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Yeah, that thing sounds nice. Oh, it's sweet, isn't it? Yeah,
hi. Welcome to the shop and a whole new season of horsepower TV. Yeah, it's hard to believe that.
Hey, we're already getting started on our fifth season of high performance. How Tos shiny sheet metal and that lead foot lifestyle. We're gonna get things going today with a pair of ponies that represent 35 years of Mustang muscle. And the latest is this Cobra R model built by the special vehicles team in very limited numbers 300 to be exact and just like all the previous R models. Well, this one's race ready right off the assembly line
to get it around the track. The R model uses a special 32 valve, dual overhead cam 5.4 L modular V8 that cranks out 385 horsepower and matches it with 385 ft pounds of torque. Now because of this massive intake, the SV team had to come up with a unique hood to hide it all.
Well, my 65 fast back here isn't a horse of a different color. Exactly, but it does have a different attitude.
We're building it up as a pro touring pony. And so far we've installed a total control rack and pinion steering.
This breaks,
call over front suspension before adding these five po calibri mounted on BFG rubber.
Oh, and don't forget that, be cool, radiator electric fans and the her shifter. Now, today, we're gonna keep the project going by bolting in a complete DTs nine inch rear end and soon you'll see why. But the first step is to set up our center section.
Now let me show you why the old one has to go.
This housing here apparently came out of a full size Ford. In fact, you can check out here where somebody cut off the brackets,
then someone added axle tubes from a mustang to make it work with the original springs. Now, the problem with this whole setup is you can never trust the integrity, specially with these but wells and who knows what's inside of it. Now, after we get rid of this drive shaft, we get the car up on jack stands and remove the U boats and the shocks.
Here's everything that we need to set up that center section. Now, we're gonna start with a strange nodular carrier and one of their billet yokes done for strength purposes. And that's because the stock Ford piece will only handle about 500 horsepower and we'll probably see every bit of that
with the engine swap that we got planned for later on. Now we're gonna finish filling that center section with a set of 350 gears and an A RB air locker differential. Now, check this out,
it gets its air from this compressor to lock up that differential. Every time we need maximum traction,
it's connected through the differential housing with this hose and it connects right here and the whole deal is controlled with a couple of rocker switches that will mount inside the car later on.
Hm.
Hey, what are you gonna do this thing? I don't know.
You think there's anything inside we can salvage. Let's set it down over here and get to that later. All right.
Well, I've already pressed the carrier brains onto the differential and torque. The ring gear bolts down to 75 ft pounds. Now make sure that you use these allen head bolts that come with the locker since there isn't room here for a hex head bolt. Oh, and while I was at it, I also pressed the pinion bearing onto the pinion shaft.
Well, now we can set up the P
support by first dropping in the head bearing
and driving in the pinion seal.
We're using the spacer and shims rather than the crush sleeve. Now you adjust the pinion preload by adding or subtracting shims.
So you get about 20 inch pounds of rotational drag once this pinion nut is tight, now it may take several attempts to get it right
to check out rotational drag. We use this inch pound torque wrench.
Those old springs are really sagging after 36 years. So, while Chuck adjust that pinion drag over there, I'm gonna swap them out for these new springs we got from Eaton,
they'll give us a 1.5 inch drop in the rear to match that lowered front end.
And we also got the installation kit which includes urethane spring pads, shackles and bushings, plus through boats and U boats. Now.
Well, I'll get this Mustang ready for that new rear end.
Why don't you keep yours right where it is? Because we'll be back to finish up this project
right after this.
Hey, welcome back to the shop and our rear end swap into Joe's 65 Mustang. Now, while you were gone, I went ahead and finishing the preload on our pin. So now we're ready for our third pin bearing
and the retainer.
Once that's done,
the pin and support assembly are ready to be bolted to the carrier. Now, Ford uses shims like these to adjust the pin depth. And experience tells us that a 10,000 shim is a good starting point. Of course, the final shim thickness will be determined once we run our test pattern
that was
after removing the carrier cap
and the spanner nut we're ready to drop in our differential.
There we go.
Now, if you're using new bearings like we are, here's a trick way to take care of both your backlash and your preload at the same time,
reinstall the spanner nut and the carrier cap plus the retainer bracket for the lockers, air fitting,
zero out your backlash by adjusting both spanner nuts
until you have zero clearance at the pinion and the ring gear still spins freely. Now, we've gone ahead and mounted on this engine stand
to give us improved access and better stability.
After mounting your dial indicator, tighten the spanner nut furthest away from the ring gear
to get 6 to 8 thousand's backlash,
uh right on the money. Now, that'll also bring your preload into spec
running a test pattern will tell us if our opinion in depth is correct.
Now, a cigar shaped pattern like this one tells us we're right on the money.
The final step is to thread lock the cap bolt
and torque them to 85 ft pounds.
Then we can install the spanner lock.
We'll install our new housing empty mostly to save our backs. By the way, we're using DTSS fabricated housing with a design that extends outward to the axle tubes for additional strength.
Now, it's further reinforced with these internal bulkheads. By the way, the backside is round for a nice appearance. We got ours with an optional filler
and dre.
The final step in this setup was plumbing, the airline for the locker and I thought you guys might want to look at how it comes through the housing
and connects to the differential.
Hey, man, it looks like you've been busy over here. At least one of us has been working his rear end off, literally. Well, I haven't been exactly sitting on mine either. This thing's ready to go in. Let's get that pig bolted up here.
You know, the thing I like about a pro touring car is it, does everything
accelerates, handles and decelerates equally. Well. So with that in mind, we had DTs send us this Ford Motor sports rear disc kit includes everything from 11 inch rotors to a built in parking brake. Now, because of the caliber small diameter piston, it'll work with most stock master cylinders. Oh, and this low car cable kit here will keep our parking brake working
first position, the disc brake backing plate,
then slide the axles into place,
sent you down the retaining bolts,
then install the rotor
and the calipers.
Well, now we have to replumb the brakes and bleed them once we're finished,
hey, with that rear end mounted, we're ready for some shocks. Now, this pro touring pony is gonna see a lot of different driving conditions. So we're gonna use Edelbrock is shocks with internal valving that adjust instantly to those changes,
how to do it.
Hey, not so fast. We still got to slam in this new drive shaft. Now, this one's a full three inch diameter steel piece with larger U joints to match the oak on our rear end
with the Mustang back on the ground. We can go ahead and mount the compressor for that locker.
Now, we're gonna put it right here in the trunk so it'll stay dry
and away from the heat. All right. Well, that does it for our rear end swap. By the way, everything we used on this project will cost you about 3800 bucks plan to spend the whole weekend on it though. And, uh, that includes time to run down parts.
You know what? We could have saved ourselves some time if we'd had DTs preassembled everything for us. Now, what do you say? We finish installing this compressor so we can get our rears in gear and take this thing for a drive
after that, we'll be back after a short break and a short drive. Hey, move it back a little bit.
Hey, like you're racing heads up. Hey, who does it get ready for another? NSE A shoot out here in the heart of mid America. And we're about to answer the question. What's so super about? Super Street
nestled in the cornfields of Cordova Illinois is an unsuspecting little stretch of road just over a quarter mile long.
It's Cordova Raceway Park
and the track heats up with boiling rubber from the fastest street cars in the world.
From the ultra modified Pro class to the blast from the past of nostalgia cars.
The top street machines come together to fight it out for the championships
and in no other class is the competition as hot as in Super Street.
This class combines a stock look with the performance for speed.
It's very competitive.
You pretty much have to run a 20 or better to, to win anything.
The 20 means an 820 et,
and that means 100 and 70 miles an hour in the quarter.
That's fast but not fast enough for Jim Huber and his s 10 extreme running just over seven seconds at 177 miles an hour.
Jim knows a little about speed taking last year's Super Street championship title,
but winning isn't the only reason he races in this class.
I think the biggest aspect of it is more of a street car look,
you know, like, say this truck here, it looks like a extreme truck except for the hood and the wing,
like everybody's
cars, they all look like street cars. Super Street is the more down to earth class
down to earth until you catch 3 ft of air under front wheels like Rick Rossotti and his super street Camaro
Rick's had this car since he was 16.
It's not quite stock anymore, but even with all the modifications, it is street legal. Basically this, I could drive this car on the street. I mean, it's a little radical, you know, but it's got functioning headlights,
you know, turn signals, all, all the things you would have to have on a street car. Yes. These cars can be driven on the street
but who wants to take them to the grocery store when you can burn rubber.
Basically a 10 inch tire class.
3000 pounds, minimum weight mufflers, headlights the whole nine yards on the street. Legal equipment.
Jimmy's been doing well this year and with a strong finish in this race, he'll take points leader.
He's got the set up to do it with a 406 Chevy small block and a ni
in the back.
Most racers are using
Diers to get extra horses but in almost every class, they have the option to use a turbo or a blower.
And if you want to see the biggest baddest turbo at Cordova, then go no further than this tweaked. Camaro.
Kindly tweak his motor with a precision turbo that puts out 21 pounds of boost, making an incredible 2100 horsepower
need
proof. Well, Lawrence took number one qualifier in
street with a run just under seven seconds at 207 miles an hour. Turbo charging really makes nice power.
It's the only motor we have. So we need to have a package that last us a whole year
and it's proved to be reliable. All those horses will wreck the competition but that power comes with a price one that puts a dent in your pocketbook. The negative thing about going turbo charge is the additional cost,
the power plant and all the peripherals cost about a third more
and a Nitrous motor,
the Turbos are about to prove their worth in the finals going up against the king of Nitrous Pat Muy
who is pretty relaxed before the challenge.
We're just gonna go up and run our race, you know. Uh, uh, if we run good, we're hard to beat, you know. But, uh,
anything can happen. I don't think anybody for granted, we're gonna throw it at it and see what happens.
Lawrence had no worries about the Turbos doing their job. But in the semi final round, the clutch problem appeared that just had to be fixed. We weren't getting the tires to stick so
we soften the clutch a little bit in an effort to get the car out. And as it turned out, we softened it too much
as Lawrence and his crew worked on the clutch. The finals for Super Street were taking place.
It would be the former champion Jim Huber going up again.
The current points leader Jimmy Black,
the race started off with a 60 ft wheel stand from the extreme S 10. And in the end, Jim took the win.
The finals were close to an end as Patsey
and Lawrence Conley came to the line
in
versus Turbo shootout.
But unfortunately, the race was over before it began,
that loose clutch caused a red light for Lawrence and his sweet Turbos
close, but no cigar,
as I mentioned earlier, you know, Pat had a lot left. We did as well.
Uh Our clutch chain didn't do what we wanted.
Uh
We'll get him next time.
Horsepower T V's Quick Tech is brought to you by Wyotech.
Welcome back to Horsepower TV.
You know, true. High performance isn't just about going fast anymore.
A well built street machine is one that starts steers and stops equally. Well, you know, I'm always amazed at how many of you guys will come up to me and tell me how much horsepower you have. But hey, nobody ever gives me their 60 to 0 times. So let's talk about brakes today. Now, a modern disc brake system consists of a rotor
and a caliper that work together to turn forward motion
or kinetic energy into heat. Now, the rotor is the device that stores that heat until it can be dispelled into the atmosphere.
So it's important that you match the rotor size
to the type of work it's gonna be doing
speed, vehicle, weight and driving conditions, all determine your rotor needs.
Hey, I don't care what they say size does matter, especially when it comes to rotors. But equally important is the rotor design and how it's attached to the hub. Now, our friends at bear sent us this assortment of rotors so we can show you the differences first up
a cast iron 12 inch rotor with an integral hub. Now, this is a nice upgrade for most street applications, but it's less than an inch thick and it has straight veins for cooling. Now, both those things affect its ability to store and dissipate heat.
This next one on the other hand is over an inch thick so it can store more heat and it has curved veins for improved heat dissipation. Now, if you like straightening out a twisty road, well, this one will give you improved fade resistance.
Next is a 13 inch rotor
with an aluminum hub. it's lighter and the increased diameter improve your leverage for more efficient braking. Now, during the braking process, a gas is created by the pad material rubbing against the rotor. And this one's been drilled to allow those gasses to escape and keep the pad in full contact
if you've got an aggressive driving style and occasionally make a trip to the road course. Hey, this is the rotor for you.
Finally a rotor for an all out race car. Now, this 15 inch monster employs all the latest tricks and is capable of repeated, accurate high speed stops. Hey, hey, I hate to break in but you forgot to mention that high performance brakes also need a high temp bearing grease or like this grease here that red line makes. And what about calipers and pads? Well, that's a whole another subject one that we'll talk about next week
if you're taking your small block forward to the limit. Well, now you can bolster its bottom end with this main cap girdle from trick flow.
It connects all the main caps to minimize deflection and accommodate strokes up to 3.5 inches. A RP fasteners are part of the package in this set up. That'll set you back about 200 bucks.
My partner tells me I've got a big mouth but hey, I think this one
has me beat
Holly's Avenger Throttle body is available in sizes up to this monstrous 95 millimeter
that flows 1000 CFM and fits most 86 to 93 5 L Fords with either stock or aftermarket intakes. Now, there's a little bit of outlay about $300
where there's heat, there's wire in your engine compartment. That is. But these high temperature sleeves from moroso can protect your plug wires from extreme header heat made up next to, they just slide over your boots like this for protection up to 2300 degrees. Of course, you'll have to turn loose up some coal cash about 36 singles for a pair.
Show Full Transcript
hi. Welcome to the shop and a whole new season of horsepower TV. Yeah, it's hard to believe that.
Hey, we're already getting started on our fifth season of high performance. How Tos shiny sheet metal and that lead foot lifestyle. We're gonna get things going today with a pair of ponies that represent 35 years of Mustang muscle. And the latest is this Cobra R model built by the special vehicles team in very limited numbers 300 to be exact and just like all the previous R models. Well, this one's race ready right off the assembly line
to get it around the track. The R model uses a special 32 valve, dual overhead cam 5.4 L modular V8 that cranks out 385 horsepower and matches it with 385 ft pounds of torque. Now because of this massive intake, the SV team had to come up with a unique hood to hide it all.
Well, my 65 fast back here isn't a horse of a different color. Exactly, but it does have a different attitude.
We're building it up as a pro touring pony. And so far we've installed a total control rack and pinion steering.
This breaks,
call over front suspension before adding these five po calibri mounted on BFG rubber.
Oh, and don't forget that, be cool, radiator electric fans and the her shifter. Now, today, we're gonna keep the project going by bolting in a complete DTs nine inch rear end and soon you'll see why. But the first step is to set up our center section.
Now let me show you why the old one has to go.
This housing here apparently came out of a full size Ford. In fact, you can check out here where somebody cut off the brackets,
then someone added axle tubes from a mustang to make it work with the original springs. Now, the problem with this whole setup is you can never trust the integrity, specially with these but wells and who knows what's inside of it. Now, after we get rid of this drive shaft, we get the car up on jack stands and remove the U boats and the shocks.
Here's everything that we need to set up that center section. Now, we're gonna start with a strange nodular carrier and one of their billet yokes done for strength purposes. And that's because the stock Ford piece will only handle about 500 horsepower and we'll probably see every bit of that
with the engine swap that we got planned for later on. Now we're gonna finish filling that center section with a set of 350 gears and an A RB air locker differential. Now, check this out,
it gets its air from this compressor to lock up that differential. Every time we need maximum traction,
it's connected through the differential housing with this hose and it connects right here and the whole deal is controlled with a couple of rocker switches that will mount inside the car later on.
Hm.
Hey, what are you gonna do this thing? I don't know.
You think there's anything inside we can salvage. Let's set it down over here and get to that later. All right.
Well, I've already pressed the carrier brains onto the differential and torque. The ring gear bolts down to 75 ft pounds. Now make sure that you use these allen head bolts that come with the locker since there isn't room here for a hex head bolt. Oh, and while I was at it, I also pressed the pinion bearing onto the pinion shaft.
Well, now we can set up the P
support by first dropping in the head bearing
and driving in the pinion seal.
We're using the spacer and shims rather than the crush sleeve. Now you adjust the pinion preload by adding or subtracting shims.
So you get about 20 inch pounds of rotational drag once this pinion nut is tight, now it may take several attempts to get it right
to check out rotational drag. We use this inch pound torque wrench.
Those old springs are really sagging after 36 years. So, while Chuck adjust that pinion drag over there, I'm gonna swap them out for these new springs we got from Eaton,
they'll give us a 1.5 inch drop in the rear to match that lowered front end.
And we also got the installation kit which includes urethane spring pads, shackles and bushings, plus through boats and U boats. Now.
Well, I'll get this Mustang ready for that new rear end.
Why don't you keep yours right where it is? Because we'll be back to finish up this project
right after this.
Hey, welcome back to the shop and our rear end swap into Joe's 65 Mustang. Now, while you were gone, I went ahead and finishing the preload on our pin. So now we're ready for our third pin bearing
and the retainer.
Once that's done,
the pin and support assembly are ready to be bolted to the carrier. Now, Ford uses shims like these to adjust the pin depth. And experience tells us that a 10,000 shim is a good starting point. Of course, the final shim thickness will be determined once we run our test pattern
that was
after removing the carrier cap
and the spanner nut we're ready to drop in our differential.
There we go.
Now, if you're using new bearings like we are, here's a trick way to take care of both your backlash and your preload at the same time,
reinstall the spanner nut and the carrier cap plus the retainer bracket for the lockers, air fitting,
zero out your backlash by adjusting both spanner nuts
until you have zero clearance at the pinion and the ring gear still spins freely. Now, we've gone ahead and mounted on this engine stand
to give us improved access and better stability.
After mounting your dial indicator, tighten the spanner nut furthest away from the ring gear
to get 6 to 8 thousand's backlash,
uh right on the money. Now, that'll also bring your preload into spec
running a test pattern will tell us if our opinion in depth is correct.
Now, a cigar shaped pattern like this one tells us we're right on the money.
The final step is to thread lock the cap bolt
and torque them to 85 ft pounds.
Then we can install the spanner lock.
We'll install our new housing empty mostly to save our backs. By the way, we're using DTSS fabricated housing with a design that extends outward to the axle tubes for additional strength.
Now, it's further reinforced with these internal bulkheads. By the way, the backside is round for a nice appearance. We got ours with an optional filler
and dre.
The final step in this setup was plumbing, the airline for the locker and I thought you guys might want to look at how it comes through the housing
and connects to the differential.
Hey, man, it looks like you've been busy over here. At least one of us has been working his rear end off, literally. Well, I haven't been exactly sitting on mine either. This thing's ready to go in. Let's get that pig bolted up here.
You know, the thing I like about a pro touring car is it, does everything
accelerates, handles and decelerates equally. Well. So with that in mind, we had DTs send us this Ford Motor sports rear disc kit includes everything from 11 inch rotors to a built in parking brake. Now, because of the caliber small diameter piston, it'll work with most stock master cylinders. Oh, and this low car cable kit here will keep our parking brake working
first position, the disc brake backing plate,
then slide the axles into place,
sent you down the retaining bolts,
then install the rotor
and the calipers.
Well, now we have to replumb the brakes and bleed them once we're finished,
hey, with that rear end mounted, we're ready for some shocks. Now, this pro touring pony is gonna see a lot of different driving conditions. So we're gonna use Edelbrock is shocks with internal valving that adjust instantly to those changes,
how to do it.
Hey, not so fast. We still got to slam in this new drive shaft. Now, this one's a full three inch diameter steel piece with larger U joints to match the oak on our rear end
with the Mustang back on the ground. We can go ahead and mount the compressor for that locker.
Now, we're gonna put it right here in the trunk so it'll stay dry
and away from the heat. All right. Well, that does it for our rear end swap. By the way, everything we used on this project will cost you about 3800 bucks plan to spend the whole weekend on it though. And, uh, that includes time to run down parts.
You know what? We could have saved ourselves some time if we'd had DTs preassembled everything for us. Now, what do you say? We finish installing this compressor so we can get our rears in gear and take this thing for a drive
after that, we'll be back after a short break and a short drive. Hey, move it back a little bit.
Hey, like you're racing heads up. Hey, who does it get ready for another? NSE A shoot out here in the heart of mid America. And we're about to answer the question. What's so super about? Super Street
nestled in the cornfields of Cordova Illinois is an unsuspecting little stretch of road just over a quarter mile long.
It's Cordova Raceway Park
and the track heats up with boiling rubber from the fastest street cars in the world.
From the ultra modified Pro class to the blast from the past of nostalgia cars.
The top street machines come together to fight it out for the championships
and in no other class is the competition as hot as in Super Street.
This class combines a stock look with the performance for speed.
It's very competitive.
You pretty much have to run a 20 or better to, to win anything.
The 20 means an 820 et,
and that means 100 and 70 miles an hour in the quarter.
That's fast but not fast enough for Jim Huber and his s 10 extreme running just over seven seconds at 177 miles an hour.
Jim knows a little about speed taking last year's Super Street championship title,
but winning isn't the only reason he races in this class.
I think the biggest aspect of it is more of a street car look,
you know, like, say this truck here, it looks like a extreme truck except for the hood and the wing,
like everybody's
cars, they all look like street cars. Super Street is the more down to earth class
down to earth until you catch 3 ft of air under front wheels like Rick Rossotti and his super street Camaro
Rick's had this car since he was 16.
It's not quite stock anymore, but even with all the modifications, it is street legal. Basically this, I could drive this car on the street. I mean, it's a little radical, you know, but it's got functioning headlights,
you know, turn signals, all, all the things you would have to have on a street car. Yes. These cars can be driven on the street
but who wants to take them to the grocery store when you can burn rubber.
Basically a 10 inch tire class.
3000 pounds, minimum weight mufflers, headlights the whole nine yards on the street. Legal equipment.
Jimmy's been doing well this year and with a strong finish in this race, he'll take points leader.
He's got the set up to do it with a 406 Chevy small block and a ni
in the back.
Most racers are using
Diers to get extra horses but in almost every class, they have the option to use a turbo or a blower.
And if you want to see the biggest baddest turbo at Cordova, then go no further than this tweaked. Camaro.
Kindly tweak his motor with a precision turbo that puts out 21 pounds of boost, making an incredible 2100 horsepower
need
proof. Well, Lawrence took number one qualifier in
street with a run just under seven seconds at 207 miles an hour. Turbo charging really makes nice power.
It's the only motor we have. So we need to have a package that last us a whole year
and it's proved to be reliable. All those horses will wreck the competition but that power comes with a price one that puts a dent in your pocketbook. The negative thing about going turbo charge is the additional cost,
the power plant and all the peripherals cost about a third more
and a Nitrous motor,
the Turbos are about to prove their worth in the finals going up against the king of Nitrous Pat Muy
who is pretty relaxed before the challenge.
We're just gonna go up and run our race, you know. Uh, uh, if we run good, we're hard to beat, you know. But, uh,
anything can happen. I don't think anybody for granted, we're gonna throw it at it and see what happens.
Lawrence had no worries about the Turbos doing their job. But in the semi final round, the clutch problem appeared that just had to be fixed. We weren't getting the tires to stick so
we soften the clutch a little bit in an effort to get the car out. And as it turned out, we softened it too much
as Lawrence and his crew worked on the clutch. The finals for Super Street were taking place.
It would be the former champion Jim Huber going up again.
The current points leader Jimmy Black,
the race started off with a 60 ft wheel stand from the extreme S 10. And in the end, Jim took the win.
The finals were close to an end as Patsey
and Lawrence Conley came to the line
in
versus Turbo shootout.
But unfortunately, the race was over before it began,
that loose clutch caused a red light for Lawrence and his sweet Turbos
close, but no cigar,
as I mentioned earlier, you know, Pat had a lot left. We did as well.
Uh Our clutch chain didn't do what we wanted.
Uh
We'll get him next time.
Horsepower T V's Quick Tech is brought to you by Wyotech.
Welcome back to Horsepower TV.
You know, true. High performance isn't just about going fast anymore.
A well built street machine is one that starts steers and stops equally. Well, you know, I'm always amazed at how many of you guys will come up to me and tell me how much horsepower you have. But hey, nobody ever gives me their 60 to 0 times. So let's talk about brakes today. Now, a modern disc brake system consists of a rotor
and a caliper that work together to turn forward motion
or kinetic energy into heat. Now, the rotor is the device that stores that heat until it can be dispelled into the atmosphere.
So it's important that you match the rotor size
to the type of work it's gonna be doing
speed, vehicle, weight and driving conditions, all determine your rotor needs.
Hey, I don't care what they say size does matter, especially when it comes to rotors. But equally important is the rotor design and how it's attached to the hub. Now, our friends at bear sent us this assortment of rotors so we can show you the differences first up
a cast iron 12 inch rotor with an integral hub. Now, this is a nice upgrade for most street applications, but it's less than an inch thick and it has straight veins for cooling. Now, both those things affect its ability to store and dissipate heat.
This next one on the other hand is over an inch thick so it can store more heat and it has curved veins for improved heat dissipation. Now, if you like straightening out a twisty road, well, this one will give you improved fade resistance.
Next is a 13 inch rotor
with an aluminum hub. it's lighter and the increased diameter improve your leverage for more efficient braking. Now, during the braking process, a gas is created by the pad material rubbing against the rotor. And this one's been drilled to allow those gasses to escape and keep the pad in full contact
if you've got an aggressive driving style and occasionally make a trip to the road course. Hey, this is the rotor for you.
Finally a rotor for an all out race car. Now, this 15 inch monster employs all the latest tricks and is capable of repeated, accurate high speed stops. Hey, hey, I hate to break in but you forgot to mention that high performance brakes also need a high temp bearing grease or like this grease here that red line makes. And what about calipers and pads? Well, that's a whole another subject one that we'll talk about next week
if you're taking your small block forward to the limit. Well, now you can bolster its bottom end with this main cap girdle from trick flow.
It connects all the main caps to minimize deflection and accommodate strokes up to 3.5 inches. A RP fasteners are part of the package in this set up. That'll set you back about 200 bucks.
My partner tells me I've got a big mouth but hey, I think this one
has me beat
Holly's Avenger Throttle body is available in sizes up to this monstrous 95 millimeter
that flows 1000 CFM and fits most 86 to 93 5 L Fords with either stock or aftermarket intakes. Now, there's a little bit of outlay about $300
where there's heat, there's wire in your engine compartment. That is. But these high temperature sleeves from moroso can protect your plug wires from extreme header heat made up next to, they just slide over your boots like this for protection up to 2300 degrees. Of course, you'll have to turn loose up some coal cash about 36 singles for a pair.