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(NARRATOR)>> SHE'LL BE LEAN AND LOW, BUT NOT BEFORE OUR MODELA HOT ROD GETS SERIOUS FRAME MODS. THE GUYS WILL FOUR LINK THE REAR, BUT NOT BEFORE WE CUT, CHOP, AND REBUILD THIS FRAME SECTION. ALL THAT AND MORE TODAY ON TRUCK TECH.
(LT)>> WELCOME TO TRUCK TECH, WHERE TODAY WE'RE GOING TO BE TAKING THINGS JUST A LITTLE BIT OLD SCHOOL AND WORKING ON OUR 1930 MODELA STREET ROD.
(JEREMY)>> THIS IS A LONG TERM PROJECT WE'VE HAD HANGING OUT IN THE SHOP WITH US FOR SOME TIME NOW, BUT WE'RE ABOUT HALF WAY THROUGH MAKING THIS TRUCK SIT MUCH LOWER TO THE GROUND.
(LT)>> SO LAST TIME YOU GUYS SAW IT WE WERE UP FRONT WORKING ON THE FRAME. WE CUT IT IN HALF, AND RAISED IT EIGHT INCHES, AND STRETCHED IT TOO. THAT'S GONNA MAKE THE CAB SIT A LOT CLOSER TO THE GROUND, BUT WE HAVEN'T FINISHED THE JOB AND THAT'S OUT BACK. SO WE'LL BE DOING THAT TODAY.
(JEREMY)>> BUT THIS TIME WE'RE GONNA DO THINGS A BIT DIFFERENTLY. OUT FRONT WE WANTED TO KEEP THE ORIGINAL SUSPENSION AND STEERING GEOMETRY UNTOUCHED, BUT OUT BACK WE'RE GONNA CHANGE THINGS UP A BIT.
(LT)>> SO RIGHT NOW THE AXLE SITS RIGHT HERE ON THE TRUCK, AND THE BACK OF THE FRAME IS ONLY EIGHT INCHES BEYOND THAT. THE TROUBLE IS THE BED, IT STICKS OUT 60 INCHES BEHIND THE BACK OF THE CAB. SO WHEN WE GOT TO MOUNT THINGS LIKE A FUEL CELL, A BATTERY, OR EVEN THE BED, THERE'S NOTHING BACK HERE TO SUPPORT IT. SO IN ADDITION TO RAISING THE REAR OF THE FRAME EIGHT INCHES WE'RE ALSO GOING TO BE EXTENDING IT THE FULL 60 INCHES BEHIND THE BACK OF THE CAB.
(JEREMY)>> BUT THAT'S NOT ALL. SINCE THE CABS OF THESE TRUCKS ARE SO SHORT WE WANT TO MAKE THINGS A LITTLE MORE COMFORTABLE INSIDE. SO WE PLAN TO STRETCH OUR CAB FIVE INCHES A LITTLE LATER ON. THAT MEANS MORE MODIFICATIONS TO OUR FRAME. SO TODAY WE PLAN TO DO ALL OF THE MODIFICATIONS OUT BACK. PLUS ADD A LITTLE MATERIAL TO CENTER OF OUR FRAME TO MATCH OUR STRETCHED CAB.
(LT)>> TO MATCH THE FRONT END OF THE FRAME WE NEED TO RAISE THE REAR EIGHT INCHES, BUT THIS SURFACE RIGHT HERE IS ACTUALLY THE MOST IMPORTANT THAT WE NEED TO MEASURE FROM BECAUSE IT'S THE BUMP STOP, OR WHERE THE AXLE TRAVELS TOO AT FULL COMPRESSION. SO WE ADD EIGHT INCHES, BUT THAT'LL BE THE BOTTOM OF THE FRAME RAIL, AND WE'RE USING TWO BY FOUR SQUARE TUBE. SO THAT MEANS THE TOP IS GOING TO BE WAY UP HERE AT A FOOT.
(JEREMY)>> SO THIS GIVES YOU A GOOD IDEA WHERE THE FRAME WILL RUN ONCE WE MAKE THE TRANSITION. WE STILL HAVE PLENTY OF ROOM TO RUN THE BED AND WE WON'T HAVE ANY CLEARANCE ISSUES. SO THE NEXT THING WE NEED TO FIGURE OUT IS WHERE TO MAKE OUR CUT. WE KNOW WE NEED TO ALLOW FIVE INCHES FOR THE STRETCH OF THE CAB, AND WE NEED TO MAKE THE CUT BEFORE THE FRAME STARTS TO NARROW UP. SO THAT MEANS WE NEED TO MAKE THE CUT SOMEWHERE IN HERE.
(LT)>> WITH THE HELP OF OUR CRANE, THE CAB IS LIFTED OFF THE FRAME AND MOVED OUT OF THE WAY.
(JEREMY)>> IT'S ALL YOU.
NOW WE'LL CUT THE TACK WELDS THAT HOLD THE FRAME SUPPORTS TO THE TABLE AND HAMMER THEM LOOSE. SO WE CAN REPOSITION IT AND HAVE ROOM TO WORK OUT BACK.
(JEREMY)>> ALL RIGHT, WE'RE GONNA LEAVE THE FOUR LEGS WE HAVE IN THE CENTER BUT WE'RE GONNA REMOVE THESE SINCE WE'RE DONE WITH THE FRONT END. THEY'LL JUST BE HANGING OFF IN THE WAY.
(LT)>> ALL RIGHT, LET'S SLIDE THIS BAD BOY UP.
ALL RIGHT, CENTER IT UP, WELD HER DOWN!
(JEREMY)>> SLIDE IT YOUR WAY A LITTLE BIT.
(LT)>> SIX AND THREE QUARTERS.
(JEREMY)>> PRETTY DAMN CLOSE. [ welder crackling ]
(LT)>> ALL RIGHT, SO THE BACK OF OUR CAB USED TO BE HERE. WE'RE ADDING FIVE MORE INCHES, AND I WANT TO GET RID OF THE REST OF THE FRAME AND LEAVE ENOUGH MATERIAL TO ATTACH TO. SO WE'RE GONNA CUT IT OFF SOMEWHERE BACK THERE. [ saw cutting metal ]
(JEREMY)>> AS ALWAYS, WHEN WORKING WITH STEEL MAKE SURE YOU'RE WEARING PROPER SAFETY GEAR. CUTTING AND GRINDING WILL CREATE A LOT OF SPARKS. SO YOU WANT TO STAY SAFE. WITH THE LAST CUT MADE, WE'LL REMOVE THE OLD REAR FRAME SECTION.
(LT)>> NOW WE CAN PLAN OUT OUR NEW REAR FRAME RAILS. THE FIRST LINE WILL REPRESENT THE EXISTING PORTION OF THE FRAME. THEN I'LL MAKE ANOTHER LINE 12 INCHES UP FROM THE BOTTOM OF THE REAR. THEN ANOTHER MARK FOUR INCHES EVEN HIGHER TO SHOW THE TOP. USING A COMBINATION SQUARE, I'LL MARK A 45 DEGREE LINE FOR THE TRANSITION SECTION. A FEW MORE MARKS EXACTLY FOUR INCHES APART WILL HELP MAKE ANOTHER LINE FOR THE OTHER SIDE. I'LL ERASE THE EXTRA MARKS WITH ACETONE, AND MAKE A LINE 22.5 DEGREES, BISECTING THE 45 DEGREE ANGLE TO SHOW WHERE THE MITRE CUTS WILL BE.
(JEREMY)>> ALL RIGHT, WE'VE GOT OUR PLAN PRETTY MUCH MAPPED OUT OVER AT THE TABLE, AND WE'VE GOT OUR SAW SET UP AT AN ANGLE WE THINK WILL WORK. SO TO VERIFY WE'RE GETTING THE ANGLE WE NEED WE'RE GONNA USE A COUPLE OF PIECES OF TWO BY FOUR JUST TO PRACTICE ON SINCE WOOD'S CHEAP BEFORE WE GET ONTO OUR METAL. I'LL MAKE THE FIRST CUT FOR THE SHORT PIECE AND BRING IT BACK TO THE TABLE TO CHECK IT AGAINST OUR PATTERN, AND IT'S CLEARLY NOT RIGHT. SO I'LL MAKE A QUICK ADJUSTMENT TO THE FENCE, AND MAKE A FEW MORE CUTS. [ saw cutting metal ]
(JEREMY)>> THIS TIME EVERYTHING MATCHES UP WHERE WE WANT IT. SO WE'RE READY TO START CUTTING METAL.
(NARRATOR)>> NEXT, SQUARING UP OUR NEWLY CHOPPED UP FRAME.
(JEREMY)>> WELCOME BACK TO TRUCK TECH. WE'RE READY TO CUT THE FRAME RAILS FOR OUR CHOPPED MODELA TRUCK. I FEEL LIKE IT'S MOVING ON ME. LIKE THERE'S SOMEONE AT THE OTHER THAT'S...
(LT)>> YOU GOT IT LINED UP?
(JEREMY)>> NOT WHEN YOU KEEP MOVING IT.
(LT)>> IS IT LINED UP YET?
(JEREMY)>> WE HAVE THE ANGLE OF THE SAW DIALED IN. SO WE CAN BEGIN CUTTING OUR FRAME RAILS FROM A 20 FOOT SECTION OF TWO BY FOUR 120 WALL MILD STEEL. WE'LL START BY CUTTING THE SHORT MIDDLE SECTION WITH A SAME ANGLE MITRE ON EACH END. THEN WE'LL FLIP THE PIECE OVER AND MAKE ANOTHER ANGLE CUT IN THE OPPOSITE DIRECTION. THEN MEASURE AND MARK FOR A SQUARE CUT ON THE LONGER REAR SECTION. WE'LL HAVE TO ADJUST THE SAW BACK TO ZERO AND MAKE THE CUT.
THEN REPEAT THE SAME PROCESS FOR CUTTING THE FRAME SECTIONS FOR THE OPPOSITE SIDE OF THE TRUCK. ALL RIGHT, WE'VE GOT ALL FOUR PIECES OF METAL CUT OUT. WE KNOW EVERYTHING'S READY TO GO AND OUR MEASUREMENTS ARE CORRECT BECAUSE WE TOOK THE TIME TO CUT IT OUT OF WOOD A LITTLE BIT AGO. SO LT, HERE YOU GO MAN, ALL READY TO WELD!
(LT)>> HEY YOU GOT IT. ALL RIGHT, SO WE WENT AHEAD AND WE TOOK THE TIME TO GET THESE THINGS CLAMPED UP, AND IT MAKES ME HAPPY BECAUSE THIS SEAM DOWN THE MIDDLE OF THE TUBE LINES UP, AND THEY'RE BOTH GONNA BE ON THE INSIDE OF THE FRAME. I'M A LITTLE BIT OCD, BUT THAT'S ALL RIGHT. SO ANYWAY, WE'RE GONNA TACK THIS THING, FLIP IT, TACK THE OTHER SIDE, AND BURN IT IN FOR GOOD. SINCE WE PLAN ON COVERING THIS SEAM LATER ON WITH A REINFORCEMENT PLATE, I'M GONNA USE A TIG WELDER SO WE CAN GET EXCELLENT PENETRATION ON THE EIGHTH INCH THICK MATERIAL WITHOUT HAVING A LARGE BEAD ABOVE THE SURFACE, WHICH WE'D HAVE TO GRIND LATER ON. AFTER MAKING A COUPLE OF PASSES, OUR TWO REAR FRAME SECTIONS ARE DONE.
(JEREMY)>> OKAY, A LITTLE EARLIER WE CUT THE REAR OF OUR FRAME SECTION AWAY SO WE COULD HAVE SOME ROOM TO WORK ON OUR TABLE. NOW WE HAVE OUR MEASUREMENTS PULLED AND OUR LINES LAID DOWN ON THE FRAME WHERE WE CAN MAKE SOME PRECISE CUTS SO WE CAN GET OUR NEW FRAME RAILS PATCHED. [ saw cutting metal ]
(LT)>> SINCE THE BOTTOM OF THE STOCK FRAME GETS NARROWER HERE, WE'RE GONNA BE MAKING A SLICE ON THE LOWER EDGE ABOUT TWO INCHES IN. THEN BEND IT DOWN SO IT'LL LINE UP WITH THE BEVEL. THEN WE'LL CLEAN BOTH EDGES OF THE JOINT FOR WELDING. THAT'LL DO IT. BRING IN THE REAR SECTION, AND CLAMP IT TEMPORARILY IN PLACE WITH A TWO BY FOUR.
RINSE AND REPEAT ON THE OTHER SIDE.
ALL RIGHT, WE'VE GOT THE FRAME RAILS LEVEL AS THEY RUN FRONT TO BACK AND SIDE TO SIDE, BUT THE ONLY THING THAT WE HAVEN'T CHECKED YET IS TO SEE IF THEY'RE PARALLEL AS THEY RUN FRONT TO BACK LOOKING DOWN FROM THE TOP.
(JEREMY)>> SO THE NEXT THING WE'RE GONNA DO IS PUT A TACK RIGHT IN THE CENTER OF THE FRAME RAIL UP TOP. THIS IS GONNA HELP TO HOLD EVERYTHING IN PLACE BUT STILL ALLOW US TO HAVE ENOUGH MOVEMENT TO GET EVERYTHING SQUARED UP. [ welder crackling ]
(LT)>> ALL WE NEED NOW IS ONE MEDIUM TACK WELD.
OUT BACK WE'LL ATTACH A PLUMB BOB TO THE CENTER OF EACH FRAME RAIL. THEN WE CAN MEASURE IN AN "X" PATTERN FROM THE SAME POINT ON EACH SIDE. ALL IT TAKES IS A LITTLE ADJUSTMENT, AND WHEN EACH SIDE MEASURES THE SAME WE CAN MOVE ON.
(JEREMY)>> SOME THREE QUARTER INCH SQUARE STOCK IS USED TO MAKE SOME LEGS, WHICH CAN BE WELDED TO THE FRAME AND TABLE, REPLACING THE WOOD. THEN WE'LL MEASURE AND CUT TWO CROSS MEMBERS FROM INCH AND THREE QUARTER DOM TUBING, AND WHEN THEY'RE LEVEL TACK THEM IN PLACE. THE FRONT CROSS MEMBER GOES RIGHT ON THE WELD SEAM TO PROVIDE ADDITIONAL STRENGTH. [ welder crackling ]
(JEREMY)>> WE'LL ADD ONE MORE TEMPORARY XBRACE TO THE REAR, AND THIS MODELA IS FULLY LOCKED DOWN OT THE TABLE AND READY TO WELD IN FOR GOOD.
(NARRATOR)>> NEXT, IS THAT A FORD NINE INCH YOU'VE GOT THERE? WHY YES IT IS!
(LT)>> WELCOME BACK TO TRUCK TECH. WHETHER YOU'RE USING A TIG OR A MIG, IT'S ALWAYS A GOOD IDEA TO MOVE AROUND AND SPREAD OUT THE HEAT, RATHER THAN LETTING IT BUILD UP IN ONE SMALL AREA, WHICH COULD CAUSE DISTORTION. THERE'S NO DOUBT TIG, OR GAS TUNGSTEN ARC WELDING, IS A MUCH SLOWER PROCESS, AND REQUIRES YOU TO GET IN SOME PRETTY CREATIVE POSITIONS, BUT IF YOU'RE BUILDING A CLASS LEGAL ROLL CAGE FROM CHROMOLY, MANY SANCTIONING BODIES ACTUALLY REQUIRE THE MATERIAL TO BE TIG WELDED. OUR MODELA IS NO RACE CAR, BUT IT'S JUST GOOD PRACTICE.
IN ADDITION TO CHANGING AROUND THE WHOLE REAR OF THE FRAME, WE'RE ALSO GOING TO BE CHANGING THE STYLE OF REAR SUSPENSION THAT THE TRUCK RIDES ON. SO AS YOU GUESSED IT, WE'VE GOT MORE CUTTING TO DO.
STRIPPING AN AXLE TUBE IS ONE OF THOSE JOBS YOU NEVER LOOK FORWARD TOO BECAUSE YOU'RE IN FOR A LOT OF WORK. MY PREFERRED METHOD IS TO USE A PLASMA CUTTER TO QUICKLY SLICE OFF THE LARGER CHUNKS. IT CAN CUT THROUGH THICKER MATERIAL AND WELDS IN NO TIME FLAT. [ hammer banging metal ]
(LT)>> THEN IT'S A GRINDING PARTY. I'LL USE A COUPLE OF DIFFERENT TYPES OF DISCS AND WHEELS TO REMOVE THE OLD BRACKETS AND WELD BEADS. I'LL ROTATE THE AXLE AND KEEP ON GRINDING UNTIL IT'S ALL SMOOTHED OUT. THEN I'M GONNA CUT A FEW SUPPORTS FOR THE REAR AXLE FROM TWO BY FOUR STEEL, AND WELD ON SOME SMALL ROUND PIECES TO ONE END. THEN I CAN WELD THOSE DIRECTLY TO THE TABLE UNDERNEATH THE REAR OF THE FRAME. NOW WE CAN LIFT UP THE AXLE... HEY MAN, AT LEAST IT'S NOT A 14 BOLT RIGHT? ...AND SET IT IN PLACE IN ITS NEW HOME.
ALL RIGHT, SO WE HAVE THE AXLE IN ITS FINAL POSITION UNDERNEATH THE FRAME OF OUR TRUCK, BUT HOW DO WE FIGURE OUT EXACTLY WHERE TO PUT THESE STANDS? WELL IT WASN'T GUESS WORK. THERE'S A LOT OF MEASUREMENTS THAT WE HAVE TO CONSIDER WHEN YOU'RE PLACING A REAR AXLE, AND IF YOU GET IT WRONG THE VEHICLE WILL CRAB WALK DOWN THE ROAD. BASICALLY IT'LL GO A LITTLE BIT SIDEWAYS AND THE FRONT AND THE REAR WHEELS AREN'T GONNA FOLLOW THE SAME PATH. SO YOU ALWAYS NEED TO FIND A GOOD POINT TO PULL MEASUREMENTS FROM THAT'S EVEN TO EACH SIDE OF THE FRAME. THIS IS WHAT WE DID. THESE ARE THE LOWER HAIR PIN MOUNTS THAT WE HAVEN'T MODIFIED THAT CAME ON OUR NEW CHASSIS. SO I TOOK A HALF INCH PIECE OF ROD AND I STUCK IT THROUGH EACH OF THEM, AND I PULLED SOME MEASUREMENTS. I MADE A MARK ON THE REAR OF THE TABLE ON EACH SIDE, AND DREW A LINE RIGHT DOWN THE MIDDLE. THAT MEANS THE AXLE IS GONNA BE SQUARE TO THE FRAME. SO WHAT ALL DID WE HAVE TO CONSIDER WHEN WE WERE FIGURING OUT THE WHEEL BASE? WELL WE CHANGED QUITE A BIT ACTUALLY. WE ADDED TWO INCHES UP FRONT WHEN WE LOWERED THE FRAME. WE ALLOWED FIVE INCHES ADDITIONAL IN THE CENTER FOR THE CAB THAT WE'RE GONNA STRETCH LATER ON, AND ON TOP OF THAT WE WANTED TO MAKE SURE THAT REAR AXLE WAS CENTERED UNDERNEATH THE BED CAUSE FROM THE FACTORY THEY'RE FIVE INCHES FORWARD AND IT JUST DOESN'T LOOK RIGHT. ALL IN WE ADDED 12 INCHES TO THE WHEEL BASE ON THIS MODELA FOR A TOTAL WHEEL BASE MEASUREMENT OF 114 INCHES. SO NOW WE NEED SOME SUSPENSION PARTS.
(JEREMY)>> AND FOR THAT WE WENT TO SUMMIT RACING AND GRABBED A RIDE TECH PARALLEL FOUR LINK. NOW THIS KIT COMES WITH EVERYTHING WE NEED TO GET OUR MODELA ON THE GROUND, AND HOPEFULLY SOON CARVE SOME CORNERS. IT COMES WITH THE FOUR BARS THAT WILL ATTACH TO THE FRAME. THEN COME BACK AND MOUNT TO THE AXLE. THIS IS WHAT WILL KEEP THE AXLE FROM ROTATING SO WE DON'T GET ANY CHANGE IN THE PINION ANGLE. THEN WE HAVE THE PAN HARD BAR. ONE END WILL MOUNT TO ONE FRAME RAIL. THEN IT WILL RUN ACROSS AND MOUNT TO THE AXLE. THAT'S WHAT KEEPS OUR AXLE CENTERED. THEN THE BAR ENDS ALSO COME PRETHREADED TO ACCEPT THE ROD ENDS. THEN WE HAVE THE FRAME BRACKETS THAT WE'LL WELD ONTO THE FRAME. THEN WE HAVE THE AXLE BRACKETS WHERE THE BARS WILL BOLT IN, BUT ALSO THERE'S A PLACE TO MOUNT OUR COIL OVERS.
(NARRATOR)>> NEXT THE REAR COMES TOGETHER!
(LT)>> I'M AT LIKE SIX AND A QUARTER. HOW ABOUT YOU?
(JEREMY)>> YEP, I'M RIGHT ON.
(LT)>> WE LIKE TO USE AN ANGLE FINDER TO MAKE SURE THE REAR FACE OF THE LINK BRACKET IS PERFECTLY STRAIGHT UP AND DOWN. ONCE IT'S IN PLACE A TACK WELD HOLDS IT THERE. THEY'RE THERE. SINCE THE REAR AXLE BRACKET ALSO DOUBLES AS A SHOCK MOUNT, IT'S IMPORTANT TO GET IT RIGHT.
(JEREMY)>> NEXT THE LINKS CAN BE INSTALLED INTO THE AXLE SIDE, AND THEN THE FRAME MOUNT CAN BE CONNECTED UP FRONT. THEN WE'LL SLIDE THE BRACKET ONTO THE FRAME, AND SINCE THE AXLE IS SITTING AT RIDE HEIGHT, WE'LL ADJUST IT UNTIL THE LOWER LINK IS LEVEL. THEN WE JUST HAVE TO MATCH EVERYTHING UP ON THE OTHER SIDE. [ welder crackling ]
(LT)>> NOW WE CAN ATTACH THE PAN HARD BAR MOUNT TO THE FRAME, AND MEASURE FOR LENGTH.
(JEREMY)>> 19 AND A HALF.
(LT)>> WE HAVE TO TRIM A BIT FROM THE END. [ saw cutting metal ]
(LT)>> THEN USE A THREE QUARTER BY 16 TAP TO CUT SOME NEW THREADS.
THE ROD END CAN BE PUT IN, AND THE PAN HARD BAR IS INSTALLED ONTO THE FRAME, AND THEN THE AXLE. NOW SHOCKS CAN BE BOLTED INTO PLACE, AND THE TOP MOUNT IS ATTACHED TO THE SHOCK, AND TACKED INTO PLACE ON THE FRAME.
(JEREMY)>> CUSTOM PAINT IS ONE COOL TOUCH YOU CAN ADD TO ANY RIDE TO SET YOURSELF APART FROM THE CROWD. NOW THERE ARE SOME PAINT TECHNIQUES THAT TAKE A LITTLE BIT OF TALENT, BUT IT'S JUST LIKE ANYTHING ELSE. A LITTLE KNOW HOW AND A LOT OF PRACTICE CAN GET YOU THERE. NOW ONE ART THAT IS SLOWLY STARTING TO DIE OFF WITH THE OLDER GENERATION IS PIN STRIPPING. THESE OLD TIMERS DON'T LIKE TO GIVE UP THEIR SECRETS. SO TODAY I'M GONNA SHOW YOU ONE PIN STRIPPING TRICK THAT WILL MAKE YOUR EYES POP AT THE SHOW AND SHINE, LAYING DOWN SOME GOLD LEAF. GOLD LEAFING IS SOMETHING THAT HAS BEEN AROUND FOR HUNDREDS OF YEARS, BUT REALLY GOT BIG IN THE AUTOMOTIVE INDUSTRY BACK IN THE '50'S AND '60'S WHEN THE CUSTOM PAINT CRAZE TOOK OFF. THIS WAS A COOL WAY TO MAKE YOUR HOT ROD STAND OUT. SO HERE ARE THE TOOLS WE'LL NEED. A PIN STRIPPING BRUSH, A GLIDER BRUSH, A SMALL POLISHING BIT, A PIECE OF VELVET, A LITTLE BIT OF THINNER, GOLD LEAFING SIZE. THIS IS THE ADHESIVE THAT WILL LOCK THE GOLD DOWN, AND THEN OF COURSE THE GOLD. USING A FRESHLY CLEANED TEST PANEL, I'M LAYING DOWN A FEW PIECES OF TAPE TO GET A STRAIGHT LINE WHERE I PLAN TO LAY DOWN THE LEAF. NOW WE CAN MIX OUR GOLD LEAF SIZE. FIRST I'M POURING LESS THAN AN OUNCE INTO THE CUP, FOLLOWED BY JUST A COUPLE OF DROPS OF THINNER. THIS WILL REDUCE THE ADHESIVE DOWN TO WHERE WE CAN GET A NICE, CONSISTENT FLOW OUT OF THE BRUSH. NEXT I'M DIPPING MY BRUSH INTO THE ADHESIVE AND THOROUGHLY COATING IT. THEN USING AN OLD MAGAZINE I'M DOING WHAT'S CALLED LOADING UP THE BRUSH. ONCE YOU DO THIS A FEW TIMES YOU'LL START TO GET A FEEL FOR WHEN YOUR BRUSH IS READY. NOW LAY DOWN THE ADHESIVE IN LONG, SMOOTH STROKES.
NOW WE CAN REMOVE THE TAPE, AND THEN LET THAT SIT FOR ABOUT 30 MINUTES. ALL RIGHT, NOW COMES THE FUN PART, AND THAT'S LAYING DOWN THE GOLD LEAF. NOW THIS IS ACTUALLY 23 KARAT GOLD, AND IT IS VERY DELICATE. NOT ONLY THAT, IT'S A LITTLE BIT ON THE EXPENSIVE SIDE. SO WE WANT TO MAKE SURE WE USE THIS WISELY. FIRST LAY DOWN THE SHEET OVER THE ADHESIVE. THIS DOESN'T TAKE MUCH PRESSURE. THE ADHESIVE WILL GRAB ON AND PULL THE GOLD OFF THE SHEET. CONTINUE THIS UNTIL ALL OF THE ADHESIVE IS COVERED, AND THAT'S HOW SIMPLE IT IS TO LAY DOWN GOLD LEAF. NEXT TIME I'LL SHOW YOU HOW TO TAKE YOUR BIT AND THE VELVET AND CREATE SOME COOL DESIGNS WITHIN THE GOLD. PLUS WE'LL LAY DOWN A COUPLE OF PINSTRIPES TO FINISH IT OUT.
ANY DIESEL GUY KNOWS THAT A BETTER FREE FLOWING EXHAUST SYSTEM WILL NOT ONLY BUILD MORE POWER BUT IS KEY TO BETTER FUEL ECONOMY. THIS IS MAGNAFLOW'S DOWN PIPE BACK EXHAUST SYSTEM FOR THREE QUARTER AND ONE TON HD SILVERADOS. IT'S MADE FROM HIGH QUALITY STAINLESS STEEL FOR LONGEVITY, AND FEATURES MANDREL BENDS FOR A COMPLETE FLOW. THE FOUR INCH DIAMETER LEADS TO BETTER TURBO SPOOLING AND LOWER EXHAUST GAS TEMPERATURES. THIS IS HANDS DOWN A GREAT UPGRADE FOR YOUR DIESEL PICKUP. SO TO FIND OUT MORE ON THIS KIT OR ANY OF THEIR OTHERS CHECK OUT MAGNAFLOW DOT COM.
(LT)>> JUST LIKE AT YOUR SHOP AT HOME, WE HAVE DIRTY PARTS THAT NEED TO BE CLEANED UP, AND SCOTT HEAVY DUTY SHOP TOWELS LAST LONGER AND ABSORB MORE THAN YOUR STANDARD PAPER TOWEL. PLUS THEY'RE THREE TIMES STRONGER WHEN WET THAN THEIR ORIGINAL SHOP TOWEL. NORMALLY YOU USE A PAPER TOWEL ONCE AND THROW IT OUT SINCE IT JUST DISINTEGRATES IN YOUR HAND. YOU END UP BURNING THROUGH SO MANY YOU FEEL IT IN YOUR WALLET. YOU CAN SPRAY SCOTT HEAVY DUTY SHOP TOWELS WITH SOLVENT, WIPE DOWN YOUR PART, AND USE THEM OVER AND OVER AGAIN. GRAB YOURS AT YOUR FAVORITE AUTOMOTIVE RETAILER.
(JEREMY)>> WE ARE SO CLOSE TO GETTING OUR MODELA CHASSIS BACK DOWN ON THE GROUND AND GETTING THAT LOW STREET ROD LOOK WE'RE AFTER. WE GOT THE REAR FRAME SECTION ALL WELDED IN AND FINISHED UP. WE GOT THE NINE INCH UNDER HERE. WE'VE GOT OUR FOUR LINK FINISHED UP AND WE'VE GOT THE COIL OVERS MOUNTED.
(LT)>> AND SINCE THE CHASSIS IS DONE, THE NEXT STEP IS TO PUT A POWER PLANT IN THIS THING. NOW OURS ACTUALLY JUST SHOWED UP. I'M NOT GONNA TELL YOU WHAT IT IS, BUT YOU OLD SCHOOL ENGINE GUYS, WELL YOU CAN PROBABLY FIGURE IT OUT. SO NEXT TIME YOU SEE THE MODELA WE'LL BE PUTTING THAT ENGINE UNDER THE HOOD.
(JEREMY)>> NOW FOR MORE INFORMATION ON THIS BUILD OR ANY OF OUR OTHERS CHECK OUT POWERNATION TV DOT COM.
Show Full Transcript
(LT)>> WELCOME TO TRUCK TECH, WHERE TODAY WE'RE GOING TO BE TAKING THINGS JUST A LITTLE BIT OLD SCHOOL AND WORKING ON OUR 1930 MODELA STREET ROD.
(JEREMY)>> THIS IS A LONG TERM PROJECT WE'VE HAD HANGING OUT IN THE SHOP WITH US FOR SOME TIME NOW, BUT WE'RE ABOUT HALF WAY THROUGH MAKING THIS TRUCK SIT MUCH LOWER TO THE GROUND.
(LT)>> SO LAST TIME YOU GUYS SAW IT WE WERE UP FRONT WORKING ON THE FRAME. WE CUT IT IN HALF, AND RAISED IT EIGHT INCHES, AND STRETCHED IT TOO. THAT'S GONNA MAKE THE CAB SIT A LOT CLOSER TO THE GROUND, BUT WE HAVEN'T FINISHED THE JOB AND THAT'S OUT BACK. SO WE'LL BE DOING THAT TODAY.
(JEREMY)>> BUT THIS TIME WE'RE GONNA DO THINGS A BIT DIFFERENTLY. OUT FRONT WE WANTED TO KEEP THE ORIGINAL SUSPENSION AND STEERING GEOMETRY UNTOUCHED, BUT OUT BACK WE'RE GONNA CHANGE THINGS UP A BIT.
(LT)>> SO RIGHT NOW THE AXLE SITS RIGHT HERE ON THE TRUCK, AND THE BACK OF THE FRAME IS ONLY EIGHT INCHES BEYOND THAT. THE TROUBLE IS THE BED, IT STICKS OUT 60 INCHES BEHIND THE BACK OF THE CAB. SO WHEN WE GOT TO MOUNT THINGS LIKE A FUEL CELL, A BATTERY, OR EVEN THE BED, THERE'S NOTHING BACK HERE TO SUPPORT IT. SO IN ADDITION TO RAISING THE REAR OF THE FRAME EIGHT INCHES WE'RE ALSO GOING TO BE EXTENDING IT THE FULL 60 INCHES BEHIND THE BACK OF THE CAB.
(JEREMY)>> BUT THAT'S NOT ALL. SINCE THE CABS OF THESE TRUCKS ARE SO SHORT WE WANT TO MAKE THINGS A LITTLE MORE COMFORTABLE INSIDE. SO WE PLAN TO STRETCH OUR CAB FIVE INCHES A LITTLE LATER ON. THAT MEANS MORE MODIFICATIONS TO OUR FRAME. SO TODAY WE PLAN TO DO ALL OF THE MODIFICATIONS OUT BACK. PLUS ADD A LITTLE MATERIAL TO CENTER OF OUR FRAME TO MATCH OUR STRETCHED CAB.
(LT)>> TO MATCH THE FRONT END OF THE FRAME WE NEED TO RAISE THE REAR EIGHT INCHES, BUT THIS SURFACE RIGHT HERE IS ACTUALLY THE MOST IMPORTANT THAT WE NEED TO MEASURE FROM BECAUSE IT'S THE BUMP STOP, OR WHERE THE AXLE TRAVELS TOO AT FULL COMPRESSION. SO WE ADD EIGHT INCHES, BUT THAT'LL BE THE BOTTOM OF THE FRAME RAIL, AND WE'RE USING TWO BY FOUR SQUARE TUBE. SO THAT MEANS THE TOP IS GOING TO BE WAY UP HERE AT A FOOT.
(JEREMY)>> SO THIS GIVES YOU A GOOD IDEA WHERE THE FRAME WILL RUN ONCE WE MAKE THE TRANSITION. WE STILL HAVE PLENTY OF ROOM TO RUN THE BED AND WE WON'T HAVE ANY CLEARANCE ISSUES. SO THE NEXT THING WE NEED TO FIGURE OUT IS WHERE TO MAKE OUR CUT. WE KNOW WE NEED TO ALLOW FIVE INCHES FOR THE STRETCH OF THE CAB, AND WE NEED TO MAKE THE CUT BEFORE THE FRAME STARTS TO NARROW UP. SO THAT MEANS WE NEED TO MAKE THE CUT SOMEWHERE IN HERE.
(LT)>> WITH THE HELP OF OUR CRANE, THE CAB IS LIFTED OFF THE FRAME AND MOVED OUT OF THE WAY.
(JEREMY)>> IT'S ALL YOU.
NOW WE'LL CUT THE TACK WELDS THAT HOLD THE FRAME SUPPORTS TO THE TABLE AND HAMMER THEM LOOSE. SO WE CAN REPOSITION IT AND HAVE ROOM TO WORK OUT BACK.
(JEREMY)>> ALL RIGHT, WE'RE GONNA LEAVE THE FOUR LEGS WE HAVE IN THE CENTER BUT WE'RE GONNA REMOVE THESE SINCE WE'RE DONE WITH THE FRONT END. THEY'LL JUST BE HANGING OFF IN THE WAY.
(LT)>> ALL RIGHT, LET'S SLIDE THIS BAD BOY UP.
ALL RIGHT, CENTER IT UP, WELD HER DOWN!
(JEREMY)>> SLIDE IT YOUR WAY A LITTLE BIT.
(LT)>> SIX AND THREE QUARTERS.
(JEREMY)>> PRETTY DAMN CLOSE. [ welder crackling ]
(LT)>> ALL RIGHT, SO THE BACK OF OUR CAB USED TO BE HERE. WE'RE ADDING FIVE MORE INCHES, AND I WANT TO GET RID OF THE REST OF THE FRAME AND LEAVE ENOUGH MATERIAL TO ATTACH TO. SO WE'RE GONNA CUT IT OFF SOMEWHERE BACK THERE. [ saw cutting metal ]
(JEREMY)>> AS ALWAYS, WHEN WORKING WITH STEEL MAKE SURE YOU'RE WEARING PROPER SAFETY GEAR. CUTTING AND GRINDING WILL CREATE A LOT OF SPARKS. SO YOU WANT TO STAY SAFE. WITH THE LAST CUT MADE, WE'LL REMOVE THE OLD REAR FRAME SECTION.
(LT)>> NOW WE CAN PLAN OUT OUR NEW REAR FRAME RAILS. THE FIRST LINE WILL REPRESENT THE EXISTING PORTION OF THE FRAME. THEN I'LL MAKE ANOTHER LINE 12 INCHES UP FROM THE BOTTOM OF THE REAR. THEN ANOTHER MARK FOUR INCHES EVEN HIGHER TO SHOW THE TOP. USING A COMBINATION SQUARE, I'LL MARK A 45 DEGREE LINE FOR THE TRANSITION SECTION. A FEW MORE MARKS EXACTLY FOUR INCHES APART WILL HELP MAKE ANOTHER LINE FOR THE OTHER SIDE. I'LL ERASE THE EXTRA MARKS WITH ACETONE, AND MAKE A LINE 22.5 DEGREES, BISECTING THE 45 DEGREE ANGLE TO SHOW WHERE THE MITRE CUTS WILL BE.
(JEREMY)>> ALL RIGHT, WE'VE GOT OUR PLAN PRETTY MUCH MAPPED OUT OVER AT THE TABLE, AND WE'VE GOT OUR SAW SET UP AT AN ANGLE WE THINK WILL WORK. SO TO VERIFY WE'RE GETTING THE ANGLE WE NEED WE'RE GONNA USE A COUPLE OF PIECES OF TWO BY FOUR JUST TO PRACTICE ON SINCE WOOD'S CHEAP BEFORE WE GET ONTO OUR METAL. I'LL MAKE THE FIRST CUT FOR THE SHORT PIECE AND BRING IT BACK TO THE TABLE TO CHECK IT AGAINST OUR PATTERN, AND IT'S CLEARLY NOT RIGHT. SO I'LL MAKE A QUICK ADJUSTMENT TO THE FENCE, AND MAKE A FEW MORE CUTS. [ saw cutting metal ]
(JEREMY)>> THIS TIME EVERYTHING MATCHES UP WHERE WE WANT IT. SO WE'RE READY TO START CUTTING METAL.
(NARRATOR)>> NEXT, SQUARING UP OUR NEWLY CHOPPED UP FRAME.
(JEREMY)>> WELCOME BACK TO TRUCK TECH. WE'RE READY TO CUT THE FRAME RAILS FOR OUR CHOPPED MODELA TRUCK. I FEEL LIKE IT'S MOVING ON ME. LIKE THERE'S SOMEONE AT THE OTHER THAT'S...
(LT)>> YOU GOT IT LINED UP?
(JEREMY)>> NOT WHEN YOU KEEP MOVING IT.
(LT)>> IS IT LINED UP YET?
(JEREMY)>> WE HAVE THE ANGLE OF THE SAW DIALED IN. SO WE CAN BEGIN CUTTING OUR FRAME RAILS FROM A 20 FOOT SECTION OF TWO BY FOUR 120 WALL MILD STEEL. WE'LL START BY CUTTING THE SHORT MIDDLE SECTION WITH A SAME ANGLE MITRE ON EACH END. THEN WE'LL FLIP THE PIECE OVER AND MAKE ANOTHER ANGLE CUT IN THE OPPOSITE DIRECTION. THEN MEASURE AND MARK FOR A SQUARE CUT ON THE LONGER REAR SECTION. WE'LL HAVE TO ADJUST THE SAW BACK TO ZERO AND MAKE THE CUT.
THEN REPEAT THE SAME PROCESS FOR CUTTING THE FRAME SECTIONS FOR THE OPPOSITE SIDE OF THE TRUCK. ALL RIGHT, WE'VE GOT ALL FOUR PIECES OF METAL CUT OUT. WE KNOW EVERYTHING'S READY TO GO AND OUR MEASUREMENTS ARE CORRECT BECAUSE WE TOOK THE TIME TO CUT IT OUT OF WOOD A LITTLE BIT AGO. SO LT, HERE YOU GO MAN, ALL READY TO WELD!
(LT)>> HEY YOU GOT IT. ALL RIGHT, SO WE WENT AHEAD AND WE TOOK THE TIME TO GET THESE THINGS CLAMPED UP, AND IT MAKES ME HAPPY BECAUSE THIS SEAM DOWN THE MIDDLE OF THE TUBE LINES UP, AND THEY'RE BOTH GONNA BE ON THE INSIDE OF THE FRAME. I'M A LITTLE BIT OCD, BUT THAT'S ALL RIGHT. SO ANYWAY, WE'RE GONNA TACK THIS THING, FLIP IT, TACK THE OTHER SIDE, AND BURN IT IN FOR GOOD. SINCE WE PLAN ON COVERING THIS SEAM LATER ON WITH A REINFORCEMENT PLATE, I'M GONNA USE A TIG WELDER SO WE CAN GET EXCELLENT PENETRATION ON THE EIGHTH INCH THICK MATERIAL WITHOUT HAVING A LARGE BEAD ABOVE THE SURFACE, WHICH WE'D HAVE TO GRIND LATER ON. AFTER MAKING A COUPLE OF PASSES, OUR TWO REAR FRAME SECTIONS ARE DONE.
(JEREMY)>> OKAY, A LITTLE EARLIER WE CUT THE REAR OF OUR FRAME SECTION AWAY SO WE COULD HAVE SOME ROOM TO WORK ON OUR TABLE. NOW WE HAVE OUR MEASUREMENTS PULLED AND OUR LINES LAID DOWN ON THE FRAME WHERE WE CAN MAKE SOME PRECISE CUTS SO WE CAN GET OUR NEW FRAME RAILS PATCHED. [ saw cutting metal ]
(LT)>> SINCE THE BOTTOM OF THE STOCK FRAME GETS NARROWER HERE, WE'RE GONNA BE MAKING A SLICE ON THE LOWER EDGE ABOUT TWO INCHES IN. THEN BEND IT DOWN SO IT'LL LINE UP WITH THE BEVEL. THEN WE'LL CLEAN BOTH EDGES OF THE JOINT FOR WELDING. THAT'LL DO IT. BRING IN THE REAR SECTION, AND CLAMP IT TEMPORARILY IN PLACE WITH A TWO BY FOUR.
RINSE AND REPEAT ON THE OTHER SIDE.
ALL RIGHT, WE'VE GOT THE FRAME RAILS LEVEL AS THEY RUN FRONT TO BACK AND SIDE TO SIDE, BUT THE ONLY THING THAT WE HAVEN'T CHECKED YET IS TO SEE IF THEY'RE PARALLEL AS THEY RUN FRONT TO BACK LOOKING DOWN FROM THE TOP.
(JEREMY)>> SO THE NEXT THING WE'RE GONNA DO IS PUT A TACK RIGHT IN THE CENTER OF THE FRAME RAIL UP TOP. THIS IS GONNA HELP TO HOLD EVERYTHING IN PLACE BUT STILL ALLOW US TO HAVE ENOUGH MOVEMENT TO GET EVERYTHING SQUARED UP. [ welder crackling ]
(LT)>> ALL WE NEED NOW IS ONE MEDIUM TACK WELD.
OUT BACK WE'LL ATTACH A PLUMB BOB TO THE CENTER OF EACH FRAME RAIL. THEN WE CAN MEASURE IN AN "X" PATTERN FROM THE SAME POINT ON EACH SIDE. ALL IT TAKES IS A LITTLE ADJUSTMENT, AND WHEN EACH SIDE MEASURES THE SAME WE CAN MOVE ON.
(JEREMY)>> SOME THREE QUARTER INCH SQUARE STOCK IS USED TO MAKE SOME LEGS, WHICH CAN BE WELDED TO THE FRAME AND TABLE, REPLACING THE WOOD. THEN WE'LL MEASURE AND CUT TWO CROSS MEMBERS FROM INCH AND THREE QUARTER DOM TUBING, AND WHEN THEY'RE LEVEL TACK THEM IN PLACE. THE FRONT CROSS MEMBER GOES RIGHT ON THE WELD SEAM TO PROVIDE ADDITIONAL STRENGTH. [ welder crackling ]
(JEREMY)>> WE'LL ADD ONE MORE TEMPORARY XBRACE TO THE REAR, AND THIS MODELA IS FULLY LOCKED DOWN OT THE TABLE AND READY TO WELD IN FOR GOOD.
(NARRATOR)>> NEXT, IS THAT A FORD NINE INCH YOU'VE GOT THERE? WHY YES IT IS!
(LT)>> WELCOME BACK TO TRUCK TECH. WHETHER YOU'RE USING A TIG OR A MIG, IT'S ALWAYS A GOOD IDEA TO MOVE AROUND AND SPREAD OUT THE HEAT, RATHER THAN LETTING IT BUILD UP IN ONE SMALL AREA, WHICH COULD CAUSE DISTORTION. THERE'S NO DOUBT TIG, OR GAS TUNGSTEN ARC WELDING, IS A MUCH SLOWER PROCESS, AND REQUIRES YOU TO GET IN SOME PRETTY CREATIVE POSITIONS, BUT IF YOU'RE BUILDING A CLASS LEGAL ROLL CAGE FROM CHROMOLY, MANY SANCTIONING BODIES ACTUALLY REQUIRE THE MATERIAL TO BE TIG WELDED. OUR MODELA IS NO RACE CAR, BUT IT'S JUST GOOD PRACTICE.
IN ADDITION TO CHANGING AROUND THE WHOLE REAR OF THE FRAME, WE'RE ALSO GOING TO BE CHANGING THE STYLE OF REAR SUSPENSION THAT THE TRUCK RIDES ON. SO AS YOU GUESSED IT, WE'VE GOT MORE CUTTING TO DO.
STRIPPING AN AXLE TUBE IS ONE OF THOSE JOBS YOU NEVER LOOK FORWARD TOO BECAUSE YOU'RE IN FOR A LOT OF WORK. MY PREFERRED METHOD IS TO USE A PLASMA CUTTER TO QUICKLY SLICE OFF THE LARGER CHUNKS. IT CAN CUT THROUGH THICKER MATERIAL AND WELDS IN NO TIME FLAT. [ hammer banging metal ]
(LT)>> THEN IT'S A GRINDING PARTY. I'LL USE A COUPLE OF DIFFERENT TYPES OF DISCS AND WHEELS TO REMOVE THE OLD BRACKETS AND WELD BEADS. I'LL ROTATE THE AXLE AND KEEP ON GRINDING UNTIL IT'S ALL SMOOTHED OUT. THEN I'M GONNA CUT A FEW SUPPORTS FOR THE REAR AXLE FROM TWO BY FOUR STEEL, AND WELD ON SOME SMALL ROUND PIECES TO ONE END. THEN I CAN WELD THOSE DIRECTLY TO THE TABLE UNDERNEATH THE REAR OF THE FRAME. NOW WE CAN LIFT UP THE AXLE... HEY MAN, AT LEAST IT'S NOT A 14 BOLT RIGHT? ...AND SET IT IN PLACE IN ITS NEW HOME.
ALL RIGHT, SO WE HAVE THE AXLE IN ITS FINAL POSITION UNDERNEATH THE FRAME OF OUR TRUCK, BUT HOW DO WE FIGURE OUT EXACTLY WHERE TO PUT THESE STANDS? WELL IT WASN'T GUESS WORK. THERE'S A LOT OF MEASUREMENTS THAT WE HAVE TO CONSIDER WHEN YOU'RE PLACING A REAR AXLE, AND IF YOU GET IT WRONG THE VEHICLE WILL CRAB WALK DOWN THE ROAD. BASICALLY IT'LL GO A LITTLE BIT SIDEWAYS AND THE FRONT AND THE REAR WHEELS AREN'T GONNA FOLLOW THE SAME PATH. SO YOU ALWAYS NEED TO FIND A GOOD POINT TO PULL MEASUREMENTS FROM THAT'S EVEN TO EACH SIDE OF THE FRAME. THIS IS WHAT WE DID. THESE ARE THE LOWER HAIR PIN MOUNTS THAT WE HAVEN'T MODIFIED THAT CAME ON OUR NEW CHASSIS. SO I TOOK A HALF INCH PIECE OF ROD AND I STUCK IT THROUGH EACH OF THEM, AND I PULLED SOME MEASUREMENTS. I MADE A MARK ON THE REAR OF THE TABLE ON EACH SIDE, AND DREW A LINE RIGHT DOWN THE MIDDLE. THAT MEANS THE AXLE IS GONNA BE SQUARE TO THE FRAME. SO WHAT ALL DID WE HAVE TO CONSIDER WHEN WE WERE FIGURING OUT THE WHEEL BASE? WELL WE CHANGED QUITE A BIT ACTUALLY. WE ADDED TWO INCHES UP FRONT WHEN WE LOWERED THE FRAME. WE ALLOWED FIVE INCHES ADDITIONAL IN THE CENTER FOR THE CAB THAT WE'RE GONNA STRETCH LATER ON, AND ON TOP OF THAT WE WANTED TO MAKE SURE THAT REAR AXLE WAS CENTERED UNDERNEATH THE BED CAUSE FROM THE FACTORY THEY'RE FIVE INCHES FORWARD AND IT JUST DOESN'T LOOK RIGHT. ALL IN WE ADDED 12 INCHES TO THE WHEEL BASE ON THIS MODELA FOR A TOTAL WHEEL BASE MEASUREMENT OF 114 INCHES. SO NOW WE NEED SOME SUSPENSION PARTS.
(JEREMY)>> AND FOR THAT WE WENT TO SUMMIT RACING AND GRABBED A RIDE TECH PARALLEL FOUR LINK. NOW THIS KIT COMES WITH EVERYTHING WE NEED TO GET OUR MODELA ON THE GROUND, AND HOPEFULLY SOON CARVE SOME CORNERS. IT COMES WITH THE FOUR BARS THAT WILL ATTACH TO THE FRAME. THEN COME BACK AND MOUNT TO THE AXLE. THIS IS WHAT WILL KEEP THE AXLE FROM ROTATING SO WE DON'T GET ANY CHANGE IN THE PINION ANGLE. THEN WE HAVE THE PAN HARD BAR. ONE END WILL MOUNT TO ONE FRAME RAIL. THEN IT WILL RUN ACROSS AND MOUNT TO THE AXLE. THAT'S WHAT KEEPS OUR AXLE CENTERED. THEN THE BAR ENDS ALSO COME PRETHREADED TO ACCEPT THE ROD ENDS. THEN WE HAVE THE FRAME BRACKETS THAT WE'LL WELD ONTO THE FRAME. THEN WE HAVE THE AXLE BRACKETS WHERE THE BARS WILL BOLT IN, BUT ALSO THERE'S A PLACE TO MOUNT OUR COIL OVERS.
(NARRATOR)>> NEXT THE REAR COMES TOGETHER!
(LT)>> I'M AT LIKE SIX AND A QUARTER. HOW ABOUT YOU?
(JEREMY)>> YEP, I'M RIGHT ON.
(LT)>> WE LIKE TO USE AN ANGLE FINDER TO MAKE SURE THE REAR FACE OF THE LINK BRACKET IS PERFECTLY STRAIGHT UP AND DOWN. ONCE IT'S IN PLACE A TACK WELD HOLDS IT THERE. THEY'RE THERE. SINCE THE REAR AXLE BRACKET ALSO DOUBLES AS A SHOCK MOUNT, IT'S IMPORTANT TO GET IT RIGHT.
(JEREMY)>> NEXT THE LINKS CAN BE INSTALLED INTO THE AXLE SIDE, AND THEN THE FRAME MOUNT CAN BE CONNECTED UP FRONT. THEN WE'LL SLIDE THE BRACKET ONTO THE FRAME, AND SINCE THE AXLE IS SITTING AT RIDE HEIGHT, WE'LL ADJUST IT UNTIL THE LOWER LINK IS LEVEL. THEN WE JUST HAVE TO MATCH EVERYTHING UP ON THE OTHER SIDE. [ welder crackling ]
(LT)>> NOW WE CAN ATTACH THE PAN HARD BAR MOUNT TO THE FRAME, AND MEASURE FOR LENGTH.
(JEREMY)>> 19 AND A HALF.
(LT)>> WE HAVE TO TRIM A BIT FROM THE END. [ saw cutting metal ]
(LT)>> THEN USE A THREE QUARTER BY 16 TAP TO CUT SOME NEW THREADS.
THE ROD END CAN BE PUT IN, AND THE PAN HARD BAR IS INSTALLED ONTO THE FRAME, AND THEN THE AXLE. NOW SHOCKS CAN BE BOLTED INTO PLACE, AND THE TOP MOUNT IS ATTACHED TO THE SHOCK, AND TACKED INTO PLACE ON THE FRAME.
(JEREMY)>> CUSTOM PAINT IS ONE COOL TOUCH YOU CAN ADD TO ANY RIDE TO SET YOURSELF APART FROM THE CROWD. NOW THERE ARE SOME PAINT TECHNIQUES THAT TAKE A LITTLE BIT OF TALENT, BUT IT'S JUST LIKE ANYTHING ELSE. A LITTLE KNOW HOW AND A LOT OF PRACTICE CAN GET YOU THERE. NOW ONE ART THAT IS SLOWLY STARTING TO DIE OFF WITH THE OLDER GENERATION IS PIN STRIPPING. THESE OLD TIMERS DON'T LIKE TO GIVE UP THEIR SECRETS. SO TODAY I'M GONNA SHOW YOU ONE PIN STRIPPING TRICK THAT WILL MAKE YOUR EYES POP AT THE SHOW AND SHINE, LAYING DOWN SOME GOLD LEAF. GOLD LEAFING IS SOMETHING THAT HAS BEEN AROUND FOR HUNDREDS OF YEARS, BUT REALLY GOT BIG IN THE AUTOMOTIVE INDUSTRY BACK IN THE '50'S AND '60'S WHEN THE CUSTOM PAINT CRAZE TOOK OFF. THIS WAS A COOL WAY TO MAKE YOUR HOT ROD STAND OUT. SO HERE ARE THE TOOLS WE'LL NEED. A PIN STRIPPING BRUSH, A GLIDER BRUSH, A SMALL POLISHING BIT, A PIECE OF VELVET, A LITTLE BIT OF THINNER, GOLD LEAFING SIZE. THIS IS THE ADHESIVE THAT WILL LOCK THE GOLD DOWN, AND THEN OF COURSE THE GOLD. USING A FRESHLY CLEANED TEST PANEL, I'M LAYING DOWN A FEW PIECES OF TAPE TO GET A STRAIGHT LINE WHERE I PLAN TO LAY DOWN THE LEAF. NOW WE CAN MIX OUR GOLD LEAF SIZE. FIRST I'M POURING LESS THAN AN OUNCE INTO THE CUP, FOLLOWED BY JUST A COUPLE OF DROPS OF THINNER. THIS WILL REDUCE THE ADHESIVE DOWN TO WHERE WE CAN GET A NICE, CONSISTENT FLOW OUT OF THE BRUSH. NEXT I'M DIPPING MY BRUSH INTO THE ADHESIVE AND THOROUGHLY COATING IT. THEN USING AN OLD MAGAZINE I'M DOING WHAT'S CALLED LOADING UP THE BRUSH. ONCE YOU DO THIS A FEW TIMES YOU'LL START TO GET A FEEL FOR WHEN YOUR BRUSH IS READY. NOW LAY DOWN THE ADHESIVE IN LONG, SMOOTH STROKES.
NOW WE CAN REMOVE THE TAPE, AND THEN LET THAT SIT FOR ABOUT 30 MINUTES. ALL RIGHT, NOW COMES THE FUN PART, AND THAT'S LAYING DOWN THE GOLD LEAF. NOW THIS IS ACTUALLY 23 KARAT GOLD, AND IT IS VERY DELICATE. NOT ONLY THAT, IT'S A LITTLE BIT ON THE EXPENSIVE SIDE. SO WE WANT TO MAKE SURE WE USE THIS WISELY. FIRST LAY DOWN THE SHEET OVER THE ADHESIVE. THIS DOESN'T TAKE MUCH PRESSURE. THE ADHESIVE WILL GRAB ON AND PULL THE GOLD OFF THE SHEET. CONTINUE THIS UNTIL ALL OF THE ADHESIVE IS COVERED, AND THAT'S HOW SIMPLE IT IS TO LAY DOWN GOLD LEAF. NEXT TIME I'LL SHOW YOU HOW TO TAKE YOUR BIT AND THE VELVET AND CREATE SOME COOL DESIGNS WITHIN THE GOLD. PLUS WE'LL LAY DOWN A COUPLE OF PINSTRIPES TO FINISH IT OUT.
ANY DIESEL GUY KNOWS THAT A BETTER FREE FLOWING EXHAUST SYSTEM WILL NOT ONLY BUILD MORE POWER BUT IS KEY TO BETTER FUEL ECONOMY. THIS IS MAGNAFLOW'S DOWN PIPE BACK EXHAUST SYSTEM FOR THREE QUARTER AND ONE TON HD SILVERADOS. IT'S MADE FROM HIGH QUALITY STAINLESS STEEL FOR LONGEVITY, AND FEATURES MANDREL BENDS FOR A COMPLETE FLOW. THE FOUR INCH DIAMETER LEADS TO BETTER TURBO SPOOLING AND LOWER EXHAUST GAS TEMPERATURES. THIS IS HANDS DOWN A GREAT UPGRADE FOR YOUR DIESEL PICKUP. SO TO FIND OUT MORE ON THIS KIT OR ANY OF THEIR OTHERS CHECK OUT MAGNAFLOW DOT COM.
(LT)>> JUST LIKE AT YOUR SHOP AT HOME, WE HAVE DIRTY PARTS THAT NEED TO BE CLEANED UP, AND SCOTT HEAVY DUTY SHOP TOWELS LAST LONGER AND ABSORB MORE THAN YOUR STANDARD PAPER TOWEL. PLUS THEY'RE THREE TIMES STRONGER WHEN WET THAN THEIR ORIGINAL SHOP TOWEL. NORMALLY YOU USE A PAPER TOWEL ONCE AND THROW IT OUT SINCE IT JUST DISINTEGRATES IN YOUR HAND. YOU END UP BURNING THROUGH SO MANY YOU FEEL IT IN YOUR WALLET. YOU CAN SPRAY SCOTT HEAVY DUTY SHOP TOWELS WITH SOLVENT, WIPE DOWN YOUR PART, AND USE THEM OVER AND OVER AGAIN. GRAB YOURS AT YOUR FAVORITE AUTOMOTIVE RETAILER.
(JEREMY)>> WE ARE SO CLOSE TO GETTING OUR MODELA CHASSIS BACK DOWN ON THE GROUND AND GETTING THAT LOW STREET ROD LOOK WE'RE AFTER. WE GOT THE REAR FRAME SECTION ALL WELDED IN AND FINISHED UP. WE GOT THE NINE INCH UNDER HERE. WE'VE GOT OUR FOUR LINK FINISHED UP AND WE'VE GOT THE COIL OVERS MOUNTED.
(LT)>> AND SINCE THE CHASSIS IS DONE, THE NEXT STEP IS TO PUT A POWER PLANT IN THIS THING. NOW OURS ACTUALLY JUST SHOWED UP. I'M NOT GONNA TELL YOU WHAT IT IS, BUT YOU OLD SCHOOL ENGINE GUYS, WELL YOU CAN PROBABLY FIGURE IT OUT. SO NEXT TIME YOU SEE THE MODELA WE'LL BE PUTTING THAT ENGINE UNDER THE HOOD.
(JEREMY)>> NOW FOR MORE INFORMATION ON THIS BUILD OR ANY OF OUR OTHERS CHECK OUT POWERNATION TV DOT COM.
