2016 Ram Dually Gets Fuel System Upgrades to Support 770 Horsepower

(NARRATOR)>> NOTHING BEATS A DIESEL FOR WORLD CLASS TOWING AND FUEL ECONOMY, BUT TODAY OUR DIESEL DUALLY GOES FROM TOW BEAST TO SLED PULLING MONSTER. WE'LL UP THE FUEL DELIVERY WITH HIGH PERFORMANCE ADD ONS WORTHY OF 800 HORSEPOWER. THAT AND MORE RIGHT NOW ON TRUCK TECH.

(LT)>> HEY GUYS, WELCOME TO TRUCK TECH. TODAY IS ALL ABOUT BIG TRUCKS AND BIG HORSEPOWER. WE HAVE OUR 2016 RAM BACK IN THE SHOP AND WE'RE GONNA BE INCREASING THE POWER OUTPUT BY WORKING ON THE FUEL SYSTEM.

(JEREMY)>> NOW WHEN IT COMES TO THE DIESEL PICK UP WORLD THERE'S TYPICALLY TWO TYPES OF TRUCKS. YOU GET THE FULL BLOWN RACE TRUCK BUT IT JUST DOESN'T HAVE ANY LOOKS. THEN ON THE OTHER HAND YOU GET THE SHOW TRUCK BUT IT HAS NO GO. SO WE'RE GONNA COMBINE THE BEST OF BOTH WORLDS AND BUILD ONE BAD TRUCK.

(LT)>> WE ALREADY GOT STARTED ON THE LOOKS DEPARTMENT. JEREMY ADDED A NICE GRAPHIC ON THE HOOD. THEN WE GOT SOME NEW BUMPERS, WHICH WE COLOR MATCHED ALONG WITH A HEADACHE RACK OUT ON THE REAR.

(JEREMY)>> AND WHEN WE GOT THE TRUCK WE BASE LINED IT WHERE IT MADE 350 HORSEPOWER. THEN WE DID THE UPGRADES LIKE YOU GUYS WOULD TYPICALLY DO AT HOME. WE GAINED ANOTHER 99 HORSEPOWER AND 231 POUND FEET OF TORQUE, BUT AS YOU GUYS KNOW FOR OLE LT OVER HERE THAT'S JUST NOT ENOUGH.

(LT)>> WELL LUCKILY I HAVE JUST THE PARTS TO FIX US UP.

(JEREMY)>> ALL RIGHT WELL I'M JUST GONNA STAND HERE AND RUB ON THE PAINT THEN.

(LT)>> SOME TIME AGO WE UPGRADED THE TURBO ON OUR RAM, DID A SECOND GEN SWAP, AND INSTALLED A 467. SO WE HAVE PLENTY OF AIR FLOW, BUT WE'RE NOT GONNA MAKE OUR HORSEPOWER GOAL OF ABOUT 800 ON THE STOCK FUEL SYSTEM. SO WE'RE GONNA UPGRADE EVERYTHING, AND WE'LL START WITH THE LIFT PUMP. THESE RAMS ACTUALLY COME FROM THE FACTORY WITH A SINGLE ELECTRIC LIFT PUMP IN THE TANK, BUT IT JUST ISN'T GONNA SUPPORT THE POWER THAT WE'RE AFTER. SO WE'RE GONNA INSTALL A FLEECE POWER FLOW IN TANK LIFT PUMP SETUP. NOW THIS THING INSTALLS JUST LIKE A FACTORY PUMP. THERE'S NO CUTTING OR MODIFICATION REQUIRED, BUT IT HAS TWO PUMPS THAT SIT DOWN INSIDE THE TANK, AND DUE TO ITS UNIQUE DESIGN THE BUCKET WILL ALWAYS BE SUBMERGED IN FUEL EVEN IF YOU HAVE NEARLY NOTHING IN THE TANK. SO IT'LL KEEP A STEADY SUPPLY OF LOW PRESSURE FUEL HEADING UP TO THE INJECTION PUMP. SPEAKING OF INJECTION PUMPS, THE FACTORY CPTHREE, WELL IT CAN ONLY SUPPORT ABOUT 550 TO 600 HORSEPOWER AND IT ACTUALLY DRAWS BACK FUELING ABOVE 3,000 RPM, WHICH IS REALLY GONNA HINDER HORSEPOWER. SO WE'RE GONNA INSTALL ANOTHER ONE. THIS IS A FLEECE CPTHREEK. NOW IT'S A 100 PERCENT BRAND NEW STOCK DISPLACEMENT INJECTION PUMP, BUT THERE'S ONE IMPORTANT MODIFICATION. THE FUELING CIRCUITS HAVE BEEN CHANGED TO ALLOW FULL FLOW EVEN ABOVE 3,000 RPM. SO WE'LL REALLY BE ABLE TO LET THAT CUMMINS SCREAM. TO INSTALL THE CPTHREEK WE GRABBED A DUAL PUMP KIT. NOW THIS BRACKET WILL MOUNT ONTO THE TIMING CASE JUST LIKE THE FACTORY PUMP DOES. SO IF WE EVER NEED TO SERVICE THE TRUCK AND REMOVE THE CYLINDER HEAD, WELL WE DON'T HAVE TO DISTURB THE PUMP. THE KIT COMES WITH EVERYTHING WE NEED, LIKE THE PULLEY, IDLER, BELT, BRACKET, HIGH PRESSURE INJECTION LINE, AND OF COURSE THE CONTROLLER. THIS WILL ALLOW YOUR FACTORY COMPUTER TO BE ABLE TO RUN BOTH INJECTION PUMPS AT THE SAME TIME. AND TO ROUND OUT THE FUEL SYSTEM WE GRABBED A SET OF 100 PERCENT OVER INJECTOR NOZZLES. SO WHEN WE COMBINE ALL THESE PARTS TOGETHER WE'LL EASILY HAVE THE FUEL FLOW THAT WE NEED TO MAKE 800 HORSEPOWER. TO INSTALL THE LIFT PUMP WE COULD REMOVE THE TANK BUT IT'S FULL OF FUEL. SO AN EASIER ALTERNATIVE IS TO REMOVE THE BED. IF YOU DON'T HAVE A CRANE OR A CHERRY PICKER A FEW STRONG FRIENDS WILL DO. WE'LL BLOW THE DIRT OFF THE TANK SO NOTHING FALLS INSIDE. THEN DISCONNECT THE FACTORY LINES AND WIRE HARNESS, KNOCK OFF THE RETAINING RING, AND REMOVE THE STOCK PUMP FROM THE TANK. THERE ARE A LOT OF BENEFITS TO RUNNING A LIFT PUMP INSIDE THE TANK INSTEAD OF EXTERNALLY MOUNTING IT ON THE FRAME RAIL. NUMBER ONE, YOU DON'T HAVE TO CUT A BIG HOLE IN THE BOTTOM OF THE TANK TO RUN THE SUMP AND NUMBER TWO, IT'S JUST A LOT QUIETER. NOW THE FLEECE PUMP LOOKS AND INSTALLS JUST LIKE THE ORIGINAL ONE WITH ONE MAJOR DIFFERENCE. IT HAS TWO PUMPS INSIDE, WHICH WILL SUPPORT A TOTAL OF 800 HORSEPOWER. NOW FOR ANY FUEL PUMP TO CONSTANTLY BE PUMPING FUEL AND NOT AIR IT HAS TO BE SUBMERGED, AND IF YOU LOOK DOWN AT THE BOTTOM OF THE FACTORY BUCKET IT'S STILL FULL OF FUEL EVEN THOUGH THERE'S NOTHING AROUND IT. SO THE FLEECE PUMP UTILIZES THE SAME DESIGN. THERE ARE TWO CHECK VALVES ON THE BOTTOM, WHICH LET FUEL IN BUT NOT OUT. THERE'S A SMALL VENTURI PUMP, WHICH HELPS SUCK FUEL IN, AND IN ADDITION TO THAT THEY RUN RETURN FUEL FROM THE ENGINE AND THEY PIPE IT DOWN INSIDE THE BUCKET SO IT'S ALWAYS BEING FILLED UP. NOW THIS IS GOOD BECAUSE IF YOU'RE RUNNING LOW ON FUEL IT'S GONNA BE SLOSHING AROUND AWAY FROM THE PICK UP, AND YOU DON'T WANT TO SUCK IN AIR AND FORCE IT UP TO THE ENGINE. SO THIS WAY YOU'RE ALWAYS GETTING CLEAN, PURE FUEL UP TO YOUR ENGINE. THE NEW PUMP SLIDES IN PLACE JUST LIKE THE OLD ONE CAME OUT. THERE'S NO CUSTOM PLUMBING NEEDED. JUST RECONNECT THE ORIGINAL FEED AND RETURN LINES.

(NARRATOR)>> NEXT, DO YOU SEE THE LIGHT?

(JEREMY)>> WELL MAN, WHAT DO YOU THINK ABOUT THAT, BRIGHT ENOUGH?

(JEREMY)>> HEY MAN, HOW'S IT GOING?

(LT)>> OH I'M HAVING THE TIME OF MY LIFE MAN.

(JEREMY)>> YOU GOT ANY BLOODY KNUCKLES YET?

(LT)>> NO, I'M WEARING GLOVES.

(JEREMY)>> SO WHAT HAVE YOU DONE SO FAR?

(LT)>> WELL I GOT THE LIFT PUMP IN THE TANK, GOT THE BED BACK ON, AND NOW I'M GETTING READY TO PUT THE DUAL CPTHREE KIT ON.

(JEREMY)>> SO YOU'VE HAD A LOT OF FUN THEN. YOU NEED SOME HELP?

(LT)>> DO YOU WANT TO COME IN AND GIVE ME A HAND?

(JEREMY)>> YEAH I'LL HELP YOU.

(LT)>> ALL RIGHT.

(JEREMY)>> I'M JUST MESSING WITH YOU. I'M NOT GONNA HELP YOU. I'VE GOT SOMETHING BETTER TO DO.

(LT)>> YOU JERK!

(JEREMY)>> OUR RAM IS CERTAINLY COMING ALONG IN THE LOOKS DEPARTMENT BUT WE'RE NOT DONE YET. THE NEXT THING WE PLAN TO DO IS ADD A WHOLE BUNCH OF LIGHTS, AND QUAKE LED SENT US OVER EVERYTHING WE NEED TO PRETTY MUCH LIGHT UP THIS END OF THE COUNTRY. WE'VE GOT A 32 INCH 180 WATT ULTRA ACCENT LIGHT, A 22 INCH LIGHT, AND EVERYTHING IN BETWEEN ALL THE WAY DOWN TO THREE INCH ACCENT LIGHTS THAT WILL WORK WITH OUR NEW BUMPERS. NOW WHAT'S REALLY COOL ABOUT THESE ULTRA ACCENT LIGHTS IS YOU HAVE A WIDE RANGE OF BACKGROUND COLORS TO CHOOSE FROM, AND THAT'S MADE EASY BY USING THE QUAKE QUAD LOCK CONTROLLER. THIS WILL ALLOW YOU TO PICK THROUGH THOSE COLORS BUT ALSO CONTROL FADING, DIMMING, AND FLASHING JUST BY HITTING A BUTTON ON THE SUPPLIED KEY FOB. THIS ALSO ALLOWS YOU TO CONTROL FIVE DIFFERENT LIGHTING ZONES ON THE TRUCK AND WIRE THESE LIGHTS IN TO BE BREAK LIGHTS, FLASHERS, TURN SIGNALS, AND MORE.

(LT)>> BACK UNDER THE HOOD OF THE RAM WE NEED TO REMOVE A FEW PARTS ON THE FRONT OF THE ENGINE TO GAIN ACCESS TO THE BELT. SO WE'LL PULL THE FAN SHROUD BRACKETS, LOOSEN THE FAN NUT WITH A 48 MILLIMETER WRENCH. THEN WE CAN LIFT THE FAN AND SHROUD OUT AT THE SAME TIME. I'VE GOT SOME BAD NEWS FOR YOU THOUGH.

(JEREMY)>> WHAT'S THAT?

(LT)>> YOU JUST WENT AND LIED ON NATIONAL TELEVISION.

(JEREMY)>> HOW'S THAT?

(LT)>> YOU SAID YOU WEREN'T GONNA HELP ME AND YOU HELPED ME.

WE HAVE TO REMOVE A PLUG IN THE BACK OF THE STOCK INJECTION PUMP BUT BE VERY CAREFUL SO NOTHING FALLS OUT. WE'LL SWITCH THE SMALL SPRING OVER FROM THE STOCK PLUG TO THE SUPPLIED FITTING AND WE'LL REINSTALL IT MAKING SURE THAT THE CHECK BALL IS STILL IN PLACE BECAUSE WITHOUT IT YOUR TRUCK WON'T START. THEN TORQUE THE FITTING.

THE BOSCH CPTHREE IS A PISTON STYLE HIGH PRESSURE INJECTION PUMP THAT'S ACTUALLY FOUND ON BOTH THE CUMMINS AND THE GM DURAMAX. NOW UNDER WIDE OPEN THROTTLE THIS THING CAN ACTUALLY PUMP OUT BETWEEN 26,000 AND 29,000 PSI. IT'S A PRETTY SERIOUS PUMP, AND ON THE BACK THERE ARE THREE FITTINGS. THIS THREADED GUY RIGHT HERE, WELL THAT'S THE MAIN FEED THAT NORMALLY GOES TO THE RAIL. THIS ONE IS THE LOW PRESSURE INLET, WHICH BASICALLY FUEL FROM THE LIFT PUMP COMES IN, AND THIS IS THE LOW PRESSURE RETURN WHERE EXCESS FUEL IS SIMPLY SENT BACK TO THE TANK. EARLIER YOU SAW US INSTALL A FITTING IN THE BOTTOM OF THE LOWER INJECTION PUMP. THAT'S ACTUALLY WHERE THE UPPER PUMP IS GONNA FEED INTO, BUT IT'S BASICALLY THE SAME THING AS PLUMBING THIS INTO THE FUEL RAIL BECAUSE THESE SHARE A COMMON CAVITY. SO THE ONLY THING WE HAVE LEFT TO DO NOW IS TO GET THE BRACKET MOCKED UP AND BOLTED ONTO THE TRUCK. THE MAIN BRACKET GOES TOGETHER BY INSTALLING SOME CARRIAGE BOLTS. THEN WE'LL ASSEMBLE THE IDLER PULLEY AND SPACER. THE BRACKET INSTALLS INTO FOUR EXISTING HOLES IN THE TIMING CASE, AND THE HARDWARE GETS TORQUED. NEXT THE FLEECE CPTHREEK SLIDES INTO THE BRACKET AND MORE CARRIAGE BOLTS HOLD IT IN PLACE.

WHILE THE FACTORY CPTHREE IS DRIVEN BY A GEAR, THE SECOND PUMP IS DRIVEN BY THE SERPENTINE BELT. WITH THE SUPPLIED HEAVY DUTY BELT ROUTED AND IN PLACE, WE CAN TORQUE THE MAIN NUT ON THE INJECTION PUMP.

(JEREMY)>> I'VE MADE SOME PROGRESS INSTALLING THE QUAKE LED'S INTO OUR REAR BUMPER. WE'VE GOT THE NINE INCH SLIM LIGHT BAR HERE AND THE FOUR AND A HALF INCH ULTRA SPOT IN THE CENTER OF THE BUMPER, AND BOTH OF THESE WILL BE WIRED IN AS BACK UP LIGHTS, WHICH ALONG WITH OUR FACTORY BACK UP CAMERA WILL MAKE IT REALLY EASY TO HOOK UP TO A TRAILER OR A SLED AT NIGHT. AND IT'S NOT COINCIDENCE THAT THESE LIGHTS LOOK LIKE THEY WERE DESIGNED FOR THIS BUMPER, BUT ACTUALLY IT'S THE OPPOSITE. THE CUTOUTS IN THIS BUMPER WERE DESIGNED SPECIFICALLY FOR THESE ACCENT LIGHTS, AND ONCE I'M DONE HERE WE'VE GOT MORE QUAKE LED'S TO INSTALL IN THE HEADACHE RACK AND FRONT BUMPER. I DON'T KNOW ABOUT YOU BUT WHEN I BUY A NEW TRUCK I WANT TO DECK IT OUT SO IT STANDS OUT FROM EVERY OTHER TRUCK ON THE ROAD, AND WHAT BETTER WAY TO DO THAT THAN WITH SOME COOL LIGHTS. BUT NOT ONLY ARE THEY FOR LOOKS. WHEN YOU'RE OUT AT NIGHT WORKING IN THE YARD OR ON THE FARM YOU CAN GUARANTEE THESE LIGHTS WILL BE LIFE SAVERS. NOW WE CAN MOVE ON TO THE HEADACHE RACK. WE'LL START UP TOP BY INSTALLING THE EIGHT INCH ULTRA. THEN ON THE SIDES A SPOT LIGHT UP TOP AND A FLOOD LIGHT ON THE BOTTOM, AND WE CAN MAKE THE PROPER CONNECTIONS.

WELL MAN WHAT DO YOU THINK ABOUT THAT, BRIGHT ENOUGH?

(LT)>> WELL YOU KNOW IT'S KIND OF LIKE LOOKING AT THE SUN. SO YEAH, THAT'LL DO IT.

(JEREMY)>> YOU GONNA CARRY THAT HELMET AROUND WITH YOU?

(LT)>> I'M GONNA HAND ONE OUT TO ALL THE PEOPLE WHO DRIVE AROUND US.

(NARRATOR)>> NEXT A MONSTER INTAKE FOR OUR RAM.

(LT)>> PROGRESS CONTINUES ON OUR FUEL SYSTEM BY REMOVING THE STOCK FEED AND RETURN LINES, AND INSTALLING NEW AN ADAPTERS INTO BOTH INJECTION PUMPS.

NOW THE PUMP TO PUMP HIGH PRESSURE LINE CAN BE INSTALLED. THEN WE CAN CONNECT THE PROVIDED THREEEIGHTHS INCH RETURN AND HALF INCH FEED LINES TO BOTH PUMPS.

NOW PLUG IN THE DUAL CPTHREE CONTROLLER TO THE FACTORY WIRE HARNESS, AND BOTH PUMPS WILL BE CONTROLLED BY YOUR COMPUTER WITHOUT ANY TUNING CHANGES NEEDED.

THAT PRETTY MUCH WRAPS UP THE INSTALLATION OF OUR DUAL CPTHREE SETUP. REMEMBER BOTH OF THESE PUMPS TOGETHER WILL SUPPORT 1,200 HORSEPOWER, AND IF THAT'S STILL NOT ENOUGH FOR YOU YOU COULD THROW ON A PAIR OF STROKER PUMPS AND THE SKY IS THE LIMIT. NOW I'VE GOT TO THROW THE FAN BACK ON AND THE SHROUD BUT THERE'S ONE MORE PART THAT WE HAVE TO CHANGE AND THAT'S BECAUSE THIS PUMP SITS UP JUST A LITTLE BIT HIGHER IN THE ENGINE BAY. THE FACTORY INTAKE HORN ACTUALLY WON'T CLEAR THE DUAL CPTHREES BUT THAT'S OKAY BECAUSE IT ONLY FLOWS 432 CFM, AND THAT'S A MAJOR RESTRICTION IF WE'RE TRYING TO MAKE 800 HORSEPOWER. SO WE'RE GOING TO BE REPLACING IT WITH THIS, A BANKS MONSTER RAM INTAKE. NOW THIS THING WILL FLOW 1,008 CFM AND IT'S EASY TO SEE WHY IT'LL MOVE SO MUCH AIR. IT HAS A LARGE FOUR INCH INLET THAT IS MUCH BIGGER THAN THE STOCK ONE, AND WHERE IT ENTERS THE CYLINDER HEAD HAS BEEN GREATLY IMPROVED, AND IT HAS A REALLY NICE GRADUAL CURVE TO IT. NOW YOU CAN INSTALL THIS ON THE FACTORY GRID HEATER, BUT IF YOU WANT MAXIMUM AIR FLOW YOU'LL ALSO WANT TO INSTALL ONE OF THESE BILLET HEATER BLOCK OFF PLATES. AND OF COURSE WE HAD EVERYTHING POWDER COATED IN ILLUSION CHERRY TO MATCH THE THEME WE HAVE GOING ON WITH THE REST OF THE ENGINE. BECAUSE THE FACTORY GRID HEATER SITS UNDERNEATH THE FUEL RAIL WE'LL HAVE TO MOVE A FEW THINGS OUT OF THE WAY TO GAIN ACCESS. EACH INJECTOR LINE IS UNSCREWED FROM THE RAIL AND CYLINDER HEAD WITH A 19 MILLIMETER WRENCH, AND THE FUEL RAIL CAN BE REMOVED. NOW YOU KEEP HEARING ME REFER TO THIS AS COMMON RAIL INJECTION, AND THIS IS WHAT IT'S ALL ABOUT. THIS IS A FUEL RAIL THAT IS COMMON TO ALL SIX CYLINDERS, AND IT RECEIVES PRESSURIZED FUEL FROM THE INJECTION PUMP. NOW THIS IS BASICALLY THE SAME EXACT SETUP THAT YOU'D FIND ON A MULTIPORT INJECTED GASOLINE ENGINE EXCEPT IN DIESELS THE TECHNOLOGY'S ONLY ABOUT 20 YEARS OLD. NEXT THE FACTORY PLENUM COVER LIFTS AWAY AND WE'LL VACUUM UP THE DIRT THAT HAS SETTLED ON THE ENGINE, CLEAN UP THE SEALING SURFACE, AND SLIDE ON A NEW GASKET. THE BANKS BILLET HEATER DELETE PLATE GOES ON, FOLLOWED BY FOUR SPACERS. THE FUEL RAIL GOES BACK INTO PLACE AND GETS BOLTED DOWN. [ drill spinning ]

(LT)>> NOW THE FUEL LINES ARE REINSTALLED FROM THE BACK TO FRONT AND THE NUMBER ONE FUEL LINE IS ACTUALLY REPLACED WITH A NEW ONE FROM THE BANKS KIT, WHICH MAKES EXTRA ROOM FOR THE MONSTER RAM INTAKE. NOW WE'LL SWAP OVER THE MAP SENSOR AND BOOST GAUGE FITTING...

...AND INSTALL THE DRIVER'S SIDE CHARGE PIPE INTO THE INTERCOOLER. THE COUPLER GOES ONTO THE INTAKE. A GASKET GOES ON AND THE INTAKE CONNECTS TO THE CHARGE PIPE AND GETS BOLTED TO THE ENGINE AND TIGHTENED UP.

(NARRATOR)>> NEXT WE'LL FIRE HER UP!

(LT)>> I HAD A CHANCE TO TOP OFF THE COOLANT. I'VE GOT THE FAN AND SHROUD ON AS WELL AS THE UPPER RADIATOR HOSE. SO THIS CUMMINS IS READY TO FIRE UP. NOW WE HAD THE COMPLETE FUEL SYSTEM DRAINED. SO IT IS GONNA CRANK OVER FOR A LITTLE BIT BEFORE SHE RUNS. NOW ON AN OLDER MECHANICALLY INJECTED ENGINE IT'S ACTUALLY COMMON PLACE TO CRACK LOOSE AN INJECTOR LINE AND LET SOME OF THE AIR OUT TO HELP IT FIRE UP QUICKER. A COMMON RAIL DIESEL IS ACTUALLY SELF BLEEDING. SO THERE'S NO NEED TO CRACK LOOSE AN INJECTOR LINE. IN FACT YOU DON'T WANT TO DO IT BECAUSE THE FUEL PRESSURE IS SO GREAT YOU COULD ACTUALLY CUT YOURSELF FROM THE FUEL SPRAY.

I'M GONNA CYCLE THE KEY A FEW TIMES, WHICH WILL LET THE ELECTRIC LIFT PUMP RUN AND BRING FUEL UP TO THE INJECTION PUMPS. AFTER THAT WE JUST CRANK IT OVER AND WAIT. [ engine cranking ] [ engine starts ]

(LT)>> YOU WANT TO PAY REALLY CLOSE ATTENTION THE FIRST TIME YOU FIRE UP AN ENGINE AFTER DOING MAJOR WORK ON IT. WE HAD THE WHOLE FUEL SYSTEM APART AS WELL AS THE COOLING SYSTEM, AND WE'RE LOOKING FOR LEAKS. THERE'S NOTHING SPRAYING OUT UP TOP, AND THERE'S NOTHING DRIPPING DOWN BELOW. SO WE'RE GOOD TO GO. NOW THE ONLY THING WE DIDN'T GET TO TODAY ARE THE INJECTOR NOZZLES AND THAT'S BECAUSE WE HAVE TO GET INSIDE THE VALVE COVER, AND I'M ACTUALLY WAITING ON A FEW MORE PARTS. I'M GONNA GET SOME VALVE SPRINGS, PUSH RODS, OF COURSE THE INJECTOR NOZZLES, AND SOME HEAD STUDS. SO WE'RE JUST GONNA KNOCK THAT ALL OUT AT ONCE, BUT THIS RAM IS ONE STEP CLOSER TO GETTING BACK ON THE RACE TRACK.

(JEREMY)>> WE HAVE THIS RAM LOOKING PRETTY GOOD AND RUNNING RIGHT BY ADDING SOME VERY COOL PARTS TO THE OUTSIDE AND SOME HIGH PERFORMANCE PARTS UNDER THE HOOD. NOW WHEN IT COMES TO UPGRADES LIKE WE'RE DOING HERE IT CAN GET VERY EXPENSIVE. SO MOST PEOPLE HAVE TO TAKE IT IN STAGES, BUT TODAY I'M GONNA SHOW YOU SOMETHING YOU CAN DO TO REALLY CLEAN UP THE LOOKS OF YOUR TRUCK AND NOT SPEND A DIME, AND THAT'S REMOVING THESE HIDEOUS BADGES. NOW I KNOW WHAT YOU'RE THINKING. THESE EMBLEMS AREN'T UGLY. SO WHY WOULD I WANT TO REMOVE THEM? WELL IT'S ALL ABOUT PREFERENCE. PERSONALLY I LIKE THE CLEAN LOOK OF REMOVING SOME OF THE FACTORY STYLING CUES LIKE THE BADGES. NOW ON OUR '16 RAM THESE EMBLEMS ARE HELD ON WITH DOUBLE SIDED TAPE, BUT ON SOME OLDER TRUCKS THE EMBLEMS ACTUALLY BOLT ON, LIKE THIS EMBLEM OFF OF AN OLD CUTLASS. SO IF WE REMOVE THIS THERE WOULD BE HOLES IN THE PANEL, BUT TYPICALLY YOU CAN DO A LITTLE RESEARCH ONLINE AND FIND OUT HOW YOUR EMBLEMS ARE ATTACHED. NOW WHEN I'M REMOVING THE STICK EMBLEMS LIKE WE ARE HERE I LIKE TO USE A HEAT GUN, SOME FISHING LINE, AND WAX AND GREASE REMOVER, BUT THERE ARE A FEW OTHER TOOLS YOU CAN USE AS WELL. THE FIRST STEP IS TO HEAT UP THE BADGE WE PLAN TO REMOVE. THIS WILL SOFTEN AND LOOSEN UP THE DOUBLE SIDED TAPE THAT HOLDS IT ON. ONCE YOU HAVE IT NICE AND WARM QUICKLY TAKE YOUR LIKE AND SLICE THROUGH THE TAPE AS CLOSE TO THE PAINT AS YOU CAN. NOW THE CLOSER YOU GET TO THE PAINT THE BETTER BECAUSE THAT'S LESS ADHESIVE THAT WILL BE LEFT BEHIND BUT YOU CAN SEE WE'VE GOT THE MAJORITY OF IT STILL THERE BUT THERE ARE A FEW DIFFERENT WAYS YOU CAN REMOVE THIS. FIRST TAKE THE WAX AND GREASE REMOVER AND LOAD UP A PAPER TOWEL. THEN HOLD IT ON THE ADHESIVE FOR ABOUT ONE MINUTE. THIS WILL SOFTEN IT UP AND RELEASE IT FROM THE PAINT. THE SECOND METHOD IS TO CONTINUE USING HEAT. THIS WILL ALSO HELP TO RELEASE IT FROM THE PAINT. TYPICALLY I DON'T USE THE HEAT RIGHT ON THE PAINT LIKE THIS UNLESS IT'S A MUST. IT COULD MELT THE PAINT. THE LAST AND EASIEST WAY TO DO THIS IS WITH AN ERASER WHEEL. YOU CAN PICK ONE OF THESE UP AT ALMOST ANY PARTS STORE. IT'S USED WITH A CUTOFF TOOL, AN ANGLE GRINDER OR A DRILL. AND WITH JUST A LITTLE WORK IT WILL REMOVE THE ADHESIVE. IT'S A GREAT TOOL BECAUSE IT WON'T DAMAGE YOUR PAINT. ALL RIGHT, WELL LESS THAN FIVE MINUTES OF TIME AND NOT A PENNY SPENT YOU CAN SEE HOW IT EASY IT IS TO REMOVE THESE EMBLEMS. NOW OBVIOUSLY I'VE STILL GOT QUITE A WAYS TO GO AND WE'VE GOT TO HOP ON THE OTHER SIDE OF THE TRUCK AND DO THE SAME THING, BUT THE GREAT THING ABOUT DOING IT THIS WAY IS WE DID NOT RUIN ANY OF THESE LETTERS. SO IF YOU GET ALL OF THIS OFF, YOU DECIDE YOU DON'T LIKE IT, NOT A BIG DEAL. ADD A LITTLE DOUBLE SIDED TAPE AND YOU CAN PUT IT RIGHT BACK.

(LT)>> ROCK AUTO DOT COM OFFERS A COMPLETE LINE OF OEM REPLACEMENT OR RESTORATION PARTS FOR YOUR MODERN AND CLASSIC RIDE, BUT I BET YOU DIDN'T KNOW THAT THEY ALSO OFFER A COMPLETE LINE OF SPECIALTY FLUIDS FOR YOU IMPORT OR CONVENTIONAL OR SYNTHETIC FLUIDS FOR YOUR DOMESTIC. YOU CAN GET PENTOSIN POWER STEERING FLUID OR COOLANT FOR YOUR EUROPEAN CAR, CVT FLUID FOR YOUR NISSAN OR INFINITY, AS WELL AS MANY OTHER FLUIDS. SO BE SURE TO CHECK OUT ROCK AUTO DOT COM FOR ALL YOUR SPECIALTY LUBRICATION NEEDS.

(JEREMY)>> THE PROBLEM WITH HITCH BALL LOCKS IS THEY COME WITH YET ANOTHER KEY FOR YOUR KEY RING, OR A COMBINATION YOU CAN'T REMEMBER. WELL BOLT LOOK HAS THE ANSWER WITH THEIR FULL LINE OF LOCKS THAT CAN BE PROGRAMMED TO YOUR TRUCK KEY. HERE'S HOW IT WORKS. TEAR OFF THE LOCK SEAL TAB, INSERT YOUR TRUCK KEY, AND TURN IT CLOCKWISE ALL THE WAY UNTIL IT STOPS. THE LOCK IS NOW PROGRAMMED TO YOUR KEY, AND YOU CAN ADD AS MANY PAD LOCKS OR CABLE LOCKS AS YOU WANT. ALL PROGRAMMABLE TO THE SAME KEY. TO FIND AN IN STORE OR ONLINE RETAIL OUTLET VISIT BOLT LOCK DOT COM, AND TO GET MORE INFO ON ANY OF OUR OTHER BUILDS CHECK OUT POWERNATION TV DOT COM. THANKS FOR WATCHING TRUCK TECH, WE'LL SEE YOU NEXT TIME!