONE MORE ROUND OF BLOCKING. AND THEN WE CAN SHOOT SOME COLOR ON IT. WE'RE GONNA PRIME IT ALL AT ONE TIME AND NEXT TIME YOU SEE THIS THING WE'LL SHOW YOU HOW TO SPOT

PAINT AND BLEND. THERE'S NOT MUCH THAT'S AS COOL LOOKING OR AS SAFE AND RELIABLE AS A PROPERLY INSTALLED AN FITTING ON A STAINLESS HOSE.

WELL YOU GUYS THAT HAVE DONE THESE HOSES, YOU KNOW THAT JUST DOING THEM BY HAND SOMETIMES IS QUESTIONABLE. WHETHER THEY'RE SEATED PROPERLY COULD LEAD TO FAILURE.

THERE'S WHERE COOL TOOLS COMES IN. COOL TOOL'S FIXTURES COME IN ALL THE POPULAR SIZES AND

BASICALLY MOUNT A BENCH VICE AND ALLOW YOU TO PUSH ON YOUR HOSES AND LINES QUICKLY AND EASILY. AND IF YOU'RE WORKING WITH PUSH STYLE FITTINGS, WELL COOL TOOLS HAS JUST COME OUT WITH THEIR NEW HOSE PRESS, MAKING IT EVEN EASIER BYPASSING THE BENCH VICE. COOL TOOLS IS SOLD WHEREVER FIND TOOLS AND EQUIPMENT ARE AVAILABLE.

(RYAN)>> NOW WE'VE ALL BEEN IN A SITUATION WHERE INSTALLING A STEREO, OR AN AIR TANK, OR MAYBE SOME FOG LIGHTS AND SOME OF THE COMPONENTS GO INSIDE THE VEHICLE AND SOME OF THEM GO OUT. YOU'VE GOT TO RUN THOSE AIR LINES OR WIRES THROUGH THE FIREWALL AND SEAL THEM FROM THE ELEMENTS. WELL THIS DAYSTAR FIREWALL BOOT MAY SOLVE A PROBLEM FOR YOU. ALL YOU NEED TO DO IS DRILL A INCH AND A HALF HOLE IN THE FIREWALL, THE BOOT WILL SEAL TO IT, AND THEN YOU'RE LEFT WITH THREE DIFFERENT OPTIONS AS FAR AS WIRE BUNDLE, AIR LINE BUNDLE SIZES FROM THREEEIGHTHS ALL THE WAY UP TO AN INCH. ONCE YOUR DONE SIMPLY SECURE IT WITH A ZIP TIE AND YOU'RE IN GOOD SHAPE. AND SOMETIMES IT'S JUST THE LITTLE THINGS THAT PUT THE FINISHING TOUCH ON THE PROJECT YOU'RE WORKING ON AND MAKE EVERYTHING COMPLETE.

(KEVIN)>> IF YOU'RE LOOKING AS A VEHICLE MOUNTED WINCH THAT DOUBLES AS A WORK STATION, LOOK NO FURTHER AS THE WARN POWER PLANT DUAL FORCE HD WITH A 12,000 POUND PULLING CAPABILITY. THE WINCH ITSELF FEATURES 80 FEET OF STEEL ROPE AND ACCESSORIES LIKE A HOOK, A FAIRLEAD, AND THE NEW NEXT GENERATION CONTROLLER. BUT THAT'S WHEN THE WINCH STOPS AND THE WORK STATION KICKS IN WITH AN ONBOARD AIR COMPRESSOR THAT INCLUDES AN ACCESSORY BAG THAT HOLDS A GAUGE, A TIRE CHUCK, 12 FEET OF AIR HOSE, VARIOUS FITTINGS AS WELL AS MOUNTING HARD WARE AND SOME OTHER AIR COMPRESSOR ACCESSORIES. THE COMPRESSOR ITSELF IS CAPABLE OF FIVE CFM AT 90 PSI, MAKING IT VERSATILE ENOUGH FOR A VARIETY OF DIFFERENT AIR TOOLS, MAKING THE POWERSTATION HD GREAT FOR OFF ROAD OR ON THE JOB. THANKS FOR WATCHING TRUCK TECH, SEE YOU GUYS SOON.