Improving Power on the 351 Windsor

(NARRATOR)>> REBUILDING THE TOP END OF YOUR SMALL BLOCK IS EASIER THAN YOU THINK. THIS WEEK ON TRUCK TECH, DEGREEING A CAM SHAFT, LASHING VALVES, AND MORE. THAT'S ALL RIGHT NOW ON TRUCK TECH.

(LT)>> YEAH, SHE'S ALL CLEANED UP, READY TO GO BACK TOGETHER.

(JEREMY)>> SHE'S LOOKING GOOD MAN. HEY GUYS, WELCOME TO TRUCK TECH WHERE TODAY OUR 351 BOTTOM END WILL BE GETTING SOME NEW TOP END PARTS AND HOPEFULLY WE CAN DOUBLE OUR ENGINE'S HORSEPOWER.

(LT)>> IF WE WIND UP WITH 400 HORSE AT THE CRANK OUT OF THIS WINDSOR OUR F-100 WILL BE TRANSFORMED.

(JEREMY)>> YOU KNOW MAN, I DON'T KNOW IF WE'LL GET 400 HORSEPOWER OUT OF ANY FORD ENGINE.

(LT)>> I MEAN YOU'RE RIGHT. THAT MAY BE A BIT OPTIMISTIC BUT I'VE GOT A COUPLE OF EXTRA LS' IN THE CORNER. WE COULD ALWAYS SWAP ONE OF THOSE IN.

(JEREMY)>> HEY MAN, THAT'S A GREAT IDEA. BEFORE YOU GUYS GO ANYWHERE, WE'RE JUST JOKING WITH YOU. WE LOVE FORD JUST AS MUCH AS THE NEXT GUY, BUT THERE'S ALWAYS BEEN THAT FORDCHEVY DEBATE. SO WE JUST THOUGHT WE'D THROW THAT IN THERE AND MESS WITH YOU A LITTLE BIT.

(LT)>> THIS IS OUR '74 F-100 THAT WE PICKED UP FOR $12,000 BUCKS. NOW IT'S BEEN A LITTLE WHILE SINCE WE'VE BUILT A CLASSIC FORD, AND THESE TRUCKS ARE BECOMING VERY POPULAR RIGHT NOW. SO WE FIGURED IT'S TIME TO BUILD ONE.

(JEREMY)>> NOW THIS TRUCK DID GO THROUGH AN ORIGINAL RESTORATION BUT WE TOOK IT OUT TO THE TRACK JUST TO SEE HOW SHE HANDLED ANYWAY.

AND WHAT WE FOUND WAS A SERIOUS NEED FOR STIFFER SUSPENSION, BETTER BRAKING CAPABILITIES, AND A LOT MORE SPUNK.

(LT)>> WE LOWERED IT THREE INCHES IN THE FRONT AND FOUR IN THE BACK, INSTALLED SOME SWAY BARS, AND THREW IN SOME 3.89 GEARS AND A TRUE TRACK. TOGETHER THOSE THREE THINGS HAVE OUR FORD WELL ON ITS WAY, BUT STILL LACKING IN THE POWER DEPARTMENT.

(JEREMY)>> THE ENGINE WAS STOCK OTHER THAN A SMALL CAM AND AN ALUMINUM INTAKE, AND THE TRUCK MADE 146 HORSEPOWER ON THE CHASSIS DYNO. SINCE THEN WE'VE TORN THE ENGINE DOWN. WE'VE REMOVED THE INTAKE, THE STOCK CYLINDER HEADS, AND THE CAM. WE'VE GOT EVERYTHING CLEANED UP AND THIS ENGINE'S READY FOR A FEW NEW PARTS.

(LT)>> LAST TIME WE GAVE YOU GUYS AN OVERVIEW OF SOME OF THE PARTS WE'LL BE USING TO PUT OUR WINDSOR BACK TOGETHER. NOW YOU GET THE DETAILS. THE MAJORITY OF AN ENGINE'S POWER IS MADE UP IN AIR FLOW OF THE CYLINDER HEAD. SO WE KNEW THAT IF WE WANTED TO STEP IT UP WE'D HAVE TO DITCH THOSE OLD CAST IRON HEADS. THESE ARE EDELBROCK PERFORMER RPM CYLINDER HEADS. THEY HAVE A 190cc INTAKE RUNNER, A 60cc CHAMBER THAT'S FILLED WITH A 202 INTAKE AND A ONE-600 EXHAUST VALVE. PLUS THEY HAVE A 60cc EXHAUST RUNNER. WHEN WE BOLT THESE ONTO OUR SHORT BLOCK WE'LL HAVE A CALCULATED COMPRESSION RATIO OF 9.33 TO ONE. WE PICKED UP A CAM SHAFT THAT HAS 224 DEGREES DURATION ON THE INTAKE AND 234 DEGREES DURATION ON THE EXHAUST VALVE AT 50 THOUSANDTHS LIFT, AND WHEN WE COMBINE THIS WITH A ONESIX ROCKER WE'LL HAVE JUST ABOUT 500 THOUSANDTHS OF LIFT AT THE VALVE. WE PICKED UP A SET OF 16 LIFTERS, A DOUBLE ROW TIMING CHAIN, AND AN RPM AIR GAP INTAKE. ALL THESE PARTS TOGETHER MAKE UP AN EDELBROCK TOP END KIT THAT WE GRABBED FROM SUMMIT RACING, AND HAS PUBLISHED POWER FIGURES OF 400 HORSE AND 412 POUNDS OF TORQUE. PLUS IT'LL HAVE A REALLY NICE, BROAD TORQUE CURVE THAT MAKES THE TRUCK FUN TO DRIVE. OUR INSTALLATION STARTS WITH THE CAM SHAFT. INITIAL LUBRICATION IS VERY IMPORTANT ON A FLAT TAPPET CAM. WE'RE USING SIMPLE ASSEMBLY LUBE ON THE BEARING JOURNALS, BUT THE MOST IMPORTANT THING IS TO USE THE PROVIDED HIGH PRESSURE LUBE ON THE LOBES. THIS WILL ENSURE THAT THEY'RE WELL LUBRICATED FOR THE INITIAL START UP AND BREAK IN PROCEDURE. NEXT UP THE CAM RETAINER BOLTS ONTO THE BLOCK, AND GETS TORQUED TO SPEC. THEN, WITH A LITTLE HEAT, THE LOWER CAM SPROCKET GOES ONTO THE CRANK IN THE STRAIGHT UP POSITION.

THEN THE TIMING CHAIN, UPPER SPROCKET, AND FUEL PUMP ECCENTRIC ALL GO ONTO THE CAM AND GET TORQUED.

(NARRATOR)>> NEXT PAT POPS IN TO GIVE US THE THIRD DEGREE.

(LT)>> ONE OF THE MOST IMPORTANT STEPS THAT PEOPLE OFTEN SKIP OVER WHEN ASSEMBLING AN ENGINE IS DEGREEING THE CAM SHAFT, ESPECIALLY WHEN IT'S IN A VEHICLE SINCE IT CAN BE KIND OF A PAIN TO GET TO EVERYTHING. SO TO HELP US OUT I GRABBED PAT FROM ENGINE POWER, SINCE HE'S DONE THIS ABOUT A MILLION TIMES.

(PAT)>> NOW I WOULDN'T BE ABLE TO SLEEP AT NIGHT IF I DIDN'T KNOW WHERE THE INTAKE CENTER LINE IS ON A CAM OF ANYTHING I'VE TOUCHED. SO WE'RE GONNA GO THROUGH A FEW STEPS, BUT FIRST WE'RE GONNA SET TRUE TDC. THE FIRST OPERATION IS TO FIND TRUE TDC, WHICH TAKES INTO ACCOUNT THE DWELL OF THE PISTON UP THERE, AND YOU CAN'T HAVE THAT FOR DEGREEING. IT HAS TO BE AT TRUE TDC. SO WE PUT A PISTON STOP IN AND INSTALLED OUR DEGREE WHEEL. WE TURN THE ENGINE OVER UNTIL GENTLY IMPACTS THE STOP AND TAKE A READING.

THEN WE TURN THE ENGINE THE OPPOSITE UNTIL IT IMPACTS IN AGAIN AND TAKE ANOTHER READING. WE AVERAGE BETWEEN THE TWO AND ADJUST THE WIRE TO READ THE SAME, WHETHER THE ENGINE STOPS ON EITHER SIDE OF WHERE IT TOUCHES THE PISTON. THAT IS TRUE TDC. 34 AND A HALF! THEN WE INSTALL THE TOOL THAT MEASURES THE LOBE LIFT ON THE CAM, AND IT GOES IN ON THE INTAKE LOBE. WE TURN THE ENGINE OVER UNTIL WE REACH PEAK LIFT ON THE INTAKE LOBE. AFTER WE FIND THE PEAK LIFT ON THE INTAKE LOBE WE'LL BACK IT OFF AND BRING IT BACK TO 50 THOUSANDTHS BEFORE PEAK LIFT AND TAKE A READING ON THE WHEEL. IN THIS CASE 63 DEGREES. WE KEEP TURNING, GOING PAST PEAK LIFT, AND STOP AT 50 THOUSANDTHS AFTER PEAK LIFT AND TAKE ANOTHER READING, WHICH IS 150 ON THE WHEEL. WE ADD THE TWO TOGETHER, DIVIDE BY TWO, AND THAT IS THE CAM'S INTAKE CENTER LINE, WHICH IS 106.5 DEGREES. NOW THAT'S A GOOD PLACE TO HAVE IT FOR THIS PARTICULAR APPLICATION, THREE AND A HALF DEGREES ADVANCED, BUT THAT'S NOT THE CASE FOR OTHER APPLICATIONS.

(LT)>> YEAH, THE CAM CARD REALLY HAS NOTHING TO DO WITH WHERE YOU ACTUALLY SHOULD INSTALL THE CAM. DEPENDING ON YOUR ENGINE BUILD, YOU MAY ADVANCE IT OR RETARD IT. NOW TYPICALLY THE MORE YOU ADVANCE A CAM THE MORE IT'S GONNA FAVOR LOW RPM TORQUE, AND THE MORE YOUR RETARD THE CAM IT'S GONNA FAVOR HIGH RPM POWER.

(PAT)>> YOU'RE STARTING TO SOUND A LOT LIKE AN ENGINE GUY. I LIKE THAT!

(LT)>> WE'LL GET THERE. NOW WE CAN GET BACK TO REASSEMBLY. LAST NIGHT WE SOAKED THE NEW LIFTERS IN SOME OIL TO PRELUBE THEM, AND WITH THE CAM WHERE WE WANT IT, THEY CAN GO INTO THE LIFTER BORES.

WE'LL APPLY SOME RTV ONTO THE BACK OF THE TIMING COVER.

THEN SLIDE ON THE GASKET AND BOLT ON THE TIMING COVER TO THE ENGINE.

THEN THE HARMONIC BALANCER CAN BE INSTALLED WITH A SPECIAL TOOL. RESIST THE URGE TO SMACK IT ON WITH A HAMMER. ONCE IT'S FULLY SEATED...

...INSTALL THE BALANCER BOLT AND TORQUE TO SPEC. AND NOW THE FUEL PUMP CAN GO BACK ON. ALL RIGHT MAN, I'VE GOT THE FRONT OF THE ENGINE MORE OR LESS BUTTONED UP. SO I GUESS YOU'RE UP.

(JEREMY)>> COOL, ALL RIGHT, WELL THE NEXT THING FOR US IS TO GET OUR ALUMINUM HEADS ON, AND WE'RE GONNA GET STARTED WITH A HEAD GASKET.

ALL RIGHT, WITH OUR ARP FASTENERS YOU WANT TO PAY CLOSE ATTENTION TO THE WASHERS BECAUSE THERE'S ACTUALLY TWO DIFFERENT SIDES. ON ONE SIDE IS COMPLETELY FLAT, AND THAT'S WHAT GOES DOWN AGAINST THE HEAD, BUT AS YOU CAN SEE ON THE OTHER SIDE, IT HAS A SMALL BEVEL. THAT'S WHAT GOES DOWN AGAINST THE BOLT HEAD BECAUSE THE BOTTOM OF THE BOLT HEAD ACTUALLY HAS A SMALL RADIUS THAT MEETS WITH THAT BEVEL. NOW IF YOUR WERE TO INSTALL THAT WASHER BACKWARDS THERE'S A GOOD CHANCE YOU COULD DAMAGE THE BOLT, BUT BEFORE WE CAN GET ALL THESE WASHERS ON GET A LITTLE BIT OF OUR ULTRA TORQUE ASSEMBLY LUBE APPLIED SO THESE THREADS DON'T GALL UP ON US AS WE SEND THEM DOWN THROUGH THE BLOCK.

I'LL START BY ZIPPING DOWN THE BOLTS WITH AN IMPACT, BUT I'M NOT TIGHTENING THEM. THIS IS JUST TO SPEED UP THE PROCESS. THE BOLTS GET TORQUED IN EDELBROCK'S RECOMMENDED SEQUENCE. STARTING AT THE CENTER OF THE HEAD AND GOING IN A CIRCULAR PATTERN UNTIL I REACH THE END. I'M DOING THREE DIFFERENT PASSES, STARTING AT 30 FOOT POUNDS, AND THEN A FINAL PASS OF 100.

(LT)>> I KNOW THAT'S NOT A SANDING BLOCK. DID YOU NEED ME TO DOUBLE CHECK THE TORQUE ON THAT FOR YOU?

(JEREMY)>> DO YOU THINK YOU CAN EVEN FIT IN HERE?

(LT)>> I'LL BET I COULD. I'VE GOT ROOM RIGHT NEXT TO YOU.

(JEREMY)>> I DON'T THINK YOU CAN FIT IN HERE. I THINK THAT'S THE ONLY REASON I GOT THIS JOB.

(NARRATOR)>> UP NEXT, SLICK NEW SPEED PARTS COMPLETE THE TOP END.

(JEREMY)>> WE'RE WELL ON OUR WAY TO ADDING SOME MORE POWER TO OUR 351 WINDSOR IN OUR '74 F-100. WE'VE GOT THE HEADS ON. THEY'RE TORQUED DOWN. SO NEXT UP ARE THE PUSH RODS. NOW MAKING SURE TO LUBE EACH END OF THE ROD WITH EXTREME PRESSURE LUBRICANT. WE WANT TO MAKE SURE THAT ANY NEW PART THAT WE'RE INSTALLING IN OUR ENGINE WHERE THERE'S METAL TO METAL CONTACT GETS VERY WELL LUBRICATED. THAT'LL HELP PREVENT ANY FRICTION WEAR ON THAT FIRST START UP.

(LT)>> I'M GONNA BE TOPPING OFF OUR NEW HEADS WITH THESE SUMMIT RACING ONE POINT SIX ROCKERS. THESE ARE ACTUALLY A DUAL ROLLER DESIGN. WHAT THAT MEANS IS THE PIVOT ON THE BODY AS WELL AS THE TIP THAT RIDES ON THE VALVE HAVE ROLLER BEARINGS. THE FACTORY STYLE JUST SLIDES BACK AND FORTH ON THE TIP OF THE VALVE AND ON THE PIVOT. THERE IS A LOT OF FRICTION IN THIS DESIGN. SO YOU'RE ACTUALLY GONNA GAIN SOME POWER JUST BY SWITCHING TO A TRUE ROLLER, JUST BY MINIMIZING FRICTION. ALSO THESE ARE MADE FROM LIGHTWEIGHT ALUMINUM, WHICH MEANS THEY'RE MORE STABLE AT HIGHER RPM.

THE ROCKERS DROP RIGHT INTO PLACE ON THE STUDS. JUST MAKE SURE THE CENTER PIVOT IS RIGHT SIDE UP. I'LL LUBE UP THE THREADS OF THE STUD WITH A LITTLE ASSEMBLY LUBE, AND THE LOCK NUTS EASILY SPIN INTO PLACE. NEXT WE HAVE TO LASH THE VALVES. I'LL START WITH THE NUMBER ONE CYLINDER AND BOTH CAM LOBES ON BASE CIRCLE. THEN I'LL SLOWLY TIGHTEN THE NUT UNTIL I FEEL ALL PLAY IS REMOVED BETWEEN THE PUSH ROD, LIFTER, AND ROCKER. THIS IS CALLED ZERO LASH. THEN I'LL TIGHTEN THE NUT AN ADDITIONAL HALF TURN AND LOCK IT IN PLACE.

THEN I'LL CRANK THE ENGINE UNTIL THE NEXT CYLINDER IS ON BASE CIRCLE. LASH THAT PAIR OF VALVES, AND COMPLETE THE SAME PROCESS FOR THE REST OF THE ENGINE.

(JEREMY)>> NEXT UP IS THE INTAKE. WE'LL START WITH A BIT OF SILICONE AROUND THE WATER PORTS. THEN LAY ON THE SUPPLIED GASKETS. A SILICONE BEAD IS APPLIED ONTO THE RAILS ON THE FRONT AND THE REAR OF THE BLOCK. THEN THE RPM AIR GAP CAN BE CAREFULLY LAID INTO PLACE, AS TO NOT DISTURB THE GASKETS. THEN THE BOLTS CAN BE INSTALLED AND TORQUED TO SPEC. I USUALLY LIKE TO DO A SECOND PASS JUST MAKE SURE THEY'RE ALL EVENLY TORQUED. ALL RIGHT, NEXT TO GO ON THE ENGINE ARE OUR NEW CAST ALUMINUM VALVE COVERS WE PICKED UP FROM SUMMIT RACING. NOW WE CHOSE THE TALL VERSION TO MAKE SURE WE CLEAR OUR NEW ROCKERS, AND WE WENT WITH THE BLACK WITH THE RED ACCENTS BECAUSE THAT MATCHES THE THEME OF THE TRUCK, BUT YOU CAN ALSO GET THESE IN POLISHED. THEN TO GO ON TOP OF THE ENGINE IS OUR NEW HOLLEY BRAWLER 750 CARBURETOR. NOW THIS FEATURES A HIGH FLOWING ALUMINUM BODY, BILLET ALUMINUM METERING BLOCKS, AND MECHANICAL SECONDARIES. NOW THIS CARBURETOR COMES IN A STREET AND RACE VERSION. SO WE WENT WITH THE RACE VERSION. NOW THIS CARBURETOR COMES IN EVERYTHING FROM A 650 CFM ALL THE WAY UP TO 950, BUT THE 750 SHOULD WORK PERFECT FOR US. AND SEEING THAT WE'RE ON A BUDGET, THIS CARBURETOR IS AWESOME BECAUSE IT COMES IN AT UNDER $500 BUCKS. THEN TO TOP OFF OUR ENGINE OUR NEW MATCHING AIR CLEANER.

(NARRATOR)>> NEXT, GOODIES TO FIRE UP OUR SMALL BLOCK.

(LT)>> WE'VE GOT OUR ENGINE ALL BUTTONED UP AND ALL THE PARTS ARE IN PLACE TO MAKE ABOUT 400 HORSE AT THE CRANK OUT OF OUR 351. BASICALLY IT'S A STOCK BOTTOM END WITH DIFFERENT HEADS, CAM, INTAKE, AND CARBURETOR. NOW WE NEED AN IGNITION SYSTEM THAT'LL KEEP UP. OUR TRUCK ORIGINALLY CAME EQUIPPED WITH A POINTS STYLE DISTRIBUTOR AND JUST A PLAIN OLD FASHIONED COIL. NOW THAT WORKED FIN FOR THE STOCK 146 HORSEPOWER, BUT TO KEEP UP WITH THE INCREASED CYLINDER PRESSURE WE NEED MORE SPARK ENERGY TO LIGHT OFF THAT AIR/FUEL MIXTURE. THE BRAINS OF OUR IGNITION SYSTEM WILL BE THIS, A DIGITAL HP IGNITION BOX THAT WE GOT FROM PERTRONIX. NOW IT MAY BE SMALL BUT IT IS JAM PACKED WITH FEATURES. MOST IMPORTANTLY IT'LL PRODUCE MULTIPLE SPARKS THROUGHOUT THE ENTIRE OPERATING RANGE OF THE ENGINE, EVEN UP TO RED LINE. IT HAS A DIGITAL THREE STEP REV LIMITER, AND THIS THING WILL CONTROL AN RPM OUTPUT FOR A SHIFT LIGHT OR A NITROUS SOLENOID. ALSO WE'RE GONNA BE INSTALLING A FLAME THROWER COIL. THIS THING PUTS OUT 45,000 VOLTS, WILL GIVE YOU MORE SPARK ENERGY TO YOU PLUGS, LEADING TO BETTER COMBUSTION, AND WE'LL BE COMPLIMENTING THAT WITH A DROP IN FLAME THROWER DISTRIBUTOR. THIS HAS BEEN DESIGNED TO BE PLUG AND PLAY WITH THE DIGITAL HP IGNITION SYSTEM, AND WE'LL BE TOPPING IT ALL OFF WITH SOME SPARK PLUGS WITH THE CERAMIC COATED BOOTS FOR HEAT PROTECTION. I'LL GET STARTED BY INSTALLING THE DISTRIBUTOR. THE EASIEST WAY I KNOW TO FIND TDC ON COMPRESSION IS TO PUT YOUR THUMB ON THE SPARK PLUG HOLE AND CRANK THE ENGINE UNTIL YOU FEEL PRESSURE BUILDING UP. STOP ONE YOU HIT YOUR TIMING MARK. WE'LL START BY POINTING THE ROTOR TOWARDS THE REAR OF THE ENGINE AND DROP IT INTO PLACE. ONCE IT'S ALMOST ALL THE WAY DOWN I LIKE TO TURN THE CRANK JUST A LITTLE BIT AND IT DROPS RIGHT INTO PLACE. LINE UP THE NOTCH ON THE DISTRIBUTOR CAP...

...AND THIS IS GOING TO BE THE NUMBER ONE CYLINDER.

(JEREMY)>> A PAINT JOB ON YOUR CUSTOM TRUCK IS ONE OF THE BIGGEST INVESTMENTS YOU CAN MAKE. SO YOU WANT TO MAKE SURE YOU PROTECT IT PROPERLY, BUT ON YOUR DAILY DRIVER PAINT MAY NOT MEAN QUITE AS MUCH. TODAY I'LL SHOW YOU A WAY TO KEEP THAT FINISH LOOKING AS GOOD AS NEW ON THAT OLDER RIDE WITHOUT HAVING TO UNLOAD YOUR WALLET ON A NEW PAINT JOB. THIS IS A 2008 DURAMAX POWERED CREW CAB SILVERADO. IT'S LED A LONG, HARD LIFE AS A WORK TRUCK BUT THE OWNER PLANS TO TRANSFORM IT INTO A FUN STREET TRUCK. THIS IS TYPICALLY WHAT YOU'D FIND ON A USED CAR LOT, BUT I'D BET A BUCK TO A NICKEL THAT SCRATCHES THIS BAD ON A BED SIDE WOULD TURN MOST OF YOU AWAY. THEY PRETTY MUCH RUN THE WHOLE LENGTH OF THE TRUCK, AND YOU CAN CERTAINLY TELL THIS PAINT'S HAD SOME WEAR. NOW THE FIRST THING WE WANT TO CHECK FOR IS HOW DEEP THE SCRATCHES ARE. THE RULE OF THUMB FOR ME IS IF MY FINGER NAIL CATCHES ANY OF THESE SCRATCHES THEY'RE PROBABLY TOO DEEP TO GET OUT. JUST LIKE THIS HOOD WE HAVE LAYING AROUND THE SHOP, YOU WILL HEAR THAT MY FINGERNAIL CATCHES THIS SCRATCH, WHICH MEANS THIS ONE'S TOO DEEP TO GET OUT.

OVER ON THE DURAMAX I CAN'T FEEL AN INDENTATIONS. SO I THINK WITH A LITTLE BUFFING WE CAN MAKE THESE SCRATCHES DISAPPEAR. NOW THERE ARE A FEW DIFFERENT OPTIONS YOU CAN USE FOR THIS. WE HAVE THE TRADITIONAL ROTARY STYLE BUFFER. WE HAVE AN ORBITAL BUFFER THAT'S GREAT FOR PAINT CORRECTION LIKE WE'RE DOING TODAY, AND HEY, IN A PINCH YOU CAN EVEN USE A DA. THE ONLY OTHER THING WE'LL BE NEEDING IS A RUBBING COMPOUND. NOW THIS IS THE FIRST BUFFER WE'RE GOING TO USE. FIRST APPLY A FEW DROPS OF CUTTING COMPOUND ONTO THE WHITE PAD AND SLOWLY WORK IT INTO THE PAINT. THEN TURN THE RPM UP ON THE BUFFER AND WORK ABOUT A ONE FOOT SECTION AT A TIME. AFTER JUST A MINUTE WE CAN SEE WHAT WE HAVE. ALL RIGHT, YOU CAN SEE IT GOT A LOT OF THE IMPERFECTIONS OUT. NOW IF WE WERE TO CONTINUE THIS METHOD IT WOULDN'T TAKE TOO LONG AND WE'D HAVE THE PANEL BACK LIKE NEW. NOW WHAT I LIKE ABOUT THIS ORBITAL BUFFER IS IT'S VERY USER FRIENDLY. IT'S HARD TO DAMAGE PAINT WITH THIS. SO THIS ONE IS GREAT FOR THE BEGINNER. NEXT UP IS THE ROTARY BUFFER. NOW THE SAME APPLIES HERE. USING A WHITE FOAM PAD, APPLY A FEW DROPS OF COMPOUND AND SLOWLY WORK IT IN. THEN TURN UP THE RPM TO ABOUT 1,800. ALSO WORKING ABOUT A ONE TO TWO FOOT SECTION AT A TIME. HERE'S A BEFORE SHOT AND HERE'S AN AFTER. THIS JUST PROVES WITH THE RIGHT TOOLS YOU CAN BRING YOUR PAINT BACK TO LIFE, BUT REMEMBER, A ROTARY BUFFER DOES CREATE A LOT OF HEAT. SO BE CAREFUL NOT TO DAMAGE YOUR PAINT.

(LT)>> IF YOU HAVE A '47 TO '87 CHEVY OR GMC BROTHERS TRUCKS OFFERS MANY OPTIONS TO REPAIR, RESTORE, OR REPLACE YOUR WORN OUT INTERIOR. THESE OEM STYLE DASHES ARE MADE WITH HIGH QUALITY VINYL OVER FOAM. PLUS THEY'RE MADE ON A STEEL INSERT. SO THEY FIT JUST LIKE THE ORIGINAL. THE DOOR PANELS CAN FIT WITH FACTORY STYLE TRIM, ARM REST, OR EVEN THE MAP POCKET. YOU CAN GET ALL THESE IN A RANGE OF DIFFERENT COLORS OR PAINT THEM TO MATCH. VISIT BROTHERS TRUCKS DOT COM FOR MORE.

(JEREMY)>> NEW FROM MATCO TOOLS IS THIS FOUR PIECE SAE WRENCH SET THAT ALLOWS YOU TO GET IN SUPER TIGHT QUARTERS. IT'S MADE FROM HARDENED ALLOY FOR EXTRA STRENGTH, AND IT COMES WITH ITS OWN HOLDER. NOW THIS 17 INCH SWEDISH "S" SHAPED PIPE WRENCH IS A VAST IMPROVEMENT OVER TRADITIONAL LOCKING PLIERS. YOU JUST GRAB ON TO YOUR PIECE, PUSH THE BUTTON TO ADJUST THE WIDTH, AND THE PLIERS LOCK INTO PLACE WITH NO SLIPPAGE. NOW BOTH OF THESE ARE AVAILABLE FROM YOUR LOCAL MATCO TOOLS DISTRIBUTOR OR BY VISITING MATCO TOOLS DOT COM.

(LT)>> I WENT AHEAD AND MOUNTED THE COIL ON THE FIREWALL, AND THE IGNITION BOX ON THE FENDER WELL AWAY FROM ANY SOURCES OF HEAT. NOW THERE ARE A FEW SMALL THINGS LEFT TO BUTTON UP UNDERNEATH THE HOOD, BUT OUR STAGE ONE BUILD IS DONE.

(JEREMY)>> AND WITH A TOTAL BUDGET OF $7,000 DOLLARS WE WANTED TO TRANSFORM HOW THIS TRUCK DRIVES. IT SITS LOWER TO THE GROUND, HAS LESS BODY ROLL, AND WITH NEW GEARS IT WILL DEFINITELY IMPROVE ACCELERATION. SO FAR WE'VE SPENT $2,400 BUCKS BUT I KNOW SOME OF THESE PARTS UNDER HERE LOOK A LITTLE BIT EXPENSIVE. SO WHERE DO WE STAND?

(LT)>> WELL YOU'VE GOT THAT RIGHT BUT THAT WAS KIND OF THE POINT. WE WANTED TO SPEND OUR MONEY WHERE IT COUNTS, MAKING THIS TRUCK QUICKER. TODAY WE SPENT $4,090 DOLLARS UNDERNEATH THE HOOD. $2,400 OF THAT WAS THE TOP END KIT, AND THE REST WAS ROCKERS, IGNITION STUFF, AND A FEW BELTS AND HOSES UP FRONT, BUT WE ARE $500 DOLLARS UNDER BUDGET.

(JEREMY)>> WELL NOT REALLY. I MAY HAVE SPENT THAT $500 BUCKS. WE DEFINITELY NEEDED A NEW SET OF TIRES BECAUSE THOSE ARE DRY ROTTED. SO I WENT OVER TO SUMMIT RACING AND GRABBED THESE, AND WE'LL THROW THOSE ON BEFORE WE HEAD BACK OUT TO THE TRACK.

(LT)>> WELL FOR MORE INFORMATION ON THIS F-100 OR ANY OTHER BUILD WE DO ON TRUCK TECH BE SURE TO VISIT POWERNATION TV DOT COM.