Lime Dime: Pro Street Prep

(ANNOUNCER)>> TODAY RYAN'S TEAMING UP WITH THE GUYS FROM ENGINE POWER TO KICK OFF A NEW PROJECT.

WE'RE PULLING THE DRIVETRAIN OUT OF A '97 S-10, ADDING A ROLL CAGE, AND UPGRADING THE BRAKES. GETTING THIS TRUCK READY FOR ENGINE POWER TO STUFF IN A NITROUS FED BIG BLOCK. IT'S ALL TODAY HERE ON TRUCK TECH.

(RYAN)>> HEY GUYS, WELCOME TO TRUCK TECH. TODAY WE'RE KICKING OFF A BRAND NEW PROJECT THAT WE'RE WORKING WITH THE GUYS FROM ENGINE POWER ON. THIS IS A '97 CHEVY S-10 THAT THE PREVIOUS OWNER HAS ALREADY MODIFIED. BUT THE DIRECTION HE WAS TAKING WAS A GOOD LOOKING

CLEAN STREET TRUCK. THE ROUTE WE'RE GOING, SPEED IS THE MAIN OBJECTIVE. SO IT'S GONNA END UP WITH A NITROUS FED 427 BIG BLOCK UNDER THE HOOD. SO THE PLAN FOR TODAY, JUST TO STRIP THE TRUCK

DOWN, PULL THE DRIVETRAIN, AND MAKE IT A ROLLER SO THE GUYS FROM ENGINE POWER CAN TAKE IT TO THE NEXT LEVEL. NOW ONE OF THE REASONS THEY CHOSE THIS TRUCK. WELL IT'S GOT A FEW GOOD MODIFICATIONS AND A GOOD,

CLEAN STRAIGHT BODY, AND AN ATTENTION GETTING LIME GREEN PAINT JOB. SO FOR A PROJECT NAME, WELL IT'S A NO BRAINER,

WE'RE CALLING IT THE LIME DIME. LET'S GET STARTED. NOW BEFORE WE GOT STARTED WITH THE PROJECT, MIKE TOOK THE OPPORTUNITY TO ABUSE THE RIGHT REAR TIRE A LITTLE BIT JUST FOR FUN AND TO HAVE SOME BEFORE FOOTAGE TO COMPARE TO WHEN THEY'RE DONE.

(MIKE)>> MAN THAT'S A NICE LITTLE DEAL.

(RYAN)>> OH, IT'S ALREADY GOT DUAL EXHAUST. SHOOT, YOU GUYS ARE OFF TO A GREAT START.

(MIKE)>> TAKE A BALL PEEN, I WONDER HOW MUCH LONGER THAT'S GOT.

(RYAN)>> YOU GUYS ARE KEEPING THE STOCK AXLE RIGHT?

(MIKE)>> IT'S GONE, FUEL TANK'S GONE, CHARCOAL CANISTER, REAR END, EXHAUST, DRIVESHAFT, EVERYTHING.

(RYAN)>> NOW IN ADDITION TO GETTING RID OF A FEW OF THE PARTS THAT HAD TO GO, THERE WERE ALSO A COUPLE OF CREATURE COMFORTS WE WERE A LITTLE RELUCTANT TO GET RID OF.

NO AIR CONDITIONING!

(PAT)>> THAT ACTUALLY MAKES ME SAD.

(RYAN)>> 270 AIR!

(PAT)>> THAT'S RIGHT!

(RYAN)>> I LIKE THIS TOUCH HERE. THE GUY EVEN GOES AS FAR AS TO USE LIME GREEN ZIP TIES.

(PAT)>> ATTENTION TO DETAIL WAS THE ORDER OF BUSINESS.

(RYAN)>> THAT'S RIGHT, THAT'S HILARIOUS.

CRANK THAT WHEEL.

(PAT)>> CONTINUING ON WITH OUR ATTENTION TO DETAIL, GREEN PAINTED CALIPERS AND A LITTLE BIT ON THE INSIDE HERE WHERE THERE'S A LITTLE SELF CLEARANCING

FROM THE TIRE. BUT ACTUALLY BRAKES ARE IN GOOD SHAPE, JUST NOT GOOD ENOUGH FOR WHAT WE'RE USING THEM FOR.

(RYAN)>> ANOTHER ONE GONE.

NOPE!

(MIKE)>> NUNNYA, IT'S ALMOST LIKE SOMEBODY GROUNDED ON SOMETHING THAT DROVE OVER SOMETHING LIKE A CURB OR SOMETHING LIKE THAT AND THEY ROUNDED OFF THE ACTUAL HEX OF THE BOLTS.

SO I'M GONNA CLEANING IT UP SO THE SOCKET WILL GO OVER IT. [ grinder spinning ] [ impact wrench spinning ]

(PAT)>> WHOA NELLY!

NOT A PROJECT UNTIL YOU'VE GOT BLOODY KNUCKLES.

(RYAN)>> NOW WE'RE GONNA TRY TO PULL THIS ENGINE AND TRANS AS A BOLTED TOGETHER COMBO, AND I THINK WE'VE GOT EVERYTHING DISCONNECTED. SO WE'RE READY TO YANK THIS THING OUT. WHAT'S THE WORST THAT COULD HAPPEN? NOW ONCE YOU START LIFTING THE ENGINE AND FREEING IT FROM THE ENGINE BAY, WELL THAT'S WHEN YOU FIND OUT IF YOU'VE MISSED ANYTHING. THIS ENGINE'S ROCKING!

(PAT)>> THERE YOU GO, SNAP, CRACKLE, POP!

(RYAN)>> NOW BY REMOVING THE CRANK BALANCER AND USING OUR ENGINE LEVELER TO PUT THE ENGINE AND TRANS AT A PRETTY STEEP ANGLE, WE WERE ABLE TO REMOVE IT AS AN ASSEMBLY. AND WE ONLY MISSED ONE WIRE, NOT TOO BAD. CUT IT OUT HERE.

AND THEN JUST REMEMBER, EITHER MARK IT OR, IT'S YOUR STARTER WIRE.

(PAT)>> THERE YOU GO!

(MIKE)>> WONDERFUL GUYS, WONDERFUL!

(RYAN)>> TAKE IT DOWN THE LINE HERE. DON'T STAND UNDERNEATH IT JUST BECAUSE.

AND WITH THE ENGINE AND TRANS OUT OF THE WAY, WE

WERE ABLE TO MOVE TO THE INTERIOR OF THE TRUCK AND PULL THE AFTERMARKET SEATS.

(ROB)>> A LITTLE OVER EXPOSED, GOT A BALD SPOT.

(RYAN)>> AND WITH THE SEATS OUT OF THE WAY, ALL WE'VE GOT TO DO IS REMOVE THE CARPET AND A FEW OTHER INTERIOR BITS AND THIS THING WILL BE A STRIPPED DOWN SHELL READY FOR A ROLL CAGE. IT'S LIKE GLUED TO THE CARPET WITH SOME GUM, RAINBOW SHERBET.

(PAT)>> SUCCESS!

(RYAN)>> YOU THINK A BIG BLOCK'S GONNA FIT?

(PAT)>> I THINK IT'S GONNA FIT IT NICELY, WITH SOME MINOR WORK.

(RYAN)>> REMOVE THE A/C BOX, NEW BOOSTER, MASTER CYLINDER, GET RID OF THE ABS.

(PAT)>> NO, THERE'S PLENTY OF ROOM IN HERE. PEOPLE ARE UNDER THE ASSUMPTION JUST BECAUSE IT SAYS BIG BLOCK THAT IT'S NOT GONNA FIT. THESE THINGS GOT TONS OF ROOM.

(RYAN)>> COOL!

(PAT)>> I'M GONNA EAT MY WORDS PROBABLY.

(RYAN)>> I GET TO DRIVE THIS WHEN YOU'RE DONE RIGHT?

(PAT)>> ABSOLUTELY!

(RYAN)>> GOOD, I WANT SOME SEAT TIME. YOU GUYS HAD TO GET A REGULAR CAB.

(ANNOUNCER)>> AFTER THE BREAK WE'LL GET STARTED ON THE ROLL CAGE. AND LATER WE'RE UPGRADING THE BRAKES, STAY TUNED!

(RYAN)>> HEY GUYS, WELCOME BACK TO TRUCK TECH, WHERE WE'RE IN THE MIDDLE OF TEARING DOWN THIS '97 CHEVY S-10. A PROJECT WE'VE DUBBED THE LIME DIME. NOW WE'RE STRIPPING IT DOWN AND CLEANING IT UP SO WE CAN INSTALL A ROLL CAGE. THAT WAY THE ENGINE POWER GUYS CAN TAKE OVER AND DROP IN A BIG BLOCK WITH NITROUS. THEN THEY CAN SET IT UP FOR A LITTLE BIT OF STREET/STRIP ACTION. NOW FOR A CAGE KIT LET'S CHECK OUT WHAT WE'VE GOT. ALL THIS TUBE IS FROM S&W RACE CARS. IT'S ONE OF THEIR 10 POINT CAGE KITS FOR '94 TO '04 CHEVY S-10'S. NOW THE TUBING ITSELF IS INCH AND FIVEEIGHTHS DIAMETER WITH A POINT ONETHREEFOUR INCH WALL THICKNESS. NOW IT INCLUDES THE MAIN HOOP, A HALO BAR, DASH BARS THAT GO AROUND THE DASH AND NOT THROUGH IT, DOOR BAR DIAGONALS, MAIN HOOP AND HARNESS BAR SUPPORTS, ALONG WITH A HARNESS BAR AND DASH BAR. AND THESE TWO LONGER TUBES THAT GO FROM THE MAIN HOOP DOWN TO THE REAR FRAME RAILS. WE ALSO PICKED UP ONE OF THEIR OPTIONAL OUT RIGGER

KITS SO WE CAN WELL THE CAGE DIRECTLY TO THE FRAME VIA THESE OUT RIGGERS. NOW MOST OF THE TUBE COMES CUT AND PRENOTCHED. SO THE INSTALLATION SHOULD BE A LITTLE BIT QUICKER THAN A CAGE YOU BEND UP FROM SCRATCH. NOW SOME OF YOU GUYS MAY HAVE NOTICED THE FRAME ON OUR LIME DIME IS FREE OF SOME OF THE RUST AND ROAD GRIME IT SHOWED UP HERE WITH. HERE'S HOW IT HAPPENED. AFTER A QUICK CALL TO BANDIT'S ROD SHOP AND DUSTLESS BLASTING, THE GUYS WERE OUT AT OUR SHOP CLEANING UP OUR S-10 FRAME. NOW IT'S DUSTLESS BLASTING BECAUSE THERE'S JUST ENOUGH WATER IN THE CHEMICAL AND CRUSHED GLASS MIXTURE TO KEEP THE DUST AT BAY WHILE STILL BEING REALLY EFFECTIVE. THE GUYS HAD IT KNOCKED OUT IN ABOUT AN HOUR. NOW AFTER FIGURING OUT WHERE WE WANT THE MAIN HOOP AND APILLAR BARS TO LAND AND PASS THROUGH THE FLOOR. THE FIRST STEP WAS CUTTING FOUR HOLES USING OUR HOLE SAW KIT. ALRIGHT NOW WE'VE GOT A FEW HOLES CUT IN THE FLOOR AND THE MAIN HOOP IS IN POSITION, BUT IT'S NOT WELDED TO ANYTHING YET. KINDA JUST FLOATING IN PLACE. THAT WAY WE CAN GET THE ROOF HALO AND A FEW OTHER PIECES POSITIONED, MOCKED UP, AND TACK WELDED. THEN ONCE WE HAVE EVERYTHING WHERE WE WANT IT, WE CAN DROP THE CAGE ASSEMBLY DOWN THROUGH THE HOLES IN THE FLOOR TO HAVE FULL ACCESS WITH OUR MIG

GUN TO COMPLETELY WELD THE JOINT. NOW TO GET THE ROOF HALO TO FIT, ALL I HAD TO DO WAS NOTCH THE ENDS. I'M USING AN INCH AND A HALF HOLE SAW. HOLE SAWS USUALLY AREN'T PERFECTLY ROUND. AND BY THE TIME YOU CLEAN UP A NOTCH WITH A GRINDER THEY FIT REALLY WELL. YOU GUYS HAD TO GET A REGULAR CAB TRUCK. WITH A LITTLE HELP FROM PAT, WE HELD THE HALO BAR IN POSITION, TACK WELDED IT IN PLACE, SUPPORTED IT UP FRONT, AND TACKED THE APILLAR BARS IN PLACE.

THAT'S ABOUT LEVEL. I WANT TO MAKE SURE IT'S LEVEL BEFORE WE FULLY COMMIT. [ welder crackling ]

COOL, THE REST OF THIS WE CAN WELD IN ONCE IT'S

OUT OF THE VEHICLE, WHICH WILL BE NICE.

NEXT WE ADD THE DASH BAR, WHICH I'VE GOT PUSHED UP AGAINST THE STEERING COLUMN AS TIGHT AS I CAN.

AND UP AGAINST THE DASH WHILE STILL KEEPING IT LEVEL AND OUT OF THE WAY OF PEOPLE'S LEGS. STAY!

WITH THE DOWN BARS PASSING THROUGH THE WINDOW OPENING, THE STOCK GLASS IS GONNA HIT THE TRASH PILE AND THEY'RE PRETTY MUCH COMMITTED TO A PIECE OF POLYCARBONATE FOR A REAR WINDOW. NOW SINCE WE'RE NOT BUILDING THIS TRUCK TO ANY

RULE BOOK OR RULE SETTINGS JUST A STREET/STRIP TRUCK WE'RE GONNA MAKE A FEW CONCESSIONS SO WE CAN USE THINGS LIKE THE WINDOW CRANK, AND CLEAR THE SPEAKER AND THE DOOR PANEL. SO THAT MEANS I'VE GOT TO PUT A FEW BENDS TO THIS OTHERWISE STRAIGHT DOOR BAR. TO THE BENDER! NOW I'M USING A PIECE OF TIG WIRE AS A TEMPLATE TO GET THE CORRECT BEND IN OUR DOOR BAR, AND I'M

USING OUR JD SQUARED MODEL 32 BENDER TO GET THE JOB DONE WITH A PUSH OF A BUTTON. NOW KEEP IN MIND THAT STRAIGHT TUBING IS THE STRONGEST. AND IF THIS WAS A PURE RACE TRUCK WE WOULD HAVE LEFT IT THAT WAY AND JUST GOTTEN RID OF THE DOOR PANEL. BUT LIKE I SAID, THIS IS A STREET/STRIP TRUCK AND BEING ABLE TO USE THE WINDOW AND KEEP THE DOOR PANEL WAS IMPORTANT. PLUS IT'LL MAKE GETTING IN AND OUT OF THE TRUCK A LITTLE BIT LESS OF A HASSLE! NOW THE OTHER SIDE, WE'LL BE IN GOOD SHAPE!

ALRIGHT, WITH ALL THE TUBES IN PLACE, ALL I'VE GOT LEFT TO DO IS ADD A FEW BRACES AND WELD THESE

OUT RIGGERS TO THE FRAME SO THESE TUBES PASSING THROUGH THE FLOOR BOARDS HAVE SOMETHING SOLID TO LEAD ON. THEN I' CAN FINAL WELD ANYTHING. IF YOU GUYS ARE WONDERING ABOUT THESE BARS GOING THROUGH THE REAR WINDOW DOWN TO THE REAR FRAME RAILS AND HOW WE'RE GONNA GET THE BED ON AND OFF. WELL WHEN PADDING LIKE YOU'RE DONE WORKING ON THE TRUCK, WELL THEY WANT TO PUT THE BED BACK ON, JUST MAKE A COUPLE OF CUTS NEAR EITHER END OF THE TUBE, ADD A COUPLE OF TUBE CLAMPS, AND THIS CENTER SECTION WILL BE REMOVABLE, IT'LL BE A PIECE OF CAKE GETTING THE BED ON AND OFF. BUT FOR NOW I'M PRETTY HAPPY WITH THE WAY THIS THING TURNED OUT.

(ANNOUNCER)>> UP NEXT WE'LL INSTALL OUR BIG BLOCK RATED BRAKES, STICK AROUND!

(RYAN)>> HEY GUYS, WELCOME BACK TO THE SHOP.

NOW WITH THE ROLL CAGE ON THE LIME DIME JUST ABOUT COMPLETE, WE WANT TO SHIFT OUR FOCUS. NOW THE GUYS IN ENGINE POWER WANT TO STUFF A NITROUS FED BIG BLOCK UNDER THE HOOD.

SO A BRAKE SYSTEM UPGRADE IS DEFINITELY IN ORDER. NOW THE FACTORY BRAKES ON THESE TRUCKS ARE ADEQUATE

FOR STREET USE, BUT THERE'S BETTER PERFORMING AND LIGHTER KITS OUT THERE. THAT'S WHY WE WENT WITH THIS AEROSPACE COMPONENTS PRO STREET BRAKE KIT. THIS IS A FOUR PISTON CALIPER KIT FOR THE FRONT AND REAR OF OUR TRUCK, AND IT FITS S-10'S, REGALS, MONTE CARLOS, AND GRAND PRIX. IT INCLUDES ALUMINUM LIGHTWEIGHT CALIPERS AND

PADS, TWO PIECE ROTORS WITH ALUMINUM HATS, ALL THE SPINDLE SEALS AND BEARINGS WE NEED TO GET THIS INSTALLED, CALIPER MOUNTING BRACKETS, AND LIGHTWEIGHT ALUMINUM HUBS AND SCREW IN WHEEL STUDS. THE REAR KIT IS MORE OF THE SAME BUT THE AXLE BRACKET IS DESIGNED TO FIT AN AXLE UPGRADE THE GUYS NEXT DOOR HAVE PLANNED. SO TODAY WE'RE GONNA FOCUS ON THE FRONT KIT AND START WITH THESE SCREW IN WHEEL STUDS. A LITTLE BIT OF RED LOCTITE WILL KEEP THESE STUDS WHERE WE PUT THEM. NOW I'M JUST RUNNING THEM IN WITH THE IMPACT GUN AND I'M TIGHTENING THEM WITH THE TORQUE WRENCH, AND TORQUING THEM TO 40 FOOT POUNDS.

PIECES OF SCRAP RUBBER ON THE EDGE OF THE HUB PREVENT DAMAGE FROM THE VICE. NOW THERE'S ABOUT EIGHT BOLTS THAT HOLD THE ROTOR HAT TO THE ROTOR DISC. AND AGAIN, I'M USING SOME THREAD LOCKER AND THIS TIME I'M TORQUING THE BOLTS TO 20 FOOT POUNDS IN

A CRISS CROSS PATTERN. THEN WE CAN SLIDE THE ROTOR ASSEMBLY OVER THE NEW ALUMINUM HUB USING THE HARDWARE PROVIDED IN THE KIT. THEN USE A WRENCH ON THE BOTTOM AND A TORQUE WRENCH ON THE TOP, WE CAN GET THESE BOLTS TORQUED TO THE SPEC OF 30 FOOT POUNDS. AND ON BRAKE HARDWARE LIKE THIS IT'S A GOOD IDEA TO TORQUE THINGS AND NOT JUST RUN THEM IN WITH AN IMPACT GUN. JUST TO DEMONSTRATE THE WEIGHT SAVINGS BY GOING WITH THESE AFTERMARKET PARTS, CHECK OUT THE STOCK CALIPER AND ROTOR WEIGHT. IT'S ABOUT 25 POUNDS COMPARED TO THE JUST OVER 16 POUNDS OF THE AFTERMARKET PARTS.

THAT'S A SUBSTANTIAL SAVINGS FOR JUST ONE CORNER. THEN AFTER REMOVING THE BRAKE DUST SHIELD, WE CAN DRILL OUT TWO OF THE MOUNTING HOLES AND TAP THEM TO ACCEPT THE NEW CALIPER MOUNTING BRACKET. WE USED A FIVESIXTEENTHS DRILL BIT AND A THREEEIGHTHS 16 TAP FROM OUR MATCO TAP AND DYE SET. THEN WE CAN MARK, ROUGHLY, WHERE THE CALIPER MOUNTING BRACKET'S GONNA GO BECAUSE THE STOCK CALIPER MOUNTING BRACKET EARS HAVE TO GO.

SO WE'RE USING A CUTOFF WHEEL TO MAKE IT HAPPEN. YOU CAN USE A HACKSAW BLADE, OR SAWZALL, OR WHATEVER YOU'VE GOT HANDY. AND TO GET RID OF ANY SHARP EDGES YOU GO BACK OVER THINGS WITH A FLAT WHEEL.

THEN AFTER PACKING THE NEW BEARINGS FULL OF GREASE, WE INSTALL THE INNER BEARING, FOLLOWED BY THE SPINDLE SEAL. A LITTLE BIT OF GREASE ON THE LIP OF THIS SEAL PREVENTS IT FROM TEARING WHEN INSTALLING IT OVER THE SPINDLE. WITH THAT DONE WE CAN INSTALL THE OUTER BEARING, FOLLOWED BY THE WASHER, AND THE CASTELLATED NUT. NOW TO SET THE PRELOAD ON THESE ROTORS, JUST TIGHTEN

IT DOWN WHILE SPINNING THE ROTOR BY HAND UNTIL YOU FEEL SOME PRETTY GOOD RESISTANCE. AND IF THE CASTELLATED NUT DOESN'T LINE UP, JUST BACK IT OFF ONE NOTCH UNTIL IT DOES AND INSTALL THE COTTER PIN. THEN INSTALL THE CALIPER MAKING SURE IT'S CENTERED OVER THE ROTOR. THE SHIMS ARE PROVIDED IN THE KIT TO MAKE SURE YOU CAN DO SO. THEN JUST TORQUE THE BOLTS TO 35 POUNDS, YOU'RE DONE.

(RYAN)>> HEY GUYS, WELCOME BACK TO THE SHOP. WELL THE LIME DIME IS OFF TO A GREAT START. WE'VE GOT OUR STREET/STRIP CAGE INSTALLED, THERE'S NO DRIVETRAIN IN BETWEEN THE FRAME RAILS, AND WE'VE GOT SOME LIGHTWEIGHT DRAG RACE APPROPRIATE BRAKES ON THE FRONT OF ENGINE POWER'S STREET/STRIP '97 S-10. NOW PART ONE OF THE BUILD IS JUST ABOUT COMPLETE. YOU GUYS WANT TO CHECK THE REST OF IT, CHECK OUT FUTURE EPISODES OF ENGINE POWER. BUT FOR NOW WE'VE GOT ONE MORE THING TO DO SO WE MAKE THIS TRUCK A LITTLE EASIER TO PUSH OVER TO THEIR SHOP.

HERE ARE THE TIRES AND WHEELS THAT MIKE AND PAT HAVE SPECED OUT FOR THE BUILD. THE WHEELS ARE LIGHTWEIGHT, AFFORDABLE, AND GOOD LOOKING. THEY'RE SUMMIT RACING'S DRAG THRUST STYLE WHEELS. THEY'RE ONE PIECE CAST ALUMINUM AND POLISHED. THE FRONTS ARE 15 BY SEVENS WITH A FOUR INCH BACK SPACE, THE REARS ARE 15 BY 10 WITH A FIVE AND A HALF INCH BACK SPACING. AND THEY OUGHT TO GIVE OUR TRUCK A GOOD, MODERN PRO STREET TYPE LOOK. THE TIRES ARE FROM MICKEY THOMPSON, THE REARS ARE ALL BUSINESS. THESE ARE THEIR DOT APPROVED E/T STREETS. WHILE THEY ARE DOT APPROVED, DON'T EXPECT TO DRIVE ACROSS THE COUNTRY IN A RAIN STORM ON THIS TIRE. IT'S DEFINITELY MORE OF A DRAG RACE CENTRIC TIRE, AND IT REQUIRES LITTLE TO NO BURNOUT FOR MAXIMUM TRACTION. THESE ARE 28 BY 11.50. THE FRONT TIRES ARE MICKEY THOMPSON SPORTSMANS. THESE ARE 26 BY SEVENFIFTIES. THE AFTERMARKET 20 INCH TIRE AND WHEEL COMBO THAT WAS ON THE TRUCK WHEN WE PICKED IT UP WEIGHED IN AT ABOUT 58 POUNDS. NOT THE HEAVIEST THING IN THE WORLD BUT THERE'S DEFINITELY LIGHTER OPTIONS OUT THERE. LIKE THIS TIRE AND WHEEL COMBO, WHICH SHAVES 20 POUNDS OFF THE TOTAL NUMBER.

AND YOU GUYS KNOW, WHEN IT COMES TO UNSPRUNG WEIGHT AND ROTATIONAL MASS, LESS IS BETTER, ESPECIALLY IN A DRAG RACE APPLICATION. ALRIGHT, OUR LITTLE GREEN S-10 IS OFF TO A GREAT START AND NOW IT'S READY FOR A BIG BLOCK,

TRANSMISSION, AND REAR AXLE UP TO THE TASK. BUT THE GUYS IN ENGINE POWER ARE GONNA TAKE THIS BUILD OVER. SO IF YOU WANT TO FOLLOW IT, CHECK THEM OUT.

(KEVIN)>> IF YOU'VE GOT A 1984 TO 2001 JEEP CHEROKEE AND YOU WANT TO MAKE IT LOOK AND PERFORM BETTER OFF ROAD, CHECK OUT THIS BRAND NEW BUMPER FROM

RUSTY'S OFF ROAD PRODUCTS. THIS BUMPER IS DESIGNED TO MAXIMIZE GROUND CLEARANCE AND APPROACH ANGLES.

IT USES A DOUBLE SHEAR AND SLEEVE RECOVERY POINT. IT HAS A FRONT MOUNTED WINCH THAT DOES NOT INTERFERE OR RESTRICT AIR FLOW IN FRONT OF YOUR RADIATOR. IT'S CONSTRUCTED OUT OF THREESIXTEENTHS AND

QUARTER INCH STEEL, AND IS POWDER COATED FOR A GREAT LOOKING AND DURABLE FINISH. AND LIKE ALL RUSTY'S PRODUCTS, THIS BUMPER IS TRAIL TESTED AND MADE RIGHT HERE IN THE USA. CHECK OUT RUSTY'S OFF ROAD DOT COM TO FIX YOUR JEEP UP. NOW IF YOU'RE LOOKING FOR REGULAR MAINTENANCE PARTS, THINGS LIKE MAYBE A WATER PUMP, JUST TO KEEP YOUR VEHICLE RUNNING LONGER AND BETTER, AUTOZONE'S LINE OF DURALAST PRODUCTS ARE FOR YOU. THIS WATER PUMP IS FOR A LATE MODEL DODGE AND COMES READY TO INSTALL WITH FITTINGS, ORINGS, AND GASKETS, ALL OF IT IN THE BOX READY FOR YOU TO PUT ON SO YOU DON'T WASTE ANY TIME. AND BY THE WAY, IF YOU ARE REPLACING A WATER PUMP, IT'S ALWAYS A GOOD IDEA TO GO AHEAD AND REPLACE THE THERMOSTAT AT THE SAME TIME. IT'S JUST GOOD PRACTICE. SO HEAD ON DOWN TO YOUR LOCAL AUTOZONE RETAIL

OUTLET AND THEY'LL EVEN LOAN YOU THE TOOLS TO DO THE WORK. IF YOU'RE LOOKING FOR A PROGRAMMER OR A TUNER FOR YOUR'13 OR '14 DODGE PICK UP, WELL BULLY DOG

HAS GOT YOU COVERED. THE BULLY DOG GAUGE TUNER HAS WHAT YOU'VE COME TO EXPECT FROM BULLY DOG.

THE DRIVING COACH FOR INCREASED FUEL ECONOMY, REAL TIME DATA READ OUTS, GAUGE DISPLAYS THAT ARE ACCURATE BASED OFF YOUR ENGINE AND TRANSMISSION SENSORS, NOT YOUR AMBIGUOUS GAUGES. EVEN FUN STUFF LIKE THE STAGING LIGHTS TO SIMULATE

A DRAG STRIP OR A DRAG RACE APPLICATION.

BUT WHAT'S REALLY INTERESTING IS THAT NOW ALONG WITH THE PRELOADED TUNES, NOW YOU CAN TAKE YOUR BULLY DOG DEVICE AND YOUR VEHICLE TO A LOCAL CUSTOM TUNING SHOP. AND BASED ON THE IMPROVEMENTS AND UPGRADES THAT YOU'VE MADE TO YOUR VEHICLE, HAVE A CUSTOM TUNE LOADED IN. SO WHETHER YOU'VE GOT A '13 OR '14 DODGE, OR ANY OTHER VEHICLE THAT BULLY DOG SUPPORTS, CHECK OUT BULLY DOG DOT COM OR GO TO YOUR LOCAL SALES OUTLET. THANKS FOR WATCHING TRUCK TECH, WE'LL SEE YOU GUYS SOON.